My 2,200km Thai Adventure by Public Transport

Being able to take off to new places without worrying about others is one of my greatest indulgences. I get immense pleasure from exploring, chatting, eating, drinking and, ideally, ending up watching football of any standard.

I’ve done it many times in the UK and mainland Europe. Until September 2026, I’d only done one tour longer than a weekend in Thailand. It was time to put things right.

The rainy season lasts much longer than many people even consider. It seemed to have dragged on longer than ever in our part of the rural northeast. It affected my mood, as did the situation described in Sisaket Stadium Shambles. I was desperate to smile again and fall back in love with where I lived.

On My Way from Kanthararom

Time for a Solo Adventure

Since January 2023, I hadn’t spent a night alone. Not that it upset me, because I love my wife dearly. But something had to give. I needed an adventure. Something slightly risky, on a budget, where I had to fend for myself.

Lo and behold, without me realising it, the football fixtures came up trumps.

I found fixtures over five days at stadiums I hadn’t seen games at, and all were connectable by public transport. My good lady couldn’t have been more supportive and was perhaps looking forward to some time to herself. So that was it. It was time to start planning.

Planning Public Transport in Thailand

Although Thai public transport is relatively cheap, it can be slow, with large distances between towns. Many towns don’t have railway stations, meaning buses are the best option. Finding information about bus services isn’t easy, as many websites are in Thai and don’t appear in search engines.

While I enjoy researching, it takes time and can be frustrating. ChatGPT became my friend. The AI tool gave me the names of companies running buses between towns. I looked up the websites, using Google Translate where necessary. Some allowed online advance bookings. I used Agoda to book hotels and my State Railway of Thailand online account to book my train ticket.

Memories came flooding back as I decided what to fit into my backpack. It became a joint operation, as my wife wanted to make sure I didn’t leave home without anything. I could only imagine how her son felt attending his first day at school or when he joined the army.

So, with enough clean clothes to last six days, toiletries, chargers, my Amazon Fire, EarPods and local food, I boarded the 6.08 train from Kanthararom on Wednesday 16th September, excited for what lay ahead.

Budgeting is Fine – To a Degree

Within the first few minutes of the seven-hour journey, I realised I had made my first mistake. To save cash, I paid 231 THB (I’ve used 44 THB to £1 throughout this article) for a third-class seat with a fan and the windows wound down. For double that, I could have had a reclining seat with air conditioning.

Nevertheless, it was an interesting experience. Legroom was negligible, and I was fortunate that nobody sat opposite. Vendors got on and off throughout the journey, selling their wares at fair prices rather than hiking them like in the extortionate buffet cars on Western services.

The journey meandered through mountains and alongside the new high-speed line under construction, which will eventually connect Singapore with China, running through Thailand.

While it was interesting, I was delighted to alight in Ayutthaya, commandeer a Grab taxi and catch the bus to Chainat, a couple of hours away.

Wat Pathom Thetsanarayanwasi - Chainat

Welcome to Chainat

The total trip took 11 hours from home. When I arrived, I took a tuk-tuk past the market and to the Chao Phraya River to see some of the town. It’s not very big, but everyone I met was extremely friendly.

A local politician owned the local football club, Chainat Hornbill, spending a few seasons in the top division.

I booked a hotel for 550 THB, a 10-minute walk from Khao Plong Stadium, which is located well out of town. When it came to hotel rooms, I wasn’t too worried about luxury, but it had to be clean, safe, have a bathroom and Wi-Fi. This one fit the bill perfectly.

The match was nothing much to write home about and ended 0-0. That wasn’t a problem because going to football matters far more than the 90 minutes or so of action. I consider the overall experience more important, like the people you meet, the atmosphere, and the food and drink. Chainat did OK.

Chainat Town Centre

A young lady had stopped me on my walk to the stadium and offered me a ride on the back of her motorbike. The youngster selling tickets spoke perfect English and was charm personified. The ultras smiled and posed for pictures. All of which was superb for filming for my YouTube Channel trilogy capturing the adventure.

