Samut Prakan City

 

Samut Prakan City FC is a professional football club with an interesting story to its formation in 2018. The origins of Pattaya United FC, who were based in the Nong Prue suburbs of the Gulf seaside town, can be traced back to 1989.

However, owner Tanet Phanichewa decided to disband the club, but keep their license and move them to the south of Bangkok as Samut Prakan City FC. United’s history along with my visit can be read about here.

The club moved into Samut Prakarn SAT Stadium along with Samut Prakan FC. The arena had previously staged top-flight football as home to Osotspa FC who changed their title to Super Power Samut Prakan FC in their second season in residence before morphing into Jumpasri United FC and heading off to Mahasarakham.

The vacancy was obviously noticed by Mr Phanichewa prior to him bringing in new head coach Surapong Kongthep. Investment was made in the team, and City ended the 2019 season in sixth place with Ibson Melo topping the scoring charts.

A Japanese-Thai connection was introduced to the club as new coach Tetsuya Murayama remodelled the squad. His tenure lasted just a few months before being replaced by Masatada Ishii as ‘Sea Fang’ ended again in sixth in 2020-21.

Barros Tardeli had led the scoring while on a one season loan from BG Pathum United. The 2021-22 campaign was a far different affair. Crowds dwindled partly to the COVID-19 pandemic and after early enthusiasm waned.

Yasushi Yoshida was appointed as head coach in December 2021 and despite the goals of Chayawat Srinawong and a late upturn in form, City were relegated on the final day of the season. Wholesale changes were announced at the club in the summer of 2022. 

The owners sold City, who would become a feeder club to Chonburi FC, as many of that club's players were sent on a seasons’ loan. Sharks former assistant coach Jukkapant Punpee was appointed in charge of team affairs at Samut Prakhan.

He was replaced by Kritsakorn Kerdpol and then Tana Chanabut as a dip in form saw City in a battle against relegation. The 2023-24 campaign saw a new owner, Samrit Bunditkitsada, purchase the club. He certainly made an impression, not being slow to court publicity.

Vantawut Whangprasert was appointed as head coach, lasting five months before being replaced by Wanderley Junior. His spell didn’t last until the end of the season, with Vantuwut returning to the dugout as City finished fifteenth with Fernando Viana top scoring.

However, that only tells half the story. Players went unpaid for long periods leading to a clear-out before the 2024-25 season. The club was locked out of Samut Prakan Stadium over non-payment of rent, meaning that they became tenants of Customs United in Lad Krabang.

Samut Prakan City FC will play in Thai League 2 in the 2022-23 season.

My visits

Samut Prakan City 1 Police Tero 1 (Saturday 22nd January 2022) Thai League 1 (att: 486) 

Based in Min Buri directly north of Samut Prakhan, for a couple of months, I decided that with my newfound knowledge of local transport that it was time to venture a little bit further. SAT Stadium previously looked a bit awkward to get to.

A Saturday teatime kick-off was ideal as was the fixture. It gave me a chance to catch up again with Tero and a few of their fans who are friends with a couple of mine, Sean and Tracey Newby.

 

Tickets had to be bought online in advance, but that proved no problem. I plumped for the away zone for 200 THB. Buses and their timetable can be unreliable at best in Bangkok, so I gave myself plenty of wriggle room.

In my favour was a previous trip to FC Bangsaotong, not too far west of this venue. Minburi to Bangkapi is always a piece of cake. The 145 from there can be a bit sketchy, but there were no issues on this occasion. 

Indeed, it was to be my lucky day as the 133 soon pulled up at my stop at Seacon Square. From there I was taken adjacent to the stadium. A Tero fan getting onboard during the ride confirmed all was good.

It was only around 4.30pm, an hour before the scheduled kick-off time. I immediately took a liking to the outside of SAT Stadium while standing on Thepharak Road behind the main stand. I was taken back to the 1980’s in an instant.

It reminded me of the hemmed in streetscene surrounding many inner-city lower division and non-league grounds of that era. The TV crew vans added to the congestion along with pop up stalls vending food and drink. All that was missing was the smell of burgers and Bovril.

Getting stuck into the beers, along with a complimentary nip or two of whisky from the friendly away hardcore fans, a little too easily, I decided to introduce myself to a group of ex-pat away fans I’d seen at Tero’s home game the week before. 

They were an interesting group. Extremely boisterous, including a couple of Hearts fans who’d seemingly fallen out of a time tunnel from the Wheatfield Stand in the late 70s. They were not shy to offer out their thoughts or insults.

A poor Thai couple came walking down the road wearing Port FC shirts. I quickly worked out that this wasn’t the fellas' most favourite club. The kick-off was put back thirty minutes, which added to the session.

We stumbled in as the teams lined up for the King’s Anthem. I was quite impressed with the inside of the venue too. We were down the side towards the corner flag, with a covered seated section further up and then more open accommodation.

The more vocal City fans were based over in the covered stand which ran the full length of the far side. To negate poor views caused by the running track, semi-permanent open stands had been erected square to the goal lines. 

Evandro Paulista had the first effort of the game for Tero, with his low shot being safely gathered by keeper Patiwat Khammai. A direct curling free kick at the other end struck the top of the frame of Sinthaweechai Hathairattanakool’s goal.

