Thai Royal Army FC, often known as Army FC is a football club based in Bangkok, Thailand who were formed in 2011 as Army Welfare Development FC and played in the Khǒr Royal Cup, a competition for non-league clubs in Thailand.
Thai Army Stadium, Bangkok
The club was formed after Army United began to sign players from outside the army as the professional game in Thailand began to be established, with the team sharing the Thai Army Sports Stadium in the Din Daeng district of Bangkok. The club won the Khǒr Royal Cup in 2014 and was promoted to the third-tier Regional League Division 2 in the Bangkok Area division. In their debut season, the club finished in sixth place.
The Main Entrance, Thai Army Stadium, Bangkok
A fourth-place finish in 2016 saw Army being placed in Thai League 3 (T3) Lower Region following league reconstruction, with Col. Somsakul Vijitraparb in charge of the team for the 2017 season as the team finished in fourth place thanks to the goals of Kraisorn Sriyan.
This was
followed up as Army ended seventh in 2018 with Nattapong Kumnate and Noppadon
Kasaen both weighing in with goals under head coach Lt. Adul Chumsaeng. The
Thai League was reorganised ahead of the 2020-21 season as it reverted to the
European calendar with Army being placed in T3 Bangkok.
BTU Stadium, Thonburi
Chaiwat Nakeiam
was appointed as team boss, as the pandemic affected season saw his side finish
in tenth position as the club played their home games at Nakhon Nayok Stadium.
There would then follow three consecutive campaigns of consistency as Army
finished ninth each time.
A shortage
of goals became a regular feature. Surat Suriyachai with seven in 2022-23 was
the standout under coach Chaiwat who marshalled his troops in a disciplined
fashion to not concede goals either. The 2023-24 season saw the team move to
Bangkok Thonburi University Stadium to play their home games.
The club was
moved to Thai League 3 West for 2024-25 on account of their location and the restructuring
of the third-tier.
Royal Thai Army FC will play in Thai League 3 West in the 2024-25 season. My visit Army FC 1 Buriram United 7 (Sunday 10th April 2016) Thai League Cup Round One (att: approx. 1,800)
The 29th Chiang Mai International Cricket Sixes had been a huge success and I arrived back in Bangkok in good form, if a little weary. After checking into the Sukhumvit 23 Suites, it was time to meet up with my good pal Steve Walker for pre-match refreshments.
The waitresses at The Clubhouse were most helpful in writing down directions for the taxi in Thai, so after we’d had a beer and food it was time to head to the stadium. The girls had done well, as the driver recognised our destination immediately.
Around thirty minutes later we were dropped off by the away fans' driveway to the Thai Army Stadium, far earlier than we’d anticipated. It was immediately obvious that the visitors would have a healthy following, as many Buriram natives now lived in the capital.
We wandered around and bought a ticket, which was far cheaper than the advertised price. Perhaps this was because it was a cup match? I believe it was only 60 Baht each (around £1.15). This seemed to be excellent value for an all-top-flight clash?
It is here that I have to own up. As I researched this piece a few weeks after the match I discovered that we were watching Army FC of the Regional League third tier, and not Army United of the Premier League! This explained an awful lot as you read on.
We bought a large beer to share from a grizzled woman under the stand, who one could imagine had hammered more than one army cadet into shape. Steve did everything to try and make her smile, but she was a tough gig.
Our seats for the Army section gave us limited scope. The obligatory band was down at the front, with the drummer seemingly fancying himself as the next Cozy Powell, although he was definitely not the best.
The local in front of us had his iPad showing all the other live scores in the League Cup, so he was able to keep me up to date on my team Port’s progress up the road at Look Tapfah. He also had our match on, as it was being shown on live TV.
Buriram did indeed have an impressive following, with the central open section behind the goal very busy and the crowd continuing round and taking up their allocation of seating. It’s fair to say that several were quite aesthetic.
We anticipated a tight game, which it surely would have been if it hadn’t been the reserve side that was playing! No wonder we thought the home defence and goalkeeper would struggle to keep Army in the TPL! Within four minutes, the aforementioned hapless keeper had made a real mess up as Brazilian striker Weslley made it 1-0.
It was 2-0 when Korean Kim Seung-Yong finished. The referee was obviously feeling sorry for the home side when he turned down a stone wall penalty, which led to the injured striker being stretchered off. Our friend on the iPad confirmed that it was a bad tackle and a penalty.
Further goals from Kaio and Weslley sent Buriram down the tunnel at the break with a 4-0 lead. We had another beer, as our barmaid nearly broke into a grin. We also attempted to get into the away end for a different view but the security wouldn’t have it.
The Army fans had something to cheer on fifty three minutes when Pongsuriyan scored. They gave it their best shot and tried to carry on, but there was a large gulf in class between the two sides. Ten minutes later Kim quelled any thoughts of a comeback to make it 5-1.
‘Ram were determined to see just how much confetti their fans had travelled with, which was thrown around following each goal as a couple of further efforts from Kaio allowed him to complete his hat trick.
With five minutes remaining we headed for the exit and took the footbridge over the Don Muang Expressway to hail down a taxi. It was time for us to meet up with Gavin Shaw and his good friend Anthony for a liberal libation on Soi Cowboy. A good time was had by all as we related the tail of a shocking Army United team. If only we had known, or I had done my research properly!
To read details on my previous visit to the Thai Army Sports Stadium for an Army United game, please click here.
Rajamangala National Stadium is located as part of the large complex under the operation of the Sports Authority of Thailand (SAT), in the district of Hua Mak, in the east of the capital, Bangkok.
The main material used in construction was concrete and therefore, creating a stadium that is both impressive and imposing. It is undoubtedly dramatic, especially when viewed from its approach or by visitors heading into the city from Suvarnabhumi Airport.
The stands rise and fall like a giant, exaggerated version of the stadium opened in Huddersfield in 2004. At each end are quite narrow tiers of seats but the tiers rise and rise as they move round the sides until they peak level with the half-way line.
