Ground: Suphachalasai Stadium
Capacity: 19,793
Opened: 1938
Team: Thailand National Team (former) Neutral Venue (current level)
Many new venues have been opened around Bangkok, while Suphachalasai is considered the grand old lady of stadiums in Thailand, with a fine history in an ideal location.
Stadium Background
Over the years, the stadium hosted many football internationals before the construction of Rajamangala. Several different Thai league clubs, including Chonburi, have also used the stadium for Asian Football Confederation competitions, as many league grounds don't meet the required criteria.
It also often staged domestic finals and showpiece matches, including the 2010 Kor Cup clash between Muangthong United and Port FC that ended early owing to crowd violence. Suphachalasai was used as the main stadium for the Asian Games on three occasions, as well as hosting the game between Oman and Iraq in the 2007 AFC Asian Cup.
Michael Jackson played two sold-out concerts in the stadium, before in 2013, the stadium was given a refurbishment and a new running track. The arena staged the athletics events in the Asian Games twenty years later after being given a further spruce up.
In November 2025, the final match of the 7HD Champion Cup 2025 seven-a-side student football tournament, shown live on national TV, saw a crowd of 35,000 pack inside the stadium, causing chaos.
My visits
Stadium Visit - April 2008
In Thailand, primarily for the Chiang Mai International Cricket Sixes and a holiday afterwards, I was staying at Steve and Ea's on the outskirts of the city and decided that a day looking at the stadiums in the city was in order.
I took the sky train to the station called National Stadium, which is extremely convenient. Next door stands the Thephasadin Stadium, which was used at the time by various club sides. It was like a warm-up stadium for the main structure by the looks of things.
The stadium had a running track, but the stands were right alongside it and were steeply banked. Three sides were opened with a roof over the main straight of the track. I could easily imagine it being able to create a good atmosphere with a big crowd.
I found the shop of Grand Sport, the company that provided kits to many Thai League teams and bought a few shirts for my collection. I just wish Thai sizes were the same as in the UK!
Stadium Visit - Monday 28th October 2013
I’d called in to take photos next door at Thephasadin Stadium before once again finding the huge corner gate open into the main arena. Construction work was going on on the running track. The seating areas looked in brilliant condition, as did the pitch, which was being watered.
Outside, I stopped to watch and film some local lads playing the Thai football game of takraw, which is like head tennis played on training grounds around the world. The difference in Thailand is that the ball is made of woven rattan, which can be seen here in the video I took.
I headed back to Asoke to drain the last drop out of my stay before heading to the airport after another amazing holiday in the Land of Smiles.
I was in Bangkok following the Thailand International Cricket Sixes. After the tournament, we visited Pattaya before returning to the capital, where I undertook the role of tour guide to a trio of mates. I had a big day planned for us all, which covered most bases.
Once we were done, we took taxis to the Grand Palace, on a riverboat trip on the Cha Phraya River, a wander down Khao San Road and then an evening's Thai boxing at the Ratchadamnoen Boxing Stadium to round off a magnificent day.
Muang Thong United 2 Chiangrai United 0
Muang Thong United 2 Chiangrai United 0
Thai League Cup Final - Wednesday 22nd November 2017
👨👨👧👧 16,788 🎟️ 150 THB (£3.60)
Ticket Chaos
Ticket Chaos
Luck was finally on my side to enable me to watch a game at Supachalasai Stadium while I enjoyed a few days' holiday in Bangkok following the 2017 Thailand International Cricket Sixes.
The Thai FA can sometimes be erratic with their planning, but this time they came up trumps. Indeed, if I had been staying a few days longer, I would have also had the opportunity to attend the FA Cup final.
The event had gone well personally as an administrator, even if not on the pitch for the touring Beer Battered Seadogs. We’d enjoyed every minute together in a great city. The last of the boys had gone home on the morning of the match, to allow me some downtime.
And boy, I needed it, to let the body and mind rest and allow for a bit of personal pampering without having to consider others or be anywhere at a set time.