The following morning, I set off on foot to the bus station with neither taxi app responding. It was a long hike, so I was delighted when a tuk-tuk sounded its horn and stopped up the road.

Amazingly, it was the same driver from the day before, taking his grandson to high school.

As I boarded my bus to Bangkok, I recalled how many times that Thai kindness had helped me over the years, and everything would be alright if I freed my mind and wanted to have fun.

Onto Chanthaburi

I really fell for Chanthaburi on a previous overnight visit with my wife, yet I knew more fun was waiting if I “roughed” it for a few hours.

I got a perfect view after pre-booking the seat next to the driver, as he weaved through traffic leaving the capital. It wasn’t for the faint-hearted.

By the River in Chanthaburi Old Town

I chose to stay in the old town. My basic hotel had all my requirements, plus a spacious balcony overlooking the river if I wanted to relax. Not that there was time for such things.

I soon sat down to eat a few doors up with a riverside view before walking to the stadium through the bustling night market.

My aims when attending a football game were accommodated too. The atmosphere was great, and the locals were friendly. One of them, originally from Sisaket, wore his team’s shirt and gave me his Chanthaburi scarf after seeing me in my Sisaket United top.

The ultras were great for filming, especially as their team won 2-0.

My night was far from done, as I took a Grab to the majestic French Cathedral and then spent a couple of hours in a fantastic craft beer bar. The music was up my street, both piped and then later played by a live duet.

Me and My New Friend in Chanthaburi

The following morning, I saw the market from a different side as the town woke.

In hindsight, I wish I hadn’t booked a seat in the back corner of the small bus back to Bangkok. Every seat was taken, and space was at a premium. However, I made friends with a local chap in the same situation. He spoke to the driver and then let me know when the bus was about to leave after a comfort break.

Back to Ayutthaya

The Minibus Station at Mo Chit is one of Thailand’s hidden treasures to many backpackers. It doesn’t have a BTS or MRT directly serving it, so it takes effort to get to. Once you are there, it opens endless possibilities for budget travellers, serving anywhere within a four- to five-hour range of the capital.

Its slight downside, at least from my experience, is that it is quite random when you might leave. You go to an information desk and tell them where you want to go. They send you to one of the offices, with ticket desks inside waiting to sell tickets.

It’s noisy and quite an experience.

This time, they sent me to Office A for Ayutthaya. Once I announced my destination, they ushered me to a desk, sold me a ticket for 80 THB, and sent me straight outside to the minibus. Once the last couple of seats had been sold, we departed.

That seems to be how it works.

Rose Garden Hotel - Ayutthaya

This time I chose to stay in an area of Ayutthaya before you enter the old city. The minibus stopped, saving me a taxi fare back. My hotel was 600 THB.

I walked to one of the main temples near the stadium, had lunch and then took a siesta before returning for the match.

The hotel staff, the old ladies who made lunch, and the restaurant across the road where I had rice porridge for breakfast were friendly and helpful.

The football attracted nearly 4,000 spectators looking for Friday night entertainment. The first half was dull, but the second was full of talking points as Uthai Thani beat hosts Ayutthaya United 2-1.

After the game, I headed to an area marked on Google Maps as Balloon Ayutthaya Night Plaza. This area is alien to most Westerners, although Eastern tourists and businessmen seem familiar with it.

Friday Night in Ayutthaya

It has a plaza for those wanting food and drink, along with many establishments catering to those looking for adult fun.

I enjoyed the two bars I used, where the friendly staff and owners bemoaned the rainy season and their lack of customers. It was a pleasant way to socialise for a few hours, knowing my mileage was massively reduced the following day.

After a walk and filming around stunning Wat Mahathat and Wat Ratchaburana, it was time to discover another new town.

More New Friends in Suphanburi

Minibuses leave Ayutthaya from Naresuan Road. I found out that the 703 would take me to Suphanburi.