Paulista gave his side the lead when he rose like a salmon at the back post to head a home a delicious bending cross from Ekkachai Sumrei on seventeen minutes as he climbed above his marker to put the ball in off the post.

 

Hathairattanakool looked confident in dealing with a couple of threats, but he was caught out lingering with the ball at his feet. Chatri Rattanawong dispossed him but could not slot the ball into the vacant goal from a wide angle.

Daisuke Sakai then stung the palms of the visiting stopper, who nearly palmed the ball over his own line. A wonderful little reverse pass put in City’s Kevin Ingreso. The shot from the BG Pathum United loanee flew across the face of goal.

 

At the interval we popped back out to the stall and then managed to circumnavigate the stadium booze rules by adding a coke top to disguise the Leos to our pints with permission from the stewards. I guess this camouflage was in case the TV cameras panned round!

Into the second half a combination of ricochets and brave defending somehow denied Ingreso from restoring parity. The hosts’ task was made harder just before the hour mark when Chaiyawat Buran picked up a silly yellow card and was dismissed. 

Chayawat Srinawong missed a guilt edged chance to level things up when fed by a perfect cross from Settawut Wongsai along the carpet, but the substitute scuffed his effort wide with the goal at his mercy.

Seven minutes from time Samut Prakan got the equaliser that their performance probably merited. A fine cross curling away from the keeper by Suphanan Bureerat allowed Srinawong to make amends as he headed home. 

Tero’s fine away support continued to get behind their side, but they must have feared the worst as pressure continued to mount. Hathairattanakool got a poor punch on a cross, the ball was fired back in where an intended goalward deflection from Aris Zarifovic was gratefully pounced on by the custodian.

Referee Sahapop Sriboonlue blew for full time after five minutes additional time. 1-1 was a fair result. My alcohol content decreed a taxi a good idea. I had an invite to a party at my local bar. A messy evening ensued.

Samut Prakan City 0 Customs United 3 (Sunday 11^th September 2022) Thai League 2 (att: 232) 

There had been much upheaval at Samut Prakan City FC following their relegation to the second tier, with Chonburi FC taking up ownership and sending several of their players on loan. I was keen to see how it affected things.

Especially as I had been to see local rivals Customs the week before and had left very impressed by their own overhaul during the close season. And best of all, I had sussed out a cheap and easy way to reach the stadium. 

Shaking off a bit of a hangover I pressed myself into action. The incessant rain had stopped, it was a lovely afternoon as I headed to the van station at the top end of Minburi Market, from where we were away on a full bus within minutes.

I messaged my Aussie pal Vaughan McClear to tell him my plans and he got straight back to say he would meet me at the ground. The van sped without any traffic issues to Market Village Suvarnabhumi in Bang Na.

A return trip from Chonburi after an international had opened this route to me a few months earlier and it only cost 30 baht. From there I crossed the bridge over the busy Bang Na-Chonburi expressway to have a quick browse around the interesting Kingkaew Market.

Before long the 132 bus arrived and took me the rest of the way for a further 20 baht. So 50 baht all in when a taxi back last time cost me over 400 baht. I arrived with over an hour and a half before the kick off time but this was all part of my plan. 

The area around the stadium had intrigued me on my earlier visits, so I was keen to explore, especially some of the establishments shown on Google Maps were no longer in business following the Covid pandemic.

Bang Phli Market just south of the arena was bustling, mainly dealing in fresh foods. The streets of the area, along with adjoining alleys, were my perfect way of seeing what I call real Thailand. Communities getting on with their business and chatting away.

The smiles and hellos I received gladdening the heart as I meandered just generally filling in time, passing a couple of snooker halls, numerous coffee, and smoothie shops, and lots of general stores who somehow keep going, which is always a mystery to me as to how they manage.

But manage they do, as Thais are a resilient bunch. I had been a laid down with a 24 hour bug a few days earlier, so I was keeping street food to a minimum. I went for the rather safe but dull option of toasties from 7/11. Incredible to think I virtually lived on such food before my eyes and mind were opened. 

Vaughan arrived and parked up as I finished a beer as I explained to him the story behind the clubs and current form etc. The hosts, who my brother thought David Bowie had written a song about, cam into the game winless, whereas United were unbeated.

Tickets were 80 baht on the Popular Side among the noisy City fans. We grabbed a beer and took up a pew on the back row. While low in numbers the fans made an absolute din with leaders on megaphones accompanied by drums. It was so loud that it was hard to strike up a conversation. 

City came close to taking the lead in the sixth minute when a low shot from Warakorn Thongbai was fumbled by keeper Sumethee Khokpho, with Passakorn Sripudpong somehow managing to spoon the follow up over the bar.

At the other end Japanese midfielder Daisuke Sakai saw his effort easily saved by Thatpicha Auksornsri. Yotsakorn Burapha saw a low left footed effort go narrowly wide for the hosts before another effort from outside the box just missed at the other side of the goal. 

City were in the ascendency but were missing a finisher. I later learned that their main forward was out injured. His presence could have been a game changer, but we will never know. Customs classy David Cuerva stung the hands of Auksornsri as half time approached.

