Thupatemi Stadium (Bangkok)

 

Thupatemi Stadium otherwise known as the Thai Royal Air Force Stadium, is a multi-purpose arena with a running track that has an official capacity of 20,000. It is mainly used for football and as a training area for athletes.

The stadium was home to Air Force United from 2007 and 2011 and again between 2012 and 2019 when the club was relocated to Uthai Thani.

Previously, another club, Luk Tapfah Pathum Thani FC was taken over by Air Force United in 2012 and played at the stadium from 2013 until 2017 when they were renamed Grakcu Looktabfah and then Grakcu Sai Mai United, moving to their own stadium in Sai Mai.

This left Tupatemi without a host club. This scenario was resolved when Royal Thai Air Force FC, consisting mainly of servicemen entered Thai League 3 for the 2020-21 season.

My visits

Luk Tapfah Pathum Thani 1 Futera Seeker 1 (Wednesday 27th March 2013) Thai Regional League Central West Region (att: c300)

To see my round-up and photos from the above match, click here.

Air Force Central 2 Police United 2 (Saturday 31st October 2015) Thai League Division One (att: 3,389)

Click here for my match account and a full write-up on Air Force United.

Royal Thai Air Force 0 STK Muangnont 1 (Saturday 8th January 2022) Thai League 3 Bangkok Perimeter (att: 265)

Read here about my first match watching the “new” team at Thupatemi Stadium.

Thonburi League Finals Day (Sunday 19^th June 2022) day att: c150

I’d read about the finals day several weeks previously on Facebook and penned it in my phone reminders. I even had a sensible Saturday night in my local bar in readiness. My intention was to take in the last two matches of the four.

Siam FC B 3 Famous FC 1 (Thonburi League Cup 3^rd/4^th Place Play-Off)

I was not interested in the first game, a friendly between Bangkapi and Muangkrung, which kicked off at 9.30am. I didn’t really consider this clash until I made far better time than I’d accounted for.

A Minivan took me from Minburi to the 11th Infantry Regiment BTS Skytrain station. I was delighted to find that travel on the extension of the Green Line was still free as I collected my ticket north above Pahon Yothin Road to Yæk Kor Por Aor.

Part of me considered finding somewhere for breakfast, but I decided to stock up on top of my breadcrumb chicken sandwich at 7/11 and Lam Luk Ka Junction Market a few minutes’ walk from Thupatemi Stadium.

Common sense had kicked in as I took my cool bag, which was essential on such a hot day so I could carry plenty of water. It was good to see a couple of snack and drink stalls open by the stadium car park for later use.

Strangely no gates were open into the spectator area of the stands, so I walked in the main entrance and down the players entrance before finding a way upstairs to the seated area. It was all very nicely relaxed.

It was half-time in the third and fourth League Cup play-off on my arrival. I chose a vantage point where visiting supporters are allocated in league matches, as I’d not been in there previously. Just the covered stand was open to spectators.

Next to me was the Thai Spirit entourage. When the teams re-emerged for their second half, they brought out their belongings to the sub's bench so that the two sides in the next match could use the changing rooms.

Facebook was king once again as I managed to get on the live feed on the Thonburi League page and find out the halftime score. The second string of Siam FC were in the lead. My immediate attention was drawn to the frequency of descending planes heading to Don Muang, which was massively higher than my January visit.

Thupatemi Stadium was also showing signs that it could do with some tender loving care with dirty seats and peeling paintwork. It was even more noticeable without the advertisement boards missing from the Thai Royal Air Force FC match.

The game restarted and it was at as very gentle pace in the extreme heat. Water breaks and the usual delays meant that the match was behind schedule, having supposedly kicked off at 11.30. I think it was shortened to forty minutes each way.

Siam doubled the lead when their 32 was played through. His effort proved too strong for the Famous keeper despite his best efforts. It was 3-0 when Siam’s 21 netted after the referee decided to let go what was a robust challenge on the edge of the box that saw the Famous player felled.

 

A scruffy effort got Famous a goal back which infuriated the Siam coach who appeared to feel that his charges were taking things a little too easy. His side put the smile back on his face when it was 4-1 through 19 with the last kick of the game after the keeper made a real hash of a low centre.