Again, timetables seemed as natural as walking to the moon.

The driver waited until he had enough passengers before setting off on a route that stopped at several villages while also playing the role of a parcel courier.

We paid the driver at our destination. I noted that my fare was 100 THB, while Thais paid 20 baht less.

Banharn-Jamsai Tower in Suphanburi

Because it was too early to check into my 600 THB hotel room, I dropped my backpack and walked around the city to see how it operated.

Suphanburi had three things going for it. It had a football club with an interesting backstory. I’d never been, and it had a tower, which I’m a real sucker for.

The surrounding gardens were pristine, and the lift to the top was well worth 30 THB. I continued to the Tha Chin River and market area.

I had lunch at a tasty noodle shop opposite Wat Phra Rup before returning to my hotel for a siesta. The young man at reception turned on my AC while I was out so I could relax after my exercise, which I thought was a nice touch.

I ordered a Grab to another stadium located out of town for the match. For a short spell, Suphanburi were one of Thai football’s leading lights until the sponsors pulled out, and they now play in the third tier.

Locals still get behind the club, which offered free admission. I reckon at least 70% wore the new replica team shirts.

Food and drink options were limited, and even less so because of the large crowd who wanted to buy outside one of Thailand’s better arenas.

I found a seat in the covered stand next to a friendly chap who spoke a bit of English, while all around me were welcoming and slightly bewildered by my presence.

Sadly, the game didn’t live up to the occasion. The ref took the teams off for an hour a few minutes into the second half because of thunder and lightning, accompanied by heavy rain.

A tragedy a few months earlier in southern Thailand had seen a player killed by lightning, so stricter regulations were now in force.

By the Tha Chin River in Suphanburi

Thankfully, I managed to commandeer a Bolt ride back into town. I was slightly surprised it was the same man who had earlier driven for Grab, before changing apps to pick up a more expensive fare.

Who could blame him in that weather?

I returned to my room for an early night.

Back to Bangkok and a Great Day Out

My 8 am departure to the capital cost 120 THB and took around two hours.

In Bangkok, I took advantage of the feature all returning minibuses offer when I alighted at Mo Chit BTS station, with an interchange with Chatuchak MRT. This allowed me to take the underground train and drop my backpack at my hotel.

My room seemed like extremely good value when I booked it, costing only 520 THB. I soon found out why.

I’d booked a shared pod with another person. The Agoda website didn’t state that. The excellent receptionist helped me pay an additional 500 THB to upgrade to a single room.

While one of the priorities of my adventure was to reconnect with Thailand, it is also important not to be remote and to enjoy occasional familiarity.

The Red Lion on Sukhumvit 13 provided this, where an English breakfast and a mug of Yorkshire tea did the job as I watched the sports news on TV.

Expats and tourists have Western bar options, but this place is the best value. I think of it as Wetherspoons with multiple TVs showing live sport.

Feeling energised, I took the BTS across the city to Wongwian Yai. When I alighted, I walked a further 10 minutes to the railway station with the same name.

Wongwian Yai Station

Wongwian Yai is a splendid little station, with lots of stalls and cafes on the platforms and adjacent street.

My destination was Maha Chai, the old name for Samut Sakhon, a busy fishing port near the Gulf of Thailand on the same Tha Chin River as Suphanburi.

The journey took around an hour, and my ticket cost 20 THB.

When we arrived in the vibrant town, I wandered through the bustling market before catching the ferry across the river. This was an experience, with passengers and motorbikes sharing the same area.

On the other side, I walked to Ban Laem station.

Trains depart from there to Mae Klong station in Samut Songkhram. The journey is captured on YouTube as the train travels through a busy market, and owners pull back the awnings protecting their stalls from the tracks.

Back across the river, I wandered around Samut Sakhon. It was impossible not to know what was being sold in the market from the smells and sight of the seafood.

