The Remarkable Rise of Rasisalai United

 

The Remarkable Rise of Rasisalai United

My tribute as a regular attendee to Rasisalai United, a club that has achieved great things in a relatively short time. 

Written April 2026

When Nuchanart (Nuch) Jaruwongsatian set about forming Rasisalai United as a youth side back in 2019, I don’t suppose she thought that, realistically, seven years later, her little club would be playing in the top tier of Thai football against the likes of Buriram United, BG Pathum United and Port FC.

But that’s the reality. It’s an amazing story which shows that staying loyal to local players with a real affinity to the club and their teammates, and then astute foreign signings, can make a world of difference and elevate a well-run side all the way to the summit.

It’s even more astonishing a story when considering that for their first two years, football was severely disrupted by the pandemic. However, the Thailand Amateur League, which was shoehorned into the middle months of 2022, offered a sense of what success felt like to the Monkey Kings, as Rasi are nicknamed.

A 3-0 win against Roi-Et 2018 on their opponents' home pitch sent Rasisalai into the Thai League 3 for the following season. Momentum continued to build, as they then defeated Kongkrilas United, Warship United, and Muang Trang United in the final to become national amateur champions.

Sisaket SAT Stadium under the lights

Their home leg in the showpiece was played at Sri Nakhon Lamduan Stadium, home of province neighbours, Sisaket United, before the club became tenants at the SAT Stadium, once among the provincial ranks.

I have used the word, neighbours advisedly, as Sisaket is somewhat of a throwback to how football used to be in many English cities where two clubs existed. Rasi do not have a sufficient venue in their hometown, around 40-minutes away on the banks of the River Mun, meaning that they play in the capital of the province, with football fans going to watch whoever is at home.

While segregation is in place at the derby games, there is little need for it as everyone gets on, with many cheering for the side on the other side of the fence the following week.

In their debut season in the league, Rasi finished third and dashed the title hopes of Sisaket with a 1-0 home win. Sisaket went on to win T3 Northeast in 2023-24, along with promotion, while Rasi ended in a disappointing eighth place. Just 69 fans attended their home match on a Wednesday afternoon against Muang Loei United, with many of those attending leaving at the interval to watch Sisaket take on Khon Kaen Mordingdang in the later kick-off.

Action under the Tower. It sure beats Blackpool

Nuch made a superb appointment ahead of the 2024-25 campaign when coach Arnon Bandasak was brought in. He signed his former star from his time at Phitsanulok, the veteran forward, Gilberto Macena. Defender Ramon Mesquita, another player with vast experience, was signed to skipper the side, while fellow Brazilian Alberto Gouvea smashed away the goals.

We met Alberto as a fellow spectator at the opening Sisaket match of the season, and he pronounced he would score lots of goals. He wasn’t joking. Rasisalai simply blew away opponent after opponent with their fast-attacking play. Some of their matches were truly brilliant, including an amazing win against Pattani in the playoffs, which went a long way to securing promotion before the T3 national title was secured against Songkhla.

The atmosphere at the two derby games and the crowds of over 4,000 were simply breathtaking, with a real party atmosphere and superb action on the pitch. There is little wonder that interest continued to develop throughout the season as to what was going on in the northeast.

The team bus

One of the great joys of watching Rasisalai is their vulnerability at the back, which means they attack even more. The incredible 2025-26 season has seen them promoted with four games to spare. Teams simply have no answer despite often scoring and being on top for parts of a game. The only times that Rasi have looked vulnerable have been in the derby against Sisaket, with Ramon missing in the away defeat, and when injuries have depleted important areas.

The real key behind their success, alongside the astute foreign signings and veteran goalkeeper Sakkongpop Sukprasert, is the midfield twins of Nattapon and Natchanon Yongsakool. Indeed, when studying the teamsheet from the Amateur final of 2022, it is interesting to note that six of the side are still regulars, having gone through the divisions and learned together as friends. 

Bids were turned down for the twins, who have both missed games through injury when the only slight wobble occurred. They are dynamic, skilful, dangerous from set pieces and a joy to watch from a very special vantage position.

My friend John, who I watch Sisaket and Rasi, is a member of the gym where the Rasisalai players train. He's got to know them and coach Arnon, as well as the partners of some of the team and their offspring. In T3, we would simply choose the best seat in the main stand, which happened to be in the VIP area, with no questions asked, because stewarding wasn't required. We've continued to sit there around the dignitaries and those connected with the club, including Arnon when he served a touchline ban.

We sit somewhere in there

While I'm no fan of corporate seating as I prefer to be candid, have a good drink, and enjoy a match without watching my P's and Q's, it has been fun watching a season play out among those who have a far greater interest. Sure, I am delighted that Rasi have gone up, but I would have preferred Sisaket to pip them to the title. Whether Sisaket will join Rasisalai in the top-flight next season hangs in the balance as I pen this piece.

Huge credit too must go to Nuch. It’s fair to say that she can become emotional at times and will serve a ban until the end of the season for her antics against Pattaya United. But she has created a club with a lovely atmosphere that appeals to more youngsters than traditionalists. And she certainly cares. She is friendly to everyone who attends and will be sure to get plenty of attention next season.

The club sells lots of merchandise. The adoption of green and white hoops as an away kit has seen unprecedented sales. Ticket prices have remained at 60 Baht since winning promotion to T3, which has seen crowds grow with the entertainment on show offering outstanding value for money.

How will Rasi cope in T1? It’s difficult to assess, as one potential pointer is unavailable, as the club didn’t enter either domestic cup this season. As the quarter finals of the League Cup have shown, there is a massive gulf between T2 and the top-flight, with three sides around the playoffs being well beaten by higher-grade opposition.

Will there be enough money to sign the seven foreigners allowed in T1, and who will be doing the recruiting? Again, these are unknowns that we’ll have to wait to find out. What is for sure is that the meteoric rise of Rasisalai has been wonderful to watch, and there’ll be more fun yet to come.