Thaispirit FC 3 Yungthong United 1 Thonburi League Cup Final

The turnaround between games was quick as both teams had warmed up on the track areas behind each goal. Spirit were backed by a good following of friends and families and seemed to be a really decent bunch. 

I particularly wanted to be at this game as I’d seen Spirit in action in a previous game in absurd waterlogged conditions in the Thailand Amateur League and a good friend Chris Felton informed me that his good lady was a close friend of club owner Lek.

Immediately I was struck by the good standard and high intensity as tackles flew in. Both sides had structure about them and were trying to play good football. A drummer tried to rally Spirit support, but fans seemed keener to try and keep cool than sing. 

Yungthong in a striking yellow and red outfit looked the physically stronger of the teams. Their keeper made a fine save from a shot at the angle of the box from Spirit’s 26. United’s 26 had a chance, but the Spirit goalie rushed out narrowing the angle which forced the shot to go wide.

The scoring was opened by one of the best strikes I’d seen in months. The Thaispirit number 21 was getting on for thirty yards out in an inside left position when he let fly with his left foot. The ball continued to curl away from the Yungthong goalie and dipped into the top corner. I actually shouted out “what a goal”. It really was outstanding.

The referee was doing his best to let the game flow but became inconsistent when he did blow his whistle for a foul, and it was often for things far less severe than he had let go. United had a good spell up to halftime, with their 27 having a free kick saved at the second attempt.

At the interval, I rushed out to get another bottle of water and a coke with lots of ice. Thankfully a few entrance gates had been opened as well as the downstairs toilets. I took up my previous position for the second half. 

Yungthong’s number 6 had impressed me throughout playing up front with skill and ingenuity. He was denied by an excellent last-ditch challenge. Spirit responded by winning the ball high up the pitch and creating a lovely little passing move before 8 blazed over.

It was the team in blue who would score next to double their advantage when number 2 saw his shot go through the legs of an outstretched defender and across the goalie into the far bottom corner of the net. 

My thoughts were that United would have really given Spirit a proper game if they had a forward partner alongside their 6. Their opponents were far more team-based in their movement with everyone getting involved.

As it was, they halved their deficit when a low strike from 25 at the edge of the box went just inside the post past the sprawling custodian. For a short time, it looked like Yungthong may even muster an equalizer. 

However, the game was put to bed at 3-1 when a slide rule pass from the excellent 2 was finished off by number 6. The number 2 was then put in by another intelligent pass, but he was denied by a combination of goalkeeper and defender blocking the follow-up.

Yungthong were really stretched by this point. They had nothing to lose and sent men forward but were exposed consequently. Spirits’ 2 was again in the action as he headed wide a cross from 7 in the last chance of what was a really enjoyable spectacle.

Following the trophy ceremonies, the Spirit entourage and several spectators got onto the pitch to have photos taken of their big day. I was genuinely pleased with who appeared to be a really nice set of people and a well-organised football club.

Rose Asia 1 RTC Bangbon United 1 (Asia win 5-3 on penalties) Thonburi Champions League Final

The celebrations further delayed the start of what was billed as the main event of the day. We were looking at a 4pm kick-off rather than the half-hour earlier advertised. I took the opportunity to move to the other side of the stand.

I’d also been taking photos of the planes between the on-field action and fancied a slightly different angle. The crowd had dropped a little but both sides had reasonable followings. I noted that Rose Asia had a red rose on their emblem. Not something to impress this Yorkshireman!

Again, the match started with a high tempo with some naughty niggly challenges going in. There was definitely an edge to it. I described it in my notes as ratty. Rose had some youngsters who were keen to engage with me.

I later noted that it was horrible and disjointed as a spectacle, lacking skill and inventiveness, but certainly not effort. To be honest, that is the best I could make of the first half. I genuinely considered heading home.

Only my stubbornness having travelled a fair distance and the fact that it could only improve kept me back. I was not massively impressed when the second half started similarly. I could see it going to penalties after a 0-0 draw.