Ferry Across the Tha Chin in Samut Sakhon

After eating at Nampu Plaza, a tuk-tuk took me to the football match at a university campus stadium that has truly seen better days.

Samut Sakhon City have made great strides since being promoted to Thai League 3, even reaching the FA Cup semi-final a few seasons back.

Their support was passionate on this occasion, with over 600 fans cheering them on to victory against Rajpracha. It was probably the most exciting game of my tour.

Thankfully, a Bolt driver saved me a 30-minute walk back to the station, dropping me at the market at full-time as rain clouds gathered. Indeed, rain fell heavily during the train ride back to Bangkok.

I returned to the Red Lion to enjoy 150 THB pints of Tiger while watching the Premier League football from back home and having a nice conversation with a fellow expat who’d lived in Thailand for many years.

It was great to exchange stories and chat naturally for a couple of hours. I certainly slept well at my hotel.

Homeward Bound

After a bit of panic, I managed to hail a taxi to take me to where my first-class coach was setting off to take me back to Sisaket.

I travelled with Nakhonchai Air, which serves northern and northeast Thailand.

My ticket cost 750 THB and included a roomy, comfortable seat (there are only 30 on the coach), a light meal, a packet of snacks, water, a couple of cartons of juice, a blanket and a cold napkin.

Unfortunately, the entertainment screen was faulty.

I chose the company because each seat had an automatic back-massage feature, which I used plentifully.

While we travelled, I reflected on how much fun I’d had, sometimes outside my comfort zone, but always finding a solution, often with the help of friendly Thais.

Monday Morning Rush Hour in Bangkok

I ate in restaurants I might have been reluctant to try in the past, learned about the places I visited, and got in some valuable exercise.

I was reminded I was no longer a youngster, and that the following morning after a few drinks can be hard work.

But most of all, I reconnected with Thailand and its people and replicated the joy I used to feel when heading off alone.

Listen to the Full Story

You can also listen to an account of my 2,200km tour on an episode of A Thai Football Podcast.

My Thai Lifestyle Blog, The Thai Adventures of Rob B, contains information, articles, and stories of my adventures around the Land of Smiles.

Samut Sakhon City

Samut Sakhon City FC

Ground: Thailand National Sports University Samut Sakhon Campus
Capacity: 2,000
Club Founded: 2022
League: Thai League 3 West (current level)

Other football clubs represented the coastal port before Samut Sakhon City took over the mantle and gradually progressed, pushing for promotion as a third-tier club.

A Potted Club History

The club was formed in 2022 to compete in the Thailand Amateur League in May and June of that year. The side won their Bangkok Perimeter group before defeating Dome FC, STK Muangnont, and FC Bang Sao Thong in the final to win promotion to Thai League 3.

In their debut season, ‘Sakhon Tigers’ were placed in T3 Bangkok, with home games played at Thonburi Stadium, where the team had won promotion. Yossagorn Silaket replaced Sarayuth Chaikamdee as head coach before being succeeded by Rungroj Tongthinphu.

The club's former crest

Meanwhile, neighbours Thawi Watthana Samut Sakhon United were relegated from T3 West, leaving City as the province’s sole club. This was after Samut Sakhon FC had been relegated from Thai League 2 in 2020-21 and folded. 

Bireme Diouf and Wellington Adão regularly scored for the team that finished third in its first two T3 seasons. Remarkably, City also reached the FA Cup semi-finals in 2023-24, defeating Chiangmai United and Bangkok FC on the way. They lost their last four tie 3-1 to Dragon Pathumwan Kanchanaburi.

Filipe Vasconcelos top-scored the following season after Samutsakhon transferred to T3 West, after moving to Thailand National Sports University Samut Sakhon Campus for a season, where they won the league but fell short in the playoffs. Both Yai Ninwong and Harnnarong Chunhakunakorn coached the team during the season.

In 2025-26, Kissakorn Krasaingoen was appointed head coach as the team retained their divisional title. Diogo Pereira was the top scorer.  Prasomporn Phupan took charge for the following season.

