Bangkok AFC

Bangkok AFC is an amateur league team that originated from the Bangkok Football Academy (BFA), which is currently a member of the Thonburi League. In the 2026 season, they used the MRTA Football Field on Rama IX. 

The side reached the quarter finals of the Thonburi Champions League in 2024, where their hopes of honours ended against Thonburi University, before being defeated by Kratoomrai Academy in 2025 after a fine campaign in Zone C.

My visit

Bangkok AFC 3 Minburi City 1

Sunday 22nd March 2026 

Thonburi League Group C 

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 c25 🎟️ Free

My latest delve into the Thonburi League during a visit to Bangkok saw me enjoy a very pleasant couple of hours watching an amateur game near the city centre, where Minburi City, a team I used to go and see, were in action. A good game too in the searing heat with goalmouth action and plenty of skill.

The Thonburi League is a competition, nominally at level 5 in Thailand, along with a couple of other self-run regional leagues. Some teams use the competition to prepare for the regional Semi-pro League, from which the winners are promoted into the regional Thai League 3. Thai Leagues 1 and 2 are national.

It is a well-run competition, with plenty of teams on each of its five equal sections, divided according to location. Admission is free at games, and all the venues are of reasonable quality, with every game having a full team of officials. 

Rolling subs are permitted until the final ten minutes of the game, which protects against the heat and ensures everyone gets a decent game. Something for the English FA to ponder so that players don't continually move from club to club in the quest for a regular run. It certainly gave me plenty to report on for my updates to A Thai Football Podcast.

This match started with Minburi looking far better than I remembered previously, with an African coach at the helm. However, fielding three 15-year-olds from their academy owing to absence would prove to be their undoing.

The first of which, a goalie was completely out of his depth, something the BAFC players quickly sussed after what looked like a harmless shot from outside the box from the number 9 found the net. 

Chaos ensued when the second goal crossed the line despite the best attempts of a defender and the woodwork to keep it out after another goalkeeping fumble. I had a good view of proceedings from one of the raised open bleachers, after being invited to sit there by Bee, the Minburi City club manager. 

When the club was formed, I’d bought a team shirt. When I attended a game in the old Amateur League, the club presented me with a cap and all kinds of souvenirs. Therefore, on this occasion, it was lovely to be remembered and welcomed by Bee, who was surprised by my appearance. 

He was filming the game, which featured a team predominantly made up of Africans, and asked me why I wasn’t wearing my shirt. I explained I was now living in Sisaket but was staying at our Minburi condo, when the fixture caught my attention and fitted perfectly into my plans. 

Back on the pitch, the amiable, larger-than-life coach, who looked to me for support and some kind of suggestion in exasperation at his team’s failings, had replaced the goalie. The new one was more experienced, but not great. I empathised greatly with my new friend!

After the drinks break, it was 3-0 when a Bangkok player went clean through. They should have added to their tally, but too many players started showing off their range of tricks rather than getting the job done, as can often occur if a team senses they have an easy win on their hands.

After the break, a mixture of luck, desperate defending, unorthodox goalkeeping, and some clever forward play saw Minburi perform much better. They got a goal back and then saw the BAFC make a couple of good saves, while another shot thundered back off the bar. 

A player arrived with fifteen minutes to go, got changed and went on. If he had been there earlier, it could have made a big difference. Overall, I really enjoyed myself in excellent company, as well as ticking off a new ground for me in the MRTA Fitness Park, which carried the fitting title of the ‘Stadium of Spirit’. 

It was nicely set out with a huge lake behind one goal and the backdrop of the city at the other end. Post-match, I headed off to my second game of the day, which turned out to be an amazing occasion as Police Tero took on Sisaket United, while I was among the incredible away support.

My YouTube video captures my experience from the game

A Funny Kind of Love. Port FC and I

A Funny Kind of Love. Port FC and I

Port 1 Khon Kaen United 2

Wednesday 14th January 2025

Thai League 1

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 2,317

Thai football has always been special to me, ever since I first discovered there was a league in the Land of Smiles during an early visit. Back then, my time spent in Thailand was primarily for my involvement in six-a-side cricket competitions, meaning any information was found online.

It was scarce at the time, with Wikipedia being the main outlet before I later discovered Facebook and Twitter pages, and I came across the excellent “It’s A Habit that Sticks”, an English blog site concentrating primarily on Chonburi FC. They were a huge name in Thai football at the time. 