At the break Vaughan and I replenished our cups, and I had a chat with some pleasant expat City fans who seemed a cheerful bunch. We moved a bit further along after the restart, so we were able to have a proper chat. 

Customs looked a different side after the break. They saw a shot fumbled wide by Auksornsri before taking the lead on forty-nine minutes. A corner from Sakai was nodded home at the near post by top scorer Phodchara Chainarong, one of five United players on loan from Port FC. Only his marker Phanthamit Praphanth can explain what he thought he was doing.

Cuerva had a low bending shot pushed around the post before it became 0-2 on sixty-five minutes. A cross at the second attempt from Chainarong was cleverly turned in at the near post by fellow Port loanee Sittha Boonlha. 

A low effort from Rachata Moraksa was powerful enough but was straight at keeper Khokpho. With six minutes remaining United expended their lead in somewhat fortuitous circumstances when a shot from Sakai took a wicked deflection off the head of Nattapong Phephat to leave goalie Auksornsri helpless.

Burapha saw a shot well blocked in the final action of the game. A 0-3 reversal was harsh on City, but they missed their chances and were made to pay. United portrayed the qualities of a good team when winning convincingly when playing averagely.

Vaughan kindly dropped me back to Market Village where I caught the van back to Minburi with minutes to spare. The driver had been correct on the way down when telling me I would be OK at 9pm! I spent the remainder of an enjoyable day watching a great England Test match performance. A really good Sunday all round.

Samut Prakan City 1 Rajpracha 0 (Friday 11th November 2022) Thai League 2 (att: 129)

My friend Gary was down from Buriram for a football weekend before meeting up with Ryd, a mutual friend from Scarborough at Suvarnabhumi Airport on the Sunday morning. This was a natural choice of fixture as he had never visited Samut Prakan Stadium. 

Neither had Steve, another friend of us both, so he decided to jump onboard once the pair of us had been for a quick look round Minburi Market. My Google map directions were not the best and led to us taking a long route before we eventually got on the main road which heads towards Chonburi.

We still had plenty of time before kickoff, and it was good to meet up with loyal City fan and Twitter friend Phil Williams and his wife Tun as we grabbed a beer before going into the stands. It was only a couple of weeks since my previous visit as the stadium hosted FC Bangsaotong inthe Thai FA Cup.

There had been more in attendance to see a non-league team, which must have worried those in charge of Samut Prakan City. That said, those in attendance really got behind their side who put in a decent performance in response.

Supawat Yokakul in goal for the hosts was first into the action having to tip over an overhit cross from under his own bar. A fine break started by Rachata Moraksa saw Nititorn Sripraman being put in. His effort was saved by Pathomtat Sudprasert with the follow up by Sho Shimoji hitting his own player on the deck and bouncing over the bar. 

Nigerian midfielder Evans Aneni was a quality act in midfield for the hosts in what was a most watchable encounter with the red sky in the distance providing a stunning backdrop. The visitors somehow spurned the opportunity to take the lead three minutes before the interval.

A deep cross was laid back by Pinyo Inpinit to Ronnachai Rangsiyo in the middle of the goal just two yards out. He managed to hit the feet of keeper Yokakul. At the break Phil thought that the ball had crossed the line. Either way, it was a shocking effort.

 

The goalie didn’t reappear for the second half, and surprisingly nor did Aneni. Five minutes after the restart a lovely slide rule pass from Praphanth put in Shimoji who dinked his effort past the oncoming Sudprasert but past the post.

Atthawit Sukchuai for Rajpracha brought out the best of sub keeper Ratchaphol Namthong. At the other end Yotsakorn Burapha controlled a shot and smashed his effort aginst the crossbar with the goalkeeper rooted to his line. 

The winner arrived ten minutes from time, when Kriangkrai Pimrat who fed fellow substitute Phanthamit Praphanth who banged his left footed shot away into the bottom corner of the net from the edge of the box.

Supawit Romphopak had a chance to level things up but he shot tamely straight at Namthong as City hung on to probably deserve all three points. We all enjoyed the game, the atmosphere and venue. 

The way back to Minburi was made interesting by poor directional skills, which saw us get jammed by a khlong bridge next to an interesting bar. The girls working there certainly seemed bewildered. We eventually returned for Gary and I, to have beers with my girlfriend Taew at her Minburi bar.

Samut Prakan City 2 Chiangmai United 1 (Saturday 2^nd September 2023) Thai League 2 (att: 494) 

Well, I thought I’d seen some stuff over the years, but as I often say in Thailand: never presume. The hosts probably overall deserved the victory gained through a fine early strike from Sangjin Lee and then a header from Fernando Viana. The visitors struck back through Marlon Silva seven minutes after the restart, but that was only half of the story.

The atmosphere had been great despite a small gate, with the locals knowing how to make a din. The game wasn’t the worst either with the home side near the wrong end of the table up against the away team who were near the playoff zone and looked extremely useful when I saw them win away on the opening day of the season.

 

City had missed a guilt edge chance at 2-0 to finish off the game, but on the hour mark I had Chiang Mai down for at least a draw. Indeed, I was doing “live” reports back to my mate to edit for our Thai Football Podcast which is out on Wednesday, and I was about to offer my predictions when all hell broke loose.

