TOT SC

TOT Sports Club was a professional football club based in the northern Lak Si district of Bangkok in Thailand before being dissolved in 2016 after the club was formed in 1954, originally representing the national Telephone Organisation of Thailand. The club lifted the FA Cup in 1993.

TOT became founder members of the Thai Premier League for the 1996-97 season when they lost in the semi-final of the Championship play-off to Bangkok Bank. Several seasons of mid-table finishes ensued before the club finished in the relegation places in 2002-03.

However, the team bounced back at the first attempt after winning the Division 1 League title at the first attempt in 2003-04. Their spell in the top flight lasted just one season before TOT were relegated once again.

This led to a season in the Provincial League; a competition which would eventually merge with the main second tier. TOT spent just one season there before winning promotion back to the Premier League.

The club played their matches at Namkaejon Stadium in Nonthaburi from 2007 and 2008 with Phuwadol Suwannachart the goal-scoring hero. 'Hello' finished in mid-table in the top flight, spending the 2009 season at Kleeb Bua Stadium in Kanchanaburi as Suchao Nutnum top scored. 

The move to Kanchanaburi didn't pay off, with a local side Muangkan FC being formed, so TOT upped sticks once more to share the then-named Yamaha Stadium with Muangthong United. Crowds were once again poor with TOT fans being regularly outnumbered by visiting supporters.

Further problems hit the club by way of an ownership dispute in 2010. Piroj Suwannachavee took over and arranged an agreement with another telecommunication organisation; CAT. The club's name was changed to TOT-CAT FC. 

The FA of Thailand were called in by TOT, the original owners, to settle the dispute and they agreed that TOT still owned the club, so the name reverted back to TOT SC. Throughout the period the team continued to finish in the lower reaches of the table.

The club eventually completed a new home stadium on the premises of TOT in Lak Si, with the club moving into TOT Stadium for the second half of the 2011 season. The club began to develop its youth structure from its new home, while Somchai Subpherm took on the role of Head Coach with Mohamed Koné scoring the goals.

In 2012 and 2013 Prakit Deeporm ended as the leading scorer as the club battled against many better supported clubs in the capital. Takahiro Kawamura and Bas Savage were the star performers in 2014 before Tewesh Kamonsin took over as head coach for the 2015 campaign.

The season would prove to be the final one for the club as the team ended bottom of the table. TOT withdrew from the 2016 competition, which would have seen them compete at the second level, owing to financial troubles.

My visits

Wednesday 27th March 2013

I had a spare day on my cricket tour of Thailand, and with the majority of my team mates not arriving until the following day, I decided to get stuck into my favourite spare time hobby of adventuring and visiting new stadiums. 

I had already visited the home of Regional League side Kasetsart University when I flagged down a taxi and showed him my print from Google Maps and asked him to take me to Soi 5 Watthana by Lak Si. 

My basic Thai and the map did the trick as we travelled along the easy route towards Don Mueng Airport, with the familiar signs of the railway to our left. I had travelled much of the route several times in the past on the way to play cricket at the Harrow International School.

Although I'd looked at the street view on Google, I really wasn't sure as to whether I'd get access inside the stadium. I wandered through the gates of TOT smiling at the guards and keeping walking. 

It was easy to find the way to the arena with the telltale signs of canvas-covered tables on either side of the main walkway, which no doubt furnished fans on match days. There was some sign of activity on the pitch, with the gates open. 

I wandered in to see the Summer Soccer School in full swing, with several parents occupying the stands. I got on with wandering around and taking photos. The Main Stand was three separate raised and covered seated structures occupying one touchline. Opposite was an open seated section, which again ran the full length of the pitch. 

The Lak Si end was unoccupied with just a high fence separating the pitch from the covered car and bicycle park. The TOT End was extremely basic, with a small roof covering an area back from the pitch reserved for away supporters.

A few smiles seemed to defuse any suspicion, as it often does in the wonderful country that is Thailand. I went along my way and walked up to the main road before I attempted to hail a taxi to my next destination.