 

An Insane Sisaket Derby

Behind the scenes of one of Isan’s biggest football clashes, as Rasisalai United and Sisaket United face off in a Thai League 2 battle, from the build-up in town and heavy traffic to the buzzing crowds outside the stadium. Witness the atmosphere, the action, and the drama of this unforgettable matchday. 

Whether you’re a fan of Thai League football, love derby atmospheres, or want to see what makes Sisaket's football culture so unique, this match has it all.

Many more Thai football videos, plus those from elsewhere, on my YouTube Channel.

Why I Love Football in Sisaket, Thailand

                      

Football support often comes down to geography, family, or circumstance. Some people inherit clubs through generations, while others discover new allegiances later in life.

In my case, moving to Sisaket in rural Thailand unexpectedly gave me not one local club to follow, but two.

Attending a Sisaket FC match in 2018
I'm not sure the stadium has been cleaned since

In my case, I am a Scarborough fan, as were all the elder members of my family, with Hull City offering me the chance of some bigger games on a visit to a larger place. When I moved to London, it was Hendon that I had an affection for when I couldn’t travel north. 

My holidays to Thailand saw me get to any games I could, eager for new adventures and to find unknown pleasures. Port FC became my favourite side, as they offered me the best matchday experience in Bangkok. However, things changed halfway through 2022.

I had met and become close to a lady while I lived in Minburi, who suggested we might enjoy life together in her home province of Sisaket. I visited the city on a whistlestop Isan tour in 2018 and took in a game against Nakhon Ratchasima in the League Cup. The city seemed fine to me, and the people were warm and friendly, so why not give it a go?

The Fall of Sisaket FC

Things developed pretty quickly between the two of us, as I fell in love with the people and the country life I was being offered, with the added chance to go and watch some football. It was the season that Sisaket FC were to fold, be disbanded and thrown out of Thai League 3 after a massive wrangle and dispute with Esan United. 

They had enjoyed a good history, previously playing in the top tier of Thai football, and filled the stadium on occasions, losing 1-0 to Buriram United in the 2015 League Cup final. Fortunately, another club, Sisaket United, formed in 2012, took over sole tenancy of the dated and dirty Sri Nakhon Lamduan Stadium and reached the playoffs in 2022-23, my first season of watching them. 

What came as a shock when my future wife drove me around the area was that there was a second club playing in town in a huge stadium that I was previously unaware of. Rasisalai United were competing in their debut season in the Thai League 3.

The more modern SAT Stadium

This was great news, especially after moving full-time to the area in February 2023, as it meant that there were two teams to go and watch. I quickly worked out that it would be possible to get to see games at Ubon UMT Stadium and other venues in the nearby cities once dropped off in Kanthararom, twenty minutes from us.

Sisaket is mad about football, with the province being fiercely proud of its people and teams that represent it. I often tell friends about its vibe, being one of community and taking me back to being a youngster in England, before attitudes and cultures changed for the worse. I quickly discovered that quite a few people went to watch whoever was playing, whether it be Sisaket or Rasisalai.

Looking towards "our" VIP seats

The following season, Rasi, a town around 40km from Sisaket city, had a distinctly average season, in front of crowds of around 300. Because their town has no suitable venue, they continued to play at the SAT Stadium in Sisaket. 

Sisaket United had a superb season, winning promotion and finishing overall runners-up in Thai League 3. While the tactics of coach “Pat” could sometimes be dull, they were effective, with the excellent Matteus Panigazzi and Danilo leading the way.

Naturally, interest grew along with attendance in the second tier. Rasi owner, the often-excitable Nuchanart Jaruwongsatian, was not about to see her club left behind. Arnon Bandasak was installed as coach, along with the arrival of three Brazilians: Ramon Mesquita, Gilberto Macena, and Alberto Gouvea. 

My pal, John, and I had met Alberto going into a Sisaket match and asked him how he thought he would get on. He was no joker. Alberto smashed through the twenty-goal mark as Rasisalai swept teams aside on the way to becoming national Thai League 3 champions.

Derby Day, and more importantly, a quality deal at a quality bar to get into the mood.
Football will always be far more than 90 minutes to me. It's a day out.

The team did even better than Sisaket had the season before, becoming national Thai League 3 champions as crowds grew, merchandise sales rocketed, and opponents were regularly swept aside. All this while Sisaket finished outside the playoffs despite showing promise on occasions.

Derby Days in Sisaket

The local derby between the two sides early in the 2025-26 season attracted an official crowd of 4,458, to which a thousand can be added, as kids don’t pay. They played out a magnificent 3-3 draw, while “Uncle Chuay”, the new coach of Sisaket United, formerly in charge of Sisaket FC, oversaw an improvement in their fortunes.

A big crowd at the derby

With one game before the mid-season break, Rasisalai sit at the top of the table and are still unbeaten, with Sisaket in third place. Two sides are promoted automatically, with the next four entering the playoffs. We are being spoilt for entertainment and matchdays in town.

Two Clubs, Two Different Experiences

The two experiences do differ. As mentioned, Sisaket’s home is decrepit, filthy, and a health hazard. It has a track around the pitch, but importantly, the stands are in a straight line, meaning not too much distance from the pitch. 

The fans are generally older, following the province’s traditional club, and are extremely passionate and vocal, with officials and visiting players being left in no doubt that they are the enemies. It’s horrible, the toilets are shocking, and the pitch is a disgrace, with some crazy people adding to the entertainment. I love it, especially on the open side.

The SAT Stadium is a bowl with curved stands around its running track, meaning it is a far greater distance from the pitch, and lacking in intensity, despite plenty of noise being made. The fans are generally younger and more polite. 

We sit every game in the VIP area, near the partners and families of the players, basically because we did when hardly anyone attended, so we continued to do so, becoming accepted as part of the furniture.

What will happen if one or both clubs win promotion to League 1 is anyone’s guess. It will take a lot of money to improve the squads. Questions are already being asked about whether the overseas players, now advancing in years, could cope at a higher level.

