My 2,200km Thai Adventure by Public Transport

Being able to take off to new places without worrying about others is one of my greatest indulgences. I get immense pleasure from exploring, chatting, eating, drinking and, ideally, ending up watching football of any standard.

I’ve done it many times in the UK and mainland Europe. Until September 2026, I’d only done one tour longer than a weekend in Thailand. It was time to put things right.

The rainy season lasts much longer than many people even consider. It seemed to have dragged on longer than ever in our part of the rural northeast. It affected my mood, as did the situation described in Sisaket Stadium Shambles. I was desperate to smile again and fall back in love with where I lived.

On My Way from Kanthararom

Time for a Solo Adventure

Since January 2023, I hadn’t spent a night alone. Not that it upset me, because I love my wife dearly. But something had to give. I needed an adventure. Something slightly risky, on a budget, where I had to fend for myself.

Lo and behold, without me realising it, the football fixtures came up trumps.

I found fixtures over five days at stadiums I hadn’t seen games at, and all were connectable by public transport. My good lady couldn’t have been more supportive and was perhaps looking forward to some time to herself. So that was it. It was time to start planning.

Planning Public Transport in Thailand

Although Thai public transport is relatively cheap, it can be slow, with large distances between towns. Many towns don’t have railway stations, meaning buses are the best option. Finding information about bus services isn’t easy, as many websites are in Thai and don’t appear in search engines.

While I enjoy researching, it takes time and can be frustrating. ChatGPT became my friend. The AI tool gave me the names of companies running buses between towns. I looked up the websites, using Google Translate where necessary. Some allowed online advance bookings. I used Agoda to book hotels and my State Railway of Thailand online account to book my train ticket.

Memories came flooding back as I decided what to fit into my backpack. It became a joint operation, as my wife wanted to make sure I didn’t leave home without anything. I could only imagine how her son felt attending his first day at school or when he joined the army.

So, with enough clean clothes to last six days, toiletries, chargers, my Amazon Fire, EarPods and local food, I boarded the 6.08 train from Kanthararom on Wednesday 16th September, excited for what lay ahead.

Budgeting is Fine – To a Degree

Within the first few minutes of the seven-hour journey, I realised I had made my first mistake. To save cash, I paid 231 THB (I’ve used 44 THB to £1 throughout this article) for a third-class seat with a fan and the windows wound down. For double that, I could have had a reclining seat with air conditioning.

Nevertheless, it was an interesting experience. Legroom was negligible, and I was fortunate that nobody sat opposite. Vendors got on and off throughout the journey, selling their wares at fair prices rather than hiking them like in the extortionate buffet cars on Western services.

The journey meandered through mountains and alongside the new high-speed line under construction, which will eventually connect Singapore with China, running through Thailand.

While it was interesting, I was delighted to alight in Ayutthaya, commandeer a Grab taxi and catch the bus to Chainat, a couple of hours away.

Wat Pathom Thetsanarayanwasi - Chainat

Welcome to Chainat

The total trip took 11 hours from home. When I arrived, I took a tuk-tuk past the market and to the Chao Phraya River to see some of the town. It’s not very big, but everyone I met was extremely friendly.

A local politician owned the local football club, Chainat Hornbill, spending a few seasons in the top division.

I booked a hotel for 550 THB, a 10-minute walk from Khao Plong Stadium, which is located well out of town. When it came to hotel rooms, I wasn’t too worried about luxury, but it had to be clean, safe, have a bathroom and Wi-Fi. This one fit the bill perfectly.

The match was nothing much to write home about and ended 0-0. That wasn’t a problem because going to football matters far more than the 90 minutes or so of action. I consider the overall experience more important, like the people you meet, the atmosphere, and the food and drink. Chainat did OK.

Chainat Town Centre

A young lady had stopped me on my walk to the stadium and offered me a ride on the back of her motorbike. The youngster selling tickets spoke perfect English and was charm personified. The ultras smiled and posed for pictures. All of which was superb for filming for my YouTube Channel trilogy capturing the adventure.

The following morning, I set off on foot to the bus station with neither taxi app responding. It was a long hike, so I was delighted when a tuk-tuk sounded its horn and stopped up the road.

Amazingly, it was the same driver from the day before, taking his grandson to high school.

As I boarded my bus to Bangkok, I recalled how many times that Thai kindness had helped me over the years, and everything would be alright if I freed my mind and wanted to have fun.

Onto Chanthaburi

I really fell for Chanthaburi on a previous overnight visit with my wife, yet I knew more fun was waiting if I “roughed” it for a few hours.

I got a perfect view after pre-booking the seat next to the driver, as he weaved through traffic leaving the capital. It wasn’t for the faint-hearted.

By the River in Chanthaburi Old Town

I chose to stay in the old town. My basic hotel had all my requirements, plus a spacious balcony overlooking the river if I wanted to relax. Not that there was time for such things.

I soon sat down to eat a few doors up with a riverside view before walking to the stadium through the bustling night market.

My aims when attending a football game were accommodated too. The atmosphere was great, and the locals were friendly. One of them, originally from Sisaket, wore his team’s shirt and gave me his Chanthaburi scarf after seeing me in my Sisaket United top.

The ultras were great for filming, especially as their team won 2-0.

My night was far from done, as I took a Grab to the majestic French Cathedral and then spent a couple of hours in a fantastic craft beer bar. The music was up my street, both piped and then later played by a live duet.

Me and My New Friend in Chanthaburi

The following morning, I saw the market from a different side as the town woke.

In hindsight, I wish I hadn’t booked a seat in the back corner of the small bus back to Bangkok. Every seat was taken, and space was at a premium. However, I made friends with a local chap in the same situation. He spoke to the driver and then let me know when the bus was about to leave after a comfort break.

Back to Ayutthaya

The Minibus Station at Mo Chit is one of Thailand’s hidden treasures to many backpackers. It doesn’t have a BTS or MRT directly serving it, so it takes effort to get to. Once you are there, it opens endless possibilities for budget travellers, serving anywhere within a four- to five-hour range of the capital.