TOT SC 1 Port FC 2 (Saturday 31^st October 2015) Thai Premier League (att: 1,580)

My second game of the evening had something to live up to. I had been to the Air Force Central v Police United game in the second tier, and it had been very good. I’d been slightly reluctant to leave it before full time, but Port needed all the support that they could muster.

The last of my pals had gone home after a successful Beer Battered Seadogs cricket and sightseeing holiday. I had taken them along with three ex-pat locals to Port’s home 2-0 defeat to Army United the previous Wednesday. They were awful in all honesty, and this game was about the last chance to start their serious challenge to stay up. TOT were bottom of the table and getting close to the point of requiring a miracle.

My taxi driver from Thupatemee Stadium spoke English and knew the way to the TOT Stadium, which was good news. He was honest enough to admit we’d struggle to make kick off, but I told him that was no problem and just to do his best.

Unbelievably we hit a standstill near Don Muang Airport as we were underneath the tollway. Surely there hadn’t been an accident? My pilot told me that he’d seen on the news that there was some kind of official visit to the airport over the weekend. Perhaps we’d found it?

After nigh on ten minutes of not moving at all we suddenly went back to normal speed. It did look to be some kind of controlled blockage for access further up. Sure enough, my driver did know the way. 

However, the main gate on Chang Watthana was closed to the TOT. I paid the driver up and set off with blistered feet back along and down Chang Watthana past the stadium. Vendors in the street were selling their wares to fans over the wall inside the ground.

The game was still 0-0 as I approached the away fans' entrance behind the goal. I was turned away and told that I had to buy a ticket. Instead of having a ticket office nearby for away fans I had to go all the way round behind the Main Stand, past the away end and half the far side.

While I loved most things Thai, it had to be said that their organisational skills were rock bottom. A major problem is that they take constructive advice as criticism, so things seldom change.

TOT had the nerve to charge 150 Baht (£3) for away fans. While that doesn’t sound much, it is to Thais, especially those who struggle in Khlong Toei. It was the most expensive ticket I’d paid for at a standing ticket in Thailand. They wanted 300 Baht to sit down the side!

At last, I managed to get inside and got myself a place on the back row of the rickety wooden stand. The unused TV gantry in the centre and netting didn’t help the view, the mud at the front was causing dust and mosquitos were biting the hell out of me, but I was loving it.

This was a proper do-or-die relegation battle. My team had a great following and cared passionately. Full families, all in orange and blue, were cheering on Port; from babies to grandparents. The noise from the Khlong Toei Army was incessant, especially from the youths with the drum on the flat standing behind the goal. There must have been around 600 in the away section.

Both teams were giving it everything; despite neither being very good. TOT were more like a Champions League side in a vital home leg than the desperate bunch propping up the league. Port were defending and breaking like lions.

The home players Anucha Taiwong and Dutchman Luciano Dompig were causing problems for the visiting defence, but they held strong. On twenty-one minutes the away end went wild when the ball was fed wide. A great cross from the right came to where an unmarked Wuttichai Tatong headed home.

Despite attacks from the home side, Port looked relatively solid and had plenty of play up the other end. Sadly, just like the previous match, there was far too much procrastination around the box without any end product. TOT were there for the taking, but Port lacked ambition and belief.

At half-time, I was hugged by several Thai Port fans and even asked to be in a couple of photos. I’m not sure who they thought I was? I enjoyed my first beer of the day, with smiles all around. It’s amazing how happy fans can be when their side are winning away from home.

After the break I stood up against the fence to catch the better atmosphere and because I didn’t trust the stands! An expat Englishman had a chat and made me very welcome. There was a small group of three or four others further along.

The bloke and his wife by me at the front had their junior daughter with them. I stepped aside so that she could stand on top of the fence and hang on to the netting. A girl behind was giving the ref some deserved stick, letting him know that she thought he was ‘mao’ (drunk!).

