Suphachalasai Stadium (Bangkok)

Suphachalasai Stadium in central Bangkok is part of the National Stadium complex, which also includes Thephasadin Stadium, next door. Just a little further along the main road stands the indoor Nimibutr Arena completing a fine array of sporting facilities.

As of 2023, the area was still in use regularly, though the Sports Authority of Thailand facility on Ramkhamhaeng Road which included the newer Rajamangala Stadium seemed to attract more events, especially large concerts.

Suphachalasai Stadium is a multi-purpose arena that was opened in 1935 with a modern capacity around of 20,000. Over the years it hosted many football internationals before the construction of Rajamangala.

Several different Thai league clubs, including Chonburi have also used the stadium, particularly for Asian Football Confederation competitions as many league grounds don't meet the criteria required while often staging domestic finals and showpiece matches, including the 2010 Kor Cup clash between Muangthong United and Port FC that ended early owing to crowd violence.

Suphachalasai was used as the main stadium for the 1966, 1970 and 1978 Asian Games. It also staged the game between Oman and Iraq in the 2007 AFC Asian Cup. Michael Jackson played two sell out concerts in the stadium in August 1993.

In 2013 the stadium was given a refurbishment and a new running track. The arena staged the athletics events in the 2023 Asian Games after being further spruced up.

My visits

April 2008

In Thailand primarily for the Chiang Mai International Cricket Sixes and a holiday afterwards, I was staying at Steve and Ea's on the outskirts of the city and decided that a day looking at the stadiums in the city was in order.

I took the sky train to the station called National Stadium, which is extremely convenient. Next door stands the Thephasadin Stadium, which was used at the time by various club sides. It was like a warmup stadium for the main structure by the looks of things.

I was delighted to see the goods entrance opened by the main gates, so I wandered in. There were many labourers readying the stadium for the next event, but a smile did the trick, and I was inside.

The stadium had a running track, but the stands were right alongside it and were steeply banked. Three sides were opened with a roof over the main straight of the track. I could easily imagine it being able to create a good atmosphere with a big crowd.

I left and found several side streets behind the covered side were the hub of sports equipment in the country. Rows and rows of shops sold replica shirts of varying authenticity at wide price ranges depending on the naivety and bargaining power of the buyer.

I found the shop of Grand Sport, the company that provided kits to many Thai League teams and bought a few shirts for my collection. I just wish Thai sizes were the same as in the UK!

Monday 28th October 2013

With the day to myself following a brilliant couple of weeks in Thailand and the Cricket Sixes complete, with my travelling companions heading home I decided to fill in the day before my evening flight home.

I’d called in to take photos next door at Thephasadin Stadium before once again finding the huge corner gate open into the main arena. Construction work was going on to the running track. The seating areas looked in brilliant condition, as did the pitch which was being watered.

I took time out to walk right around the stadium, and inside the concourse which housed many of the nation’s sporting institutions, including the National Refereeing Institute, The Sports Association for the Disabled of Thailand, and the FA of Thailand. I got an unobstructed view through the railed gates from the far end of the arena.

Outside I stopped to watch and film some local lads playing the Thai football game of takraw, which is like head tennis played on training grounds around the world. The difference in Thailand is that the ball is made of woven rattan which can be seen here on the video I took.

Like on my previous visit, I wanted to return home with a souvenir, so I went in search of the shops selling team shirts, which I discovered to be around Chulalongkorn 2 and 4. There was lots of choice for anyone not of such a full figure, but after plenty of perusal, I bought a fine Chamchuri United top for around a tenner.

I headed back to Asoke to drain the last drop out of my stay before heading to the airport after another amazing holiday in the Land of Smiles.

Thursday 29th October 2015

I was in Bangkok following the Thailand International Cricket Sixes. After the tournament, we visited Pattaya before returning to the capital, where I undertook the role of tour guide to a trio of mates. I had a big day planned for us all, which covered most bases.

After a pleasant lunch, we headed on the Sky Train to the National Stadium so that my mates could look inside and take photos. The gate was open, and the place was deserted so we had could take our time.

Once we were done, we took taxis to the Grand Palace, on a riverboat trip on the Chao Phraya River, a wander down Khao San Road and then an evening's Thai boxing at the Ratchadamnoen Boxing Stadium to round off a magnificent day.

Muang Thong United 2 Chiangrai United 0 (Wednesday 22^nd November 2017) Thai League Cup Final (16,788)

Luck was finally on my side to enable me to watch a game at Supachalasai Stadium while I enjoyed a few days holiday in Bangkok following the 2017 Thailand International Cricket Sixes.

The Thai FA can be sometimes erratic with their planning, but this time they came up trumps. Indeed, if I had been staying a few days longer I would have also had the opportunity to attend the FA Cup final.

The event had gone well personally as an administrator, even if not on the pitch for the touring Beer Battered Seadogs. We’d enjoyed every minute together in a great city. The last of the boys had gone home on the morning of the match, to allow me some downtime.