It has been home to the national football team for many matches as well as being used for other events over the years after being opened in 1988 in readiness to stage the Asean Games to great acclaim.
Groups in the 2007 AFC Asian Cup were staged in the arena, including the matches which Thailand played in. Thai club sides have also used the stadium when playing in continental cup competitions.
Krung Thai Bank FC, who would later morph into what is now BG Pathum United and PEA FC used it in the AFCChampions League and AFC Cup, respectively. Aside from football, it has been used for athletics, pop concerts and political rallies as the SAT try to use it to its full potential.
Among the musical stars to have entertained the crowds in the magnificent bowl are Lada Gaga, Coldplay, Ed Sheeran, Harry Styles, Justin Bieber, One Direction and Blackpink, as well as numerous other shows and exhibitions.
The side tribunes are designated 'East' and 'West'. 'East' is the uncovered popular side; 'West' is the covered side where the more expensive seats are. The two ends are designated 'North' and 'South'.
The capacity of the stadium is around 55,000. The oft-quoted figure of 65,000 was the capacity when the stadium first opened but at that time the 'North', 'South' and 'East' sides were bare, concrete steps.
The stadium staged the home games of BB-CU as their ground share with Army United was not permissible during their spell in the Thai Premier League, as United were also in that division. Games were played in front of small crowds.
Manchester United defeated Liverpool 4-0 in the Century Cup in 2022 in front of 50,428 spectators. In 2023 tournament football returned to Rajamangla, as group games in the under 17s Asian Cup were staged. The largest attendance came when 421 witnessed Japan's 1-1 draw with Uzbekistan.
My visits
April 2007
The following is my description of my visit as part of a ground hop around Thailand in March/April 2007 that appeared in the Scarborough Athletic FC fanzine, Abandon Chip
"The week after Chiang Mai (an amateur international cricket tournament I had attended) I had time to kill while my hosts Steve and Ea were at work, so I decided this was a great time to adventure without the assistance of local knowledge, which led to the challenge.
The following Tuesday I took a taxi to the country's major venue, the imposing Rajamangala Stadium. Despite the outer gates being open the guards wouldn’t let me in before I eventually came across the Thailand Museum of Sport.
A kind lady let me have a look around while she enquired on the telephone if I could get inside the stadium, once she’d satisfied herself that I didn’t belong to the media. Our esteemed editor obviously hadn’t sorted me any Abandon Chip accreditation.
I’d borrowed Steve’s good camera which had no doubt raised her suspicions. The stadium didn't disappoint me once inside and it proved worth the effort in negotiation. It is a huge bowl with the usual athletics facilities which dips down at each end with just a roof covering the main side.
The stadium can accommodate 65,000 and is all seated. It would be the location if ever Mr. Scudamore and his cronies get away with their plans to play Premier League games around the world".
Thailand U23 0 North Korea U23 0 (Tuesday 31st March 2015) AFC Under 23 Qualifier (att: 20,000)
It was the second day of my holiday in Thailand in readiness for the Chiang Mai International Cricket Sixes and after a decent rest at my host Steve Walker’s house, his girlfriend Fah delivered us some fine local food from a nearby street stall in Minburi on the outskirts of Bangkok.
After many visits to the Land of Smiles, I was determined to use local transport and I’d done plenty of homework regarding buses to be able to do so. Steve and I caught an open-backed songthaew to the main road in Minburi in what proved to be sweltering temperatures.
We then continued by catching a number 27 service bus which dropped us opposite the ever-impressive indoor air-conditioned Bangkapi Mall, offering a welcome rest bite from the conditions before heading for our third mode of transport.
This came in the form of the Khlong Saen Saep Express Boat. The short journey dropped us off at Mahadthai from where we had a look in the Adidas store and a large outlet with sports goods from all the major manufacturers on the corner of Ramkhamhaeng 65 and the main road. The complete journey of around 20km cost about 58p for the pair of us.
The stadium was across the busy thoroughfare, which required the footbridge to cross just under the flyway. Fans were assembling ready for their team's big game. The other group game between Cambodia and the Philippines had kicked off at 4pm inside, but we decided to wait for the main event at 7pm.
Requiring refreshments and some food, we grabbed some cheap fried chicken from a street vendor which helped enhance our thirst. Google Maps were not as reliable as we'd hoped, and after a bit of a wild goose chase, we settled for a large beer in the trendy Wink Bar.
We were looking for a bar selling worldwide craft beers on the map, but we ended up outside the stadium for a tin of Leo before buying our 200 Baht (£4 tickets). These represented decent value for this match, but they covered both games. No match programmes were available.
Extensive searches and several ticket checks were carried out before we headed up to our seats in the open West Stand. I had been in touch with Tom, a groundhopping mate who I’d last seen at Leatherhead. He was now teaching English in Bangkok and got stuck into watching games around the country. He was at the back of the lower tier and waiting for us.
We found three seats together towards the back a bit further round so we could have a good chat. Our side and the two ends began to fill up. The support when everyone sang or cheered in unison was most impressive. Three ultra sections were spread around leading the support.
The game itself was short of action and attacking intent for such an important clash, being the final game in the group. Thailand had not capitalised on building their goal difference against the two weaker sides in the four-team group and now required a win to top the section and automatically qualify for the finals.
The North Koreans looked a far better organised side and we all predicted that they weren’t about to be beaten.As the match went into the second half we were surprised and frustrated by the home side's tactics.
It was as though they had no concern. By the eightieth minute, we were getting a bit tetchy and lamented the attitudes on show. The game finished with a whimper without any real goal-mouth action. The home side took their plaudits as we trudged out.
Tom joined us for some post-match refreshment as the crowds drifted by. The ‘highlights’ were being shown on TV in the open bar we chose along with interviews. No-one seemed concerned in the slightest.
We had an inkling that we were missing something when Tom found out the news that Thailand had gone through as a best runner up. The news of earlier kick offs around Asia had obviously been passed onto the players on the pitch. Fans leaving the stadium kept coming by. They’d stayed behind to celebrate.