Its slight downside, at least from my experience, is that it is quite random when you might leave. You go to an information desk and tell them where you want to go. They send you to one of the offices, with ticket desks inside waiting to sell tickets.

It’s noisy and quite an experience.

This time, they sent me to Office A for Ayutthaya. Once I announced my destination, they ushered me to a desk, sold me a ticket for 80 THB, and sent me straight outside to the minibus. Once the last couple of seats had been sold, we departed.

That seems to be how it works.

Rose Garden Hotel - Ayutthaya

This time I chose to stay in an area of Ayutthaya before you enter the old city. The minibus stopped, saving me a taxi fare back. My hotel was 600 THB.

I walked to one of the main temples near the stadium, had lunch and then took a siesta before returning for the match.

The hotel staff, the old ladies who made lunch, and the restaurant across the road where I had rice porridge for breakfast were friendly and helpful.

The football attracted nearly 4,000 spectators looking for Friday night entertainment. The first half was dull, but the second was full of talking points as Uthai Thani beat hosts Ayutthaya United 2-1.

After the game, I headed to an area marked on Google Maps as Balloon Ayutthaya Night Plaza. This area is alien to most Westerners, although Eastern tourists and businessmen seem familiar with it.

Friday Night in Ayutthaya

It has a plaza for those wanting food and drink, along with many establishments catering to those looking for adult fun.

I enjoyed the two bars I used, where the friendly staff and owners bemoaned the rainy season and their lack of customers. It was a pleasant way to socialise for a few hours, knowing my mileage was massively reduced the following day.

After a walk and filming around stunning Wat Mahathat and Wat Ratchaburana, it was time to discover another new town.

More New Friends in Suphanburi

Minibuses leave Ayutthaya from Naresuan Road. I found out that the 703 would take me to Suphanburi.

Again, timetables seemed as natural as walking to the moon.

The driver waited until he had enough passengers before setting off on a route that stopped at several villages while also playing the role of a parcel courier.

We paid the driver at our destination. I noted that my fare was 100 THB, while Thais paid 20 baht less.

Banharn-Jamsai Tower in Suphanburi

Because it was too early to check into my 600 THB hotel room, I dropped my backpack and walked around the city to see how it operated.

Suphanburi had three things going for it. It had a football club with an interesting backstory. I’d never been, and it had a tower, which I’m a real sucker for.

The surrounding gardens were pristine, and the lift to the top was well worth 30 THB. I continued to the Tha Chin River and market area.

I had lunch at a tasty noodle shop opposite Wat Phra Rup before returning to my hotel for a siesta. The young man at reception turned on my AC while I was out so I could relax after my exercise, which I thought was a nice touch.

I ordered a Grab to another stadium located out of town for the match. For a short spell, Suphanburi were one of Thai football’s leading lights until the sponsors pulled out, and they now play in the third tier.

Locals still get behind the club, which offered free admission. I reckon at least 70% wore the new replica team shirts.

Food and drink options were limited, and even less so because of the large crowd who wanted to buy outside one of Thailand’s better arenas.

I found a seat in the covered stand next to a friendly chap who spoke a bit of English, while all around me were welcoming and slightly bewildered by my presence.

Sadly, the game didn’t live up to the occasion. The ref took the teams off for an hour a few minutes into the second half because of thunder and lightning, accompanied by heavy rain.

A tragedy a few months earlier in southern Thailand had seen a player killed by lightning, so stricter regulations were now in force.

By the Tha Chin River in Suphanburi

Thankfully, I managed to commandeer a Bolt ride back into town. I was slightly surprised it was the same man who had earlier driven for Grab, before changing apps to pick up a more expensive fare.

Who could blame him in that weather?

I returned to my room for an early night.

Back to Bangkok and a Great Day Out

My 8 am departure to the capital cost 120 THB and took around two hours.

In Bangkok, I took advantage of the feature all returning minibuses offer when I alighted at Mo Chit BTS station, with an interchange with Chatuchak MRT. This allowed me to take the underground train and drop my backpack at my hotel.

My room seemed like extremely good value when I booked it, costing only 520 THB. I soon found out why.

I’d booked a shared pod with another person. The Agoda website didn’t state that. The excellent receptionist helped me pay an additional 500 THB to upgrade to a single room.

While one of the priorities of my adventure was to reconnect with Thailand, it is also important not to be remote and to enjoy occasional familiarity.

The Red Lion on Sukhumvit 13 provided this, where an English breakfast and a mug of Yorkshire tea did the job as I watched the sports news on TV.

Expats and tourists have Western bar options, but this place is the best value. I think of it as Wetherspoons with multiple TVs showing live sport.

Feeling energised, I took the BTS across the city to Wongwian Yai. When I alighted, I walked a further 10 minutes to the railway station with the same name.

Wongwian Yai Station

Wongwian Yai is a splendid little station, with lots of stalls and cafes on the platforms and adjacent street.

My destination was Maha Chai, the old name for Samut Sakhon, a busy fishing port near the Gulf of Thailand on the same Tha Chin River as Suphanburi.

The journey took around an hour, and my ticket cost 20 THB.

When we arrived in the vibrant town, I wandered through the bustling market before catching the ferry across the river. This was an experience, with passengers and motorbikes sharing the same area.

On the other side, I walked to Ban Laem station.

Trains depart from there to Mae Klong station in Samut Songkhram. The journey is captured on YouTube as the train travels through a busy market, and owners pull back the awnings protecting their stalls from the tracks.

Back across the river, I wandered around Samut Sakhon. It was impossible not to know what was being sold in the market from the smells and sight of the seafood.

Ferry Across the Tha Chin in Samut Sakhon

After eating at Nampu Plaza, a tuk-tuk took me to the football match at a university campus stadium that has truly seen better days.