Prakan scored with a well taken lob, but the CMU players were most unimpressed, haranguing the linesman, with referee Satchukorn Saenchu heading over. The officials ushered the players away and then had a discussion of a few minutes. VAR is not used in the second tier of Thai football, but between them they decided to chalk off the goal. 

Cue, the management of SPC completely losing the plot with the near side linesman and fourth official before they ordered their players off the pitch and refused to continue. It was a disgrace, embarrassing, and shambolic. I’ve no idea how it was resolved but after a lengthy delay the game resumed.

The final half hour was not good to watch. It turned into a contest of who could con the weak officials the most. My mood wasn’t the best after the incident anyway, so the theatrics didn’t help. CMU had a goal disallowed, for pushing from a set piece, before the whistle eventually went to signal happy celebrations among the home players and fans. It left a bitter taste in my mouth.

It was a shame. City have been taken over by new owners who have given the stadium a facelift and there was a positive vibe about the place. However, they had an incident with officials the previous week, and their opening day win at Pattaya was marred with off field hassle. 

Then the previous week to my visit, the coaches had been embroiled in arguments with the match officials in the away game at Nakhonsi United. The Chaingmai game made it three times in four weeks, and they did seem to be attracting bother.

My Video Roving Report for A Thai Football Podcast

My appearance was opportune for the podcast I was co-hosting as I was originally planning to go to Rayong v Nakhonsi but a friend's plan changed so my wife and I returned from Bangsaray so I could still get to a match.

My journey to Bang Pli was via Bangkapi and then a ride on the new Yellow Line Monorail before disembarking past Seacon Square and catching the 133 bus. I returned by taxi to the village retail park where a minivan and then taxi took me home.

An eventful evening!

Customs United

 

Customs United FC is a professional football club in Thailand, who are based at Lad Krabang 54 Stadium in the suburb of Lad Kra Bang in Bangkok. 

The club started off life as Customs Department FC in 1954. Their greatest achievement came after the restructuring of the game in Thailand when they won promotion to the Premier League in 2007 by lifting the Division 1 League title.

Unfortunately, their stay was a short one and the side was relegated after just one season. In 2010 the Customs Department changed their name to Suvarnabhumi Customs FC and moved to their new home at Lad Krabang after previously playing at Kaseem Bundit University.

At the start of the 2011 season the club changed their name to Samut Prakan Customs United F.C. At the end of the season they changed again to Customs United FC, as another club in the same division became known as Samut Prakan United FC. 

The season ended in relegation down to the third-tier Regional League under coach Kritsada Piandit. He was replaced by Jakree Nongnoi as the club gradually improved their on the pitch performances.

A creditable fourth place was achieved in 2013 before United won the Thai Division 2 Bangkok Region title in 2015, to qualify for the Champions League in the quest for promotion. A fourth-place finish in Group B resigned the club to another season in the lowest tier.

The division was renamed the Bangkok & Eastern Region for 2016, with Customs finishing as runners-up and entering the knock-out Champions League. Any hopes of promotion were diminished by Rajpracha after a penalty shootout.

Thai football was restructured for the 2017 season, with an extra tier being added. Customs added MOF to their title and were placed in Thai League 3 Lower Region. The team finished in ninth place with Efe Odobe ending as leading scorer.

Customs won their divisional title in 2018 thanks to the goals of Uroš Stojanov to win promotion to the second tier under head coach Chayaphol Kotchasarn. Australian Kayne Vincent topped the scoring charts in the 2019 campaign as the side consolidated in fifteenth position.

The MOF suffix was dropped from the club title for the 2020-21 season, one in which Brazilian forward Danilo put in the goals. United changed managers in November 2020 as Worrawoot Srimaka was replaced by Santi Songte with the team ending in the thirteenth spot.

Damian Bellón had a spell as head coach prior to the arrival of Warit Boonsripitayaon whose newly retitled Customs Ladkrabang United put a run together in the closing stages of 2021-22 to stave off the fear of relegation.

A link-up with Port FC was formulated in readiness for the 2022-23 season with players moving across town as well as the former coach at the PAT Stadium, Arnon Bundasa. It proved to be a successful, if controversial, season.

Customs reached the promotion play-off final after dispatching Chiang Mai United, but before the game they raised the ire in many followers of the game by announcing that they had not bothered to apply for the Thai League 1 license, meaning opponents Uthai Thani would go up whatever the result.

Port withdrew their support for Customs meaning that they were independent for the 2023-24 campaign. It was a season that ended in relegation under head coach Jaropung Sangpong who was replaced by Prasonchoke Chokemor and then Arnon Bandasak. New investment via  Toko, a Thai engineering company.

The club was placed in Thai 3 East under head coach Keita Goto.

Customs United FC will play in Thai League 3 East in the 2024-25 season.

My visits

Suvarnabhumi Customs 0 Thai Honda 1 (Sunday 25th April 2010) Thailand League Division One (att: approx 650)

I had a prolonged stay in Thailand after I had been visiting in March and April 2010 for cricket tournaments owing to the erupting Icelandic volcano delaying my flight back to the UK. The previous day I had been to the Premier League game between Army and Bangkok United. 