The pitch at Sri Nakhon Lamduan Stadium
Even worse than normal

Why Football Means More Than Results

Football has always been about more than the match itself for me. The beers beforehand, the conversations, the travelling to the ground, the familiar faces — that’s the real attraction.

Football day is my day out, and I must enjoy it. Results don’t matter if I have a good day. You see, we’re all different.

Why I Love Living in Sisaket

And that I think is why I love living in Sisaket so much. We have a small golf course, so we can enjoy a round. There is great food to be had, with bars too. It’s easy to walk up to the stadium and drink outside or take a beer to our seats. There is no hassle with tickets, and we get to know regulars. It’s the ideal size for me. I do worry some of it might diminish if either side went up, along with some heavy defeats on the pitch.

Under a Blood Red Sky at Sisaket United

The good thing is, I have the fallback of knowing that teams like Kanthararom United will enter the FA Cup along with amateur sides from Ubon Ratchathani, with a semipro league entertaining me in the new year, with the chance of a few days finding new bars and restaurants, making new friends, as well as an occasional game of golf.

Best of all, I live among people who love their football in whichever way they choose to support their local teams.

Kanthararom United

Kanthararom United FC 

Ground: Sisaket Rajhabat Stadium

Capacity: 2,000

Club Founded: 2012

League: N/A (current level)

About the Club 

Kanthararom United FC is an amateur football club representing the small market town of the same name on the road between Sisaket and Ubon Ratchathani. 

In 2017 and 2018, the team entered the Thailand Amateur League without any success, as well as the Thai FA Cup in 2018, when known as NBN Kanthararom United, they lost 3-0 to JL Chiangmai United, with the tie being played at SAT Sisaket Stadium in front of 240 fans.

The side returned to the FA Cup in 2022-23, going out 2-1 away to Khon Kaen in the first round with Jeerawat Thonglue in charge of the team. Fellow amateur club, Mahanakon Khon Kaen, ended any hopes of progression in the competition in 2023-24 with a 3-1 victory in the Qualifying Round.

Kanthararom did not enter the following season, but returned in 2025-26, going out once again 4-1 to Khon Kaen in FA Cup qualifying, with the game being switched to Sisaket Rajabhat University Stadium, as Jeerawat remained in charge of the team.

Despite playing in the national cup, Kanthararom do not play regular league football, with much of their activity centred around the small-sided NBN Arena pitch, on the main 226 Road, where local competition takes place.

My visit

Kanthararom United 1 Khon Kaen 4

Thai FA Cup Qualifying Round - Wednesday 24th September 2025

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 200 🎟️ Free

As the amateur team from my nearest town doesn’t have a suitable venue in Kanthararom, they switched the match to the Sisaket Rajabhat University Stadium, a few miles up the road.

They gave it a good go, too, against the pros from Thai League 3 Northeast. Quality and fitness were decisive factors in the end of an entertaining game played on a glue pot pitch in good spirits, which was sensibly refereed.

Khon Kaen went into a two-goal lead with efforts from the impressive Sakunchai Saenthopho in the second minute and then the excellent Charin Boodhad on the half-hour mark after he had earlier missed a penalty, as the rain teemed down before clearing near half-time. It looked like a large score was on the horizon.

However, the hosts gradually got back into the game and missed two easy chances, playing enterprising football at times despite being porous at the back. The second missed chance took some believing as a forward sliding in at the back post cleared the ball from a yard out.

The visiting coach brought on Brazilian forward Caio when Kanthararom looked like they might sneak a goal back. He was excellent, helping Charin to a second. The home team did score when a low cross was put away at the back post by Arnon Thongphanya, before the final kick of the match saw Caio put away a penalty. 

I’d met my mate John before the game for food and drink at Leo’s town, as we knew there should have only been half an hour before the second part of our extravaganza got underway. The weather certainly played a part in the Sisaket United v Padriew City game.

My Roving Report for A Thai Football Podcast

Sunday Bloody (Brilliant) Sunday

 Sunday Bloody (Brilliant) Sunday

Sisaket United 2 Nakhonsi United 1

Sunday 15th December 2014

Thai League 2

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 1,302 🎟️ 80 THB (£1.80)

It had been a cold spell, relatively speaking, in the remote countryside of Sisaket by our home for a week or so. This led to me feeling a bit under the weather with a cough and chest complaint. It might also be put down to getting on in years and overdoing things for the previous month.

Winter Blues in Sisaket

As the wind howled on Saturday night, I stayed indoors and watched some EPL action using the best-known cure to man. Some single malt Scotch whisky with cheese and biscuits. Well, it certainly worked for me over many years anyway. It helped me sleep and forget the idea of missing the match the next day.

There was an extra special reason for me not to. I love my matchday, ensuring that I squeeze every last drop out of a few hours away from home. While I equally adore the peacefulness of our abode and having an occasional cycle ride and generally relaxing, it is important to have a chat in English. It is the one day of the week when I eat mostly Western food. And of course, the football fills in a couple of hours of the adventure.

Friendship Through Football

While I have no problem keeping myself entertained and going to a match alone, it is generally more enjoyable being in the company of others. It provides conversation and opinion, often pointing out things you miss in your own private cocoon. 

Indeed, it was while I was chatting to Peter, the amiable owner of Hong Kong Garden, my pre-match venue of choice, that he happened to mention expats he knew who never went anywhere and spent their lives in a room working online.

John, my friend and fellow Sisaket fan, was away for the foreseeable future. I badly missed meeting him and going to games together. In the meantime, I attended matches with friends visiting the area who seemed to enjoy the experience of what is a special part of the world to me, as well as what matchday brought. 

Indeed, it was friends visiting the previous week that would lead to me being introduced to a new ally. The write-up of that day, for those who read my scribblings, can be enjoyed here.

A New Friend

Anyway, it was in Leo’s after the match that we came across Per, a passionate Arsenal supporter from Tromsø in Norway who lived in Sisaket. If that makes any sense. My only connection to his home city is remembering Chelsea playing there on a snow-covered pitch on TV. It was a conversation ice-breaker, so to speak, especially as Per spoke good English, like most of his countrymen.