Samut Sakhon City have made great strides since being promoted to Thai League 3, even reaching the FA Cup semi-final a few seasons back.

Their support was passionate on this occasion, with over 600 fans cheering them on to victory against Rajpracha. It was probably the most exciting game of my tour.

Thankfully, a Bolt driver saved me a 30-minute walk back to the station, dropping me at the market at full-time as rain clouds gathered. Indeed, rain fell heavily during the train ride back to Bangkok.

I returned to the Red Lion to enjoy 150 THB pints of Tiger while watching the Premier League football from back home and having a nice conversation with a fellow expat who’d lived in Thailand for many years.

It was great to exchange stories and chat naturally for a couple of hours. I certainly slept well at my hotel.

Homeward Bound

After a bit of panic, I managed to hail a taxi to take me to where my first-class coach was setting off to take me back to Sisaket.

I travelled with Nakhonchai Air, which serves northern and northeast Thailand.

My ticket cost 750 THB and included a roomy, comfortable seat (there are only 30 on the coach), a light meal, a packet of snacks, water, a couple of cartons of juice, a blanket and a cold napkin.

Unfortunately, the entertainment screen was faulty.

I chose the company because each seat had an automatic back-massage feature, which I used plentifully.

While we travelled, I reflected on how much fun I’d had, sometimes outside my comfort zone, but always finding a solution, often with the help of friendly Thais.

Monday Morning Rush Hour in Bangkok

I ate in restaurants I might have been reluctant to try in the past, learned about the places I visited, and got in some valuable exercise.

I was reminded I was no longer a youngster, and that the following morning after a few drinks can be hard work.

But most of all, I reconnected with Thailand and its people and replicated the joy I used to feel when heading off alone.

Listen to the Full Story

You can also listen to an account of my 2,200km tour on an episode of A Thai Football Podcast.

My Thai Lifestyle Blog, The Thai Adventures of Rob B, contains information, articles, and stories of my adventures around the Land of Smiles.

UBNSSS (Ubon Ratchathani)

Ground: Ubon Rachathani Sports School Stadium (UBNSSS)

Capacity: 2,000

Opened: Unknown

League: Ubon FC, Warin Chamrap (previously)

Ubon Ratchthani is blessed with several stadiums capable of hosting professional football. Ubon Rachathani Sports School Stadium is one of them, with Ubon FC using it in different spells before moving around the corner to UBRU Stadium.

The stadium, which is multi-purpose and serves the needs of the academic establishment where it's located, was home to Warin Chamrap FC at the start of their 2026 Thai Semi-Pro League campaign.

2026 Seniors World Cup

The Seniors World Cup brings together former professional and international players aged over 40, representing their countries in a competitive tournament that has grown steadily in stature over the years.

It is an annual tournament organised by the Thai Senior Football Association. It is staged in different cities around the Land of Smiles. England were the holders arriving in Ubon Ratchathani for what turned out to be a memorable week of football and friendship.

My Visit

Thailand 0 England 2

Ubon Ratchathani Sports School Stadium

Seniors World Cup Group A – Monday 1st June 2026

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The Seniors World Cup was being staged in Ubon Ratchathani, just an hour away from my home, with its announcement creating excitement, at least as far as I was concerned. I took the train and met up with a mate who’d flown in for the week from Chiang Mai before going to the opening ceremony.

A school band led the procession around the track and onto the pitch. Each of the eight competing nations had schoolkids, flagbearers and a lady in an Isan costume representing them. The speeches were short and well-received in Thai and English before the opening game got underway.

Both sides looked in excellent physical condition, with the first half not being short on some tasty challenges from the hosts. The experienced England side, roared on by a huge following of schoolkids on either side of the pitch, had a bit too much quality for their opponents.

They went ahead through David Norris before Aaron O’Connor added a second goal before the interval. The second half saw the game slow in pace, with temperatures still in the early 30s after the 5 pm kick-off. England had a few chances, while the Thais pressed on a few occasions.

At full time, the winning players were visibly moved, applauding their supporters and posing for selfies while taking videos of their amazing memories. It was a surprise to those in the stadium to hear renditions of We Will Rock You and Vindaloo being sung by the local youngsters, who seemed delighted with the result.

The following day, England defeated Taiwan 4-1. The kick-off was 7 pm, which meant that it was too late for me to catch a train after the match. I watched on YouTube, where each game in the tournament was shown live.

Further Viewing

If you have enjoyed reading this article, you might enjoy watching the video I made throughout the tournament, the background and atmosphere of a remarkable week.

Seniors World Cup 2026

England Win the Seniors World Cup

in Ubon Ratchathani

I don’t think I will ever tire of being excited about an upcoming World Cup football tournament. It brings back great memories, and something special when recalling times watching players from what seemed like strange countries and learning about them as a kid.

As an England fan, I continued to live in hope of seeing my boys lift the trophy once again. My highlight came at Italia 90, when I travelled with my youngest brother Nick, as a penalty shoot-out in Turin left us in tears.

Italia 90

Moving to Thailand has most likely put an end to attending any more of the finals. I'm not keen on paying the exorbitant prices and the hassle involved. Doubly so when the US is involved in some of its policies under the current president.

Therefore, I was delighted when I saw on Facebook that I could attend the World Cup after all, and it was only an hour from where we live. The 18th staging of the Seniors World Cup was being staged over a week in Ubon Ratchathani. It was time for me to start planning and finding out any available information.

The Seniors World Cup brings together former professional and international players aged over 40, representing their countries in a competitive tournament that has grown steadily in stature over the years.

It is an annual tournament organised by the Thai Senior Football Association. It is staged in different cities around the Land of Smiles. England were the holders arriving in Ubon Ratchathani for what turned out to be a memorable week of football and friendship.

I was helped that my mate Dale, on A Thai Football Podcast, had arranged an interview with David Jones, the Manchester-born USA head coach, one of the eight teams involved. I found his team's Facebook page as well as the one for the England side helpful, learning whatever I could before things got underway.