I thoroughly enjoyed the experience and true to my nature I wanted to explore more. Being the curious type, I wanted to see what football was like in Division One; the second tier in the national league system. After studying the website, I chose the match between Suvarnabhumi Customs and Thai Honda on Sunday 25th April 2010.

My good pal and temporary landlord once again, Steve couldn’t be tempted along. At least I had the support of his girlfriend Ea, who wrote down the stadium address in Thai for my taxi driver. After a lovely traditional lunch in the very western Fashion Island Shopping Mall, I eventually found a driver who knew the address and was keen to take me.

We went through the thriving suburb of Lat Kra Bang and found the correct soi (road) off the main drag. I didn’t spot much of note until a newish ground appeared on the left next to a wat (temple). The car park was pretty full, and the crowd looked large. I went to the ticket hut, where I paid 50 baht; just over £1 at the time and received smiles all round upon admission. 

References were made to the new Army FC shirt I was wearing. I quickly worked out that there were no refreshments available inside the ground, but stalls were set up in the car park. I retreated to buy some water.

The ground had two smallish stands on either side of the pitch with nothing behind the goals, save for dressing rooms at one end and huge mesh high fences to keep the ball next to the pitch. 

All the roofs and fencing had a large series of national flags on top, which I found a lovely touch. The nearside stands were packed, one of which was with schoolkids. Both stands made a real racket. I wandered round to the far side which had a river running behind it, like a poor man's Fulham. 

The weather was sweltering as the game kicked off at 4pm. The ground had no floodlights. Many locals hid in the shade. I managed to get a seat on the basic wooden slats at the back slightly in the shade.

Players of both sides put in a great effort. It must have been extremely draining. Customs fielded three exports. Mika Chunuonsee has Thai parents but was born in Bridgend, Wales and was a former Cardiff City junior. 

Two Brazilians, Paulo Roberto and Wallace Da Silva made up the trio. Despite the overseas influence, Honda went ahead before half time. I reckoned the gate was around 6 to 700. Fans made a lot of noise like the Army game the day before, using a variety of instruments. They weren’t the most melodic I’d ever heard, but they were still preferable to the England band.

At halftime, the kids went, and that stand was filled with away fans. Customs huffed and puffed in the second period but couldn’t break through. I went five minutes from the end as I had a rendezvous with a cricketing pal at the airport, whose departure terminal was visible from the ground. 

I wish my taxi driver had taken a more direct route! The game had ended in a single goal victory for Honda in a game I later discovered to be a local derby. Honda’s stadium was also visible from the airport.

I had fully enjoyed the experience. It was now time to discover the third tier and regional football! I headed to meet my Aussie pal Ian 'Reds' Liddell at the airport for a quick goodbye before meeting Ray 'Lemon' Matti and his Dutch pals downtown.

To see a video of my experience at Customs United, click here.

Customs Ladkrabang United 2 Ranong United 0 (Saturday 15th January 2022) Thai League 2 (att: 220) 

Twelve years after my first visit, I was now permanently based in Minburi, the next district north of Lad Krabang. It took a few weeks before the fixtures aligned for my return. Now armed with local knowledge, attending a match would be relatively easy.

I’d quickly sussed that a songthaew went all the way from Min Buri Market to Lad Krabang Road, so this was a no-brainer. I got out before where I really needed to have a look at the night market before heading to Soi 54.

From there it was another twenty-five-minute walk to Customs Stadium for this 7pm kickoff. Most of the route was without footpaths and quite hazardous, which was noted for future reference. My socks and trainers gathered many prickly plants along the way.

The stewards assumed I was an away fan, presumably as a stranger. This was no hassle as I’ll go in anywhere as long as I see a game. The ticket was 100 Baht, which at the time was around £2.20.

Beer was allowed inside too, unlike in the top division. It was bought from one of a couple of portable stalls outside who also dealt in cheap Thai nibbles and snacks. I immediately noticed that the ground was much improved with stands going the full length of both sides of the pitch.

There was also the addition of an electric scoreboard and excellent floodlights. The far side was now open to the elements, which caused a few occasional nervous glances to the skies, with planes landing with not too much frequency across the way an added distraction.

The match ended in a deserved home win, despite Great Andaman Ranong United, listing their full website title, giving it a good go backed by a smattering of supporters who’d made the long journey to the capital.

The hosts' goals both came from Brazilians, with the sometimes erratic and ever-moody frontman Douglas sending his team in 1-0 ahead with a goal in the second minute of first half additional time.

This was added to by the consistent and rather good thirty-year-old Elias, who netted ten minutes after the restart to give the team led by head coach Warit Boonsripitayaon all three points.

At full time I headed across the road to grab a taxi back to Min Buri to my favourite Brothers and Sisters bar which didn’t seem to have official opening and closing times. Yes, I like Teaw’s attitude there!

Customs Ladkrabang United 1 Phrae United 3 (Friday 11th February 2022) Thai League 2 (att: 235)

I’d told my Min Buri neighbour, and long-term pal Steve all about my previous visit. He was free and decided to give it a go as we added the additional songthaew ride down Soi 54 to save ourselves any danger before taking up a seat undercover with the home fans.

The visitors came deservedly from behind to take the points to augment their push towards the playoffs while Customs were left to decry a big chance to pick up a vital point to help their fight against relegation.