And boy I needed it, to let the body and mind rest and allow for a bit of personal pampering without having to consider others or be anywhere at a set time.

After moving from the Windsor Suites Hotel, I decided to give the famous Nana Hotel a go. It turned out to be a bit of a mistake, with the room having no windows and dated average facilities to boot. The location, however, was excellent.

It provided everything for any tourist in search of food, drinks, and various forms of entertainment within a few yards. I wasn't going to be spending much time indoors after all.

I’d booked the match tickets online by opening an account with Thai Ticket Major for myself and Steve Walker, who was to head into the city after work. My instructions were to collect the tickets from one of their several outlets.

I headed to Siam Central in the heart of the city and found the ticket desk on the seventh floor. It’s fair to say that I was less than impressed to be told that I needed to pick them up before the match at the stadium.

There had been no indication of this in my confirmation email. The lady said it was the norm from seven days before an event. This would have taken some doing as tickets only went on sale nine days before the final. It was Thai bureaucracy at its best.

Following a much-needed siesta, I met Steve in Starbucks by the main intersection. We had lots of time to kill, so once I’d used his phone for a call with fellow Chiang Mai International Cricket Sixes committee man George Appleton, we decided to walk to the stadium.

It proved a prudent plan as several buildings on the route offered desperately appreciated facilities. The hot Bangkok weather and an unhealthy diet eventually did for me.

Crowds were building from the Nimibutr Indoor Stadium and then outside Thephasadin Stadium, primarily with Muang Thong supporters, despite there being just under three hours until kick-off. It promised a decent atmosphere for the match.

A security check was required to enter the main forecourt outside the National or Supachalasai Stadium. Inside the crowds were larger as both clubs had souvenir stalls set up, and several sponsors promoted their wares.

The queue for tickets was painless. Larger queues formed for fans to have their photo taken with the League Cup. The whole atmosphere was vibrant but relaxed. We continued round to where our entrance would be to the stadium.

Fortunately, further facilities had been provided outside. It gave me a surreal moment in the loos, listening to Steve trying to explain to the local police where Scarborough was and what league the Boro played in, as we were both wearing replica shirts.

Eventually, we found our way to what I thought was a familiar area near the new Chula University buildings. The whole area had received a makeover since my previous visit, with lots of new little squares and modern constructions appearing.

It looked like they had replaced the old area selling football shirts and equipment. A decent-sized group of Chiangrai fans had gathered to set up an impromptu party around food and drink vendors.

After I had taken some tablets for my tummy issues, we decided to eat in one of the many local outlets. Steve went for the beef stew on rice, while I had the Chinese-style chicken in sauce with rice. The food was exceptional, even if the portions were small. Each dish cost 50 Baht, which was just over £1 at the exchange rate of the time.

Walking back towards the stadium I suddenly noticed the football shops. We had been a block out. As time was on our side, I had the opportunity to check out and find my nephew Stan a couple of kits. The Paris St Germain and AS Roma sets cost a combined total of 500 Baht.

Delighted with my purchases we headed back to the stadium, with just under an hour to kick off. We had to go right back to the far end and gain admission through security once again. We had another check before reaching our gate and had our hand stamped in case we wanted to pop out for food and drink.

I had bought us the most expensive tickets for 150 Baht down the main side and under the huge roof in the Chiangrai United section, just in case of any heavy showers. We had been caught out in the past at Port’s TAT Stadium and didn’t want it happening again.

Seats were unreserved, so we found a decent place towards the back. The arena gradually began to fill, with the MTU section already busy with fans signing and hanging their banners.

There had been an expose of bribery and match-fixing charges involving players of Sisaket and Navy, as well as match officials a few days before the final. This was not a huge surprise to regular viewers who’d long suspected that some referees could not be so accidentally incompetent.

The Muang Thong fans displayed a banner saying Money Cannot Buy History, as a dig at the heavily spending Chiangrai. While history was not available for cash, it was claimed that some referees were.

CRU are the furthest northern side in the competition, so their support was always going to be dwarfed by that of the local side MTU. Their mission hadn’t been made easy by the planning of the Thai FA.

Chiangrai had also reached the final of the FA Cup, which was taking place against Bangkok United the following Saturday. This meant any fans travelling by road would arrive back in their northern city after the match and then set off again twenty-four hours later if they were to attend both games.

Despite this, The Beetles had a decent following; no doubt boosted by neutrals and several Port fans who would cheer for the underdogs and naturally disliked all things MTU. Steve and I fitted those categories.

As the teams came out the MTU tried to put on a banner display similar to the ones seen at German stadia. Hilariously they tried to show 1989 to signify the year of their foundation on four separate sheets. Those in charge of one sheet had it back to front and then upside down to the hilarity of everyone else.

To see the arrival of the teams and the King's Anthem, click here.