We went over the road and found a fine upstairs bar overlooking things and with open sides. Each of us had a Thai meal and a large pint bottle of beer. The total cost was 480 Baht or less than £10. The area around Ramkhamhaeng University and the Sports Authority of Thailand really was a decent find.
Steve and I finished off by jumping in a cab and ending proceedings with a couple of nightcaps outside our favourite Minburi bar, Sudtong Club, to round off an educational and great value-for-money outing.
Bangkok United 2 Buriram United 0 (Saturday 5th August 2023) Thai Champions Cup (att: 10,824)
A shock in the Thai equivalent of the Community Shield as Bangkok United (BU) did a proper job on last season’s treble winners Buriram United (BR). Thoroughly deserved it was too, as from the outset the winners went about their task, threatening before Brazilian striker Willen finished off a smart move after eight minutes.
BR new signing Ramil Sheydayev of Azerbaijan origins looked good out wide but there seemed to be an overreliance on supplying him which was soon pounced upon, and he gradually became increasingly frustrated throughout the match.
The club had fired forward Jonaton Bolingi in the summer for ill-discipline, but his replacement in the starting lineup, Lonsana Doumbouya looked lightweight, losing interest quickly after being the recipient of a strong areal challenge from Suphan Thongsong.
International striker Supachai Jaided seemed strangely muted playing just behind him. It was a curious performance from the favourites to retain the Thai league title, though Bangkok won the corresponding fixture the previous season. There are no points at stake in a friendly.
Thitipan Puangchan in a holding midfield role for BU was excellent as was the scorer of the second goal Eid Mahmoud, a Palestinian who always impresses me who notched five minutes after the restart.
His chance came after more woeful BR defensive work allowed a wide man to skip past the full back and deliver a low cross. The play from the Bangkok side was fluid throughout with their keeper Patiwat Khammai making one excellent save in the first half and a regulation one after the break.
A special mention to the referee Mr Somsingha who clamped down when necessary but gave the game a chance to flow which it did. He also did well in my opinion to wave away much of the moaning emanating from the Buriram crew.
It was great to be back at Rajamanagala. The place had suffered during the pandemic and was getting a blast from some Thai-based westerners on social media owing to the lack of football being played there and a recent postponement featuring Leicester City and Tottenham Hotspur.
In truth, I suspect that had more to do with the lack of desire from the two teams than the conditions. There was a floodlit 6-a-side beach football tournament in progress with crowds around it when I was leaving as well as lots of other facilities being in use.
It created a vibrant atmosphere around the place, as many athletes from a wide range of disciplines got to use the facilities. Whether it's archery, ice hockey, gymnastics, velodrome cycling, swimming, athletics, snooker, or one of the other multitude of sports with a national authority, then Rajamangala is the place to head.
I arrived by two buses and a boat down the Saen Seap Canal a couple of hours before kickoff and bought cheap food from the open market next to the main road before putting on my sad eyes and getting the open-fronted Wink Bar to serve me eighty minutes ahead of their 6pm opening time so that I could get back over the road for kickoff.
My return
journey was by one of the many buses that pass by along a bustling Ramkhamhaeng
Road at the front of the complex. I changed to a taxi near Fashion Island and
was home ready for food in just over an hour after full-time.
Muangthong United FC, is a major football club based in Nonthaburi to the north of Bangkok in Thailand. The club were formed in 1989 under the ownership of Siam Sports Syndicate. The SCG, which the club added in front of their title.
This was to acknowledge Siam Cement Group who became major backers of the club in February 2012. 'The Twin Qilins' joined the third tier of Thailand football in 2007 as Muang Thong Nong Jork United, winning the title in their inaugural season and gaining promotion.
United built relationships with both Arsenal and Lierse to assist with their development. In 2008 they lifted the Thai Division One title at their first attempt to win promotion to the Thai Premier League as the combination of Yaya Soumahoro and Jacques Tioye rattled in the goals.
Players were recruited as significant sums of money were pumped into the club. In their first seasons in the TPL United were crowned as champions as Attaphol Buspakom took over as coach from Surasak Tansurat. The feat was repeated in 2010 as Dagno Siaka ended as top scorer for a second consecutive season.
FA Cup runs also followed. In 2010 the trophy was denied in the final by a 2-1 defeat to Chonburi. The following year Buriram PEA ran out 1-0 winners after extra time, with Robbie Fowler as player-manager of MTU after replacing Henrique Calisto who had come in for Roberto Carlos who had been appointed in place of René Desaeyere in a chaotic season.
The club had built their own stadium in the new development of Muang Thong Thani in Pak Kret by the expressway, which was unusual in Thailand as it had no running track. Originally called Thunderdome Stadium, it became Yamaha Stadium and then the SCG Stadium at the same time as the sponsorship deal.
After the third-place league finish in 2011, the former Red Star Belgrade, Chelsea, and Serbia star Slaviša Jokanović joined the club as head coach as he led the side to the 2012 TPL title with star of Thai football, Teerasil Dangda putting away the goals.
Winfried Schäfer took over as team boss following the success, only to be replaced by the returning Desaeyere whose side ended as runners-up. Scott Cooper lasted for a short while in the 2014 campaign with Dragan Talajić appointed in his place as United finished fifth in the TPL as Mario Gjurovski top scored.
The final placing was not helped by a nnine-pointdeduction to both Muangthong and Singhtarua following crowd violence between the two set of fans after the derby at the SCG Stadium which saw away fans banned from the fixture for the near future. Led by skipper Datsakorn Thonglao, the team finished as runners up to runaway champions Buriram United in 2015. They lost 3-1 to the same opponents in the FA Cup final at Supachalasai Stadium on Boxing Day with Cleiton Silva the latest goalscoring hero.
Talajić was replaced by Totchtawan Sripan, as Muangthong, spurred on by the goals once again of Silva, went on to become league champions in 2016, backing up the triumph by also sharing the League Cup with Buriram United after the final was postponed following the death of King Bhumibol Adulyadej.