Inevitably Port’s attacks became fewer as TOT threw men forward. The tension was building in the away end. The occasional break wasn’t been capitalised on as the vital final ball was going astray. The home side bought on Bas Savage with twenty-five minutes to go.

I was lucky enough to have met Bas at the end of the previous season with Chonburi fan Dale Farrington as TOT staved off relegation and helped deprive the Sharks of the title. He was a smashing bloke, but I was less than pleased to see him again. His pace, height and strength immediately changed the dynamics of the game. Why manager Tewet Kamonsilp hadn’t started with him was a mystery?

Nobody was massively surprised when TOT equalised with just eight minutes to go. It was Dompig who scored with a low shot. The home fans down the open side were going crazy. Port’s followers began the noise again after a few seconds of stunned silence.

Suddenly it dawned on the Port team and manager Masahiro Wada that a draw was no good. Fortunately, the home side could sense the chance of a winner and were also going for it. The play was end to end and not of great quality.

In the final minute of normal time, a decent pass gave Port’s Hironori Saruta a chance of a shot. His first touch was awful, taking the ball away from the goal, but as he looked to turn he was brought down. Referee Taweechai Supatwan pointed to the spot. The place went mad.

Photo: Thanks to Judy from Klongtoey Army Facebook Page

After what seemed like a long delay as home players kept time wasting and encroaching into the area, David Rochela stepped up and smashed the ball into the bottom corner of the net as bedlam broke out all around. It doesn’t matter where you go in the world, or what standard; there’s nothing like a last minute winner away from home.

After a few minutes of stoppage time and no great alarms, the ref brought a halt to proceedings and further celebration. The home players came to the away section and were given a great ovation. I really love that feature at Thai games. 

Photo: Thanks to Judy from Klongtoey Army Facebook Page

An attractive young lady had been taking photos just in front of the away end as well as a video when the winner went in. She tried to grab my attention for a photo amongst the celebrating fans at full time. 

I eventually found the pictures online six weeks later at the Klongtoey Army Facebook page. I was sent the originals within the hour and told that it was Judy who took the pictures. Thank you very much for such a brilliant service and fantastic photos.

I was away before the Port players came over, with other fish to fry! Within a minute I’d hailed a cab outside and once again the driver knew where I wanted to go. He was pressing the metal to Soi Cowboy. I was in a great mood, especially when he told me Chelsea had lost at home again!

Photo: Thanks to Judy from Klongtoey Army Facebook Page

A tired and emotional Steve was waiting for me at the Queen Victoria, where a newly arrived Chris Lamb and his pal Timmy soon turned up. We went around to watch the Rugby World Cup Final and other assorted entertainment while catching up on Yarrambat and personal matters. The opened chips and battered sausage rounded off the proceedings. It was a great end to a fantastic day!

To see a video with my reflections, including the winning goal and celebrations, click here.

Chonburi

 

Chonburi FC was formed in 1997 in the city of Chonburi, which is on the eastern seaboard of the Gulf of Thailand. The club originally played in regional competition and was formed from the football club of Assumption College Sriracha.

An amalgamation soon took place with the division one side, Sannibat-Samutprakan with the new club being named Chonburi-Sannibat-Samutprakan FC. The club played at the local Princess Sirindhorn Stadium and joined the Thailand Provincial League in 2002. 

This was under the name of Chonburi Code Red FC after separating from Sannibart Samutprakarn FC as the club moved to Chonburi Municipaility Stadium for a couple of seasons. At this point, the club adopted the nickname of 'The Sharks'.

Promotion was won into the Thai League in 2006. The side were successful with the club returning to the Chonburi Municipality Stadium with AFC Champions League matches switched to the Suphachalasai Stadium in Bangkok. 

The Sharks had success in the Asian Champions League in 2008 as they defeated Melbourne Victory as reigning Thai champions.

