An Independent Exploration of the Grounds, Stadiums, Culture and Stories Surrounding Thai Football
Thai Football Fever is an independent archive of football grounds, clubs and matchday experiences from across Thailand.
Since going to my first game in Thailand in 2010, I've travelled the country watching football at every level, documenting each visit with my own photographs, research and first-hand experiences.
Whether you're planning a football trip, researching a club or simply interested in the Thai game, I hope this growing collection helps you discover another side of football in Thailand.
Wednesday, 9 October 2024
Dome FC
Dome FC
Ground: Thammasat Stadium
Capacity: 25,000
Club Founded: 2014
League: University Competition (current level)
Dome FC, a club representing Thammasat University, spent two spells in the Thai League before reverting to university football because of the costs of being a professional club.
Club Background
The club name comes from the Dome, the symbolic building in Rangsit. It was also the original building on the Tha Phra Chan campus, by the Chao Phraya River, close to the Royal Palace in the centre of Bangkok.
The football club initially competed in the KhÇ’r Cup, from which they were promoted to the Regional League Division 2 Bangkok Region for the 2015 season. When the Thai league system was restructured, a fourth tier was added, with Dome being placed in Thai League 4 Bangkok, where Rachanon Srinok scored regularly under head coach Worraphan Tunton.
However, the 2018 campaign saw Dome finish eleventh, which ended in relegation to the Thailand Amateur League. Only two matches were completed before it was abandoned because of the outbreak of the Coronavirus pandemic. The competition did not take place for two years. In 2022, Dome finished top of the Bangkok Perimeter Group B.
They were eliminated in the first knockout stage on penalties by Samutsakhon City, who went on to win promotion to Thai League 3. Prateep Senala led the side to the Bangkok title of the Thai Semi-Pro League in 2024, heralding a return to national football
Action in the Semi-Pro Final of 2024 at Bangkok University Stadium
The season campaign saw home games played at the Rajamangala University of Technology Thanyaburi Stadium and Bangkok University Stadium, which was chosen to host Thai League 3 football in 2024-25. After a return to Thammasat Stadium for the final few games, Dome narrowly avoided relegation.
However, the club decided to resign from the league owing to the financial costs involved and instead concentrate on playing in University competitions
My visits
At Thammasat Stadium
Dome 1 BCG 3
Thai League 4 Bangkok - Monday 18th June 2018
👨👨👧👧 109 🎟️ 50 THB (£1.20)
Fun in the Sun
Sometimes my adventures while pursuing my hobby don’t work out as I expect. This day out definitely fell into this category.
I was entering the second half of a tremendous holiday in Bangkok and Isaan. Everything had more or less fallen into place, much to my surprise. I could see no warning signs of the cockup that was approaching as I left Steve’s house in Minburi on another lovely morning.
Planning a Long Day
I had my backpack with me, planning to head straight to Don Muang Airport after the match. I intended to watch Rangsit University against Port B in the Thai League 4 Bangkok Region.
The website said it was a 4pm kick-off when I had last checked. I took local transport down to Bangkapi to meet Steve for coffee in the Mall, where my mate asked if I’d checked that the match was definitely going ahead.
Everything in Hand?
I laughed at him. “Of course it is”, I replied. We said our goodbyes until the following Saturday, when we’d be enjoying the final few hours of my trip, as I headed to take the Saen Saep Ferry downtown. I alighted from the packed service at Asok before heading to Phetchaburi underground station.
I planned to get close to Rangsit University by public transport, without using taxis, unless absolutely necessary. I should have stuck to my plan. I intended to catch a bus at Chatuchak, but I thought I’d save time by jumping out at Phahon Yothin.
Land of Confusion
I’d been past this stop before when I travelled to an Air Force game. What I hadn’t realised was that I was on a different road from the one I required for this present journey. I ended up walking and got lost several times around the Central Plaza Ladprao.
My spare iPhone's battery ran out quicker than I could use it. I was in a bit of a quandary until I worked out I needed to cut through the Mall and out of the far side of the Centara Grand Hotel to the main Don Muang Road.
Travel Trouble
Eventually, I found a bus stop where services were going north. I wanted to catch a bus past the airport and then commandeer a taxi the rest of the way, as the university wasn't served. Everything worked fine. I bought some much-needed refreshments at the 7-Eleven by Don Muang railway station and then hailed a cab. I thought the hard work was over. How little I knew!