My visit

Samutsakhon City 3 Rajpracha 1
Thai League 3 West 
👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 658 🎟️ 70 THB 

My 6-day tour of Thailand had reached its penultimate day. Everything had gone according to plan, and I wanted to round off my football by watching a match at a fifth venue I'd not seen a game at. Samut Sakhon fitted the bill perfectly in several ways.

I was making a three-part video for my YouTube Channel featuring the adventure. I had visited Samut Sakhon a couple of times before and knew it was an interesting town to film, plus the football kicked off at 3.30, so I could still catch a train to Bangkok, rather than their previous 5pm starts, which made timings very tight.

I'd arrived in the capital on Sunday morning from Suphanburi. I'd watched matches in Chainat, Chanthaburi and Ayutthaya before that. The receptionist surprised me by asking me if I wanted an upper or lower bed when I left my backpack at my hotel next to Lat Phrao MRT station. I thought that the room was inexpensive for its location and quality. 

I didn't realise it was a shared pod. It cost me 500 THB to upgrade to a single room. Undeterred, I had an excellent value English breakfast at the Red Lion on Sukhumvit 13. Expats and tourists have Western bar options, but this place is the best value. I think of it as Wetherspoons with multiple TV’s showing live sport.

Feeling good, I took the BTS Skytrain from Nana to Wongwian Yai across the city and walked 10 minutes to the railway station with the same name. My ticket to Maha Chai cost 20 THB for the hour-long journey. The departure station was fascinating, with several stalls and cafes alongside the tracks.

The train was busy, with passengers thankfully alighting along the way. Maha Chai is Samut Sakhon's old name, which locals still use. I took the ferry across the river and walked to Ban Laem station, recalling my first of two previous visits.

I wanted to catch a train to Samut Songkhram from Ban Laem but got lost and confused and ended up on the bus. This time I decided to see if I could make the connection. I only just made it, but a couple from Singapore weren't so lucky. I would advise an earlier train to Samut Sakhon and a saunter to make the connection.

After wandering around Samut Sakhon and grabbing food, I needed to get to the Thailand National Sport University Samut Sakhon Campus Stadium. This was across the Maha Chai tributary. No app taxis responded, so I took a tuk-tuk and gave the driver 100 THB. 

My first impressions of the stadium were not good. It was frankly a tip. I paid 70 THB for my ticket. Away fans were being charged 50 baht more. From the steep-sided stand, the view was decent enough, even if slightly distant, with a dilapidated running track between us and the pitch. The sandpits for the long jump were being used as a rubbish dump.

The fans created a terrific atmosphere, which got louder when a second set of home ultras arrived. They wore the same T-shirts, which said they were celebrating their eighth anniversary. Either that was some time ago, or they should change their washing powder.

Yuto Yoshijama and Jaranin Promchaisee put the hosts 2-0 up within twenty-four minutes. Japanese defender Jaekyung Park was City’s standout player, with skipper Ratchapol Nawanno also looking accomplished. Alex Vajente and Edem Buenorty looked decent up front for Rajpracha. Aussie defender Riki Sheather put in a decent shift.

The referee let the game flow by being wise to tricks, which made it good to watch. A huge error by home goalie, Phacharathon Chalermitt, allowed Vajente to reduce the arrears before half-time, as the game hung in the balance. At the break, I had a walk and was impressed by the beer prices and the limited but interesting food options.

The visitors battled on, but Samut Sakhon had their fair share of chances. In one attack, they hit both the post and bar. Both sides gave it everything and the ref played his part. I enjoyed it thoroughly despite the shabby surroundings. They possibly added to it.

Thankfully, a Bolt driver saved me a 30-minute walk back to the station, depositing me by the market. Back in Bangkok, I returned to the Red Lion to enjoy 150 THB pints of Tiger and have a nice conversation with a fellow expat watching the Premier League matches before returning to my hotel.