After moving from the Windsor Suites Hotel, I decided to give the famous Nana Hotel a go. It turned out to be a bit of a mistake, with the room having no windows and dated, average facilities to boot. The location, however, was excellent.
It provided everything for any tourist in search of food, drinks, and various forms of entertainment within a few yards. I wasn't going to be spending much time indoors after all.
I’d booked the match tickets online by opening an account with Thai Ticket Major for myself and Steve Walker, who was to head into the city after work. My instructions were to collect the tickets from one of their several outlets.
I headed to Siam Central in the heart of the city and found the ticket desk on the seventh floor. It’s fair to say that I was less than impressed to be told that I needed to pick them up before the match at the stadium.
There had been no indication of this in my confirmation email. The lady said it was the norm from seven days before an event. This would have taken some doing as tickets only went on sale nine days before the final. It was Thai bureaucracy at its best.
Following a much-needed siesta, I met Steve in Starbucks by the main intersection. We had lots of time to kill, so once I’d used his phone for a call with fellow Chiang Mai International Cricket Sixes committee man George Appleton, we decided to walk to the stadium.
Pre-Match Build Up
The Thai FA can sometimes be erratic with their planning, but this time they came up trumps. Indeed, if I had been staying a few days longer, I would have also had the opportunity to attend the FA Cup final.
The event had gone well personally as an administrator, even if not on the pitch for the touring Beer Battered Seadogs. We’d enjoyed every minute together in a great city. The last of the boys had gone home on the morning of the match, to allow me some downtime.
And boy, I needed it, to let the body and mind rest and allow for a bit of personal pampering without having to consider others or be anywhere at a set time.
After moving from the Windsor Suites Hotel, I decided to give the famous Nana Hotel a go. It turned out to be a bit of a mistake, with the room having no windows and dated, average facilities to boot. The location, however, was excellent.
It provided everything for any tourist in search of food, drinks, and various forms of entertainment within a few yards. I wasn't going to be spending much time indoors after all.
I’d booked the match tickets online by opening an account with Thai Ticket Major for myself and Steve Walker, who was to head into the city after work. My instructions were to collect the tickets from one of their several outlets.
I headed to Siam Central in the heart of the city and found the ticket desk on the seventh floor. It’s fair to say that I was less than impressed to be told that I needed to pick them up before the match at the stadium.
There had been no indication of this in my confirmation email. The lady said it was the norm from seven days before an event. This would have taken some doing as tickets only went on sale nine days before the final. It was Thai bureaucracy at its best.
Following a much-needed siesta, I met Steve in Starbucks by the main intersection. We had lots of time to kill, so once I’d used his phone for a call with fellow Chiang Mai International Cricket Sixes committee man George Appleton, we decided to walk to the stadium.
Pre-Match Build Up
It proved a prudent plan as several buildings on the route offered desperately appreciated facilities. The hot Bangkok weather and an unhealthy diet eventually did for me.
Crowds were building from the Nimibutr Indoor Stadium and then outside Thephasadin Stadium, primarily with Muang Thong supporters, despite there being just under three hours until kick-off. It promised a decent atmosphere for the match.
A security check was required to enter the main forecourt outside the National or Supachalasai Stadium. Inside the crowds were larger as both clubs had souvenir stalls set up, and several sponsors promoted their wares.
The queue for tickets was painless. Larger queues formed for fans to have their photo taken with the League Cup. The whole atmosphere was vibrant but relaxed. We continued around to where our entrance would be to the stadium.
Fortunately, further facilities had been provided outside. It gave me a surreal moment in the loos, listening to Steve trying to explain to the local police where Scarborough was and what league the Boro played in, as we were both wearing replica shirts.
Eventually, we found our way to what I thought was a familiar area near the new Chula University buildings. The whole area had received a makeover since my previous visit, with lots of new little squares and modern constructions appearing.
It looked like they had replaced the old area, selling football shirts and equipment. A decent-sized group of Chiangrai fans had gathered to set up an impromptu party around food and drink vendors.