We became friends on Facebook, and I sent him a message leading up to the match. The amazing thing was that although Per loved football, he had no idea of any clubs or leagues in Thailand, which says everything about the potency of local marketing. 

The Excitement of Discovering Football in Sisaket

He seemed astonished and equally delighted when I told him I went to most home games. Even more so when he discovered that the city had a second stadium where Rasisalai United play in the third tier. 

He messaged me just as I alighted the train from Kathararom and headed for my food and beer. We later met outside the Sri Nakhon Lamduan Stadium ahead of schedule, with him as keen as mustard. 

We wandered around to the far side, where I knew there would be a better atmosphere and settled down to beers on a cold and windy night, served by the usual friendly ladies on the stall, as he tried to take it all in.

He told me of his football experiences through work, going to games in London, the expensive nature of it, and the wonderful people he had met along the way. It was great to meet someone else who was clearly enjoying the whole experience, even at an early stage.

Wonderful Memories

I often lament how I would love to find the same buzz once more as my initial taxi ride from Don Muang Airport in 2004, and seeing the incredible sights which grabbed my heartstrings, followed by a night downtown. Also, my first taste of Thai football. If someone could bottle those emotions, then surely, they’d be a millionaire. Seeing someone else getting similar enjoyment is not a bad second best.

We headed upstairs to watch. His first comment was on the state of the pitch, saying he thought it resembled The Dell, from Southampton’s old home. He knew his stuff, quickly sussing out that the ref could be easily manipulated. The hosts, pushing towards the playoff places, went ahead through Caique Ribeiro in the early exchanges.

Big Match Action

Fellow Brazilian Danilo then missed a chance that I would have been upset to fluff. Per thought it was wonderful that this previously unknown competition had Brazilians playing in it. Danilo was impressive every week with his strength and game management. 

If only the big fella could finish with the same aplomb that he is said to when polishing off meals in certain local establishments. But then again, we wouldn’t be watching him ply his trade in the second tier of Thai football if he were highly competent in front of goal.

Nakhonsi had been on an awful run of form. Despite this, they played with a surprising amount of confidence, with some clever flicks and smart passing movements. They brought around twenty fans with them, showing some real dedication to travelling nineteen hours by road. 

My friend was bang on the money when he said it was not fair to give them the worst view in the entire ground. He couldn’t believe it when I explained that they were also charged more for the privilege.

The hosts were made to pay for missing their opportunity when Bianor Neto headed home from a narrow angle from a corner with Sisaket goalie Adisak flapping like a loosely fitted letterbox as usual. 

It was soon after that that referee Piyapong Thonkhain and his nearside official got in on the act, or at least they should have done. Wongsakorn was fouled by a visiting defender, with the offence clearly inside the box. The official gave a free kick outside the area. His assistant offered no help. 

Who'd Be a Referee?

It was as well that the bloke behind me in the stand from the previous week was missing. He’d have required hospital treatment. Astonishing stuff, but highly entertaining for those without too much skin in the game.

However, it was the ref who in the end decided the game in the second half when he gave Sisaket a penalty for an offence that seemed to be making up for his previous error of judgement. The crowd certainly played their part in helping him make up his mind. They can be a feisty bunch once they’ve had a beer or two. Danilo slotted home the resulting spot kick with eleven minutes remaining on the clock. Lamduan saw the game out for another three points with another unconvincing performance. 

We headed back to where I was due to be picked up, and where Per had parked his motorbike. By the open gap below the away section, a farang was applauding the Nakhonsi side, who’d gone to acknowledge the magnificent support that they had received. We joined him.

Yet Another Farang

I commended him on his loyalty, making such a journey only for him to reveal he was a Sisaket fan who lived an hour north of the city. Si was originally from South Wales but had become a Hull City fan, the bigger club I follow in England, after he'd studied at the university there. 

It seemed inconceivable that our paths hadn’t previously crossed. He told us where he sat for home games, so hopefully, that would lead to another friendship being created by attending Thai football. 

A Near Perfect Day

What a splendid day. I was so overcome with emotion that my wife had to call my driver after I left my phone in the back of his car after dropping me off. I then recalled most of the day to her. Often repeating myself. What a lucky lady.

For reasons of which I have no idea, she went to bed and didn’t want to watch the Brighton v Crystal Palace game with me, so I made the best of the company of the remaining whisky and snacks before bed. It could well have been the last live game that I attended in 2024. I'd certainly done it justice.

The Crusher Tribute Act

Stars on Sunday

A Tribute Act to my mate Crusher from the Bloke Behind Me

 

Sisaket United 2 Chanthaburi 1

Thai League 2

Sunday 8th December 2024

Attendance: 1,311

Tell Me Why, I Don't Like December

December has always been a strange month for me. I have never really enjoyed Christmas, and all the fuss connected to it, which at times in my adult life affected me mentally. I’ve no idea why. Perhaps spending so many years as a single person or the emotion involved, along with drinking too much, possibly lowered my resolve. 

It has admittedly become easier since 2021 through my move to Thailand, being in a relationship, and being in a place where it’s not heavily celebrated.

A few days before Santa was getting ready to dish out gifts in 2020, it was the height of lockdown during Covid and a miserable time without seeing friends, with pubs shut down and no sport to attend. 

Losing My Dear Friend, Crusher

I had bought lots of food and beer and returned to my home of the time in Northwest London, and started drinking when I received the awful news that my good friend Crusher had passed away. I drank an awful lot that night.

David Johnson, to give Crusher his Christened name, and I had become friends in the early part of the 1987-88 football season. I had been aware of him at Scarborough matches, this big bloke, a couple of years older than me, who appeared to be permanently angry during a game. 

By then, I had begun to work as a Postman with Crusher’s dad, George. He was another of whom the term “does not suffer fools gladly” was invented. Like his son, he was extremely honest and loyal.