You can listen to an account of my 2,200km tour on an episode of A Thai Football Podcast.

Suphanburi

 

Suphanburi FC
Ground: Suphan Buri Provincial Stadium
Capacity: 15,000
Club Founded: 1997
League: Thai League 3 West (current level)
 
Suphanburi FC had a spell as one of Thailand’s football big hitters before investment ran out and the club was left to rebuild, relying on its loyal fan base.

 
Suphanburi FC Club History
 
The Early Years
 
Formed in 1997, the War Elephants joined the Sports Authority of Thailand (SAT) run Thailand Provincial League the following year. They finished as runners-up in their debut season before becoming champions twice, which saw the club progress from the regional competition to play in the Thai Premier League (TPL) in 2006.
 
Despite being reprieved from relegation in their debut season, Suphanburi went down twelve months later. The team competed in the second tier, Thailand League Division 1, for four mediocre seasons before winning promotion in 2012 after Worrawoot Srimaka was appointed head coach and Pipat Thonkanya top-scored.

 
The Glory Years
 
Phayong Khunnaen led the team to fourth place in the TPL in 2013. Dragan Boškovic led the scoring in a talented side that defied the odds. They improved on that performance by finishing third a couple of seasons later under head coach Worrawoot Srimaka, when Sergio van Dijk finished as top scorer.
 
That meant that Suphanburi qualified for the 2016 AFC Champions League qualifying play-off rounds. However, because of AFC club-licensing requirements, the club was prevented from taking their place, as Suphan Buri Provincial Stadium failed to meet the criteria.

The Decline
 
Dellatorre scored regularly for a couple of seasons, as Suphanburi finished just below mid-table following the disappointment. Rômulo, Cleiton Silva, and Leandro Assumpção were the next forwards to excite the home crowd, while head coaches came and went regularly.
 
In 2021-22, the War Elephants lost in the FA Cup semi-final against Buriram United. Their cup form didn’t translate to the league, as the team was relegated despite Danilo Alves’s goals under Adebayo Gbadebo, who spent many years in various roles with the club.

Down to the Third Tier
 
Douglas Tardin’s goals helped the team reach the playoffs the following season in Thai League 2, but Uthai Thani proved too strong. Oege-Sietse van Lingen was outstanding when joining in the second leg of the 2024-25 season, but his efforts weren’t enough to save Suphanburi from relegation.
 
Bamrung Boonprom was appointed to coach the team in Thai League 3 West.

My visit

Suphanburi 0 Hua Hin City 0

Thai League 3 West 

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 3,275 🎟️ Free

Suphanburi was somewhere I'd wanted to visit for some time. I knew about its football history, and the town had a tower, ticking two boxes for me. I grabbed my chance to visit as part of a 6-day solo tour using public transport and to attend one of my five matches.

I'd already been to matches in Chainat and Chanthaburi before arriving in Ayutthaya for their match against Uthai Thani the night before. The fixtures were perfect, allowing me to visit venues where I hadn't seen games before. 

I caught a minibus on Naresuan Road in Ayutthaya. The rather convoluted route took nearly two hours and cost me 100 THB. I noticed that the driver charged Thais 20 baht less. Once we reached the Bus Terminal, it was too early to check into my hotel, so I left my backpack. 

This gave me a chance to explore the town on foot, with the tower being the main attraction. I was impressed with the immaculate gardens and the views from the top, which cost 30 THB. I continued through the market to the Tha Chin River and ate noodles after checking out Wat Phra Rup.

Despite being jaded, I walked back to the hotel, where the kind young fella at reception had already turned on my air con. After a siesta, I booked a Grab taxi to drop me at Suphanburi Stadium, several kilometres out of town. I was surprised at the size of the crowd outside.

The club was offering free admission, which was a welcome surprise. They had a big kit launch a few days earlier at a store in town. At least two-thirds of those at the game were wearing the replica shirt. It looked to me like the club was making a big effort to get Suphanburi back on the football map. 