After I had taken some tablets for my tummy issues, we decided to eat in one of the many local outlets. Steve went for the beef stew on rice, while I had the Chinese-style chicken in sauce with rice. The food was exceptional, even if the portions were small. Each dish cost 50 Baht, which was just over £1 at the exchange rate of the time.
Walking back towards the stadium, I suddenly noticed the football shops. We had been a block out. As time was on our side, I had the opportunity to check out and find my nephew Stan a couple of kits. The Paris Saint-Germain and AS Roma sets cost a combined total of 500 Baht.
Delighted with my purchases, we headed back to the stadium, with just under an hour to kick off. We had to go right back to the far end and gain admission through security once again. We had another check before reaching our gate and had our hands stamped in case we wanted to pop out for food and drink.
I had bought us the most expensive tickets for 150 Baht down the main side and under the huge roof in the Chiangrai United section, just in case of any heavy showers. We had been caught out in the past at Port’s TAT Stadium and didn’t want it to happen again.
Seats were unreserved, so we found a decent place towards the back. The arena gradually began to fill, with the MTU section already busy with fans signing and hanging their banners.
There had been an exposé of bribery and match-fixing charges involving players of Sisaket and Navy, as well as a match official, a few days before the final. This was not a huge surprise to regular viewers who’d long suspected that some referees could not be so accidentally incompetent.
The Muang Thong fans displayed a banner saying Money Cannot Buy History, as a dig at the heavily spending Chiangrai. While history was not available for cash, it was claimed that some referees were.
CRU, as the furthest northern side in the competition, meant their support was always going to be dwarfed by that of the local side, MTU. Their mission hadn’t been made easy by the planning of the Thai FA.
Chiangrai had also reached the final of the FA Cup, which was taking place against Bangkok United the following Saturday. This meant any fans travelling by road would arrive back in their northern city after the match and then set off again twenty-four hours later if they were to attend both games.
Despite this, the Beetles had a decent following; no doubt boosted by neutrals and several Port fans who would cheer for the underdogs and naturally disliked all things MTU. Steve and I fit those categories.
As the teams came out, the MTU tried to put on a banner display similar to the ones seen at German stadiums. Hilariously, they tried to show 1989 to signify the year of their foundation on four separate sheets. Those in charge of one sheet had it back to front and then upside down, to the hilarity of everyone else.
Crowds were building from the Nimibutr Indoor Stadium and then outside Thephasadin Stadium, primarily with Muang Thong supporters, despite there being just under three hours until kick-off. It promised a decent atmosphere for the match.
A security check was required to enter the main forecourt outside the National or Supachalasai Stadium. Inside the crowds were larger as both clubs had souvenir stalls set up, and several sponsors promoted their wares.
The queue for tickets was painless. Larger queues formed for fans to have their photo taken with the League Cup. The whole atmosphere was vibrant but relaxed. We continued around to where our entrance would be to the stadium.
Fortunately, further facilities had been provided outside. It gave me a surreal moment in the loos, listening to Steve trying to explain to the local police where Scarborough was and what league the Boro played in, as we were both wearing replica shirts.
Eventually, we found our way to what I thought was a familiar area near the new Chula University buildings. The whole area had received a makeover since my previous visit, with lots of new little squares and modern constructions appearing.
It looked like they had replaced the old area, selling football shirts and equipment. A decent-sized group of Chiangrai fans had gathered to set up an impromptu party around food and drink vendors.
After I had taken some tablets for my tummy issues, we decided to eat in one of the many local outlets. Steve went for the beef stew on rice, while I had the Chinese-style chicken in sauce with rice. The food was exceptional, even if the portions were small. Each dish cost 50 Baht, which was just over £1 at the exchange rate of the time.
Walking back towards the stadium, I suddenly noticed the football shops. We had been a block out. As time was on our side, I had the opportunity to check out and find my nephew Stan a couple of kits. The Paris Saint-Germain and AS Roma sets cost a combined total of 500 Baht.