The team qualified out of the group stages in the 2017 AFC Champions League before going out in the Round of 16 to Kawasaki Frontale of Japan. Meanwhile, Teerasil Dangda was coming to the fore on the pitch, inspiring his teammates as he captained the side.
United ended as runners-up in the league in 2017 with Brazilian starLeandro Assumpção leading the scoring after being signed from Sisaket. The League Cup was won with a 2-0 victory over Chiangrai United with goals from Peerapat Notchaiya and Dangda.
Dangda departed to Sanfrecce Hiroshima as Muangthong ended in a disappointing fourth place in the 2018 domestic season despite the regular goals of Heberty. Sripan was replaced by Radovan Ćurčić in March 2018.
Pairoj Borwonwatanadilok was appointed as head coach for the 2019 season until he was replaced by Yoon Joong-hwan as the side ended fifth again in the top tier. Thai football adjusted its calendar to the same as Europe for the 2020-21 campaign.
MTU finished seventh after SCG ended their association with the club meaning a decline in player investment, departures, as well as often empty stadiums owing to the Covid-19 pandemic. Team boss Alexandre Gama had been replaced by Mario Gjurovskiin October 2020.
The Macedonian coach led United to fourth position in 2021-22 as Brazilian Willian Popp topped the scoring charts. The same
position was attained in 2023-24 with again Popp producing the goods after Miloš
Joksić had been appointed as interim head coach a month into the season.
Muangthong also went on to reach the final of the League Cup, where they went down to a stoppage-time goal against BG Pathum United scored by their former hero Teerasil. Gino
Lettieri was appointed as head coach in July 2024 as changes were made to the
playing personnel.
Muangthong United will play in the Thai League 1 in the 2024-25 season.
My visits
SCG Muangthong United 2 Bangkok Glass 2 (Wednesday 28th March 2012) Thai Premier League (att: 15,000)
I had been keen to take in more matches while holidaying in Thailand for some time. I had visited the country often enough, but I always found myself busy when football took place with my cricket commitments.
After taking the plunge through joining Twitter, the App opened all manner of information. A German/Thai website and Twitter account were most useful. The guys running it gave me regular updated information, which was much appreciated.
As luck would have it, there was to be a full midweek programme during the week I had designated for sightseeing and doing whatever I wanted. The standout match was the clash at SCG Stadium on Wednesday evening.
I returned from a lovely time in Kanchanaburi and got back to the Admiral Premier Hotel in Bangkok, where my good friend Steve Walker was awaiting my arrival. We headed round to The Crossbar for another top-notch meal and to meet up with old friends before heading off to the stadium.
Steve had been to the stadium with his brother-in-law Mark and nephew Perry a couple of years previously, but the match was abandoned as the pitch became waterlogged after a few minutes with only the offer of returning to the re-arranged game as compensation.
We walked down Sukhumvit Road to what we thought would be the easiest place to grab a taxi to the stadium. About ten drivers all turned the fare down, and I was starting to get concerned when I pointed to Steve that a car had an MTU scarf in it.
Steve managed to get the young driver to wind his window down and ask if he was going to the game? He was, and even better he didn't mind us getting a lift, or at least we think that's what he meant! The fan was called Fiat and he lived in Bangkok but had a season ticket for MTU. His English team was Manchester United.
Fiat was a true gentleman. I think he enjoyed his chat with us about football in particular the English Premier League. He explained the reasons why we were being turned down by the taxis. The SCG Stadium was across the road from the Impact Arena, Bangkok's biggest exhibition centre and indoor concert arena.
They had put on a gig featuring one of Thailand's biggest names and were holding the Motor Show at the same time as a full house was expected over the road for the football. Steve put it down to typical Thai planning. The traffic was horrendous and at a standstill for much of the journey of around 20km. Fiat was growing increasingly anxious that he was going to miss much of the match.
Time was ticking by, and we still couldn't see the stadium. At last, we crawled down the slip road with the floodlights in view, but the jams were as bad. Fiat told us to get out and go for it. He still had the problem of trying to find somewhere to park his car. He was a legend. He refused any money and wouldn't even take anything for the toll road tariffs.
We dodged in and out of traffic to reach the stadium and then the ticket office. Kick-off had been put back to allow for the crowds. Steve said we wanted tickets for the South End, which was terracing. He came back shaking his head. We could only get in down the side. I muttered that we'd be in with the old folks. How wrong I was.
A young lady took our ticket stubs and stamped our wrists, so we could go back out if we required to use any of the facilities. Our tickets, which I later discovered had 'complimentary' stamped on them!, didn't have a designated row or seat. We somehow spotted two seats together and were greeted with warm smiles by the locals.
A couple of westerners were in the row in front. Increased numbers of fans were coming in and were sitting in the aisles. It was soon apparent that they were selling more tickets than they officially had space for! As for my assumption about the older folk. Well, we must have been pushing on for being the eldest there.
Thai clubs are supported by the new generation who love the way clubs and the leagues try to emulate the European setups. There were some real youngsters, but most fans were aged between fourteen- and thirty-year-old of both sexes. They loved making a noise.
Our seats were level with the halfway line and cost 150 baht (around £1.80). The stand we were in had a tier of seats with boxes at the rear. On top of those was another deck of seating. Further up the touchline was the away fans section, where we reckoned around 2,500 Bangkok Glass fans were rammed in.
To our right was the South End, which was where the main Ultras stood and made a real noise. The North End was also for standing fans. They were matched by the fans at the other end.
Opposite us was the final stand, which joined up in the corners to the end stands and contained the player's facilities, press box, TV tower and seating. Every space was packed. The stewards and security let people sit and stand where they could without interfering. God, it was refreshing.
We were expecting a convincing home win and I predicted 4-1, as MTU had hammered Thai Port 5-1 at home in their weekend fixture. However, Glass had not read the script and they played the better of the football. MTU missed an absolute sitter after some great approach play and a layback, but Glass also created plenty.