My First Time at Thai Football

I first found Thai club shirts in 2007 at shops near the National Stadium, including Police United and Port FC. My first chance to go to a game arrived in 2010 after the cricket was over in Phuket. An Icelandic volcano put pay to any scheduled return to Blighty.

I went to Army United v Bangkok United and then Customs Suvarnabhumi v Thai Honda on consecutive days, thoroughly enjoying my introduction without feeling any passion towards any of the sides involved. Before I returned home, I caught the MRT to Khlong Toei and walked the ten minutes or so to the PAT Stadium, which was being upgraded.

No More Madam Pang on the posters anymore

A Love Affair is Born

Something about it hooked me immediately. I later found out Port already had a reputation, with their fans involved in fighting with those of rivals Muangthong United at Suphachalasai Stadium a few months previously. It was so severe that it saw the Kor Royal Cup being awarded to MTU. I would have to wait for my first game at the PAT.

I got my chance in April 2013, after attending a Regional League game between Globlex and Samut Sakon. I hailed a taxi down Ramkhamhaeng Road, with the driver eventually working out where I wanted to go.

It was a disappointing result, as Singhtarua, as Port were called at the time, lost 2-1 to BB-CU in the second tier. It was the first night under the new floodlights which attracted a good-sized crowd.

A drink with a pal in Bangkok's best beer garden

The ground had previously been somewhat of a shambles, with repeated floodlight failures, causing the abandonment of matches. Port had to move out, and the club had to reform.

It might have been because of what I’d gone through with Scarborough FC going bust and then helping with the new Scarborough Athletic, I felt quite at home. I did giggle when a fan in front of me had “Hooligan” emblazed on his shirt rather than a player’s name.

Early Impressions of Port FC

My regular twice-yearly trips sometimes came up lucky for Port fixtures. I enjoyed everything about the PAT experience and the occasional away games following the team. The feistiness and passion of the fans, while being virtually on top of the pitch, gave it something that stood out above other Thai venues. I even streamed some games while back in the UK.

Never a shortage of food or drink at the PAT

Things changed, possibly forever at Port, when Nualphan Lamsam, otherwise known as Madam Pang, took over the club. She is not camera-shy and is not to everyone’s tastes. However, her finances made a huge difference. 

The atmosphere at games seemed to change somewhat. Beer was no longer allowed in the stands. Her image was displayed on a match advertisement, while she sat on the bench next to the coaches. They were put in awkward positions. If they had told her not to, it would have led to a difficult situation and dismissal. That’s how Thailand works. 

Only the Lonely as the kick-off approaches

Living in Thailand

By December 2021, I had moved to Thailand full-time. Tickets for the start of the second leg during Covid restrictions were purchased, with my mate Steve joining me. I went a lot that season as the results nosedived. The same as they had in many previous seasons and did in future seasons to come.

A Change of Perspective

Undoubtedly, my feelings towards going to football changed when I moved home. Results were far less important to me than before. I’d sometimes still get involved and have a shout at games, which I attended more than often as a neutral to visit new places. If a team like Port, whom I wanted to win, didn’t, I wasn’t that bothered once I walked outside the gates.

I think it was because I was living in a beautiful place and finding the woman of my dreams. We'd got married, while I was fully integrating into Thai life with her family and friends. I still meet up occasionally with fellow farangs, but generally, it's on a matchday somewhere. At Port, I have been lucky to meet some loyal Thai locals who are passionate in the extreme.

At first, I thought that I had confused them. My friends going to games with me, were treated superbly by them. They understand that football is my love rather than one club, even if they think I’m bonkers ever considering going to games of Port's rivals Muangthong in the home end. 

The Journey to the PAT Stadium

Returning from an amazing three-week tour around Thailand with my good lady and her relatives, the fixtures fell kindly for me to go to my third home game of the 2024-25 season. Port had lost the previous Sunday away to Chiang Rai United, who, like visitors, Khon Kaen United were in the drop zone. Surely it would end in a home win.

I had taken the quick route from Minburi, consisting of Songthaew, a rickety old smoke-belching bus, to Bangkapi, a canal boat with similar attributes, and then the MRT underground. From there, it was a ten-minute walk to the stadium. While I have a relaxed attitude toward attending games, something struck me on this occasion.

Why the PAT Stadium is Special to Me

It was similar to the times that I would walk from St John’s Wood tube to Lord’s or when I headed down North Marine Road for a day of cricket at Scarborough. The PAT Stadium approach gave me the same warm feeling inside. 