Opening Ceremony in Ubon

The first day of June came around. I set off on the train to Ubon, not really knowing exactly what to expect in terms of how many people would go to watch and what would be provided for spectators. The Thai end of the publicity and information was, sadly, but not totally surprisingly, negligible.

Meeting with my mate Kevin, who had flown in for the week from Chiang Mai, we arrived at the UBSSS (Ubon Ratchathani Sports School Stadium), where a shower threatened to spoil the fun before the skies cleared for what was an excellent opening ceremony.

England Squad

A school band led the procession around the track and onto the pitch. Each of the eight competing nations had schoolkids, flagbearers and a lady in an Isan costume representing them. The speeches were short and well-received in Thai and English before the opening game got underway.

The England players were taken aback by the support they received from the schoolkids on both sides of the stadium. Remarkable when considering the opponents were Thailand. Two teachers at the front, along with a drummer, got the kids singing repeated versions of "We Will Rock You" and "Vindaloo," to the astonishment of the farangs in the stadium.

The hosts were defeated 2-0 by a team containing Premier League and international star, Gareth Barry, with a few thousand professional appearances spread among his teammates. The players were visibly moved at the end, applauding their supporters and posing for selfies while taking videos of their amazing memories.

I watched the Tuesday matches at home through the excellent YouTube coverage. With England and the USA both winning their first two games, their match at the UMT Stadium on Wednesday meant that the winners would benefit from an arguably easier semi-final tie.

If anyone were in any doubt that the Seniors World Cup matters to the players, those doubts would have been put to bed after watching this feisty encounter. The match became increasingly physical, and England ultimately benefited as frustration got the better of the Americans, who finished with ten men.

The kids from the local Buddhist Orphan School were there once again, making a din and offering the England team their support. They added to the atmosphere at the UMT Stadium, where the total attendance numbered around 800.

It was a delightful day out all told, as my friend John drove us through. We played golf, then relaxed with food and drinks at Wrong Way Café, where Kevin was waiting for us and where the amiable owner opened early for us. A friendly local gave us some good tips for future visits when wanting food and drink.

Thursday was a day off regarding match action. However, the players and their backup teams were involved in a school's initiative. Youngsters received gifts and coaching, hopefully enhancing their love of the beautiful game. It was a pleasure to invite Kevin to our home for lunch, so he saw why I am so content in my rural surroundings.

Lunch by the Mun River

Heading back to Ubon on the train on Friday, I was genuinely excited, while confident in England’s ability to win the game. Proper football weather of pouring rain accompanied me during the train journey and then again while Kevin and I enjoyed a late lunch and drinks by the Mun River.

Once England broke through the Australian defence, the result was rarely in doubt. The defeated side gave it their all despite suffering a few injuries during the match. One of their charges was stretchered off, later recovering in Tawandang nightclub, according to rumours.

The kids were there once again. It was quite possibly the occasion, or perhaps, having imbibed, I decided to teach them how to chant after a certain drumbeat. The reaction was one of bemusement, amusement, and polite smiles and applause.

The other semifinal in the Seniors World Cup saw France defeat the USA on penalties, which meant they would face their old adversaries in the final. John met me once again to drive through and meet Kevin, allowing the three of us quality time in a quaint Italian pizza restaurant in the old town.

We arrived to see the USA take third place after defeating the depleted Aussies. Up the road, two games in the Masters, played between the four teams who finished in the bottom two places of the initial groups, took place. Taiwan defeated Laos in the wooden spoon game, while Thailand defeated New Zealand, providing local pride.

At the UMT Stadium, England put on a professional performance to sweep the French aside 4-0. In truth, the final score could have been far bigger if they hadn’t spurned so many chances. The Gallic goalie had a fantastic match.

The celebrations among the England squad showed just how much they wanted to win. It was wonderful to see them include the kids and continue to connect, with lots of supporters going onto the pitch. The team signed endless autographs and posed for selfies while also enjoying their own moments.

Some might say that it was only an overage tournament, with a limited number of teams partaking. However, I thought it was magnificent on many levels. I’m a lucky man. I went to Italia 90 and Euro 96, both iconic England tournaments. Yet, Ubon 26 will live with me for years to come.

The Extremely Popular Gareth Barry

I saw players I’d previously paid to see or watched on TV competing near where I live in a corner of Thailand where westerners aren’t in abundance. All the competing teams embraced the event and the city of Ubon, providing the supporters with entertainment over a glorious week of football. Best of all, they gave lots of youngsters an amazing time. You cannot buy that.

If you have enjoyed reading this article, you might enjoy watching the video I made throughout the tournament, the background and atmosphere of a remarkable week.

Buriram United 2019-2026

Buriram United FC

Ground: Chang Arena
Capacity: 32,600
Club Founded: 2012
League: Thai League 1 (current level)

This page covers the matches I have attended at the Chang Arena since 2019. A delve into the history of Buriram United and my first visit has its own page, as does my visit when the stadium was used as a neutral venue, with its background.

My Visits from 2019 to 2026

Buriram United 1 Beijing Guoan 3

AFC Champions League Group G - Tuesday 9th April 2019

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I’d not really anticipated returning to Buriram so quickly, but the fixtures worked out perfectly just after the Chiang Mai International Cricket Sixes. Steve, my regular Thai travelling companion, wanted to go, as did Fah, who is originally from the province.

It worked out well. Fah would meet us there, along with Gary, who lived in Buriram. Before we connected with them, we had had some serious issues to overcome to get there. I hadn't done my homework about bus travel in Isan.

Traditional Isan train fare. Barbequed chicken on a stick

Homework Failure

We’d been in Udon Thani v Customs United on Sunday evening, followed by a couple of heavy nights out. I had relied on there being a bus to Buriram. However, I was wrong. We would have needed to change in Nakhon Ratchasima, with the whole journey taking seven hours.