Sunday League teammates

How We Became Friends

I initially invited Crusher to join us in a car to a midweek away game at Hereford, and a friendship was born. We had plenty in common, be it beer, pubs, playing local football, or going to Scarborough FC, as well as cricket. Our views on life were around the same, as well as our political beliefs. 

We ended up going all over together, supporting Boro and England, both football and cricket, as well as visiting Europe and Australia and becoming teammates and drinking partners for British Gas FC while also frequenting the town's pubs together. I'm sad that, like my parents, Crusher didn't get the chance to see me enjoying life overseas as a married man, especially after all the support he gave me.

From Crusher With Love

The Big Fella

Those who never met him are much the poorer. He was there to listen, remaining calm, offering a solution, but only if asked, and generally being a rock. He loved laughing and living life and was immensely popular, being able to tell great stories. 

If he had a pint, a newspaper, predominantly to do the puzzles, and some music, he was happy, particularly sitting at the bar in The Cask pub. It says it all that old mates run an annual coach to a Scarborough Athletic away game each season in tribute and to remember him.

Players and Officials Beware!

It was in the Cask establishment that many a quiet couple got to hear Crusher if they happened to be sitting anywhere near a TV when Liverpool, his other love, were playing. His range of profanities towards the referee and several opposition players was as good as any I’ve yet to hear and formed entertainment of its own. It was repeated watching Scarborough from the terraces. 

The match officials certainly knew he was in attendance. Certain opponents got extra special treatment. I’m not sure what Russ Wilcox ever did wrong when he wore various opponents' shirts against us, but I swear his first move after running onto the pitch was to look across and listen for the first bit of feedback from the big man, which would continue for the following ninety minutes.

Among his classics was the beauty delivered to Paolo Maldini. “You’re only in the team because your dad is the manager”. Any Aussie cricketer, particularly Ricky Ponting, except for anyone playing as an overseas signing for Yorkshire, received special attention. I’m not sure I’ve ever seen a happier man when we celebrated an Ashes win together on his birthday at Sydney Cricket Ground.

Thai Fan Culture

I didn’t think I would ever meet anyone more ratty during a game who supports a team while I lived in Thailand. There is a large lady who shouts incessantly at Port FC in the top corner of B Zone. I wouldn’t dare be late home if I lived with her, but she is more of an encouraging nature. I think. And of course, some lead the orchestrated cheering while using a megaphone. 

Astonishingly, clubs can be fined for audible chanting, accusations of cheating towards the officials or the administrators in Thailand. Good luck ever introducing that elsewhere.

Relaxing at the Football

I’m different to most fans in Thailand. While I cheer for Port FC when in Bangkok and Sisaket United when at home in Northeast Thailand, I attend any game I can and don’t get upset by the results. 

To me, the match is to be enjoyed as a part of my weekly day out. I generally find those ex-pats who get too involved become frustrated, somehow expecting the same experience and levels of organisation and structure as when watching football in their Western home country. That will never happen.

I find it far more fun to go along, have a few beers, have a cheer and then go home and look forward to the next game. I love it, and it plays a big part in my life. On Sunday, 8th December 2024, I met someone probably more animated than Crusher. It might yet even change the way I support Sisaket United.

A Matchday with Family and Friends

Like anywhere, it is usually better when attending something with friends. Ben from Denmark, along with Noi, who lives in Bangkok as well as my wife Taew, were with me on the final day of what had been a heavy month of socialising in many different locations around the country.

 The match at Sri Lamduan Stadium against Chanthaburi was the ideal opportunity to round things off with a hotel stay in town, with the game sandwiched between a late lunch, lots of beers and then a pub at full-time. Perfect.

Our guests had been to the home game with Khon Kaen the previous year, with my Danish pal being impressed with the vitriol shown towards the referee, with comments from the main stand suggesting that his wife was from the same city as the visitors. In Bachman-Turner Overdrive mode, “He Ain’t Seen Nothin’ Yet”.

Sitting with the Ultras

It was my suggestion that we watch from the uncovered far side, where the more vociferous fans assembled with no danger of rain on this occasion. It proved to be an inspired decision. We went upstairs after beers and snacks outside in the fan zone, enjoying the whole occasion as it should be.

I let Taew decide where to sit, and she came up trumps. The hosts went ahead within a minute when a long throw from skipper Pongsak Boontod was flicked on at the near post by Caíque Ribeiro and put away by top scorer Danilo. The big Brazilian was outstanding all evening while assisted by fellow countrymen Caique and Abner.

As ever, the Thais filled in, which often saw Danilo becoming exasperated by some of the poor game management and lack of skills around him from the natives. The tactics of coach Narongthanaphorn, who could be negative in the extreme, probably would not be a huge help.

Passion in Sisaket

Fans in Sisaket can be extremely passionate. It was noticeable that crowds would build throughout the game after they got away from work, with the volume increasing as beer was being consumed at regular intervals. It could go up on the dial if the opponents employed ways to frustrate or if the officials were deemed to be against the home team. Enter my new hero.

Within minutes, a Chanthaburi defender was not penalised, probably correctly. It led to some pushing and shoving between players on both sides, which ignited a tinderbox. The bloke behind me, probably in his thirties, was going berserk. He had a booming voice, which he used for the rest of the game with very few stops for breath as he abused anyone belonging to Chanthaburi as well as the match officials.

Next to him was a slender lady who never spoke a word. Was it a first date on which he was trying to impress, or perhaps she enjoyed it as much as the rest of us did? I was at a loss as to what he was shouting, but Taew’s facial expressions suggested there was lots of abuse with a hint of humour. What I’d have given to sit Crusher next to him.

The Away Team Strike Back

The away side scored a lovely goal to restore parity, which was finished by Tongan international Ata Inia. While the Wild Rabbits were not very good, they looked dangerous going forward, led by another Brazilian, Tiago Chulapa. All three away supporters in the distant zone seemed happy.

They had been charged double the money for the experience, one thing I dislike about Thai football. Crusher would have certainly had views about it, especially if he had been plonked in there.