United spurned another opportunity before the visitors took the lead after a good ball sent the wide man through. He laid it square for Thai international striker Teeratep Winothai to slot home to send 'The Glass Rabbit' fans wild with delight.
MTU went in level at the break thanks to the award of a very soft penalty. Dutch forward Adnan Barakat went over a defender's leg in the style of Ashley Young. It looked terrible from our vantage point. He got up and put the penalty away himself.
At half time I went in search of refreshments. It was still very warm despite it being around 9pm. I went behind the away section to get a feel of the atmosphere. There was the occasional 'farang' (westerner) around, but the demographics were much the same as in our section.
The away fans Bunny Girls Dance Team distracted me from queueing, but I was soon being served two large cups of coke for around 50p. I had to chuckle at the elevated expressway, which was perched near the away section. It would have led to chaos in the UK amongst those with evil intent.
I found my way back for the second half, in which Glass continued to play the better football. Too many players, particularly the Africans on show were falling over far too frequently for our liking. The visitors regained the lead after a clever short corner routine left Wonothai with a free header, which he didn't waste.
A fine run and shot from French import Flavien Michelini brought the best out of the MTU goalie to keep them in the game. After gaining more of the control MTU drew level with a fine shot by the Ivorian, Mohamed Koné. At full time we headed to the club shop. There was plenty of merchandise to tempt the customers, all at very reasonable prices at least to my income. I settled for a couple of excellently produced match programmes at just 10 baht (20p) each.
MTU was a bit too like Man Utd for my personal taste. They were slick and professional, but I always did prefer the underdogs. Their style of play hadn't endeared me to them either, although I'd be back to the SCG Stadium like a shot if I was given half a chance.
We went into the South End for photos. Most of the crowd were still in, applauding their heroes as they warmed down. We didn't hang around for long as we needed to grab a taxi back into the city. We got one quite quickly, but the driver wanted 400 baht (£8) to take us back to Soi Cowboy. I told Steve I'd pay for it. It was well worth it and far easier than standing around for another hour. Within forty minutes we were walking up our favourite little avenue and sitting outside The Moonshine Joint drinking and chatting with pals over for the cricket as well as the excellent Bangkok Post sports reporter Roger Crutchley and bars owner from Newcastle NSW, Steve Hatherall.
We sat there watching the world go by drinking multiple bottles of San Miguel Lite with the likes of Gavin Shaw, Lemon, Speed, Woodsy and Matt Luton. I was in a wonderful place that evening!
The match and experience had been pretty amazing and wonderful value for money. I would definitely do it again if I received the opportunity. To see a video I took during the match, click here. Muangthong United 2 Bangkok Glass 1 (Sunday 6th April 2014) Thai Premier League (att: 15,000)
While I always try and visit new grounds given the opportunity, the repeated clash from my previous visit was an ideal fixture with an 8pm kick-off. It was the day on which I’d returned from yet another magnificent Chiang Mai International Cricket Sixes.
I arrived and checked into the Asia Hotel at Zeer Rangsit and then enjoyed the North Bangkok v Chamchuri United Regional League clash in Pathum Thani which kicked off conveniently at 4pm.
My driver took a most unusual route before we drove along the bank of the Grand Canal, cutting along and dropping me off to the south of the Impact Arena. As with my first visit the match clashed with the motor show inside the arena.
There was a section at the top end of the complex open with an indoor market and food court which I popped in for a look.
The crowds built up on the walk up to SCG Stadium. I was examining the stadium diagram and the ticket office to see where I fancied sitting when a young lady inside turned the boards around. They read ‘all tickets sold”. This was the most alarming news. At the same time, a girl tried to return an unwanted ticket. I helped her out immediately. She was happy taking 100 Baht (around £2) for a 120 Baht ticket behind the goal. I had noted that a VIP ticket was 500 Baht, which I maybe should have considered.
At last, I felt like a beer, so I enjoyed a large Leo before going inside. The ticket had no specific seat, so it was a matter of first come first served. I grabbed a position near the corner, halfway up as the home ultras at either end put on a fine display of banners and singing. They tried extremely hard to replicate European fans.
The home crowd went berserk as they saw that Buriram United had conceded a late goal to draw at Saphanburi. The fans of the Glass Rabbits filled their normal section, so they were given another block as well as a section on the top tier. It really was an incredible atmosphere.
As the teams entered the pitch, I realised that ex-Cardiff City and QPR, amongst many other clubs, striker Jay Bothroyd was playing up front for Muangthong, who I must admit to not being their biggest fan before kickoff.
The fans were OK and the stadium was excellent, but they had a bit too much commercialism about them. The way some of their players threw themselves around in the corresponding clash in 2012 didn't endear me towards them.
I also had to chuckle at the strap line by the museum that read that their history never ends, and a banner at the far end reading ‘Welcome to Hell’ to try and intimidate visitors. They had obviously never been to Goole.
I tried to watch the game impartially, but I could see what was coming after just two minutes when Glass full-back Jose Mena was booked for a tame foul on Bothroyd. United powered forward and was given able assistance from the referee and his linesmen. Glass defended well with the charismatic Narit Taweekul in goal.
Gradually the visitors started playing some good stuff of their own as they spread the play and frustrated both the United team and their supporters. The Frenchman Flavien Michelini was excellent wide on the right. Bothroyd had started brightly but then disappeared for prolonged periods
Glass took the lead with a fine move finished with a header from Chatree Chimtalay on twenty-five minutes. I did my best not to cheer too loudly! Visiting skipper and ex-United player Teeratep Winothai who had a youth career at Crystal Palace and Everton was roundly booed.
He looked like a fine player, as someone with 51 international caps should. He was booked and then sent off in injury time in the first half. Neither were particularly bad offences.
Just after his dismissal, Muangthong equalised. The only shock to me was that the ref hadn’t awarded a penalty or scored it himself. As it transpired it was left to Korean defender Dong-Jin Kim to nod home after a mighty scramble.