It is a scruffy place — and a dream job for any health and safety official on secondment from the UK. It has no corporate facilities but has noise, passion and raucousness. To me, it's a perfect football stadium.

There was certainly no need to seek out a tout or buy online for this match, with the 6pm midweek slot being a contributory factor in a poor turnout. There is always somewhere to sit or wander around in the large open forecourt once through the main gates from the road. 

A huge variety of street food is available in what I describe as Bangkok’s best beer garden, when there is a game on, and the atmosphere builds.

Two gents who always improve my PAT experience

My New Thai Friends

Yao (apologies if misspelt), my Thai friend, who plays great tunes via Bluetooth speaker in the fans park outside, was unusually missing. I located his mates and had a couple of beers with them before heading inside to our usual vantage point. 

I found my friend concentrating on the team doing their warmups along with his wife, Tuk. Yoa had trials with the club as a youngster, being brought up over the road from the stadium. He is well educated from time spent studying at a university in England, and now helps run the family business.

His knowledge, helpfulness, and generally great company were a joy to be around. The same applied to the rest of the gang, who positioned themselves in the corner behind the goal nearest the main stand. 

Port games attract a wide range of fans from different backgrounds and nations. I find the company of the locals the most comfortable as I get the chance to practice speaking Thai and learn from them. And they have genuine passion. It’s their club, whereas I am an expat and a guest. 

One of those who stands in the corner never misses a game, home or away. He turns up with large yellow and red cards, which he shows to the referees to offer them advice. I love it.

Time for half-time beers

Matchday Anticipation

The visitors went 1-0 ahead through Ryu Seung-woo midway through the first half. Port striker Lonsana Doumbouya had somehow headed a delicious cross from the exquisite left foot of Kevin Deeromram over the bar before that. 

He made amends by nodding him stylishly within three minutes of his side going behind. The hosts were missing opportunities galore, with away goalie Chirawat Wangthaphan making one superb save.

Time for Beers

Yoa had gone out and returned with some beers. When Madam Pang took on the role of President of the Thai FA, she handed control of the club to a relative. She was often still seen in her apartment behind where we stand and even seen at games in her Port colours. Some disapproved, saying that it wasn't a particularly good look for someone who should be maintaining neutrality.

Once again, beer was allowed back inside the stands. Muangthong fans were also allowed back in the stadium for the derby after a hiatus of nine years, while improvements were made to it. 

This included an excellent playlist before games to enhance the build-up. It was back to more relaxed times. The wall of portraits of her on the rear wall of a stand leaves nobody in any doubt about whom to thank. 

We went outside at the break, where Yoa’s mate had a stall. He served our beers and also sold some superb spicy sausage. The chat and fun were such that we missed the start of the second half, which included what would prove to be the winning goal for Khon Kaen United.

Another match. Another Disappointing Result

Port continued to huff and puff, but the lacklustre performance got no more than it deserved. The visitors did what should be expected of any team fighting relegation, as they fought and scrapped and used every trick in the book. If only the home side showed the same passion. The victors showed just how ordinary they were when, a few days later, they lost 9-0 away to Buriram United.

It's A Family Affair at Port

Enough was enough for the Port hierarchy. Head coach Rangsan Viwatchaichok had been talked out of resigning earlier in the season. This time, he was shown the door before the night was out. It was typical of Port and summed up their previous seasons. A good start with big signings before falling apart. It was a good job that there were so many poor teams in the division.

The Problems Facing a Football Club Owner

But here lies the issue. Port, BG Pathum United, and Bangkok United are relatively unchallenged by the chasing pack, yet they know they have no chance of chasing down Buriram United. 

Sacking a coach may need to be done occasionally, not least to indicate to the fans that the owners understand their disappointment. But will it really make a huge difference? I think that the only way is to be honest with fans and create a project over several years. This would mean employing without interfering and being patient. Traits that Thai club owners lack.

The corner in the B Zone where I watch from

Drowning Our Sorrows

We were oblivious to the news of the sacking, as we got stuck into more Leo’s, enjoying the evening. There was another home game to come the following week against Ratchaburi. I was pretty sure that I’d be there, but it looked like Yoa was double-booked. I'd find a way to have fun regardless, though I'd miss him.

Tuk kindly took pity on me and dropped me at the end of my village, putting up with two heavily-imbibed blokes chatting away. She deserved the Player of the Match award, as I remembered how lucky I was to have made such good friends to enjoy my football with.