Eleven Hours to an Away Game

You could have heard a pin drop. However, it was soon back to normal. I had noticed the previous week that Chanthaburi had lost a tempestuous battle away to league leaders Phrae United in which Irish defender Clyde O'Connell had been given his marching orders. 

That journey by road was eleven hours, compared to less than eight to Sisaket. And people wonder why clubs struggle financially. Not that the bloke behind me showed any sympathy for the travel or cost incurred. His abusive lexicon was continually impressive in a country famed for its hospitality.

Home Fans Influence the Referee

Just past the half-hour mark, Abner made the most of finding a way to tumble in the box as he ran into an opponent. Referee Nasri Tamat pointed to the spot, a decision undoubtedly swayed by crowd pressure. 

Quite reasonably, the visiting team players were extremely angry. Danilo kept his cool, stepped up and slotted the penalty past the generally dodgy goalkeeper Chaloempat Ploywanratta.

The second half followed the pattern of many Lamduan home games. Sisaket decided to try to hang on to their lead. It was a tactic they consistently used in the three seasons I had become a regular. The times that they are caught out, especially since being promoted to the second tier, are surely worthy of a change of thought. 

Unbelievably, in the closing stages, previously unambitious Thai home players turned adventurous, making shocking decisions. I was wondering whether Danilo or the bloke behind me would pop first.

Celebrating with My New Friend

I turned around when the full-time whistle was blown to shake hands. I would have asked him for a photo, but didn’t want him to think I was taking the piss. Many locals were laughing at their fellow fan and me, thanking him and vowing to meet the following week.

Uan, our one-legged driver, a story of his own, was waiting behind the main stand to drive us to Leo’s, a wonderful bar and restaurant to see out the rest of the night. They had an offer on Guinness of buy one and get one free, while Australian striploin steaks had a big reduction in price.

Meeting Another New Friend in the Pub

There was still time to make acquaintance with Per for the first time, a Norwegian who, it transpired, lived in town and was doing his pieces while cheering on Arsenal and seeing them have two goals chalked off through VAR on TV. He was unaware of Sisaket having a professional team, the news of which seemed to make his evening, as contact details were exchanged between us, hopefully, to introduce him to a life-changing experience.

A grand day out, with England starting it by winning the Test in New Zealand. It was full of fun, and laughter surrounded by great company as beer flowed in excellent venues, soaked up with delicious food, and a rare home win too. But most of all, the bloke behind me topped it off by doing his Crusher tribute act. I hope he was the same value in a bar and in life in general.

RIP Crusher. Happy Christmas, everyone.

Sisaket

Sisaket FC was a professional football club from the town of the same name in Thailand’s northeastern region of Isan, which was formed in 1999. The club was dissolved in 2022.

The club was formed by the Sports Authority of Thailand to play in the Provincial League, which was the third tier of football at the time. SSKFC went on to become the inaugural champions.

By 2007, ‘The Dangerous Koupreys’; a kouprey being a wild bovine animal of the region, found themselves competing in the second-tier Thai Division 1 League, from where they were relegated to the Regional League. Head coach Chartkla Subsongpol had been appointed the previous year.

The club kept faith with him as he led the side to runners-up place in Group B and promotion back to the second level. Success continued for the fans at Sri Nakhon Lamduan Stadium as Sisaket finished the 2009 season in third place and was promoted to the Thai Premier League with Piroj Anantanarong finishing as the top scorer.

Somchart Yimsiri took over as team boss in what was to prove to be a rather turbulent season. SSKFC finished in the relegation play-off spots, with Freddy Marinho, Kim Kyung-Ju and Wisoot Wichaya all coming and going as head coach. The team came top of their relegation play-off to remain in the top flight, thanks in part to the goals of Piyawat Thongman.

Englishman Dave Booth was appointed to lead the side for the 2011 season, but he was replaced a few weeks in by the Brazilian, Royter Moreira. The club was known on records as Sisaket Muangthai FC, as they finished safely in the twelfth spot, with Wuttichai Tathong and Victor Amaro finishing as joint top scorers.

In 2012, the local Sisaket government decided to back the newly formed club Sisaket United FC in the third-tier Regional League North Eastern Region. Sisaket FC decamped to Ubon Ratchathani and changed their name to Esan United FC.

Moreira was replaced by Phayong Khunnaen and then Paniphon Kerdyam during the season, as the team finished in sixth place with Tana Chanabut banging in the goals after being signed from Police United. However, the joy at such a credible finish was to be short-lived.

It was found that fake documents had been used to legitimise the move to Ubon Ratchathani, along with the name change. The club was suspended for the season and returned to Sisaket and their former title while retaining their Premier League place for the 2014 campaign.

Former Thai international midfielder Chalermwoot Sa-ngapol took charge of the team on their return home. International forward Sarayuth Chaikamdee scored the goals as SSKFC finished in twelfth place.

Ekkapan Jandakorn skippered the team in 2015, in a season which saw Adefolarin Durosinmi lead the scoring charts as the Sisaket finished in thirteenth spot. However, a fine run in the League Cup almost ended in glory.

Pattaya United and Police United were among the sides disposed of as Sisaket reached the final, where they were up against Isaan neighbours Buriram United. SSKFC went down to a solitary goal at Bangkok’s Suphachalasai Stadium.

The 2016 final league position mirrored that of the previous season. Božidar Bandović had started the campaign as head coach before he was replaced by Masahiro Wada, with Anton Zemlianukhin finishing as top scorer.

Former Thai international defender Dusit Chalermsan took control of the team for the commencement of the 2017 campaign in the rebranded Thai League 1, before being replaced by Velizar Popov by March. The Bulgarian’s reign was also short-lived as he had resigned by August.

Former English Premier League forward Leroy Lita spent the season at the club without really producing the goods. Mariano Berriex was the leading scorer, with Chalermwoot Sa-ngapol in charge of the team, as they were relegated to League 2.

Robert Jose da Silva was charged with the task of trying to regain Sisaket’s top-tier status, but he was soon replaced by Somchai Chuayboonchum. The side reached the semi-final of the FA Cup in 2018, where they were defeated by Buriram United at the Boonyachinda Stadium in Bangkok.