Halftime came at a suitable time for a stretch and a drink. The temperature was still in the thirties as all the players on both sides gave it everything. I took up a seat in the gangway for the second period to enable a bit more legroom. Individual seats had been added behind the goals since my previous visit, without much thought for anyone over six feet tall.
Michelini went off after ten minutes of the second half after receiving some rough treatment. The game was there for the taking for the home side after the best two Glass players were out of the way.
They gradually turned the screw, which led to Bothroyd finishing delightfully on sixty-three minutes. The bloke had oozed class when he appeared bothered in a microcosm of his career. I didn’t reckon he deserved the fawning the westerners were giving him from the stands.
United came close on several occasions to add to their lead. They looked a very decent side. It was a shame of the way the match had gone as it promised to be a classic when Glass were at full strength. The visitors nearly grabbed a stoppage-time equaliser as panic spread in the home box, but it wasn’t to be.
The away fans took defeat an awful lot better than I’d have done in their shoes outside the ground, with lots of smiles and handshakes. Thais really are wonderful people. I received a further illustration of this fact as I tried to flag down a taxi. I’d gone over the main road near a massive car park to try and get the first go at a cab.
A couple of drivers knocked me back before a man in a Muangthong shirt asked where I needed to go? He quoted me 200 Baht, which would have been what I expected to pay by the metre, so I gladly accepted.
He was an off-duty taxi driver who was delighted a westerner had gone to watch his team. We managed a basic chat about the game and the TPL. He showed me a picture of his young son who he was obviously enormously proud of before dropping me off exactly where I needed to be to pick up some supper.
It had been a cracking evening out, even if the game didn’t go the way I’d have preferred. Muangthong United had an awful lot right. It’s just that they were just not entirely my thing.
Muangthong United 0 Buriram United 1 (Saturday 29th January 2022) Thai League 1 (att: 5,875
I had been enjoying every minute of Bangkok since moving permanently to the Land of Smiles a couple of months earlier. The football adventures were living up to expectations as I got around to new venues, but on this occasion, I opted for the biggest game in Thailand all weekend.
Setting out with the best of intentions from Minburi to go all the way by public transport, my plans hit the buffers when I stood on Ram Intra for a good thirty minutes without any sign of the bus that my App said I required. I would learn easier ways in the future.
A taxi was hailed with the intention of dropping me outside the Thunder Dome Stadium. However, on the way along Chaeng Wattana-Pak Kret 33, which trendily becomes Bond Street near the new retail developments I saw Nap Bar, so I asked my driver to let me out.
Yes, it was trendy, and just opening for business. The staff seemed a little perplexed but extremely courteous with decent music being played. After just one large bottle of Leo, I continued the ten-minute walk towards the stadium.
Under the Ubon Ratthaya Expressway, I came across a fan zone with numerous pop-up bars and got talking to a United and Sunderland fan called Ian, who was a teacher in Bangkok. We had a good chat and took in the fan display from the Curva Sud ultras which can be seen here.
I said my goodbyes after being propositioned by a Thai who wanted me to be his English teacher and chatting an MTU fan originally from Dresden I headed to find my gate behind the near south goal.
It was a sign of the times that the capacity was still restricted, and a girl steward stood at the steps with a board reminding everyone to wear a mask. Covid really was lingering in the air, although it was quite relaxed inside the stadium.
Buriram with an excellent away following really did look a good side. They were well disciplined and reminded me of Liverpool in the 1980s with their solid defence and fine rapid counterattacking play.
After eating up what early pressure Muangthong put together, for whom I thought Willian Popp led the line well, Buriram went ahead on eight minutes when midfielder Rattanakorn Maikam got on the end of a free kick to score.
After that, the visitors always looked the more likely to score, as MTU huffed and puffed around the last third without ever really making away goalie Siwarak Tedsungnoen do anything of note.
At full-time, a former MTU player now with Buriram came to the Curva Sud and was given a tremendous ovation. I really liked that. A decent atmosphere in an excellent stadium, with 150 Baht a little on the steep side for a place behind the goal, but worth it.
Previous experience had told me that taxis weren’t easy to come by after a game, so I walked past the car park and the IMPACT Speed Park and flagged one down within a couple of minutes.
The exercise must have made me thirsty as my notes suggest I left my local bar at 4am where the girls tried their absolute best to give me lessons in Thai. At least I knew how to say "shut your mouth" in Isaan by the time I got to bed. It’s a tough old life.
Muangthong United 2 Port FC 1 (Saturday 5th February 2022) Thai League 1 (att: 4,985)
I will always be a football fan before one of the individual clubs in Thailand, particularly as I wanted to get around Bangkok to see matches and meet people as possible. That said, it will always be Port who I cheer for most.
With fans still banned owing to crowd trouble between the two clubs at the Thunderdome eight years earlier I decided I could trust myself to sit in the main stand among home supporters. I paid 180 Baht for the privilege.
Arriving this time via a van that dropped me off at Don Muang station, a pleasant walk and then taxi I again headed for the area under the motorway. Again, Ian was there, introducing me to an American who was also a secret Port fan.
Unbelievably he had heard of Scarborough and when he saw the shirt that I was wearing wanted to chat about the infamous Wolverhampton Wanderers match back in 1987 as he had seen a documentary about it with all the crowd trouble. He was astonished when I told him I was at the game, which led to a chat.
My seat was in the corner near to the North Stand and offered an excellent view. Port were on a poor run of form, which coincidentally started after I attended the first game after the holiday break. I was wondering if I would ever see them win again.
Once again, they put in a powder puff performance which had me trying to silently moan. I really liked defender David Rochela, but he was well past his best as he lacked any pace. Popp was leading him a merry dance.
It was the Brazilian who opened the scoring on twelve minutes. Port stayed in the game without offering any real threat up to the interval when I went out the back for a stretch, to find a most welcome feature.
The N Zone fans had their own tub selling ice cold small cans for 40 Baht and played music under the shelter of the indoor arena next door. Someone came around and offered me free grilled pork straight off the barbecue. What lovely people.