Sunday Bloody (Brilliant) Sunday

 Sunday Bloody (Brilliant) Sunday

Sisaket United 2 Nakhonsi United 1

Sunday 15th December 2014

Thai League 2

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 1,302 🎟️ 80 THB (£1.80)

It had been a cold spell, relatively speaking, in the remote countryside of Sisaket by our home for a week or so. This led to me feeling a bit under the weather with a cough and chest complaint. It might also be put down to getting on in years and overdoing things for the previous month.

Winter Blues in Sisaket

As the wind howled on Saturday night, I stayed indoors and watched some EPL action using the best-known cure to man. Some single malt Scotch whisky with cheese and biscuits. Well, it certainly worked for me over many years anyway. It helped me sleep and forget the idea of missing the match the next day.

There was an extra special reason for me not to. I love my matchday, ensuring that I squeeze every last drop out of a few hours away from home. While I equally adore the peacefulness of our abode and having an occasional cycle ride and generally relaxing, it is important to have a chat in English. It is the one day of the week when I eat mostly Western food. And of course, the football fills in a couple of hours of the adventure.

Friendship Through Football

While I have no problem keeping myself entertained and going to a match alone, it is generally more enjoyable being in the company of others. It provides conversation and opinion, often pointing out things you miss in your own private cocoon. 

Indeed, it was while I was chatting to Peter, the amiable owner of Hong Kong Garden, my pre-match venue of choice, that he happened to mention expats he knew who never went anywhere and spent their lives in a room working online.

John, my friend and fellow Sisaket fan, was away for the foreseeable future. I badly missed meeting him and going to games together. In the meantime, I attended matches with friends visiting the area who seemed to enjoy the experience of what is a special part of the world to me, as well as what matchday brought. 

Indeed, it was friends visiting the previous week that would lead to me being introduced to a new ally. The write-up of that day, for those who read my scribblings, can be enjoyed here.

A New Friend

Anyway, it was in Leo’s after the match that we came across Per, a passionate Arsenal supporter from Tromsø in Norway who lived in Sisaket. If that makes any sense. My only connection to his home city is remembering Chelsea playing there on a snow-covered pitch on TV. It was a conversation ice-breaker, so to speak, especially as Per spoke good English, like most of his countrymen.

We became friends on Facebook, and I sent him a message leading up to the match. The amazing thing was that although Per loved football, he had no idea of any clubs or leagues in Thailand, which says everything about the potency of local marketing. 

The Excitement of Discovering Football in Sisaket

He seemed astonished and equally delighted when I told him I went to most home games. Even more so when he discovered that the city had a second stadium where Rasisalai United play in the third tier. 

He messaged me just as I alighted the train from Kathararom and headed for my food and beer. We later met outside the Sri Nakhon Lamduan Stadium ahead of schedule, with him as keen as mustard. 

We wandered around to the far side, where I knew there would be a better atmosphere and settled down to beers on a cold and windy night, served by the usual friendly ladies on the stall, as he tried to take it all in.

He told me of his football experiences through work, going to games in London, the expensive nature of it, and the wonderful people he had met along the way. It was great to meet someone else who was clearly enjoying the whole experience, even at an early stage.

Wonderful Memories

I often lament how I would love to find the same buzz once more as my initial taxi ride from Don Muang Airport in 2004, and seeing the incredible sights which grabbed my heartstrings, followed by a night downtown. Also, my first taste of Thai football. If someone could bottle those emotions, then surely, they’d be a millionaire. Seeing someone else getting similar enjoyment is not a bad second best.

We headed upstairs to watch. His first comment was on the state of the pitch, saying he thought it resembled The Dell, from Southampton’s old home. He knew his stuff, quickly sussing out that the ref could be easily manipulated. The hosts, pushing towards the playoff places, went ahead through Caique Ribeiro in the early exchanges.

Big Match Action

Fellow Brazilian Danilo then missed a chance that I would have been upset to fluff. Per thought it was wonderful that this previously unknown competition had Brazilians playing in it. Danilo was impressive every week with his strength and game management. 

If only the big fella could finish with the same aplomb that he is said to when polishing off meals in certain local establishments. But then again, we wouldn’t be watching him ply his trade in the second tier of Thai football if he were highly competent in front of goal.

Nakhonsi had been on an awful run of form. Despite this, they played with a surprising amount of confidence, with some clever flicks and smart passing movements. They brought around twenty fans with them, showing some real dedication to travelling nineteen hours by road. 