The team would have won promotion in 2019 under head coach Worachai Surinsirirat, but the club was deducted twelve points over the ongoing dispute with Esan United and former players Kouen Hyuk-jin and Khaled Farid Kharroubi.

The Thai League calendar reverted to the European model for the 2020-21 season, as Sisaket appointed Chusak Sriphum as team boss before he was replaced by Preeda Chankra as the side finished in the relegation places. Santi Chaiyaphuak was given the managerial role in Thai League 3 Northeast. His team qualified for the Champions League playoffs but went no further.

The club didn't start the following season after the Thai Administration Court ordered the FA of Thailand to return the license of Sisaket FC to Esan United and pay them 18.5 million baht in compensation. Esan made noises about returning and wanted their Thai League 1 place back, but nothing more was heard from them.

My visit

Sisaket 0 Nakhon Ratchasima 3 (Wednesday 13th June 2018) League Cup Round One (att: 651)

My twelve-day holiday to Thailand had been in the planning stage for a while when I arrived at work for an early shift a couple of weeks before departure. I was like a little lad on Christmas morning as the draw for the Thai League Cup was about to be made.

I’d attended the 2017 final the previous November with Steve Walker, but this was to be different as I would be travelling up country alone to a town I’d never been to before. Dale down in Chonburi had been a help as ever in the build-up.

He started sending me the draw, which he translated as it was made live on Facebook. I kept trying to get a look, but I hadn’t a clue what was going on. Some cynics would say that I had plenty in common with those conducting proceedings.

My plans were to take in cities in Isaan for part of the trip, so I was overjoyed when the draw pitted together two sides from that region. The capacity of the stadium meant that tickets wouldn’t be an issue. It was time to start booking rooms and transport.

Forward to Wednesday 13th. I’d arrived in Bangkok the previous morning in an adventurous mood and spent the day sleeping, at the local snooker hall, eating and even having a game of bingo before a few beers in Minburi with Steve.

There was something about the Sudtong Club where we settled on the main drag. It didn’t have an extensive range of beers or luxurious facilities, but to me, it was proper Thailand. Low prices, reasonable snacks, live music, friendly folk and set by a dual carriageway. I loved the place.

In fact, I loved it a bit too much, staying on after my pal and then awaking a bit the worse for wear at 5.30am. My flight wasn’t until 9am, but traffic could be terrible during the Bangkok morning peak, so it was better to be safe than sorry.

The hold-ups could be worse than ever at the time, as in many places a lane of traffic had disappeared while the sky train extension was in progress. It was some herculean job, but it would surely eventually ease the congestion a little.

I began to perk up after some comfort food. My flight was on time, and I was very excited. As I noted at the time, I could be visiting places where little English was spoken, or indeed written. This merely added to the thrill. My flight was to Ubon Ratchathani, from where I decided to take a taxi to the railway station. 

It was a choice between train or bus, but being a railway worker meant that there could be only one real option. The fare to Sisaket, or Si Sa Ket as it was also listed, was about 30p in sterling. I had around an hour to wait, so I bought a bottle of water and watched the world go by on the platform. I was attracting some attention.

The transport police came over for a chat. One of their colleagues photographed us from across the tracks. They were very friendly and asked what I was doing and heading. When I said Sisaket, they said, “Why?”

I explained I was going to the football, which surprised them. They seemed to have trouble getting their heads around it. I don’t suppose that they’d come across many overweight backpacking fifty-plus-year-old Yorkshiremen going to watch Sisaket play?

As it turns out, I noticed signs on the route and then between Sisaket and Surin the following day, warning of people trafficking. Perhaps the police thought that was my game? The nearest I got to that was organising mini buses to watch Scarborough.

I’d also infamously helped form and lead the Beer Battered Seadogs Cricket Club on three brief tours of Bangkok, Pattaya and Hua Hin, for which I was still receiving counselling, but people trafficking? No thanks? The welcome from everyone had taken me back. A young lady had been most helpful in the ticket hall. 

In fact, my one slight disappointment was that I was all geared up to use some very basic Thai when everyone spoke decent English. The station at Ubon Ratchathani was in itself uplifting, at least to someone involved in the industry back home, where saving money comes above customer service. Here, there was a ticket office, first class lounge, toilets, reasonably priced stalls, lots of staff and police.

I’d been told that my train was cheap as it was a local service, but I’d have smiled if they put me in an open truck. There’s something about Thailand that does that to me. Not everyone speaks English, but they smile. It’s only natural to reciprocate. How are we getting it so wrong in the UK?

Anyway, I digress. People packed all manner of items on board. Vendors went up and down the train. I opted for a bottle of water and a piece of barbecued chicken on a stick. It certainly beats paying £5 for a pastie!

The journey took an hour. It was stifling hot as I arrived in Sisaket, a town seemingly dominated by market stalls, at least on either side of the railway tracks. I walked the ten minutes or so to the Boonsiri Boutique Hotel, my place of rest for the night.

I’d read that taxis were rare in the town, so I inquired at reception as to whether it was possible to book me one to take me to the match, as the stadium was on the outskirts. The young lady said it was no problem and it would be there at 5pm. After a siesta, my room phone rang to tell me that my carriage was awaiting. What excellent service! 

I explained to the driver as well as I could where I wanted to go. He nodded and headed off in the correct direction according to my previous research. It was normal to see scooters with fans wearing team shirts on the way to matches in Thailand. Therefore, I was a little concerned not to encounter any as the stadium floodlights appeared on the horizon.

I needn’t have worried. I was at the right place, and the game was kicking off at 6pm. It was just that I was early. 100 Baht (£2.20) secured me a seat near the centre of the covered stand. There was time to have a look around before that. I managed to gain access to the stand behind the goal to take some photos, where I came across a couple of local ultras taking their banners and drums upstairs. 