My driver thought I knew exactly where to go, which I thought I did. He was expecting to drop me off at a condo. He didn’t understand my exact destination. For the next twenty minutes, we went up and down the main road, missing turns, and I called it wrong.
Finally...
Finally, we were on track, and I expected the left turn down Thanon Ek Thaksin to be a simple enough ride to the university. The Skytrain was being developed along the route, and we saw Lak Hok station ahead, nearing readiness for the new service. All seemed good. However, I didn't realise the road we needed was a flyover above us, with no access.
We tried further turn-offs without success, then took a U-turn and returned south of the station. My driver still somehow found the strength to smile. After what seemed like ages, we turned down a small soi. We had to pay a man a toll to cross the khlong, before turning right onto Thanon Ek Thaksin.
Nearly There
My pilot was still unconvinced, driving me along an interesting road with plenty of places selling food, drink, and offering alternative ways to relax. It had definitely been easier on my previous visit.
Going past the entrance to Muang Ake Golf Club, we soon turned into the grounds of Rangsit University. I alighted close to the small stadium and paid up. I think the driver was glad to be shot of me, even if he had taken a good fare.
What, No Match?
Immediately, I realised my test of endurance was far from over. From what I could see through the trees, no players were on the pitch. Perhaps they were in the tunnel, ready to come out for the match before kick-off time?
The stand was virtually empty, with just three or four students and a drum. I knew that fourth-division games were sparsely attended, but surely the under-23 Port side would attract a few more than this?
24-Hours Late
Trying to believe I had the right location and time didn't work. No team coaches were behind the stand, and no desk to take admission money. I went to the front to see the scoreboard on the far side, which was displaying a 3-1 score.
The match had already taken place. I later discovered that it had been played twenty-four hours previously. This was a virtual repeat of my visit to Lamphun Warriors. What an idiot!
Plan B
I now had to decide how to fill my time. I knew that Dome FC was playing at home at Thammasat. However, I was close to Don Muang Airport. I could eat food and drink at the airport. After all, I’d already seen a game before at Thammasat.
Within a few minutes, a taxi driver was taking me further north. I thought that with a bit of luck, I’d only miss the first half hour. My man did a cracking job, even if it took longer than I’d envisaged.
Game On!
We went what I thought was a long way, but I was in no position to ask questions after my calamitous efforts. I worried when we hit the countryside, but my driver was bang on the button. He dropped me right outside the main stand entrance.
Team buses were outside, so at least I knew the game was on. I thought it a bit unusual as I dashed through an open gate, up the steps, and into the stand. Usually, someone takes an admission fee. Maybe I was destined to get a freebie after arriving late?
From Late to Early
On the contrary, again, there were no players on the pitch, but lots of training cones and footballs. The scoreboard displayed the team names and crests. I managed to charge my local phone and found it was a 6pm kick-off. I was eighty minutes early!
At least I could fully charge my phones in the press area. I wandered around the deserted stadium and took photos. Dome were up against BGC, the under-23 outfit of neighbours Bangkok Glass, whose first team I’d seen at home the previous evening.
What are you Doing Here?
Some omitted players sat and smiled at me, wondering what a foreigner in a tight-fitting Port FC shirt was doing at a Division 4 game out of the city. I’d have loved to explain in Thai, but there again, it was nice to leave them in suspense.
The 6pm kick-off meant I’d only see the first half before heading to the airport for my flight to Udon Thani. Around thirty minutes before kick-off, I went back downstairs and bought a ticket.
Room to Spread
The official attendance figure put on the league website was generous. We certainly rattled around in the 25,000-capacity Thammasat Stadium.
The Glass youngsters had vocal backing from one fan at the front, who was soon joined by a mate who bellowed out all the supporters’ songs and chants. Fair play to them.
The Match
BCG soon looked the better outfit of the two sides. Supazin Nhupichai made a fine save in the Dome goal before the visitors' Samroeng Hanchiaw saw a deflected shot go wide. Then his teammate Phattaraphon Jansuwan went on a fine driving run but was denied by a good block tackle.
BCG took the lead in the seventeenth minute from a half-cleared corner when Park Young Jin scored with a spectacular overhead kick on the bounce. The jubilant Glass fans duo tried to get the non-playing squad members to join in, which some did half-heartedly.
BCG were by far the better team, but the Dome students gave it their best, putting together a lovely move on twenty-five minutes as Surachai Thongta put in Teachadol Chuvilart, who blazed wide. The hosts pressed for an equaliser, but they struggled to finish.