My friend was bang on the money when he said it was not fair to give them the worst view in the entire ground. He couldn’t believe it when I explained that they were also charged more for the privilege.

The hosts were made to pay for missing their opportunity when Bianor Neto headed home from a narrow angle from a corner with Sisaket goalie Adisak flapping like a loosely fitted letterbox as usual. 

It was soon after that that referee Piyapong Thonkhain and his nearside official got in on the act, or at least they should have done. Wongsakorn was fouled by a visiting defender, with the offence clearly inside the box. The official gave a free kick outside the area. His assistant offered no help. 

Who'd Be a Referee?

It was as well that the bloke behind me in the stand from the previous week was missing. He’d have required hospital treatment. Astonishing stuff, but highly entertaining for those without too much skin in the game.

However, it was the ref who in the end decided the game in the second half when he gave Sisaket a penalty for an offence that seemed to be making up for his previous error of judgement. The crowd certainly played their part in helping him make up his mind. They can be a feisty bunch once they’ve had a beer or two. Danilo slotted home the resulting spot kick with eleven minutes remaining on the clock. Lamduan saw the game out for another three points with another unconvincing performance. 

We headed back to where I was due to be picked up, and where Per had parked his motorbike. By the open gap below the away section, a farang was applauding the Nakhonsi side, who’d gone to acknowledge the magnificent support that they had received. We joined him.

Yet Another Farang

I commended him on his loyalty, making such a journey only for him to reveal he was a Sisaket fan who lived an hour north of the city. Si was originally from South Wales but had become a Hull City fan, the bigger club I follow in England, after he'd studied at the university there. 

It seemed inconceivable that our paths hadn’t previously crossed. He told us where he sat for home games, so hopefully, that would lead to another friendship being created by attending Thai football. 

A Near Perfect Day

What a splendid day. I was so overcome with emotion that my wife had to call my driver after I left my phone in the back of his car after dropping me off. I then recalled most of the day to her. Often repeating myself. What a lucky lady.

For reasons of which I have no idea, she went to bed and didn’t want to watch the Brighton v Crystal Palace game with me, so I made the best of the company of the remaining whisky and snacks before bed. It could well have been the last live game that I attended in 2024. I'd certainly done it justice.

The Crusher Tribute Act

Stars on Sunday

A Tribute Act to my mate Crusher from the Bloke Behind Me

 

Sisaket United 2 Chanthaburi 1

Thai League 2

Sunday 8th December 2024

Attendance: 1,311

December has always been a strange month for me. I have never really enjoyed Christmas, and all the fuss connected to it, which at times in my adult life affected me mentally. I’ve no idea why. Perhaps spending so many years as a single person or the emotion involved, along with drinking too much, possibly lowered my resolve. It has admittedly become easier since 2021 through my move to Thailand, being in a relationship, and being in a place where it’s not heavily celebrated.

A few days before Santa was getting ready to dish out gifts in 2020, it was the height of lockdown during Covid and a miserable time without seeing friends, with pubs shut down and no sport to attend. I had bought lots of food and beer and returned to my home of the time in Northwest London, and started drinking when I received the awful news that my good friend Crusher had passed away. I drank an awful lot that night.

David Johnson, to give Crusher his Christened name, and I had become friends in the early part of the 1987-88 football season. I had been aware of him at Scarborough matches, this big bloke, a couple of years older than me, who appeared to be permanently angry during a game. By then, I had begun to work as a Postman with Crusher’s dad, George. He was another of whom the term “does not suffer fools gladly” was invented. Like his son, he was extremely honest and loyal.

Sunday League teammates

I initially invited Crusher to join us in a car to a midweek away game at Hereford, and a friendship was born. We had plenty in common, be it beer, pubs, playing local football, or going to Scarborough FC, as well as cricket. Our views on life were around the same, as well as our political beliefs. 

We ended up going all over together, supporting Boro and England, both football and cricket, as well as visiting Europe and Australia and becoming teammates and drinking partners for British Gas FC while also frequenting the town's pubs together. I'm sad that, like my parents, Crusher didn't get the chance to see me enjoying life overseas as a married man, especially after all the support he gave me.

From Crusher With Love

Those who never met him are much the poorer. He was there to listen, remaining calm, offering a solution, but only if asked, and generally being a rock. He loved laughing and living life and was immensely popular, being able to tell great stories. If he had a pint, a newspaper, predominantly to do the puzzles, and some music, he was happy, particularly sitting at the bar in The Cask pub. It says it all that old mates run an annual coach to a Scarborough Athletic away game each season in tribute and to remember him.