Again, broad smiles were the order of the day. It was obvious that the early kick-off time would affect the attendance. Many were still at work. I was slightly shocked that only 20 or so fans had made the journey from Korat to cheer on Nakhon Ratchasima. It was a case of choosing any spot as the teams warmed up.

The Sri Nakhon Lamduan Stadium was a typical multi-purpose arena as seen around Thailand, with an athletic track around the pitch. Stands formed a horseshoe shape on three sides, with the Main Stand a lone structure with a roof and seats over the centre section. The home side were the underdogs but started well with their Brazilian number 10, Cristiano, looking very talented on the ball. 

Two WAGS of Brazilian appearance came into the stands as the crowd gradually built. Cristiano brought a good save out of Swatcat keeper Todsaporn Sri-reung, who was on loan from Police-Tero in the second minute with a long-range shot. The main noise came from the far side and the few behind the goal as the sun quickly dropped.

The locals sang a song which had a resemblance to Belinda Carlisle’s, Heaven is a Place on Earth. While Cristiano was good with his feet, he missed an easy chance to score with his head midway through the half as he glanced at a perfect cross from Nattaphol Sukchai.


Nakhon Ratchasima put together their first meaningful attack when Phaitoon Nontadee went on an excellent run, beating several players to pull back to Veerapong Korrayok, who contrived to hit the side netting with his shot.

Natthakit Insao also reached the byline for the hosts before teeing up Pongsak Boonthot, whose weak header was easily dealt with just past the half-hour mark. It was a similar story a few minutes later as Igor Luiz fluffed a headed chance from a Wongsaphat Silahirunrath free kick.

The visitors went 1-0 up a couple of minutes before the interval, when Nebojša Marinković went on a fine run that was nodded home by Phaitoon Nontadee to the joy of the gargantuan figure of Ratchasima’s Serbian coach Miloš Joksić. Swatcats continued where they left off, as they were the better side for the first ten minutes after the restart. 

Sisaket looked to get back into the game, with Cristiano missing another sitter with his head.
However, the hosts were offered a lifeline when the referee awarded them what looked like a very soft penalty after sixty-seven minutes. Justice was seemingly done as Cristiano blasted the spot kick at least ten yards over the bar.

The Koupreys had their danger extinguished a few minutes later as they were made to pay for their missed chance. A fine ball saw the defence go missing as Leandro Assumpção waltzed through to double the lead. The Brazilian added another soon after with a fine run and a beautiful chip over home custodian Pornchai Kasikonudompaisan. 

It received well-deserved applause from all around the stadium. Confidence seemed to drain from the Sisaket players. Fortunately, the visitors realised that their job was done and didn’t inflict any greater damage. There was still time for the hosts to come close twice before full-time.

An awful clearance from the Swatcat keeper saw the ball returned into the area, where Cristiano saw his effort blocked on the line. The same player hit the bar with the last action of the game after a Methanon Sutthasen was nodded into his path. The match was certainly a tale of two Brazilians. Sisaket’s Cristiano could have been the hero. 

Instead, it was Ratchasima’s Leandro who left with the plaudits. I thoroughly enjoyed it all. Now it was time to find my way back. I hadn’t risked asking the driver to return in case the match went to extra time. I mean, how was I meant to explain the permutations to him in Thai when he’d dropped me off? With no taxis around and the crowd heading away, it was time to get my daily steps in.

It was still very warm as I walked south before taking the main drag back towards town. I was relieved to come across a 7/11 halfway up Thanon Khu Khan to take on board a toastie and a Gatorade. I’d read that there may have been a lively bar near the bus station, but I didn’t find it if there was. 

Instead, I stopped for a beer in a bar called Stand By, which had an indoor area which seemed to be popular with well-dressed locals. I was tired and needed a shower, so I headed back to my hotel and started watching another England ODI victory over Australia. While this was naturally satisfying, I hadn’t planned weeks in advance to sit in a hotel room when there was exploring to be done.

After a change of clothes, I headed along Ratchakan Rotfai 2, busy with people working on the night market stalls and past the station, where I’d read reviews for a bar called Cuckoo’s Nest. I walked all the way without locating it. Not to worry, as I had a plan B. Hotel Prompiman was said to have a bar, club and snooker hall. It was time that I found out. 

Sure enough, this looked like the place to be in town. I took a seat at a vacant table and was soon enjoying a large bottle of Chang in an open-fronted place with I-Bar, a club across the yard.

The service was excellent, with the waitresses filling the glass as it emptied. On reflection, it may well have been the not-unattractive female staff wearing figure-hugging dresses advertising the popular brew that persuaded me to have another.

I settled my tab and was mulling over a visit to the nightclub when a couple of local fellas beckoned me over. They insisted I drink with them. Being the perfect diplomat and tourist, I concluded that it was the least I could do. It transpired that one of the fellas was in the army as he showed me photos of himself in full uniform and on parade, followed by images of his family.

I was praying that his phone didn’t have too much storage as I made my excuses and went across the way. It had been some time since I’d been clubbing, but my memory told me that the bouncer hadn’t smiled and welcomed me the same way as was in evidence here. Entry was free, and drinks were sensibly priced.

People stood by tables and were served, but they seemed fine with me going straight to the hatch and paying. Again, I was getting smiles from everyone. A very decent local band had the place rocking. It was definitely bedtime a couple of large bottles later.

A local had tried to strike up a conversation when I first tried to order a beer, but the music was too loud, and I wanted to take everything in. The same fella saw me as I was having a look at the food on the busy street stall. He seemed a friendly chap and insisted on giving me a lift back to my hotel, even waiting while I popped into 7/11 for snacks.

Somehow, I couldn’t imagine that happening in the UK. It summed up Sisaket and its wonderful smiling people. It wasn’t the most aesthetic of towns, but the locals more than made up for it. I wouldn’t hesitate to return. Little did I realise that I would, five years later to get married to a local woman and live in the countryside!

Incidentally, I later discovered that I was on the wrong side of the railway for my originally intended place of lubrication, so I would have to wait for a return trip. Maybe for a Sisaket United match? I wouldn’t need to have too many excuses to see so many smiles again!