Returning with my optimism restored, I was soon brought back down to earth when Teeraphol Yoryoei doubled the lead. The Lions pulled one back through substitute Seulki Ko with twenty minutes to go.
Hope sprang eternal, but I should have known better. Port were lacking in firepower with Nelson Bonilla shot shy and Sergio Saurez looking ever more frustrated by the appearance. United held on to win with ease.
After the game, I decided for some reason that the IMPACT Arena and nearby hotels would be a good bet for a taxi. I was wrong but had an interesting walk before finally finding one on Popular Road to take me back to reflect on a decent night but poor Port performance, but it’s only a game!
Muangthong United 0 Port FC 0 (Sunday 9th October 2022) Thai League 1 (att: 5,311)
The away fan ban continued for another year and was starting to get a bit silly. Nevertheless, it wasn’t going to stop me, so I bought the same online ticket as from the previous season.
I had seen a cracker of a game earlier in the afternoon ending 3-3 after 90 minutes, between DX Academy and Hippo FC, who remarkably were drawn away to Muangthong in the FA Cup when the draw was made a couple of days later.
A taxi dropped me near the fan zone as the rain started to pour down. Fortunately, the cover of the flyover kept me dry while enjoying a beer. I couldn’t see Ian, so I decided to take a punt on the N Zone regulars selling beers after purchasing a programme from the shop behind the stand, the first I had seen post Covid in Thailand.
They were in the same position and could not have been friendlier, while admittedly not knowing I wanted a Port victory. Again, the free pork was offered, and the beer remained cold. A lady tried to sell me a fan t-shirt but there are limits!
I went in as the teams came out. I wanted to be there in time for the silence to commemorate the children murdered in an attack in Nong Bua Province a few days earlier, which had devastated the country. Curva Sud held up a banner saying, “Rest in peace angels”. I couldn’t have said it better.
It was fortunate that I had seen some proper excitement on a pitch earlier in the day before this excuse for a game. It was as poor a game as I had seen in my eleven months in Thailand. Both sides lacked confidence and the wherewithal to finish the few chances on offer.
United looked the more likely of the two to score and looked like they had gone ahead on twenty-seven minutes when an unmarked Sardor Mirzaev sneaked in at the near post to put away a cross from Phumin Kaewta.
Fortunately for the visitors, referee Mongkolchai Pechsri was advised to check his VAR monitor where he saw a handball earlier in the move and disallowed the goal. Frans Putros saw a shot saved by home goalie Somporn Yos shortly after.
Those were the highlights of the first half. I was heading towards the exit for the break when two local gents shouted at told me to meet them for a beer. Muangthong members, Thumtiti and Mai met me out the back and had a drink with me. Both lovely gents.
Port made a decent opportunity for William Weidersjö who managed to fluff his lines. A decent shot by Teerasak Poeiphimai was pushed around the post by Yos before he denied Hamilton from the resulting corner. The keeper then thwarted Ben Davis as Port enjoyed a good spell.
The lads had popped down and brought me a beer back, which I didn’t know was permitted, but I wasn’t in the mood to discuss it with friendly hosts. Muangthong forward Poramet Arjvirai was denied by a combination of Negueba and keeper Worawut Srisupha. Anier then volleyed across goal for the home side.
At full time I said goodbye to the lads and ended up under the flyover chatting to expat United fans including a nice catch-up with Ian. We had a laugh at the official gate which was nearer 3,000 and agreed neither side deserved the victory.
It had been a long day, and the exercise, beer and a poor previous night's sleep saw me nod off in my taxi home. Fortunately, the driver had the common sense to wake me as we approached Minburi!
Hokkaido Consadole Sapporo v Kawasaki Frontale (Tuesday 15th November 2022) J League Asian Challenge
What great news. Two top Japanese sides playing an accessible friendly. I bought my ticket with great eagerness after being alerted by my friend Thumtiti and headed to Chaeng Wattana by van before enjoying a walk along the Grand Canal learning as I went.
It was my first time having a look at the sprawling community which offered plenty of local food and drink options. It was a lot bigger than I imagined, but I was soon in sight of the Thunder Dome where there was absolutely no sign of life.
I went to enquire but nobody was about. I went online to find that the game had been moved earlier in the day to Leo Stadium in Pathum Thani, with little chance of me getting there in time. I trudged away and walked back down to the main road before getting a van back to Minburi.
At least I had a decent and interesting walk, and a few weeks later Thai Ticket Major reimbursed my ticket fee which I hadn't been expecting.
Muangthong United 4 Bangkok United 1 (Saturday 29th July 2023) Charity Match (att: c2,000)
A comprehensive win for the hosts on their home turf against what I was told was a youthful away side. The match was arranged to raise money for Thai athletes with disabilities. The teams wore numbers in Thai meaning identification was nigh on impossible to me.
Into a strong breeze, MTU played lots of incredibly tight passing football in their own area but kept their opponents at bay who went close when a header went narrowly wide. On the break Muangthong looked dangerous, with away goalie and skipper Warut Makmusik receiving a yellow card for handling outside the box.
It seemed a charitable decision from the ref, fitting of the occasion, but Makmusik was to face real punishment when he dallied on the ball outside the area and was dispossessed as Sarayuth Yusujujae fired into the empty net when the ball fell to him on nineteen minutes.
Chances were exchanged at either end, as the keepers made saves before the interval. With the wind at their backs after the restart, MTU dominated. Poramat Artwilai doubled the lead eleven minutes after the break before Charoensak Wongkorn made it 3-0 a minute later.
Anon Amornlertsak grabbed one back for BU on seventy-six minutes, with a shot from Stefan Shepovich proving too strong for Makmusik in the closing stages to complete the scoring. A well-deserved victory, before my headaches began.
I love living in Thailand and the people, but just sometimes you could scream. I arrived a couple of hours before the game to find huge crowds outside the stadium. Next door to it, literally, ten yards away, is an indoor arena. It was staging a gig from the Korean girl band Aespa at the same time as the match.