Delighted with my purchases, we headed back to the stadium, with just under an hour to kick off. We had to go right back to the far end and gain admission through security once again. We had another check before reaching our gate and had our hands stamped in case we wanted to pop out for food and drink.
I had bought us the most expensive tickets for 150 Baht down the main side and under the huge roof in the Chiangrai United section, just in case of any heavy showers. We had been caught out in the past at Port’s TAT Stadium and didn’t want it to happen again.
Seats were unreserved, so we found a decent place towards the back. The arena gradually began to fill, with the MTU section already busy with fans signing and hanging their banners.
There had been an exposé of bribery and match-fixing charges involving players of Sisaket and Navy, as well as a match official, a few days before the final. This was not a huge surprise to regular viewers who’d long suspected that some referees could not be so accidentally incompetent.
The Muang Thong fans displayed a banner saying Money Cannot Buy History, as a dig at the heavily spending Chiangrai. While history was not available for cash, it was claimed that some referees were.
CRU, as the furthest northern side in the competition, meant their support was always going to be dwarfed by that of the local side, MTU. Their mission hadn’t been made easy by the planning of the Thai FA.
Chiangrai had also reached the final of the FA Cup, which was taking place against Bangkok United the following Saturday. This meant any fans travelling by road would arrive back in their northern city after the match and then set off again twenty-four hours later if they were to attend both games.
Despite this, the Beetles had a decent following; no doubt boosted by neutrals and several Port fans who would cheer for the underdogs and naturally disliked all things MTU. Steve and I fit those categories.
As the teams came out, the MTU tried to put on a banner display similar to the ones seen at German stadiums. Hilariously, they tried to show 1989 to signify the year of their foundation on four separate sheets. Those in charge of one sheet had it back to front and then upside down, to the hilarity of everyone else.
The Match
There was no doubt that Muang Thong was the ultimate corporate machine of the day with Ultra fans, a smart purpose-built stadium, big sponsors, and star players. It could have been Manchester United, right down to the playing kit.
Like the English version, they also got the rub of the green with every 50/50 decision, or so it seemed. It was to be the case once again as referee Siwakorn Phoo-udom did his absolute best to oblige. Teerasil Dangda was undoubtedly a talented footballer and the darling of the Thai game, but he may as well have refereed the match himself.
Like the English version, they also got the rub of the green with every 50/50 decision, or so it seemed. It was to be the case once again as referee Siwakorn Phoo-udom did his absolute best to oblige. Teerasil Dangda was undoubtedly a talented footballer and the darling of the Thai game, but he may as well have refereed the match himself.
He could have easily been shown a yellow card on three occasions, yet if a defender went near him, he received a free kick. Brazilian midfielder Heberty also looked to simulate and look for assistance from the officials. I far preferred the excellent play of left-back Theerathon Bunmathan.
Chiang Rai played some fine football, with their Brazilian forward Rafael Coelho doing his best to lead the line. In truth, they were missing a big man up front to put pressure on the shaky MTU defence. They escaped far too many times.
The game ebbed and flowed and was decent enough until the deadlock was broken ten minutes before the break. Heberty was adjudged to have been fouled around twenty-five yards out. His free kick was excellently saved by Chatchai Budprom, but full-back Peerapat Notchaiya followed up to smash the ball home from an acute angle.
CRU came out to give it a real go in the second half, cheered on by their appreciative rather than fanatical following. They really did miss a decent forward. Despite having plenty of play and plenty of pressure, they didn’t have the vital cutting edge.
The game was decided on the hour mark. MTU soaked up the pressure before a fine slide rule pass sent in Teerasil to slot home and make it 2-0 to the elation of the Kirins fans behind the goal. To Chiang Rai’s credit, they continued to do their best when it must have been tempting to save some energy for the FA Cup Final a few days later.
Midfielder Everton Gonçalves was sent off in the final minute of normal time with a second yellow card. We made our way down to the front and then out of the gate in the hope of beating the MTU crowds to the main road and transport systems. It didn’t quite pan out that way.