Instead, we decided to take the train and change in Korat. The snag was that we needed to be on the 5.45am service to arrive in Buriram at 2pm. What followed was the stuff of legends or nightmares, depending on your sense of humour and attitude.

A Rough Ride

Just to add an extra dynamic into the equation, I decided to get the taste the night before in Udon and turn into George Best without his talent. It’s fair to say that an interesting evening evolved, meaning two very weary travellers trudging to the station in the dark early the next day.

Trying to sleep in the basic carriages was not easy, but I enjoyed a bit of extra shut-eye. I got to see the elevated part of the track that had been under construction in the Khon Kaen region on my visit the previous June. I’m not sure Steve was quite as fascinated.

We’d been assured by the assistant at Udon the day before that there was the option of an air-conditioned first-class train between Nakhon Ratchasima and Buriram. Steve’s expression at the ticket office, when we changed, told a different tale.

All seats were sold on what was a second-class-only service. I wasn’t perturbed. Surely there would be plenty of space? I was wrong. Terribly wrong. I can’t remember ever trying to get on such a busy train between towns for so long.

It was a minor miracle that we got my big case of the overhead rack. Freelance food and drink sellers squeezed down the aisles to add to the melee. All sold similar wares and shouted the same story. It got past being amusing after a while.

It didn’t deter me from getting my favourite lump of chicken on a stick as bemused locals looked on at the two big Farangs standing up on the train. A gaggle of Beijing fans were sitting further up the carriage. Goodness knows what they made of it all.

Steve and Fah

Pre-Match

It was some relief when we pulled into Buriram. Fah was there to greet us on the platform, from where it was only a walk across the track and a minute's walk to the top-class Klim Hotel. I couldn’t remember being as happy to flop on a bed and then take a shower!

Gary met us outside at 4pm and took us to Up2you Bar for drinks and excellent Thai food. Onwards to the Chang Arena, where the car park was fuller than last time. Our friend had sorted out our tickets in advance. Again, no programmes were on sale.

Buriram’s opponents had started the Chinese Super League with four straight wins, so it was obviously going to be a big test for the locals. The crowd was a disappointing size, but 6pm kick-offs aren’t a huge help for getting from work to the game.

Beijing fans section

The Match

Beijing were certainly serious from the off, going ahead on just two minutes when the star of the show, Cédric Bakambu, turned in a low cross at the near post from Li Lei. United responded and put together some good football, and were unlucky when a defender deflected a cross onto his own post.

However, they were to find the Beijing defence in a resolute mood, with Yu Dabao superb throughout as Pedro Junior, Supachai Jaided, and Supachok Sarachart were all thwarted. Buriram were made to pay for not taking their chances on the half-hour mark. 

Bakambu finished an almost replica goal to the opener, only this time it was Renato Augusto who provided the cross. There were no further goals before the break as the hosts must have been ready to regroup and plan. 

The Democratic Republic of Congo striker Bakambu extinguished home hopes when completing his hat trick nine minutes after the restart, as he bundles home after Wang Gang saw his effort fumbled by United keeper Siwarak Tedsungnoen.

To credit Buriram, they never gave up and continued to create several half-chances. Pedro Junior saw his powerful shot from the edge of the box saved by Zou Dehai. Bakambu missed the easiest chance of the game after seventy-seven minutes. With just over ten minutes left on the clock, Buriram got the goal back they thoroughly deserved.

Luong Xuan Truong and sixteen-year-old Suphanat Mueanta put together a clever move through the defence for the youngster to score. We held out a bit of hope for a comeback. Another quick goal would have set up a thrilling finale, but it wasn’t to be despite Buriram’s valiant efforts. The Chinese side showed just a little more class and deserved their victory.

Post-Match

Post-match, Gary took us to Harley Route 288, a fine sprawling bar run by an amiable fella from Portsmouth. Virtually all the expat blokes wore Buriram United shirts. Many had watched the match there rather than going up the road to the stadium.

From there, we headed to Paddy's Irish Bar, where the Swedish owner was very friendly. I was certainly a fan of the bars of Buriram. Steve and Fah were also impressed. However, they were tired and went to bed, while Gary and I ventured to Speed Hall and its surroundings.

I certainly slept that night, which was just as well. We enjoyed a really good touristy Wednesday after a really good breakfast. Fah wanted to show us her home “village” of Nang Rong. It was as well we had Gary’s car!

Discovering Buriram Province

That was another eye-opener, as Nang Rong turned out to be a town of 21,000 population over thirty miles away! I love doing local cultural stuff, so it was right up my street. Fah seemed pretty chuffed that we’d made the effort as well.

We returned and had a proper look and walk around Khao Kradong Forest Park and the volcano on a blistering-hot early afternoon, where the young monks posed for photos. In the evening, we visited The Swan Bar for another outstanding meal before returning to Paddy's Irish Bar.

We had a good long drink. Unfortunately, my sense of direction led to us getting lost and having a little tiff. I apologised profusely the following morning. By then, I’d licked my wounds in the Castleblack​ craft pub I’d wanted to take Steve to visit.

Perked up, I finished the evening in peak form in Tawandang, an entertainment hall, where I watched local acts and smiled with locals. It was the penultimate night of my trip after all. Steve and I returned on the flight to Bangkok the following morning with lots of memories of a brilliant few days on the road.

Buriram United 0 BG Pathum United 1

Thai League 1 - Sunday 20th March 2022

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 22,079 🎟️ 150 THB (£3.60)

Nakhonchai Air Bus

It was time for another trip to a city that I thoroughly enjoyed, this time with just Steve, after Fah fell ill a couple of days before departure. On this occasion, we travelled by coach on a Nakhonchai Air service, and what a choice that proved to be.

The seats were comfortable and similar to first class on a train. Each had a screen with a full entertainment package, and best of all, you could press a button at any time and have your back massaged. Plus, we got a food voucher when we stopped. Thoroughly recommended.