In the thirty-third minute, Apipat Saingthong missed a great opportunity after BCG keeper Fahas Bilanglod had miskicked. He placed his shot wide. A huge storm was heading from the south as the half neared its conclusion. That was all I needed. It would have been typical of the day!
Airport Confusion
As the whistle sounded, I went outside the campus, and after a few minutes I managed to hail a taxi as the rain began to fall. I would later discover that Phongsakorn Srevaurai had put BGC further ahead before Polpong Pongsuwan reduced the arrears. Panut Sakonsathian's goal three minutes from full time made it 3-1 to the visitors.
To add to the drama, the driver was ready to head to Suvarnabhumi until I put him right. I grabbed some food at the airport. I fell asleep on my flight. It wasn’t until we got out at Udon Thani that I realised just how much I’d sweated. I certainly received a few glances!
Monday Night in Udon
It had been a fantastic day despite all the things that I’d called wrong. It continued after I checked into my room. I had a few beers in the brilliant nightlife area before finding a vibrant late-night establishment to watch England defeat Tunisia with a last-minute goal in the World Cup. I certainly didn’t need any rocking to sleep! At Bangkok University Stadium
Dome FC 1 Roi-Et PB United 2 - agg: 2-6
Thai Semi-Pro League Final Second Leg - Sunday 9th June 2024
👨👨👧👧 c750 🎟️ Free
Matchday Travel
My mate, Marco and I met up after a train ride at Yæk Kor Por Aor, one stop before the terminus on the light green line BTS Skytrain after I set off from Minburi. We then took a bus to Zeer Rangsit, where we alighted for lunch and some shopping.
From there, we took another smoke-belching, rickety old bus for 8 THB to the campus gates. It was a twenty-minute walk through the grounds to the venue. The campus, like most Thai educational establishments, was very impressive, with various cafes and convenience stores along the way.
Match Build-Up
With both sides already promoted to T3 for the next season, this was an occasion to see who would become the overall champion and lift the trophy. It obviously meant a lot to the visitors from six hours away as they had at least 80% of the support, though one suspects many were of the Bangkok diaspora.
Bangkok University Stadium once hosted top-flight football, as the university side won the league title before morphing into Bangkok United. It has a decent raised stand and low cover, which would never satisfy UK H&S requirements. A disused track surrounded the pitch.
The Match
The first leg a week earlier saw Roi Et win 4-1. This time, we saw a tight first thirty minutes, with Dome employing curious tactics. Perhaps worried about being picked off on the break by an excellent Roi Et side. Just before the ref signalled for a drinks break, the hosts should have gone ahead as the visitors’ defence was caught napping.
Peerapat Kantha, who had a fine first leg, blazed over from ten yards. This seemed to awaken Roi-Et from their slumbers as they took the initiative. A shot came back off the bar before they went ahead in first-half stoppage time. Keeper Atituch Chankar pushed an effort around the post.
However, from the resulting corner, Suphakrit Dongohan scored despite the best efforts of a defender on the line who could only head into his own net. We wandered to the far side for the second half, along with the more vocal of the away support.
At half-time, it was interesting to note that only Roi-Et had set up a merchandise stall behind the stand and was selling plenty of shirts. The only refreshments were from a vending machine. Twelve minutes after the restart, the tie was all but over.
Halftime sub Saichon Magmesoog got lucky. His speculative effort was destined for the corner flag but smacked the head of a Dome defender and flew past the wrong-footed Atituch. It would have been easy for the home side to fall apart, but to their credit, they battled.
Their consolation came seven minutes later when Ratchanon Thisawet stabbed home from close range. They huffed and puffed without troubling the visiting defence. Roi-Et easily saw the game out to take the spoils.
A feature of the outing was bumping into a Thai chap who supports Kasetsart and wore a jacket full of Thai club badges, like the sort a German fan might wear, only his was made of lighter material than denim. His cap also contained many pin badges.
I’m pretty sure he was unique in Thailand. I'd earlier spotted him at an Amateur League game at Airport Stadium in 2022. Our match finished at 6pm, after which we caught a bus directly back to the station to enjoy the delights of Save One Go Market.
Open daily from 4 pm to midnight, it offers a huge array of street food and some more substantial offerings. You can eat food bought around the market in the Chang beer garden, as we did to round off a top day before the train home.
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