Panyee FC

Panyee FC is a club like many others in Thailand that plays matches between themselves and has a strong community ethos. The big difference at Panyee is that the ground is on a small island built over the sea with a small pitch floating on the water.

Ko Panyee is an island formed and built on stilts by immigrant Javanese fishermen on the sea in Phang Nga province in southern Thailand. The island has an active life, with fishing still playing a huge part, along with tourism as thousands head there by boat to see what it’s all about.

Naturally enough, the youngsters of the island wanted activities. Because there wasn’t enough room on the island for a football pitch, it was built on a floating platform on the ocean. The vista is dominated by a stunning huge vertical limestone cliff shadowing the population of around 1,600 people living mainly in shacks.

Those wanting to play football previously would wait for just a couple of months when the tide was low enough. The fishermen decided to build a ground for the youth to play on using fish cages that were covered by wooden planks. However, the nails and planks were prone to movement and despite maintenance were not ideal.

Floating pontoons, rubber and reinforced plastic form the current pitch which has had more than one location. It is now beyond the local school and mosque on the western side of the island.

Tournaments are held for youngsters between the ages of 7 and 18, with Panyee FC often competing in national competitions and becoming one of the best youth sides in the south of Thailand.

My visit

Thursday 9th January 2025

The tour of Thailand I was on with my wife after leaving her cousin and his family back in Hat Yai had been amazing. Taew for some reason wanted to visit Phang Nga, which I associated with the coast and seaside resorts.

However, there was much more to the province that she had in her mind and gradually returned to my memory bank once she showed me images of Ko Panyee once again. So, with that in mind, we booked two nights in Phang Nga town.

The initial plan was to find somewhere offering a tour including the island, at least that’s what I thought was the best option having done an island-hopping tour of Phi Phi the day before. But my good lady wasn’t keen. Not that there was to be a tour operator to be found anywhere anyway.

She quizzed the staff at the restaurant where we dined on Wednesday evening and they seemed to think that we could catch a bus to the pier where the boat would take us to Ko Panyee, but they weren’t sure.

The receptionist at the TP Place Hotel was more helpful, telling Taew that she could get us a songthaew to take us to the pier. So, that’s what we did. The gent arrived and apologised that his vehicle was on another job, but he’d take us in his car.

The pair of Thais nattered away in good nature with my good lady taking on information from the knowledgeable local. He dropped us off and after a short wait, we were ushered onto a boat where a western tourist was already sitting.

By this point, I had been on my phone and the penny had dropped that I indeed did remember the island from previous chats, and a friend sending me images and an article about the astonishing floating football pitch. Now I was even happier.

It transpired he had paid for a private tour, but we were going to be dropped off on the way. The views in Phang Nga Bay were breathtaking, not least the approach to the island. Once on the jetty and in the village on stilts, we decided to explore.

Over 3,000 tourists flock to the island every day, so naturally enough there are lots of souvenir shops and places to eat and drink. At the end of each narrow path, all under shelter, another incredible view appeared and more photo opportunities.

The locals have seen it all before, but for the first timer, it was truly astonishing. Signs led us to where the football pitch presumably was anchored previously. Eventually, we caught sight of it when visiting the school, before following the path past the mosque.

Perhaps some funding had been acquired, as it was in great condition with high netting all around it. Loose shots would still mean the offender having to swim to fetch the ball back. It was a strange sensation, and I could imagine tricky at first getting used to playing on something constantly moving, be it ever so gently on this occasion.

Judging by the murals that we saw, there is no shortage of love for football, with like in a lot of Thailand, Liverpool being the club most cheer for. Oh, to come across street art depicting a local side occasionally.

Our wonderful visit was rounded off by eating fresh crab in a small restaurant where chatty old girls made sure everything was OK while sorting us a boat service back to the pier to meet up with our driver who Taew phoned. It was that sort of day and place. The people were wonderful.