In fairness, both defences were doing their jobs well, even if it did sometimes involve underhand methods. The referee was handing out plenty of yellow cards. Good for the leagues’ bank balance but not necessarily for onlookers.

Rose formed an attack which was flagged for offside, which seemed a highly debatable call from the linesman. RTC attacked from the resulting free kick. Their number 9 looked well offside when played through, but the flag remained down.

He finished well with a clever lob over the keeper but then lost marks from me making those silly ear gestures at the opposing set of supporters. The Rose stopper made a fine low save from RTC’s 16 to keep the deficit manageable.

A spell of Rose Asia's play resulted in them restoring parity when 33 scored despite protests from the Bangbon players. The goal inspired the Rose side as 10 blasted an effort over and the fans began to chant their support. 

In what was definitely a “slow burner” the game opened up and became very watchable. The scorer of the RTC goal was put in on goal once again but he dithered and was blocked. Served him right for his earlier antics in my book.

Five additional minutes couldn’t separate the sides, so it was down to penalties to decide the winners. Rose went first and were faultless, as were RTC until their fourth kick hit the underside of the bar and stayed out.

The Rose goalkeeper used plenty of gamesmanship trying to put off the opposing kickers with delaying tactics. He seemed unphased by it all. He stepped up in double quick time to score the fifth and winning spot-kick.

I’d had seen enough and wanted to head back. It had been a long hot day and I was feeling tired. I also need to go back to my favourite bar to see iof my missing keys had been found the previous evening. 

Fortunately, a number 520 bus arrived in quick time, which took me all the way back to Minburi. My keys were found, and I enjoyed a few cold ones with a later meal. A super Sunday indeed.

Thaispirit FC

 

Thaispirit FC is an amateur football club formed in 2014 in the Thai capital of Bangkok who describe themselves in 2022 as a small club with a goal in football. Their primary aim to give junior development through their many aged group sides through to their adult team.

Spirit funded a party to participate in the Gothia Cup in Sweden for international youth sides along with other international tours. Thaispirit open age team competes in the Thailand Amateur and Thonburi Leagues.

The club has a base at Soi Yothin Phattana 3 in the Bang Kapi District of the city with a couple of smaller sized pitches under the chairmanship of Grandma Dawan Nakhirunkanok. The adult side compete in the Thonburi League based at Sampaosan Stadium, a few miles away.

In the 2022 Thailand Amateur League, Spirit finished top of Bangkok Group F, with one of the games can be read about here, before leaving the competition on penalties to Ramkhamheang University in the first knockout round.

The side led by head coach Thanapol Kaewruang found some consolation a few weeks later, when they won the Thonburi League Cup with a fine display against Yungthong United, which can be read about here.

Thaispirit FC will play in the Thonburi League in the 2022-23 season.

My visits

Sampaosan Stadium

Thaispirit FC 5 Muangkrung FC 3 (Sunday 10th July 2022) Thonburi League East Zone (att: c50) 

Id enjoyed watching spirit lift the Thonburi League Cup a few weeks earlier and wanted to see them again. The opening round of the new Thonburi League season was an ideal opportunity, what with the club using a venue not too far from home.

Sunday arrived with me sporting a huge hangover following a friends’ birthday party at my local bar. At least she had enjoyed a happy birthday! Under normal circumstances, I’d have been tempted to walk to the ground, but there wasn’t a chance on this occasion.

 

A taxi dropped me just round the corner as I arrived ten minutes or so before the 4pm kick off. Grabbing some soft drinks and a bag of peanuts, which included herbs and chili powder I took up a seat under the cover in the corner.

Sampaosan had two pitches, with some shelter between them across the far side. Behind where I sat were changing facilities and toilets with the roof forming a overhand shelter for its seats. At right angles was an open fronted street food establishment where some fans chose to sit.

There was no accommodation for spectators down the roadside of the ground, and not really anything dedicated behind the goals. However, flat areas atop the natural banking proved a good vantage point that some took advantage of in cars and their own fold up seats.

Bangkapi FC were over on the second pitch as they took apart DMF FC in a 3pm kick-off. Meanwhile, the two young sides representing Thaispirit and Muangkrung were warming up ready for their clash on the wider expansive playing surface. 