Our arrival was around thirty minutes late, not that we cared a jot. We walked to the Klim hotel for a quick rinse before Gary and his good lady arrived, and drove us to a usual place for food and drinks before the match.

Training Ground Move

The stadium was busy. We finally found seats right near the back towards the goal line, even if the crowd figure was nowhere near the published attendance for the 7pm kickoff. It would prove to be another frustrating evening for Buriram.

Unbelievably, my record of seeing them lose every time I had visited the Chang Arena would continue, despite them requiring a solitary point to clinch the league title. They were undone by an excellent away team performance that thoroughly merited the win.

The only goal came in the thirteenth minute through a training ground corner kick move, as a hard, low ball was dragged to near the penalty spot from where Sarach Yooyen smashed home on the volley past goalie Siwarak.

Buriram Frustration

The hosts huffed and puffed against a resolute BG side, who prevented the creation of any real, clear-cut chances. An effort over the bar from Theerathon summed up their frustration before the same player bent a free kick over the bar.

Supachai blasted over on the half-volley soon after the halftime interval when fed in. He really should have hit the target, but his effort typified the home performance, which wasn’t impressive to my Buriram supporting friends.

Bunmathan was the pick of the home players, bending a low effort just wide and then threading in Jonathan Bolingi, who was denied by the Pathum Thani defence. It looked like the home side had restored parity when Bolingi squared for Suphanat to net, but the goal was chalked off by VAR for offside.

The away team nearly extended the lead with a curling shot that was tipped onto the post by Siwarak before the stopper was called into action to save another attempt. Bolingi then fired wide when trying to curl an effort past goalie Kittipong Phuthawchueak.

BG should have doubled their advantage from a free kick, when a fine move resulted in a low header wide of the post, before they saw the game out with relative ease. Buriram were still nine points ahead of BGPU with four games remaining.

After the game, it took quite a while to get out of the busy and disorganised car park, from where we headed to AkriKa bar, where the amiable host Geordie and a few regulars provided excellent company and some good local advice.

Buriram United 2 Port FC 3 

Thai League 1 - Sunday 30th April 2023

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 29,461 🎟️ 250 THB (£6)

Perfect Day

Some days stand out in your life as a football supporter, and this was most certainly one of them. I don’t suppose Lou Reid was thinking of me when he penned Perfect Day, but that’s what it turned out to be.

My wife Taew and I set out at just gone 8am from our Suan Kluai home in Sisaket Province, heading west to Surin, where we picked up Gary's partner, whom we were meeting in Buriram. It was great to see them again for the first time since they attended our wedding.

On arrival at our destination, we left the car at the Sita Princess Hotel, where we were staying for the night before Gary drove us to Chang Arena so that I could collect the tickets I’d bought online earlier in the week, just in case it was a complete sellout.

Sightseeing, Lunch, and Football

We headed to Khao Kradong Forest Park and Volcano, with this being my wife’s first visit to the city. We enjoyed a nice walk and took photos before being reunited. We went for a nice lunch with Gary’s 92-year-old mum at the pleasant Book'n Bed restaurant. After a quick siesta, it was time to head to the action.

On this occasion, my pal decided to park on the main road away from what would be a congested car park with such a big gate in attendance. This worked well as the away block was the nearest to it, meaning we didn’t need a specific meeting point at full time. 

There was an outdoor market with food and beers before we reached a pop-up bar yards from our gate, to enjoy a catch-up with some expats I’d met on previous visits. I was quick to point out that, despite Buriram being champions eight times, including the last two, I had seen them lose all 3 home games I had attended. Not that I gave Port much chance of extending that run.

The Match

We went our separate ways after beers, with our tickets being the usual ridiculous markup as away supporters. Port’s players gave the re-crowned champions a guard of honour onto the pitch ahead of the 5.30pm kickoff.

The away side, backed by about 300 fans who’d made the six-hour trip up from Bangkok, started reasonably well. Suphanat saw a near-post header from a corner go over for the hosts before fellow Thai international striker Supachai missed a chance when put clean through with a slide rule pass from Haris Vučkić.

A fantastic passing move from the visitors gave Negueba an opportunity, but his tame side-foot shot saw keeper Siwarak gather easily. The work involved strong play from forward Hamilton, described by some as the Brazilian Andy Carroll. Whatever, he was a handful throughout this encounter.

A Port counterattack from defending a deeply struck set piece saw Negueba play in Pathompol Charoenrattanapirom, whose first touch was poor, and second awful as he wasted a one-on-one. Despite this, I was happy enough if the teams went down the tunnel level at the break, but no prizes for what happened next.

Some faffing about at the back between Tanaboon Kesarat and Bordin Phala allowed Suphanat to nip in and supply Vučkić, who smashed the ball into the roof of the net for the champions. He had to go off with a strain immediately after, but his work was done.

At the interval, beers were available downstairs, but I didn’t bother. There was also a pile of Euro Cakes, a sweet version of a UK cake, which were given out free outside by sponsors, but not allowed within view of the pitch. My wife was told not to eat the tubs of sweets in her bag, either, and I am being totally serious.

Goran Čaušić missed a good chance for the hosts when the ball was dragged back to him, but Port continued to play OK and equalised with a superb bending free kick of around 25 yards from Airton, the third of the Brazilians in the lineup.

Suphanat stung the hands of Port stopper Somporn Yos. The follow-up from Čaušić was easily saved. Just before the hour mark, Port went ahead. Hamilton won a header in the direction of Worachit Kanitsribampen, on loan from BG Pathum United, who scored.

Unbelievably, the linesman's flag was up, but I said straightaway it was a goal because he had come from behind the defender. It was tighter than I initially thought, but VAR overruled the official, and Port found themselves 2-1 ahead. Within three minutes, the scores were level as Supachai was gifted a free header from a corner.

Away Win!