Post Match Fun
The queues were already huge for the BTS Skytrain, so we set off walking. The traffic was piling out of MBK and Siam shopping and entertainment complexes at the same time as the football finished, leading to large traffic snarl-ups.
Steve went ahead to try to get a cab to Minburi. I toyed with several ideas before I too hailed a taxi back to Nana. The traffic was so bad that my driver found it quicker going south through Khlong Toei, up to Asoke and then down the opposite side of Sukhumvit Road.
Steve went ahead to try to get a cab to Minburi. I toyed with several ideas before I too hailed a taxi back to Nana. The traffic was so bad that my driver found it quicker going south through Khlong Toei, up to Asoke and then down the opposite side of Sukhumvit Road.
Once I’d dumped my gear in my room, I headed out for a few beers. I had a relaxed few hours in Speakeasy on Soi 15 catching up on the week's football highlights before heading to the Bier Garden for an entertaining hour or so.
It had been a decent evening out, even if the match result wasn’t as I would have preferred. I awoke the next day in fine form and headed to the Kiwi Bar to watch the opening day’s play in The Ashes. That was a whole new tale!
SRV FC 4 Sarawittaya School 1
Thailand Prime Minister Cup u16 Bangkok Zone - Monday 28th August 2023
👨👨👧👧 c100 🎟️ Free
An Unexpected Treat
Occasionally, random friendly games with amateurs crop up, so I check out my saved clubs on Facebook a couple of times a week. One, Bangkapi FC showed a video of their juniors in action, so I explored further, finding that two semifinals were being played at Supachalasai National Stadium.
With a few spare hours and nothing on at home, I made the decision to head out for the day, knowing that I was going to the Muangthong United v Port game later that evening. I took a bus to Bangkapi, then the boat down the canal directly into the city.
With a few spare hours and nothing on at home, I made the decision to head out for the day, knowing that I was going to the Muangthong United v Port game later that evening. I took a bus to Bangkapi, then the boat down the canal directly into the city.
From there, it was a short walk to the stadium, which had seen its surroundings engulfed in recent years in a similar fashion to Wembley Stadium, only in a more pleasant environment. It really had changed since my first visit.
Armed with drinks and snacks from the local 7/11, I entered the main stand and tried to decipher which teams were playing and in which kit. I had a schedule along with the two initial groups on my phone, which Google Translate helped me with.
Confusion Solved
Confusion Solved
I was initially confused on arrival, midway through the first half, as when there was a break for drinks, both sides got their water from the nearest bench, plus everyone was wearing the same shorts and socks.
I saw some spectators wearing the name of SRV on their backs, and did a Google and Facebook search, which took me to the school, which had its own football page, where, lo and behold, the game was being screened live.
A Competitive Match
A Competitive Match
I sought out the commentator, and at halftime, he confirmed that both teams were from the same establishment. There was no schoolmate stuff around the match mind, with Sarawittaya on top before SRV took the lead before the break.
They extended the lead before it went back to 2-1. As the limbs tired on a stunning afternoon and play became stretched on the full-sized pitch in superb surroundings, another couple of goals followed.
Excellent fun, as the second two semifinalists limbered up for their later 4.15pm clash, waiting for their turn in such an impressive location. It was good to see the facility being utilised properly, with such a good playing surface allowing the youngsters to portray their talent.
Excellent fun, as the second two semifinalists limbered up for their later 4.15pm clash, waiting for their turn in such an impressive location. It was good to see the facility being utilised properly, with such a good playing surface allowing the youngsters to portray their talent.
The final was at the same venue at 3.30 a few days later, but I decided another trek into the city for that one was a bit too much. At full time, I headed by sky train to Victory Monument, hoping the info my travel app was throwing up was accurate so that I could beat the traffic in time for beers in Nonthaburi.
My visit is covered here in the first part of the video made for
A Thai Football Podcast
A Thai Football Podcast
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