There was no doubt that Muang Thong was the ultimate corporate machine with Ultra fans, a smart purpose-built stadium, big sponsors, and star players. It could have been Manchester United, right down to the playing kit.

Like the English version, they also got the rub of the green with every 50/50 decision, or so it seemed. It was to be the case once again as referee Siwakorn Phoo-udom did his absolute best to oblige.

Teerasil Dangda was undoubtedly a talented footballer and the darling of the Thai game, but he may as well have refereed the match himself. He could have easily been shown a yellow card on three occasions, yet if a defender went near him, he received a free kick.

Brazilian midfielder Heberty Fernandes also looked to simulate and look for assistance from the officials. I far preferred the excellent play of left-back Theerathon Bunmathan.

Chiang Rai played some fine football, with their Brazilian forward Rafael Coelho doing his best to lead the line. In truth, they were missing a big man up front to put pressure on the shaky MTU defence. They escaped far too many times.

The game ebbed and flowed and was decent enough until the deadlock was broken ten minutes before the break. Heberty was adjudged to have been fouled around twenty-five yards out. His free kick was excellently saved by Chatchai Budprom, but full-back Peerapat Notchaiya followed up to smash the ball home from an acute angle.

CRU came out to give it a real go in the second half, cheered on by their appreciative rather than fanatical following. They really did miss a decent forward. Despite having plenty of play and plenty of pressure, they didn’t have the vital cutting-edge.

The game was decided on the hour mark. MTU soaked up the pressure before a fine slide rule pass sent in Teerasil to slot home and make it 2-0 to the elation of the Kirins fans behind the goal.  

To Chiang Rai’s credit, they continued to do their best, when it must have been tempting to save some energy for the FA Cup Final a few days later. Midfielder Everton Gonçalves was sent off in the final minute of normal time with a second yellow card.

We made our way down to the front and then out of the gate in the hope of beating the MTU crowds to the main road and transport systems. It didn’t quite pan out that way.

The queues were already huge for the BTS Sky Train, so we set off walking. The traffic was piling out of MBK and Siam shopping and entertainment complexes at the same time as the football finished leading to large traffic snarl-ups.

Steve went ahead to try and get a cab to Minburi. I toyed with several ideas before I too hailed a taxi back to Nana. The traffic was so bad that my driver found it quicker going south through Khlong Toei, up to Asoke and then down the opposite side of Sukhumvit Road.

Once I’d dumped my gear in my room I headed out for a few beers. I had a relaxed few in Speakeasy on Soi 15 catching up on the week's football highlights before heading to the Bier Garden for an entertaining hour or so.

It had been a decent evening night out, even if the match result wasn’t as I would have preferred. I awoke the next day in fine form and headed to the Kiwi Bar to watch the opening day’s play in The Ashes. That was a whole new tale!

SRV FC 4 Sarawittaya School 1 (Monday 28^th August 2023) Thailand Prime Minister Cup u16 Bangkok Zone (att: c100)

Occasionally random friendly games with amateurs crop up so I check out my saved clubs on Facebook a couple of times a week. One, Bangkapi FC showed a video of their juniors in action, so I explored further, finding that two semifinals were being played at Supachalasai National Stadium.

With a few spare hours and nothing on at home, I made the decision to head out for the day knowing that I was going to the Muangthong United v Port game later that evening. A couple of different took me to Bangkapi. 

From there boat down the canal went directly into the city from where it was a short walk to the stadium, which had seen its surroundings engulfed in recent years in a similar fashion to Wembley Stadium, only in a more pleasant environment. It really had changed since my first visit.

Armed with drinks and snacks from the local 7/11 I entered the main stand and tried to decipher who the teams were. I had a schedule along with the two initial groups on my phone, which Google Translate helped me with. 

I was initially confused on arrival midway through the first half as when there was a break for drinks as both sides got their water from the nearest bench plus everyone was wearing the same shorts and socks. 

I saw some spectators wearing the name of SRV on their backs, and did a Google and Facebook search which took me to the school which had its own football page, where low and behold the game was being screened live. 

I sought out the commentator and at halftime, he confirmed that both teams were from the same establishment. There was no schoolmate stuff around the match mind, with Sarawittaya on top before SRV took the lead before the break. 

They extended the lead before it went back to 2-1. As the limbs tired on a stunning afternoon and play became stretched on the full-sized pitch in superb surroundings another couple of goals followed.

Excellent fun, as the second two semifinalists limbered up for their later 4.15pm clash waiting for their turn in such an impressive location. It was good to see the facility being utilised properly, with such a good playing surface allowing the youngsters to portray their talent.

My visit is covered here in the first part of the video made for 

A Thai Football Podcast.

The final was at the same venue at 3.30 on Thursday but I decided another trek into the city for that one, was a bit too much. At full time I headed by sky train to Victory Monument hoping the info my travel app was throwing up was accurate so that I could beat the traffic in time for beers in Nonthaburi.