As the game got underway the maintenance team of the venue decided that using an electric drill and hammer to put up shelves on the wall behind me was a good idea. My head didn’t think so. Fortunately, it was a relatively quick job.

Spirit carried on where they’d left off from when I’d seen them last with a high pressure, fast passing game that was pleasing on the eye. They came close twice in quick succession to taking the lead. 

It therefore came as a bit of a shock when the away side in a snazzy yellow and black kit took the lead midway through the half. A wide free kick looked harmless enough, but it snuck past the keeper and in at the far post.

To try to drum up atmosphere, Thaispirit had a couple of large flags while crowd noises and chants were played down speakers. Whether it assisted them, I don’t know, but they were soon level.

 

An indirect free kick was tapped to one side, where number 21 hammered it into the top corner from around twenty-five yards. Number 7 for the ‘hosts’ squandered a great chance to put his team ahead, but he missed an open goal after the Muangkrung goalie had parried a low free kick.

The same player was then denied by the stopper when put in by teammate 21. It was the scorer of the equalizer who sent his team in at half time in front when he collected a short corner and fired in a screamer into the roof of the net to make it 2-1. 

It had been an excellent first half and the quality and entertainment was in abundance again after the interval. A cross from Spirits’ 8 was net by the man wearing 6, but the visiting custodian once again pulled off a good save.

Muangkrung were more than playing their part in the affair as they restored parity. Their 17 was played through before he rounded the goalie to score. This seemed to ignite the Spirit players further as they quickly restored their lead.

Skipper and man-of-the-match 21 fed in substitute 26 who scored with a low shot across the keeper into the far corner. The lead was extended to 4-2 through an own goal when the yellow sides’ 45 tried to clear while under pressure on the six-yard line.

There had been some fine individual goals but the effort that made it 5-2 oozed quality and exemplified Spirits’ all-round team play. 26 got to the byline and dragged back a beautiful low cross which was converted at the back post by 10. 

Muangkrung’s players continued to battle as great skill from their number 18 nearly created a goal. Spirit responded with number 28 being denied by the feet of the Krung custodian who had put in a fine performance.

The away side got a goal back that their performance merited as their 23 capitalized on a defensive error to sidestep the home goalkeeper and score. It was nearly 5-4 when 30 hit the bar with free kick.

I thoroughly enjoyed the match and even felt a little bit more like returning to the land of the living by the end. I took a walk to Thanon Khubon where I just missed the 197 bus to Minburi. A taxi soon had me back for a few drinks and lovely meal back in my favourite bolthole.

Thaispirit 0 FC Bangsaotong 2 (Sunday 14^th August 2022) Thonburi League East Zone (att: c60)

My choices were varied for the afternoon. I could try and fit in a game or head straight to Khlong Toei where I was going to the 7pm kick off between Port FC and Lamphun Warriors. Then this Thonburi League game with a 3pm start appeared on Facebook.

It worked perfectly as I was to be joined by my Australian cricket friend Vaughan McClear who had been asking to be kept in touch about when I was going to a local game. I took the 26 bus along Ram Inthra and walked up Soi Kubon to the match.

My mate arrived with his son Pat in time for us to grab a beer and wander round to the covered tents near the players. As I was becoming a regular face with the Bagsaotong fraternity we were fine to get seats and sit near the subs.

 

I knew that we would get a good game of football played properly by two decent sides and fortunately I was proved correct. FCB played too much football in the first half and over-elaborated when shooting was the best option around the box.

Head coach Jamie Clarke certainly was of the same opinion doing his rocker as the second chance was spurned. At the other end the visiting defence marshalled by Adam Mather and Lee Hall were doing a fine job keeping the enthusiastic Spirit forwards at bay. 

Spirits keeper then made an amazing fingertip save redirecting the ball onto the bar when a Qons forward did get his shot away. The hosts had occasional forays as the first half continued up until the interval.

Having a wander round to the facilities at the break I received some smiles and nice words from one of the home coaches warming up the subs on spotting my Port shirt. A perfect example of why I loved my life in Thailand.