It was in the Cask establishment that many a quiet couple got to hear Crusher if they happened to be sitting anywhere near a TV when Liverpool, his other love, were playing. His range of profanities towards the referee and several opposition players was as good as any I’ve yet to hear and formed entertainment of its own. It was repeated watching Scarborough from the terraces. 

The match officials certainly knew he was in attendance. Certain opponents got extra special treatment. I’m not sure what Russ Wilcox ever did wrong when he wore various opponents' shirts against us, but I swear his first move after running onto the pitch was to look across and listen for the first bit of feedback from the big man, which would continue for the following ninety minutes.

Among his classics was the beauty delivered to Paolo Maldini. “You’re only in the team because your dad is the manager”. Any Aussie cricketer, particularly Ricky Ponting, except for anyone playing as an overseas signing for Yorkshire, received special attention. I’m not sure I’ve ever seen a happier man when we celebrated an Ashes win together on his birthday at Sydney Cricket Ground.

I didn’t think I would ever meet anyone rattier during a game who supports a team in Thailand. There is a large lady who shouts incessantly at Port FC in the top corner of B Zone. I wouldn’t dare be late home if I lived with her, but she is more of an encouraging nature. I think. And of course, some lead the orchestrated cheering while using a megaphone. Astonishingly, clubs can be fined for audible chanting, accusations of cheating towards the officials or the administrators in Thailand. Good luck ever introducing that elsewhere.

I’m different to most fans in Thailand. While I cheer for Port FC when in Bangkok and Sisaket United when at home in Northeast Thailand, I attend any game I can and don’t get upset by the results. To me, the match is to be enjoyed as a part of my weekly day out. I generally find those ex-pats who get too involved become frustrated, somehow expecting the same experience and levels of organisation and structure as when watching football in their Western home country. That will never happen.

I find it far more fun to go along, have a few beers, have a cheer and then go home and look forward to the next game. I love it, and it plays a big part in my life. On Sunday, 8th December 2024, I met someone probably more animated than Crusher. It might yet even change the way I support Sisaket United.

Like anywhere, it is usually better when attending something with friends. Ben from Denmark, along with Noi, who lives in Bangkok as well as my wife Taew, were with me on the final day of what had been a heavy month of socialising in many different locations around the country. The match at Sri Lamduan Stadium against Chanthaburi was the ideal opportunity to round things off with a hotel stay in tow,n with the game sandwiched between a late lunch, lots of beers and then a pub at full-time. Perfect.

Our guests had been to the home game with Khon Kaen the previous year, with my Danish pal being impressed with the vitriol shown towards the referee, with comments from the main stand suggesting that his wife was from the same city as the visitors. In Bachman-Turner Overdrive mode, “He Ain’t Seen Nothin’ Yet”.

It was my suggestion that we watch from the uncovered far side, where the more vociferous fans assembled with no danger of rain on this occasion. It proved to be an inspired decision. We went upstairs after beers and snacks outside in the fan zone, enjoying the whole occasion as it should be.

I let Taew decide where to sit, and she came up trumps. The hosts went ahead within a minute when a long throw from skipper Pongsak Boontod was flicked on at the near post by Caíque Ribeiro and put away by top scorer Danilo. The big Brazilian was outstanding all evening while assisted by fellow countrymen Caique and Abner.

As ever, the Thais filled in, which often saw Danilo becoming exasperated by some of the poor game management and lack of skills around him from the natives. The tactics of coach Narongthanaphorn, who could be negative in the extreme, probably would not be a huge help.

Fans in Sisaket can be extremely passionate. It was noticeable that crowds would build throughout the game after they got away from work, with the volume increasing as beer was being consumed at regular intervals. It could go up on the dial if the opponents employed ways to frustrate or if the officials were deemed to be against the home team. Enter my new hero.

Within minutes, a Chanthaburi defender was not penalised, probably correctly. It led to some pushing and shoving between players on both sides, which ignited a tinderbox. The bloke behind me, probably in his thirties, was going berserk. He had a booming voice, which he used for the rest of the game with very few stops for breath as he abused anyone belonging to Chanthaburi as well as the match officials.

Next to him was a slender lady who never spoke a word. Was it a first date on which he was trying to impress, or perhaps she enjoyed it as much as the rest of us did? I was at a loss as to what he was shouting, but Taew’s facial expressions suggested there was lots of abuse with a hint of humour. What I’d have given to sit Crusher next to him.

