An Independent Exploration of the Grounds, Clubs, Culture and Stories of Thai Football
Wednesday, 22 January 2025
Panyee FC
All About Panyee FC, a football ground and community club like no other.
Panyee FC is
an example of many others in Thailand that play matches against each other and have a strong community ethos. The big difference at Panyee is that the ground is on
a small island built over the sea, with a small pitch floating on the water.
Unique Venue
Ko Panyee is
an island formed and built on stilts by immigrant Javanese fishermen on the sea
in Phang Nga province in southern Thailand. The island has an active life, with
fishing still playing a huge part, along with tourism, as thousands head there
by boat to see what it’s all about.
The youngsters of the island wanted
activities. However, there wasn’t enough room on the island for a football
pitch, so one was built on a floating platform on the ocean. The view is dominated by a stunning, huge vertical
limestone cliff, shadowing the population of around 1,600 people living mainly in
shacks.
Previously, it required a couple of
months' wait before the tide was low enough so they could play on the sand. The fishermen built a ground for the youth
to play on using fish cages that were covered by wooden planks. The
nails and planks were prone to movement and were not ideal, despite regular maintenance.
The current pitch is made of floating pontoons, rubber and reinforced plastic, which can be moved around the island. On my visit, it was by the
local school and mosque on the western side of the island.
Youth tournaments for those between the ages
of 7 and 18 are staged, with Panyee FC often competing in national competitions, going on to become one of the best youth sides in the south of Thailand.
My visit
Thursday 9th January 2025
Why Panyee Island?
My wife and I were gradually heading back to Bangkok with many stops along the way after we had left her cousin and his family back in Hat Yai. Taew, for
some reason, wanted to visit Phang Nga as part of our itinerary, which I associated with the coast and
seaside resorts.
However, she knew that there was much more to the province. I remembered it once she showed me
images of Ko Panyee once again. I didn't need any persuasion to book two nights in
Phang Nga town.
Planning Our Trip
Our plan was to find somewhere offering a tour
of the island. I thought it was the best option, having
done an island-hopping tour of Phi Phi the day before. But my good lady wasn’t
keen. Not that there was to be a tour operator to be found anywhere anyway.
She quizzed the staff at the restaurant where we dined
on Wednesday evening, and they seemed to think that we could catch a bus to the pier
where the boat would take us to Ko Panyee, but they weren’t sure.
Helpful Locals
The receptionist at the TP Place Hotel was more
helpful, telling Taew that she could get us a songthaew to take us to the pier.
So, that’s what we did. Our driver arrived and apologised that his vehicle was on
another job, but he’d take us in his car.
The pair of Thais nattered away happily, with Taew grabbing information from the knowledgeable local. He dropped us off, and after a short wait, we were ushered onto a boat where a Western tourist was
already sitting.
The Penny Drops
I had been on my phone. I remembered the island from our previous chats, as well as an online converation online with a
friend who sent me images and an article about the astonishing floating football
pitch. I was really looking forward to seeing it in real life.
We shared a boat with a man who had paid for a private tour. We were going to be dropped off on the way. The views in Phang Nga Bay were
breathtaking, not least the approach to the island. Once on the jetty and in
the village on stilts, it was time to explore.
Busy Destination
Over 3,000 tourists flock to the island every day, so
naturally enough, there were lots of souvenir shops and places to eat and drink. At
the end of each narrow path, all under shelter, another incredible view
appeared and more photo opportunities.
The locals may have seen it all before, but for the first
timer, it was truly astonishing. Signs led us to where the football pitch was located. However, it wasn't there. Eventually, we saw it when we reached the
school, before following the path past the mosque.
Swimming to Retrieve the Ball
The pitch was in great
condition with high netting all around it. It still meant that loose shots would still mean the
offender having to swim to fetch the ball back. It was a strange sensation, and
I could imagine it being tricky getting used to playing on something constantly
moving. Thankfully, it swayed gently on this occasion.
By the look of the murals that we saw, there was plenty of love for football, with Liverpool being the club most cheered for. I'd love to see street art supporting a local side occasionally.
A Perfect Ending
We rounded off our wonderful visit by eating fresh
crab in a small restaurant where chatty old girls made sure everything was OK. The sorted us a boat service back to the pier to meet up with our driver. It was that sort of day and place. The people couldn't have been nicer.
I even got to visit another wonderfully scenic football ground when we were on the way back to our hotel before we relaxed and got ready to head further north the following day.
If you have enjoyed reading this article, you might wish to visit my YouTube Channel, where there are numerous homemade Thai football videos, as well as a wide range of content covering all aspects of life in the Land of Smiles, including the one above in which we visited Panyee and Phang Nga on a tour of Thailand and Laos.
You might also like to get hold of a copy of my book, which covers the adventure, along with dealing with the language barrier and understanding Thai culture. It is available in paperback and on Kindle.
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Many thanks for your comments. They are greatly appreciated.