Maybe 30 years ago I would have been in my element with the demographics of the thousands forming the audience who were being marshalled into the correct queues. It was quite orderly. However, it also meant that regular places for drinking had to be changed.
I met my mate Ian at Flann O'Brien's Irish Pub, part of the Impact exhibition centre nearby in what is still a huge growing development on former paddy fields in the north of the capital. It was chaos in the most un Irish pub ever, with long waiting times for a beer to arrive. I had fancied a Guinness or two until I saw it was the equivalent of £10.45 a pint.
A good natter with gents who enrolled me into the MTU Foreign Legion Facebook group despite me cheering for bitter rivals Port, and then drinks under the motorway bridge, normally the domain of S Zone Ultras but on this occasion selling snacks and tacky souvenirs of the performing girls came before the game.
The last time at the Thunder Dome I made friends with two locals who could see I was sitting on my hands at the Port match where away fans are officially banned and looked after me. I met one again behind the stand for more drinks with the N Zone gang who were as friendly as ever.
My seat was officially 100 Baht (£2.27) with an extra 30 Baht going to charity. The seat over the railing was 180 for the same view, while the small cans outside were 40 Baht. I’m sure the accountants among you can see where I will sit from now on. That is if I did venture back up that way for a while.
I loved going to the stadium, the ambience, the way the hosts played, and meeting some great people. But getting away without owning transport is a nightmare. Every time it’s an issue finding a taxi or one that will put its metre on. This time they took full advantage knowing full well an affluent crowd of young women at a concert would pay whatever to get home. Not this Yorkshireman though.
In the end, I walked to the bus depot and caught a service a couple of miles before flagging down a willing taxi. I got home over two hours after full-time. We live sixteen miles away. Hopefully, the sky train will be up and running in a couple of years.
Muangthong United 1 Port FC 3 (Monday 28th August 2023) Thai League 1 (att: 5,123)
The Viabus app proved to provide excellent information for this Monday night visit following some under sixteens football at Supachalasi Stadium in the Thailand Prime Ministers Cup, ensuring I would reach Muang Thong Thani well ahead of my estimated time of arrival.
I knew that I could catch the number 166 bus, but it took around two hours, even longer in the rush hour traffic. Therefore, I was delighted to discover the number 86 minivan went to Impact Arena via the expressway and only cost 35 baht. It took just over half an hour before being deposited on the first floor of the Cosmo Bazaar.
A mall with lots of famous options to eat as well as a local food court, it stands beside a large retail park. Some of it was new to me and was continuing to develop. I considered that there would be far worse places to live in the capital.
With over two hours before kickoff after obtaining my ticket and a programme, I was approached by a couple of fellas in MTU polo’s and recording equipment. They wanted a farang’s view of the game for their channel. Now, usually, there would be no problem with this. I’ve done it before at amateur games. However, the MTU v Port game is vastly different.
I about got away with saying I hoped football would be the winner in a 3-3 draw. I turned the tables by interviewing the two guys for A Thai Football Podcast, which I co-hosted. Pre-match beers with the ex-pats were enjoyed under the tollway with a great atmosphere building.
The hosts with just one point from their first two games were being orchestrated by head coach Mario Gjurovski who has some incredible dress sense. For this encounter, he was in a bright orange suit with white trainers. By full-time he looked like a deflated space hopper.
Port took the lead when Hamilton, labelled “The Brazilian Andy Carroll” flicked on a header from a long free kick from keeper Somporn Yos. Fellow samba star Barros Tardeli flicked it past onrushing inexperienced goalie Soponwit Rakyart before putting the ball into the gaping net. Real route one stuff as I did well to remember to sit on my hands.
Home striker Stefan Šćepović tried to chip Somporn when in a decent position to the dismay of the crowd and teammate Willian Popp who had his head in his hands. Early days, but the Serbian looked a dud. MTU continued to look good going forward but vulnerable at the back as the pressure increased with Popp seeing a good effort turned around the post.
Just before the break, I think referee Sivakorn Pu-Udom got a call very wrong, or at least the man on the VAR desk didn’t help him. Tardeli was first to a ball a few yards outside the box with keeper Soponwit wiping him out midair when not even looking at the ball.
The ref gave a free kick to MTU when the custodian could well have seen red for the challenge. Astonishingly, the VAR team were not interested. It baffled me as you will notice in the video report below which I compiled as the action commenced for A Thai Football Podcast.
At the break, I mentioned that there would be more goals and Port would catch them on the break. However, nobody was quite ready for the VAR team to call back play ten minutes after the restart. They asked the ref to check a challenge from Suphanan Bureerat into the back of Kannarin Thawornsak which saw him go down.
Hardly anyone had appealed, and the play had continued for a minute, but the official changed his decision and pointed to the spot. Coach Mario played Popp, for those of you old enough, as the Brazilian talisman scored easily from the resultant penalty.
Port teams of the past would have crumbled or pressed the self-ignite button, but this bunch was made of sterner stuff. Another Brazilian, Negueba, took control of midfield. He looked like a Rolls Royce of a player, calm and collected but with a physical presence.
The boys from Khlong Toei regained the lead when Bordin Phala fed Hamilton on the edge of the box who fired across the keeper into the corner after an initial touch. After that, it could have been any score as Port tore the hosts asunder.
The home fans didn’t get nasty and appreciated that their team were being undone, with purring and oo’s replacing any boos that are sometimes forthcoming in such situations.
Pathompol Charoenrattanapirom missed a couple of decent chances, while the home team left back Picha Autra in the second half after Mario changed formation didn’t know what day it was.
The third goal came in stoppage time and was initially ruled out for offside, though I knew immediately it would be overruled and given. Negueba played a smart one-two with Bordin to beat the high line before rolling square for Teerasak Poeiphimai to score.
It was most enjoyable. A perfect day, rounded off by managing to get a taxi on an app straight away and head home for a lovely can of Thai-brewed hoppy ale before bed.
.png)