I found a seat in the busy main stand next to a friendly chap who spoke a bit of English. The game was a damp squib; literally, as it went on. Suphanburi's Iranian centre forward, Mohammad Ousani, was involved in a battle royal with Hua Hin's Nigerian defender Richest Abuzor.

At half-time I walked around the far side to see if there were any other food stalls. Because of the large crowds, the vendors where I was were overrun. The kind couple sitting behind me kept an eye on my day bag, which I placed on my seat so no one sat in it before I came back. While I was away, it had begun to pour down.

Our seats weren't protected. The wind blew the rain in and the roof leaked. The couple, who were now sheltering at the back, had my bag. Within a few minutes, the ref took the teams off after thunder and lightning. A tragedy a few months earlier in southern Thailand had seen a player killed by lightning, so stricter regulations were now in force.

The weather brought out the mosquitoes. I was not alone scratching having come out without any repellent. It really became uncomfortable, and I considered leaving. Play resumed after nearly an hour's delay. Nothing much changed. Hua Hin defended well and used gamesmanship to see out the draw.

I couldn't get a Grab taxi. Fortunately, a Bolt driver came to the rescue. I went outside the complex to the main road where he was waiting. Lo and behold, it was the same man who also drove for Grab. He had changed apps to pick up a more expensive fare. I couldn't fault him.

While I always like to explore a new town after dark, I knew that I was up before 7am the next day. Instead of looking for a bar or restaurant, I bought snacks from 7-Eleven and went home to watch the superb Newcastle United v Hull City match on my Amazon Fire in my comfortable room.

The decision paid dividends in the morning. I woke up fresh and ready for the penultimate leg of my tour to Bangkok and Samut Sakhon.

You can listen to an account of my 2,200km tour on an episode of A Thai Football Podcast.

Chainat Hornbill

 

Chainat Hornbill FC

Ground: Khao Plong Stadium
Capacity: 9,000
Club Founded: 2009
League: Thai League 2 (current level)
 
Chainat Hornbill FC is an excellent example of a Thai club from a small provincial town punching above its weight, playing for several seasons in the top tier, and building an ideal stadium as they enjoyed their success.

 
Background of the Hornbills
 
Early Life
 
Former Thai politician Anucha Nakasai founded the club in 2009. The Hornbills were placed in the third-tier Division 2 North, where they performed creditably in their first three seasons. In 2010, they were promoted through the playoffs.
 
The following year, Chainat won a second successive promotion, when Phuwadol Suwannachart led the scoring charts under head coach Issara Sritaro. Surachai Jaturapattarapong replaced him, coaching the team that played in the Thai Premier League.

 
Joint FA Cup Winners
 
The Hornbills remained at the elite level and reached the FA Cup semi-finals in 2015, where Buriram United defeated them. Brazilian forward Alex was the top scorer before Florent Pongolle took over the mantle after the top tier was renamed Thai League 1.
 
This was while Dr. med. Björn Kliem coached the team. Chainat were declared FA Cup joint winners in 2016, following the death of King Bhumibol Adulyadej, which saw the competition abandoned before the semi-finals. The team was relegated at the end of the season.

 
The Dennis Amato Era
 
German Dennis Amato replaced his fellow countryman and led the Hornbills to the Thai League 2 title a season later. Drago Mamić had a brief spell in charge before Amato returned. Bernard Doumbia and Ricardo Santos scored the goals before the team was relegated in 2019.
 
The Thai League reverted to following the European football calendar in 2020-21. Several head coaches led the team in the following seasons. Sumeth Yooto had three spells at the helm.

 
Recent Seasons
 
Nakhon Pathom United ended Hornbills’ promotion dreams in the playoffs in the first season under the new scheduling. Lampang proved too strong at the same stage in the following season. Thanayut Jittabud led the scoring for two seasons as the side dropped down the table.
 