A finely crafted goal from Ahamarasul gave Customs the lead midway through the first half. A brace from halt time sub Wellington Smith after the break after fifty-seven and sixty-six minutes turned the tide.

However, Customs had a glorious opportunity to equalise when they were awarded a penalty eleven minutes from time. The lacklustre Douglas, whose second name should be Bader on the two matches I'd seen him, stepped up and saw his kick saved by Carlos Santos.

The forward's performance really did challenge Bonilla of Port as the most inept I'd seen from the foreign signing since moving to Thailand. Sure enough, Phrae wrapped it up with the last kick of stoppage time through another sub and overseas player Rodrigo Maranhao.

We had a decent enough night out., seeing a decent game after some food on the main road. Unfortunately, the bars opened at the same time as the 6pm kick off so we had a dry night. We put that right next time.

Customs Ladkrabang United 2 Navy FC 1 (Sunday 13th March 2022) Thai League 2 (att: 190)

Steve joined me again to travel by songthaews, split at the top of Soi 54 to the ground by an excellent khao man gai, which is chicken and rice with broth, which cost just over a quid. With free water thrown in for good measure 

Customs started the game third from bottom against the visitors from Sattahip who sat well adrift and were certainties to go down. Surely this had a home win written all over it. We were so sure that we included the game in our treble bet.

Of course, football isn’t always certain, and with Navy having nothing to lose, they went for it, cheered on by some enthusiastic support. I thought the bonny young lady along from me was going to explode as she shouted for her team and gave it to the officials.

Her side took the lead four minutes before the break when Gafar Durosimni saw his shot get a slight deflection on the way in. The hosts were not being helped by a sulky showing from Douglas, who once again looked lazy, moody and petulant. He really was dross as an overseas signing.

The equaliser came just after the hour mark when a fine move saw a bullet header from Elias De Oliveira go in at the back post. Having levelled things up, home player Kitting Aupachakham made a stupid challenge to receive his marching orders for a second yellow.

Douglas was pushing all the right buttons in cranking up my pal and me with his attitude. It was made worse as occasionally he’d play a fine pass or win a towering header. He could do it when he could be bothered and here was his team right in the mire and needing him most 

The coach withdrew him with four minutes remaining. The big man had a hissy fit as he wanted to take a direct free kick first. His teammates pushed him away and pointed to the touchline.

His replacement, Nuttawut Chanachan came on, and took the kick, which was a superb effort that went in off the underside of the bar. Douglas was away to join in the celebrations at lightning pace. If only he’d shown that much energy on the pitch.

Customs just about hung on, defending a late indirect free kick in their own box when the ref booked the keeper for time-wasting. We headed off having really enjoyed the last half hour. A craft bar called Rest Up on Lat Krabang Road was our destination.

We had a draught hoppy beer called Annie Haze from Young Master at 5.5%, which was brewed in Hong Kong. This was followed up by sharing bottles and cans of 7% Summer Head Head which we believe was locally brewed, 6% Nocha Merlin chocolate stout from Ballas Point in San Diego. Truly an international occasion.

Finally, we opted for a sour 5% honey beer called Nonthaburi Mead brewed in the northern outskirts which we didn’t massively enjoy. Rest Up is a fine bar with ambient music which shows the football from the UK, but it is not cheap.

It was comparable with London prices, but a treat now and again is welcome. We vowed to be back.

Customs Ladkrabang United 1 Ayutthaya United 0 (Saturday 26th March 2022) Thai League 2 (att: 180)

United were dicing perilously close to relegation when I attended this game, somewhat against my original plans. Several hours I’d headed west on the train to Chachoengsao, with a proper day out being my intended plan.

I’d head to their match against Muang Loei United in the third-level Champions League promotion playoffs, then enjoy a couple of beers on the way back to the station. The warning alarms sounded when I arrived at Fighting Fish Stadium twenty minutes before the advertised kickoff with nobody else around.

The ground had been moved to Chang Park in Chonburi, impossible to reach without a car. Instead, I wandered back, observing a couple of decent-looking bars for future visits as well as the club offices and shop on Em Onithit 1.

Of course, announcing my cock up on social media gave plenty of pals a giggle, of which I’ve no issues whatsoever. I took an earlier train and alighted at Hua Takhe station and grabbed a songthaew on what was a sweltering afternoon.

I was most grateful for a bottle of water and then a beer with lots of ice on arriving at the stadium prior to taking my usual vantage point in the covered section of the home stand. I was to see a game with application, making up for the paucity of quality.

Much to my surprise Douglas put in a proper shift. Maybe it was near contract time, or he was being given a bonus if Customs stayed up. The ever-reliable Elias netted the only goal seven minutes after the break.

By hook and crook, the hosts hung on for a valuable three points. Generally, I didn’t approve of some of the tactics they employed, but this was vital stuff and I’d taken to them in a strange sort of way. Their retaining second-tier football offered me a decent nearby option.

Customs Ladkrabang United 2 Samut Prakan City 1 (Wednesday 20^th July 2022) Friendly (att: c10)

Checking out Facebook this game appeared on my timeline. Just the job with a 4pm kick-off, with the usual means of transport running perfectly. I was slightly concerned on arrival that the normal spectator gate was locked. I went in where the officials entered.