The restart was delayed as Negueba was going spare, complaining to referee Sivakorn Pu-Udom that the Buriram sub, Jonathan Bolingi, made gestures in his direction. The ref clearly didn't know what had happened, booked Bolingi, and made the situation worse by also showing Hamilton a yellow card for his protestations.

From the kickoff, Buriram won possession and fed Suphanat wide. His low cross found Bolingi, who couldn’t connect firmly, allowing Somporn to save as the atmosphere increased. Ten minutes from time, it got very loud in the away section as a build-up was half cleared but fell to Worachit, who finished very calmly. I could hardly believe what I was seeing.

Suphanan Bureerat was denied by the legs of Siwarak as the visitors threatened to extend their lead with another effort coming back off the underside of the bar before Bolingi was fortunate not to receive a second yellow when twice in quick succession he used his hands to push over a Port player in the upper chest.

Post Match

Naturally enough, I was extremely happy, but also disappointed. I know it’s easier when your team wins, but I thought the expat Buriram fans might have been slightly more magnanimous, putting the result down to their poor team rather than offering any praise. Not for the first time, I must add.

We went on to the Astra Bar, a rooftop area on top of the Alvarez Hotel, where it was surreal to hear an expat having a go at the Thai staff for poor service, while a fella from Newcastle 'entertained' the meagre number of customers while singing and playing the keyboard. I did well not to let my laughter show, while my missus told the moaner to calm down in Thai. 

On to Afrika, a bar that doesn’t appear to have a clock, to see Geordie, while I continued asking the locals if they enjoyed the game. We ended in Tawandang nightclub until 3am, where I was singing and dancing with my good lady and three young Port fans. It was incredibly loud, but fun, with live acts and a DJ. I should know better as a 57-year-old!

Buriram United 2 Chonburi 2 

Thai League 1 - Sunday 8th October 2023

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 16,813 🎟️ 100 THB (£2.40)

Pre-Match thoughts with Jamie and Dale

for A Thai Football Podcast

Build-Up

Another great day out as Taew drove us through for lunch at a stunning waterside restaurant with our friends. Before the match, we met up with Dale, Nui and Jamie. I played the interviewer, getting opinions and score predictions. Dale, cheering for the visitors, genuinely feared a severe drubbing. 

Fans of other clubs generally think that Buriram has too much power through their owner, who has a lot of influence. A few weeks earlier, his side got a huge rub of the green from a referee astonishingly appointed despite being from Buriram. An away game was postponed against the table-topping Bangkok United, when games are often played in far worse conditions.

For all that, Buriram has the best stadium in the country, a fantastic recruitment record, and huge support. They had won the domestic treble in the previous two seasons. Think the Man United of Thailand, and you are not far off. They came into this match with games in hand on leaders Port, with opponents Chonburi in the drop zone after seven games.

The Action

An incredible game of football ensued, flowing from end to end throughout, and provided a superb spectacle, at least for a neutral, on a slick pitch in pouring rain, which no doubt added to the excitement.

Chonburi looked panicky in the early stages and conceded from a free header after five minutes when Lonsana Doumbouya bulleted him the third of three consecutive corners. The away side was playing high-risk risk if high-reward football. 

They were thankful their keeper, Patrick Deyto, who pulled off a miraculous save from the scorer as the prophecy of my mate looked like it would play out. Gradually, the visiting Sharks grew in confidence and kept playing in the same fashion and creating chances. 

Lira smashed a shot off the underside of the crossbar while being dominant in the air and looking like a proper player throughout. Both sides were going from it and fashioning opportunities. Supachai should have scored from a header soon after the restart for the hosts. Chonburi were reduced to ten men with half an hour remaining.

Lira was shown his second yellow card. Both his bookings were questionable, leading to no doubt more raised eyebrows around the country. Instead of being deflated, his team found another gear and scored despite a VAR check for offside through Channarong Promsrikaew with twenty minutes to go. 

The away fans were wild with delight in the open corner. Dale had earlier been involved in a huge row with stewards who wanted to confiscate his brolly, protecting him and his wife. Chances were being missed by the hosts before Supachai finished expertly five minutes later. Again, a VAR check, this time for a push, which went in Buriram’s favour.

A Deserved Ovation

Surely that was that. I had said to Gary, high up in the seats with us, that it could easily end 4 or 5-1 as the visitors were out on their feet. Deyto and his defence were performing miracles as the play stretched and turned into something like a basketball match.

However, there was a sting in the tail as the impressive Murillo turned his full-back, cut inside and then unleashed a beauty into the far corner past Siwarak in the home net. Incredible stuff, as Buriram then did everything but snatch a winner.

To their credit, a feature at Thai games always sees the opposing fans applaud their opponents who go across to greet them. The reception offered to the Chonburi players was wonderful to witness and well deserved. Indeed, the noise from the West Zone was impressive all evening.

Beer Time

After the game, Dale said he was gutted that his side hadn’t taken all three points. I was only eight numbers out from winning a bed mattress in the halftime draw. It might have been interesting carting that around the town, mind. A fine Indian feed after the match at Afrika Bar, followed by a ridiculously large session of craft beer at Jiejiu on Thani Alley.

Five fridges full of bottles and cans could be chosen from around the world, with a great concept. You pick them out of the fridge and then pay at the counter, and then sit down, with waitresses bringing you glasses. Live EPL on the big screen and a full house of happy young Thais, with the Everton supporting owner being very flexible with his hours of business.

We returned home with two carrier bags full of empty cans, as my good lady hit upon the idea of fixing them to the garden fence and putting pebbles in them so they would rattle in the wind and scare the chickens away from the crops. She’s dafter than me. My hangover on the way home the following morning was not pretty.

Buriram United 1 Port FC 1 

Thai League 1 - Sunday 12th May 2024

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 31,200 🎟️ 250 THB (£6)

Usual Routine

Back to Buriram in the car, and the usual lunch before checking in at the Klim Hotel. There was plenty of social activity as ever, with four couples in our group, some supporting each side. Excellent fare was enjoyed at the Afrika bar pre-match before drinks near the entrance to the away fans block.