Pattani overcame Chainat in the 2025-26 playoff semi-finals.

My visit

Chainat Hornbill 0 Pattaya United 0

Thai League 2

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 1,211 🎟️ 100 THB 

The start of a 6-day, 2,200 km trip by public transport plus 56 km on foot. My journey began on the 6.08 am train from Kanthararom, my local station. As the tour was on a budget, I unwisely booked a third-class seat for the 7-hour journey to Ayutthaya. 

My legroom was worse than any stadium grandstand I’ve sat in. The fare was 231 THB. It was certainly interesting, with vendors getting on and off, and a dramatic ride through the mountains south of Nakhon Ratchasima. 

That said, I was delighted to alight, book a Grab and board the small bus with legroom for the 2-hour journey to Chainat, for 210 THB. This was after I found the right stop and before a local told me when my bus had stopped. Its signage was in Thai, which I cannot read. The total trip took 11 hours from home.

I decided to briefly check out the small town. A tuk-tuk took me to the banks of the Chao Phraya River past the night market. I booked a hotel for 550 THB, a 10-minute walk from Khao Plong Stadium, which is located well out of town. A Bolt taxi took me to my accommodation.

After checking in at the basic resort, I set off to the game starting at 6 pm. A young lady saw me walking and offered me a ride on the back of her motorbike. Tempted though I was, I declined, not wanting to look petrified on the back. Chainat seemed to be a town of friendly people.

This impression was reinforced by the young lady at the ticket office who spoke impeccable English. presumed I was an away fan and initially tried to charge me more. Probably because Pattaya have a large portion of expat fans, and I was wearing my Italia 90 England sky-blue top, the visitors' colours.

The small fans zone had a limited selection of snacks available. The small sausage balls I chose tasted unusual, while the breadcrumbed chicken on a stick was a tad overdone. A shame, as that's one of my favourite football snacks. That said, the prices were very fair, so kids could afford snacks.

I bought a bottle of beer that was poured into a small plastic bag, then put into a brown paper bag, and it cost 70 THB. I have no idea why. I was impressed by the stadium and how they converted an arena that previously had a running track into what they had now.

I think the crowd figure included season ticket holders and giveaways. I also think that it's madness that the league should arrange a 6 pm midweek kick-off. The crowd included a large party of schoolchildren, maybe 30 away fans, some of whom sounded European, and a couple of gaggles of home ultras trying to raise the atmosphere.

It was a poor game, with the hosts coming closest to breaking the deadlock on a couple of occasions. Both sides took too long passing and lost possession around the box. Varuth Wongsomsak in the Pattaya goal made a great save in stoppage time. Then Ousmane Badji missed a sitter with the goal gaping.

Chainat's sub, Elijah Douglas, looked as uninterested in the warm-ups as when he came on. Slow and unfit was my verdict. I also noted that the playing surface was immaculate, possibly helped by the drainage ditches outside the stadium.

After the match, I returned home to enjoy pre-packed cheese and crackers and my hip flask while I watched Yorkshire v Somerset on YouTube. What an amazing world we live in! I needed to be up at 5.30 am to catch my next bus.

Getting into town was always going to be a challenge. My Bolt driver from the previous evening wasn’t interested, and nobody was available on Grab. I set off walking, and miraculously a tuk-tuk stopped along the main road. It was the same bloke who took me to the riverside the night before when I arrived, and he was taking his grandson to high school. 

He dropped me there, giving me the chance to explore further. The bus station was further away than I imagined. A lone lady, a Pattaya fan whose husband lives in Chainat, was also waiting for the small bus to Bangkok. She bemoaned how bad her team was, but proved pleasant company.

Chainat Bus Company phoned to confirm my location. They soon arrived and took me to the Minibus Station at Mo Chit, with time to buy some snacks before I caught my next bus to Chanthaburi. 

You can listen to an account of my 2,200km tour on an episode of A Thai Football Podcast.