To be honest the game wasn’t much more than a training exercise and was played over three thirty-minute periods. The pitch was marked by cones and portable goals made it shorter in length.

Both teams used at least twenty-two players so everyone got a run. It was of a decent pace and plenty of skill was in evidence. Customs gave a couple of their overseas signings the final period to impress.

One of them, Alessandro Di Stefano added to an earlier United goal from Phanomphon Phuangmalai. A Japanese import grabbed City’s consolation. By the time I eventually got home, I was thoroughly drenched, having been caught up in a storm and flash flood of biblical proportions in Minburi.

Customs United 3 Udonthani 1 (Saturday 3rd September 2022) Thai League 2 (att: 520) 

It was time to see how United performed in competitive action after an unbeaten start in their first three games. Udon on the other hand were without a win. My friend Gary was down with his family, so I headed to his hotel on Ramkhamhaeng Road to meet up.

Saturday teatime traffic was congested on Rom Klao and Lat Krabang Road, with us eventually getting to the ground fifteen minutes before kickoff. The changes off the pitch at Customs Stadium were also in evidence. 

There were more vendors, with one selling trainers for one of the sponsors. The beer stand was being marshalled by two chaps who seemed inexperienced if pleasant. With drinks in hand, we paid our 100 baht and headed to the far end main stand seating.

A minute silence was held before kickoff for referee Titichai Nuanchan who had died in a road accident after officiating in the game between Nongbua Pitchaya and Ratchaburi the previous evening. The hosts took the initiative straight from the kickoff with Port FC loanie Anusak Jaiphet hitting the side netting. 

He followed that up by heading just wide from a corner before the visitors also showed their attacking intent with Greg Houla leading the line well. However, Customs went ahead with sixteen minutes on the clock when Natthawat Thobansong cut inside and fired a beauty into the far top corner.

David Cuerva was having a fine game in the middle of the park for United with big import centre-back Adnan Orahovac showing signs of dominance. Aung Kaung Mann got in for the away side but dragged his shot across the goal.

Kittiwut Bouloy looked tricky from the start, and he created havoc before putting a low shot away to make it 2-0 six minutes before the break. There was still time for Udon to half the deficit before the break, when Houla, then Sang-bum Jo set up Weerawat Jiraphaksiri to fire home from the edge of the box.

Thobansong bent a free kick wide shortly after the restart, with the hosts extending their lead on sixty-six minutes when a ball inside saw the second of five Port loanees, Phodchara Chainarong too quick for his marker as he ran through and slotted home. The difference between him and last season's striker Douglas was glaring.

Daisuke Sakai was the next home player to cut inside for a shot on goal, but he was denied by keeper Jaturong Samakorn. Great play in the corner from sub Pheemphapob Viriyachancha led to him crossing where Sakai somehow headed wide in front of a gaping net.

Udonthani kept going until the end and did not play badly. It's just they were up against what I thought was a very good and exciting outfit. At full time we headed back to Minburi for an evening of jollity in my Brothers & Sisters Bar, my favourite local establishment.

Customs United 0 Bangkok United 1 (Wednesday 16^th November 2022) Thai League Cup Round of 32 (att: 570) 

Back down to Ladkrabang 54 via the usual means including a walk and some further discovery for possible future reference along the main drag. A good crowd split about 50/50 between home and away fans saw a spirited Customs display.

It looked like it might have been a one-sided affair when the visitors went ahead after ten minutes when the excellent Heberty smashed home a nod down from Willen Mota leaving keeper Teerath Nakchamnarn with no chance. 

The lead nearly doubled midway through the first half when a glancing header went narrowly wide. Customs defended resiliently before Heberty stung the palms of Nakchamnarn from the edge of the box and a couple more efforts went over the bar before the first period ended.

Sub, Chayawat Srinawong saw his attempt scrambled off the line by Customs defender Panomporn Puangmalai before referee Torphong Somsing turned away appeals for a penalty at the other end that he could well have given. 

The hosts continued giving their all and pushed for an equalizer but found the Bangkok defence well marshalled. The score was about right, and I managed to grab a taxi all the way home in quick time so I could head over the road for food and drink.

Customs United 2 Muangthong United 2 (Wednesday 26th July 2023) Friendly (att: c120)

A midweek bonus as both teams prepared for the season openers just over a fortnight later. An enjoyable game too, pleasing on the eye in which the hosts came back from 2-0 down against higher division opposition, at least in name.

Muangthong took the lead in the opening minute when a clumsy foul on the edge of the box saw their 24 rifling the resulting free-kick into the top corner of the net. After this Customs controlled the play and created a few half-chances.

A big African chap saw his effort well saved by the MTU keeper before a fellow of similar origins but slender build had one cleared off the line. A player who could have been of Brazilian heritage missed a sitter at the back post, to the chagrin of the Customs animated coach.

No team sheets were available, so identifying either side was difficult, even more so Customs whose players had no numbers on their shirts, while the visitors fielded a young side, who I presume were fringe, some first team, and some academy players.

Customs were going through a turbulent spell. Previously backed by Port FC financially and with loan signings, they are going it alone and no doubt trawling through many trialists, hence the lack of identity.