FCB took the lead somewhat fortuitously not long into the second half. Kuatrakul Kwankua broke through but delayed his shot. The referee however, decided that he had been fouled. To compel the misery for Spirit the offender was shown a second yellow card and was dismissed.

Kwankua picked himself up to score from the spot. The home keeper was helpless but he then performed further heroics to push over a vicious shot that drew widespread applause from both benches and sets of fans.

 

We were walking round to have another beer near the covered area in the far corner when the lead was doubled. A low shot took a bit of a bobble to escape the otherwise faultless goalie who was angry with his efforts.

At full time Vaughan kindly drove me back through Bangkok and dropped my ten minutes from PAT Stadium with time for me to enjoy food and drink. A great start to the football day. If only my second match was as entertaining!

 

Mawin Stadium (Bangkok)

 

Mawin or Marwin Stadium, as it’s sometimes called, is two back-to-back training ground pitches of Thai top-tier football club Muang Thong United. The venue is around a mile north of their Thunderdome arena in Muang Thong Thani, north Bangkok.

The two pitches are divided by a long covered raised grandstand with several steps looking down onto the pitches. Changing rooms stand behind the far goal on the pitch farthest away from Watthana-Pakkret 39 Road.

Both pitches are equipped with modern drainage and modern floodlights, with the wide expanses of Mali Market offering ample car parking.

My visit

Thaispirit 0 Aidin Sports 0 (Friday 6^th May 2022) Thailand Amateur League Bangkok Group F (att: c180)

The Thailand Amateur League offered plenty of options for some spectating, with some at venues I’d never previously been to. A Friday afternoon fixture was more than welcome and proved no problem to me on a retirement visa.

Not being familiar with Mawin Stadium when the fixtures came out, I asked the administrator of the Bangkok Premier League to kindly help me out, with Thaispirits’ Facebook page also offering further details as the game neared.

Heading out from Minburi on a pleasant early afternoon, I took a minivan towards Pak Kret, getting out on Chaeng Wattana where I knew the 66 bus headed to the bus depot near Thunderdome Stadium.

I learned a lesson as the bus continued all the way under the flyover at Pak Kret and took a U-turn back to Khlong Kluea Road before heading north. I could have saved time by crossing the footbridge and joining an earlier bus over the other side.

Like many outings, I was gathering information for future adventures. Alighting at Impact Arena, I set off past United’s stadium and headed up Watthana-Pakkret 39 Road, noticing darkening skies over the Chao Phraya River.

It was a bit further than I anticipated, reaching a place in the stand just as the teams lined up for the kickoff. Spirit had a very healthy support, with several of the youth team players in tow. Singhanon FC and DX FC were on the pitch on the other side of the stand in the same group of the competition. 

Fans were treated to a very even first half as both sides played some nice football. As the interval approached, the storm clouds and the sound of thunder and lightning were building. The rain started falling heavily. The pitch quickly became what I would term waterlogged.

They somehow managed to reach half-time, when the peak of the storm was overhead. The rain breached the roofing and winds blew it through the stands. I managed to get downstairs to the dimly lit corridor to get some protection.

I’d already called it a day as far as seeing the rest of the match. The problem was how would I get home without a proper soaking? No taxis were available on the Apps, and regardless of that, it was impossible to get to the car park from the stand because of flooding.

It was the best part of forty-five minutes, but groundstaff unblocked drains and water slower started to drain away. Remarkably both games were to be completed. I couldn’t quite believe what I witnessed.

Credit had to go to both teams and referee, Niruch Panjontuk for getting on with things. Inevitably enough, the sodden pitch meant passing was very difficult. Both teams struggled to put any fluent moves together through no fault of their own.

I cannot recall either keeper, Sutaporn Kongwut for Spirit, or Watcharapong Tangpipatpaiboon for Aidin having to make a save. Both sets of defence held command. A scoreless draw was the correct result.

Fortunately, most of the rain had completely stopped as I headed away. A look at Google Maps suggested a different route back might work, so I headed towards Tiwanon Road past a couple of extremely interesting bars.

A bus soon arrived which took me towards Chaeng Wattana. A little walk later and a van pulled up which took me all the way home. More education and an interesting day in which I saw football being played in what were ridiculous conditions.