Going to Buriram is like going to a good-level European game, with a great matchday experience. On this occasion, a junior tournament, which had good crowds, was being played out on the nearby training pitches. My friends attending for the first time were extremely impressed.

What we got inside was a wonderful advert for Thai football at a packed Chang Arena as the hosts, requiring a win to secure the title, were held by third-place Port, who were denied a late winner by a very dubious VAR intervention.

The Match

The first twenty minutes were all Buriram before Port found their breath after ensuring that keeper Somporn didn’t have a shot to save. The visitors from Bangkok went ahead when a scuffed effort found its way to Worachit, who slotted past Siwarak Thedsungnoen. The scorer didn’t celebrate as he, and indeed most of the crowd, assumed that he was offside. 

However, VAR showed that he was just on. Thai national team captain Theerathon creates division among opposing fans. He’s an excellent player who delivered some great crosses throughout the game, but as ever, he was involved in some exchanges with the Port fans, who respect but genuinely don’t like him.

Into the second half, Port had taken control of the game and were playing at a slower pace and keeping possession with a really polished performance, creating a few half-chances along the way. They really should have grasped their opportunity when it arose, as they very rarely keep a clean sheet.

Mid-season Buriram signing, Bissoli had made all the difference in them overtaking Bangkok United as they headed towards their eighth title in twelve seasons. The Brazilian was a class act, always in the thick of the action and being a pest to the opposition, while never being short of a word in the ref’s ear.

It was he who found space from a corner to head home after sixty-four minutes despite Somporn’s best efforts. He went close once again from another tremendous, wise delivery, which Port failed to get to grips with throughout the encounter. It was at this point that the away side decided to go for the win, rather than just being content with a draw.

They thought that they had scored a winner around ten minutes from time. A near-post corner got a deflection and went in. Bissoli complained he was pushed. Referee Sivakorn Pu-Udom is a leading Thai official and had an excellent game. However, he was summoned to check the VAR monitor for reasons that those who watched the highlights later still couldn’t work out.

I’m unsure what directive referees are given by the Thai FA, but he decided to chalk off the goal. It caused plenty of anger both in the stadium and on social media. Buriram tend to get many favourable decisions throughout a season, not dissimilar to Manchester United under Sir Alex Ferguson. It's a shame to be tainted in such a way, as the club does so much right. 

After the match, we had a proper session at Jiejiu in town, before bedtime at the Klim Hotel, which was up to its old excellent standards. Back home, I eventually edited a video for my YouTube Channel.

Buriram United 0 Port FC 1

Thai League 1 - Sunday 2nd February 2025

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 31,305 🎟️ 250 THB (£6)

Amazing Experience

An utterly amazing day and night in wonderful company, which is right up there with any football experience of the past. It can be shared by watching the video on my YouTube Channel. It began early with a smooth train ride from Bangkok. Great friends once in Buriram with an excellent pre-match. A fantastic turnout of away fans, and then the match.

I was certain that Port would receive a drubbing, and my unbeaten away team run at the stadium would end. A surprising team selection from interim boss Choke, but every player gave everything that they had, with the winning goal coming from Chinnawat Wongchai after twenty-six minutes.

A Long Night Out

The rest of the game resembled an onslaught, with the hosts having around 80% possession. Somporn, in the Port goal, was inspired while defenders continually put their bodies on the line and restricted the star-studded Buriram lineup to a few chances on goal. Supachai came closest to an equaliser when his shot came back off the post.

The celebrations were joyous and extremely long. We visited bars and then the entertainment zone, finishing close to 3am in Tawandang. The following day was a struggle, but worth it. If only every football day was like this one, but perhaps that’s its beauty and why we savoured it so much.

Buriram United 1 Port 0 

Thai League 1 - Sunday 14th December 2025

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 17,151 🎟️ 250 THB (£6)

Dark Thoughts

Through in the car again, we went for lunch with Gary and mum, reminiscing about the good old days. We met with our friends and headed to the stadium for drinks in the usual place. A large following of Port fans had made the journey in a positive mood. Not so, a couple of hours later.

It is seldom that I leave a football stadium angry in my later life, but the goings on at the Thunder Castle pressed all my buttons on this occasion. The reigning champs won with a goal in stoppage time from Goran Čaušić, but that’s only a bit of the story.

Port were at least equal to Buriram throughout and had spells on top. The refereeing of Torphong Somsing was biased in favour of the hosts, going one step further in the seventy-third minute when, after a VAR check decided to send off Chanukun Karin for an alleged stamp, which was inconclusive to those watching on TV.

Thai Football's Elephant in the Room

Naturally, the pressure grew on the away side’s goal, leading to the winner and then a frustrated Asnawi Bahar receiving a second yellow, leading to a huge melee in the middle of the pitch. It says it all when my Buriram friends said they were lucky to win and were shocked by some of the decisions.

The neutrals I took in the away end with me were completely staggered. Alexandre Gama, the Brazilian Port coach, was fined 100,000 THB for his post-match comments regarding the ref. Incredible when both Muangthong United and BG Pathum United were only fined 50,000 each for serious crowd trouble at their game, with three ending up in hospital.

But that sums up Thai football in a nutshell. Nobody is allowed to criticise officials because the authorities lose face. Buriram seem to get away with anything they want. Or at least that's how it looks to fans of other clubs.

Fun Continues

We headed for drinks at a place near the railway station, where the evening got worse, as an aggressive Dutchman tried to intimidate three of us wearing Port shirts. I was taken aback. Nothing like that had happened there before. The beauty of a Buriram away game is the friendliness and the good night out.

We calmed down with a nice drink in the excellent Castle Black, ironically owned by the football club, before meeting with the others at Buddy By Bus in the entertainment zone, before calling it a night.