Who knew where that would leave them this season, with some observers reckoning on a season of struggle. It was hard to say, but on this performance, I thought that they had enough good players, if they retained the right ones, to comfortably stay up. It would be a matter of gelling them.

The second half continued in a similar fashion, with the home side on the ascendency, and the away goalie making a fine near post stop. Then his side broke down the right with some fine interplay. The number 5 dragged a wonderful low ball back well outside the box where the onrushing 10 slammed home hard and low on the hour mark.

The breeze on a beautiful early evening and 5pm kickoff was most welcome, at a venue which I enjoyed visiting, being close to the pitch down either side with raised views. A shame the catering vendors didn’t appear as they lost out.

Six minutes later Customs were back in it, after a corner wasn’t cleared. The ball bobbled about before it was hooked in off the underside of the bar. Seven minutes from the end came the equaliser, as a low free-kick bounced in front of the keeper who fumbled and was put away by a sub who was lively throughout, showing potential.

A nice friendly atmosphere to match the game, with many in attendance being MTU fans, not massively impressed with the goalkeeping error.

Before the match I headed to Lat Krabang near Suvarnabhumi Airport, where my songthaew was struck in traffic which gave me a glimpse of a sign saying café, bar, open. It was called Kota. As I was ahead of schedule it would have been ridiculous to overlook such an invite.

Craft beers are not cheap in Thailand, so large cans for around £4 or 189 Baht is reasonable, though half that price at some 7/11 stores. I enjoyed both the 5% Pale Ale and 4.5% Cashmere Session IPA from Thai brewer Mahanakhon. Cashew nuts, with chillies, onion, and lime are the perfect accompaniment and are highly recommended.

Lat Krabang was extremely vibrant after the game, with bars, music, and lots of stalls and street food. Once my domain, but my good lady had prepared dinner for me back home. Cheap travel, free admission football, beers, and a proper taste of Thailand made for the perfect evening.

Customs United 1 Chiangmai United 3 (Sunday 13^th August 2023) Thai League 2 (att: 428)

A watchable encounter on the opening weekend for the top two tiers in Thailand. I’d been given a tip to watch a player but couldn’t work out how his non-African appearance matched his shirt number, and why so many in our stand were cheering the away team.

The first goal went in for the boys in blue, Customs colours, on eighteen minutes. Then the scoreboard revealed that CMU were in blue, their regular change kit and CU were in red, their second strip. A cock up by the away side’s kit man no doubt.

Anyway, that goal scored by Pattara Soimalai had been coming for a while. Customs were alright but the away team seemed physically stronger in all departments. The score was doubled when the marvelously nicknamed Brazilian, Mosquito made it 2-0 shortly before halftime.

The game was put to bed two minutes after the restart when Ho Ju volleyed through a crowd past motionless keeper Theerawat Pinpradub. Both he and opposing goalie Pirot Eammak would have been better off concentrating on their jobs than looking to get involved in any minor incident, with neither shy to roll around in fake pain. Fortunately, referee Chaikrit Inboonsong was having none of it and had a good game.

Defender Phattaraphon Gangsopa tapped in at the back post following a scramble to offer hope to the home side who later hit the bar and saw one flaring opportunity being blasted over the bar. Thossaporn Chuchin was sent off for the visitors for a second bookable offence and took some ushering away. He was most upset.

An enjoyable time spent in the company of my good mate Steve, with a songthaew taking us all the way to Lat Krabang where craft beers were consumed at the pleasant Kota Restaurant and Bar before a cab to the stadium for the 7pm kickoff where street food snacks and large bottles of Leo were available. They could be, and were, consumed while watching the game.

Post-match we gave a local a ride in our cab as he wanted a train back into the city from the Airport Link station, while we jumped out and had another couple of beers at Rest Up, which served lovely fries. I dread to have seen the state of the chicken that the tender bits we were served came from mind.

Customs United 0 Suphanburi 0 (Saturday 23rd December 2023) Thai League 2 (att: 146)

An entertaining 0-0 in a 6pm kick-off with both sides playing fast exciting football on the deck but failing to hit the target. Both keepers had their palms stung from decent shots while several efforts went narrowly wide or over.

The away fans were unlikely to be buying the ref any Christmas presents judging by the vitriol aimed in his direction at full-time. Suphanburi pushing for a play-off place were turned down a penalty, which I personally thought was the correct decision. 

Customs won at home the previous week but still found themselves in the relegation zone. I think on the evidence of this showing, that they might have had enough to escape. The game in general was a chasm in standards above the T3 stuff I normally watched in Sisaket.

It was a most pleasant afternoon and evening all told. My wife and I took her son and girlfriend plus a couple of young nephews (9 and 11 years old) for a wonderful alfresco lunch overlooking a lake before I took the youngsters with me for their first taste of a live match.

My Roving Report for A Thai Football Podcast

They seemed to enjoy it, particularly the snacks and pop stalls. They got a bus, songthaew, and taxi ride and I delivered them home safely to happy parents. I must admit, it made my day to share it with them. Hopefully, the first of a few adventures.

I enjoyed a couple of beers with my Bangkok based pal Vaughan, as we chewed the fat while watching the game. I was in the capital at our suburban condo before we headed down the gulf the following morning to the seaside at Bangsaray to enjoy Christmas with friends.