The away side scored a lovely goal to restore parity, which was finished by Tongan international Ata Inia. While the Wild Rabbits were not very good, they looked dangerous going forward, led by another Brazilian, Tiago Chulapa. All three away supporters in the distant zone seemed happy.

They had been charged double the money for the experience, one thing I dislike about Thai football. Crusher would have certainly had views about it, especially if he had been plonked in there.

You could have heard a pin drop. However, it was soon back to normal. I had noticed the previous week that Chanthaburi had lost a tempestuous battle away to league leaders Phrae United in which Irish defender Clyde O'Connell had been given his marching orders. That journey by road was eleven hours, compared to less than eight to Sisaket. And people wonder why clubs struggle financially.

Not that the bloke behind me showed any sympathy for the travel or cost incurred. His abusive lexicon was continually impressive in a country famed for its hospitality.

Just past the half-hour mark, Abner made the most of finding a way to tumble in the box as he ran into an opponent. Referee Nasri Tamat pointed to the spot, a decision undoubtedly swayed by crowd pressure. Quite reasonably, the visiting team players were extremely angry. Danilo kept his cool, stepped up and slotted the penalty past the generally dodgy goalkeeper Chaloempat Ploywanratta.

The second half followed the pattern of many Lamduan home games. Sisaket decided to try to hang on to their lead. It was a tactic they consistently used in the three seasons I had become a regular. The times that they are caught out, especially since being promoted to the second tier, are surely worthy of a change of thought. Unbelievably, in the closing stages, previously unambitious Thai home players turned adventurous, making shocking decisions. I was wondering whether Danilo or the bloke behind me would pop first.

I turned around when the full-time whistle was blown to shake hands. I would have asked him for a photo, but didn’t want him to think I was taking the piss. Many locals were laughing at their fellow fan and me, thanking him and vowing to meet the following week.

Uan, our one-legged driver, a story of his own, was waiting behind the main stand to drive us to Leo’s, a wonderful bar and restaurant to see out the rest of the night. They had an offer on Guinness of buy one and get one free, while Australian striploin steaks had a big reduction in price.

There was still time to make acquaintance with Per for the first time, a Norwegian who, it transpired, lived in town and was doing his pieces while cheering on Arsenal and seeing them have two goals chalked off through VAR on TV. He was unaware of Sisaket having a professional team, the news of which seemed to make his evening, as contact details were exchanged between us, hopefully, to introduce him to a life-changing experience.

A grand day out, with England starting it by winning the Test in New Zealand. It was full of fun, and laughter surrounded by great company as beer flowed in excellent venues, soaked up with delicious food, and a rare home win too. But most of all, the bloke behind me topped it off by doing his Crusher tribute act. I hope he was the same value in a bar and in life in general.

RIP Crusher. Happy Christmas, everyone.

Bangkok Matchday Bar & Food Tips

 Bangkok Matchday Bar & Food Tips 

Having a few beers and a bite to eat is part of football traditions all around the world. Thailand is no different. This short guide will help those of you wanting to extend and make your matchday experience even more enjoyable.

Many places outside the tourist area are unlikely to be of a Western pub experience. Some English might be spoken, but all places mentioned are friendly and offer an authentic experience. Other tips are more than welcome, as well as contacting me to point out errors.

The capital is a huge metropolis. Despite this, aside from in the tourist areas, very few bars open before 4 or 5pm. Locals work, then enjoy themselves as the sun sets, as temperatures cool down a little. Outdoor bars and night markets provide plenty of options.

Those wanting pre-match beers are advised to head to the stadiums before the game, where beer will be sold. However, it is important to remember that any stadiums located in educational establishments are not permitted to sell alcohol, but turn a blind eye to those who take their own.

Sukhumvit

Another option is to remain in the tourist areas and then head to the game. Remember to allow plenty of time if you are going by road. That is even more important for evening kick-offs, when many people are heading home after work, often tripling normal distance times. Getting to the stadium early is never a bad option.

The Sportsman on Soi 13 Sukhumvit is a great option with multiscreen sports in a large venue that opens long hours. It also shows all Port FC home and away games. The Game on Sukhumvit Road below the Nana BTS station is of a similar style, but with less extensive coverage. The Clubhouse is a good alternative along similar lines for those finding themselves in Asoke. 

Club & Stadium Guide

Those heading to stadiums and wanting local options might like to try out the following.

BG Pathum United/Bangkok United

BG Stadium is a brilliant football venue with an excellent fan zone experience, which includes the air-conditioned Rabbits Bar & Restaurant. From 6pm, Kin Do Funk on Rangsit-Nakhon Nayok Road is an excellent option for food, drink, music, and watching EPL on TV. It’s on the main road back towards Rangsit and the city.

Chamchuri United/National Stadium

The newly developed area to the west of the National Stadium provides many food and drink offerings, which attract the local student community. A few blocks south, many sports shops supply amateur teams with their outfits and equipment. They also stock plenty of Thai League kits.

Customs United

There is very little at the stadium apart from a single beer and snack seller outside the turnstile. There are better options to be found in Lat Krabang on its main road, which has numerous food and bar options in a surprisingly vibrant district. Kota Bar & Café is open all day and sells a good selection of beers by Soi 11/12 on Lat Krabang Road. 

Bangkok FC

Bang Mod Stadium has the usual stalls outside the venue. The area at the end of Pracha Uthit Road looked promising on my visit for those wanting to try local establishments. Alternatively, you can take the bus back to Hua Lamphong and then explore Chinatown with the bars on Soi Nana offering decent if expensive options.

Futera United 

Futera play at Bangkok University Stadium, so it's a case of taking your own booze and drinking discreetly. A good tip on the way back to the city is to catch a bus outside the complex heading to the BTS and jump out at Yæk Kor Por Aor. The sprawling Save One Go Market has lots of food stalls and its own beer garden from 4pm, ideal for breaking a journey home after a match.

Kasem Bundit University

Another alcohol-free venue. Those wanting a meal and beer may enjoy the lakeside location provided by Rim Lagoon Café & Restaurant, which is 30 minutes on foot from the stadium. Alternatively, Chomna Bar & Terrace by the Saen Seap Canal on Ramkhamhaeng Road, which is a similar distance, might appeal. Both places are open from midday.

Kasetsart

Another university stadium, so again no beer, though plenty of food and coffee options inside the campus. The best option for those wanting local culture bar-wise appears to be to head back to the area by Pathonyothin Road. Nothing appears to be open before 5pm.

Muangthong United

Fans, including ex-pats and Curva Sud Ultras, gather under the tollway on Popular Road. N Zone fans sell cheap beer outside their access gate behind the main stand, with music being played. Those wanting an extremely expensive treat might fancy Flann O'Brien's Irish Pub by the Impact Arena. Another option from 5pm is Nap Bar on Bond Street, otherwise known as Chaeng Wattana/Pak Kred Soi 33.

North Bangkok University

The same options are available as BG Pathum United, apart from no beer being available inside the campus, so take your own. Those wanting an alternative post-match might enjoy one of the bar restaurants built on old boats across the Khlong alongside the main road. A couple of mates and I enjoyed The Woodstock.

Police Tero/Prime Bangkok

NT Stadium is served by the National Telecom MRT station on the Pink Line, with quick links back into the city. However, those wanting an authentic experience not too far away to break up their journey should read on.

On the BTS back towards the city, alight at Bang Bua station. The wonderful open-fronted Curve Bar can be found just off the main road, showing EPL and playing good tunes. There are lots of food options in a traditional local bar. A vibrant young crowd will be found with a university nearby. Its estimated opening time is 5pm.

Post-match fun at the Curve Bar

Port FC

The PAT Stadium has a wonderful fan zone at the stadium with probably as good a beer garden as anywhere in Bangkok. It is no frills, inexpensive, and buzzing with atmosphere and characters. It has the advantage of not being far from the tourist bars in a taxi, or just one stop and a walk on the MRT. It is a fantastic experience on matchdays.

Rajamanagala Stadium

There are surprisingly few bar options for a stadium of this size. Especially before an evening kick-off. Muangthong fans use a shop that sells beers and has seating outside on Ramkhamhaeng Soi 57. 

Wink Bar, south of the stadium on Ramkhamhaeng 24, Soi 30, is a good option to let the crowds die down after a game, along with other nearby establishments. The night market on Ramkhamhaeng is a good place to buy cheap snacks before the game, which can be taken into the stadium.

Royal Thai Air Force

Not too much is happening at the once busy Thupatemi Stadium. A good option, as with anyone returning from games in the Rangsit area, is to stop off at the excellent Save One Go Market by Yæk Kor Por Aor BTS station. 

It opens at 4pm and has a Chang beer garden where food can be taken in from the multitude of food stalls, while there are also plenty of clothes shopping opportunities.