Matches were shared between the Municipality and Princess Sirindhorn Stadiums until the club moved to the Institute of Physical Education Chonburi Campus Stadium (IPE Chonburi Stadium). Chonburi FC continue to be one of the country's most prominent football clubs with a large following.

The 2014 season could have ended as one of the greatest in Chonburi's history. However, it ended in disappointment and in tales of what might have been. With just two league games remaining The Sharks led the table. They could only muster draws as Buriram United overtook them. A week later they went down 1-0 to Bangkok Glass in the FA Cup Final.

Japanese coach Masahiro Wada led the side at the start of the 2015 season before being replaced by the Thai Jadet Meelarp as the team finished in fourth place while the continued goals of Thiago Cunha kept the team in the hunt.

New boss Therdsak Chaiman replaced Meelarp for the 2016 campaign. Cunha departed to Port, while Brazilian striker Rodrigo Vergilio replaced him. The Sharks ended the 2016 campaign in fifth position.

The goals of Renan Marques fired the Sharks to a seventh place finish in 2017 under Chaiman, who was replaced for the 2018 season by the German, Goran Barjaktarević, who in turn was replaced by Jukkapant Punpee during the season as the Sharks ended in ninth position thanks in part to the goals of Worachit Kanitsribampen.

The 2019 campaign ended with a seventh place, as Sasom Pobprasert came in as team boss in July, with Brazilian striker Lukian tucking away the goals. For 2020-21 the Thai League changed to the European calendar as the Sharks finished in the bottom third of the table.

Caion top scored as the side reached the final of the FA Cup, going down on penalties to Chiang Rai United on penalties at Thammasat Stadium in a match played behind closed doors owing to the Covid-19 pandemic.The 2021-22 season saw Yoo Byung-Soo leading the scoring as Chonburi’s league placement improved with the club maintaining continuity with their off-field appointments. 

However, the 2022-23 season saw serious issues off the pitch which were not addressed. Coach Sasom resigned before the end of the campaign after a League Cup semifinal defeat with the side ending the season in sixth. A lack of investment in 2023-24 would end in relegation to T2. Makoto Teguramori began the season as coach before being replaced by caretaker Nattawut Vichitrawetakan.

The fact that he oversaw the final four months of the season was seen by many fans as a sign that the club were gearing itself up for the drop. The owners apologised at the end of the season and installed former playing hero Pipon On-mo as head coach.

Chonburi FC will play in Thai League 2 in the 2024-25 season.

My visits

April 2007

The following is my description of my visit as part of a ground hop around Thailand in March/April 2007 that appeared in the Scarborough Athletic fanzine, Abandon Chip

The train transport system in Bangkok is first class if a little sparse. Once it is eventually extended it really will be something to behold. My destination was the old National (Suphachalasai) Stadium near Siam Square. 

This is a grand old place with steep open seats and one covered main stand which had hosted three previous Asian Games and now plays host to Chonburi FC for their ACL games Now it is all seated it has a 35,000 capacity.

OK, I admit it. I’m guilty of overdoing things at times and I provided conclusive evidence the next day. Steve (my good friend and host) didn’t have a spare key for me, so I needed to be at the house for him arriving home at 4.15pm.

I was in a bit of a quandary before I decided it would be an innovative idea to have a half day out in Chonburi to visit the reigning champions’ home stadium. Just before my arrival Chonburi FC had won the ACL game against Melbourne Victory which had given me a bit of a laugh when among my Victorian friends at the cricket.

I should have pulled out after the taxi to the bus station was held up owing to an accident further up the road, before I got lost trying to find the bus station, eating up more valuable time. However, my stubbornness meant I continued onwards. 

The bus fare was cheap, costing about £1.50 return for a 90-minute each-way ride, and I had thoughts of crossing off the ground and enjoying an ice-cold beer and lunch in a beach bar. The journey was OK, but it was taking slightly longer than anticipated. I should have known better as a regular to the city, but the traffic was horrendous. 

On arrival in Chonburi, I realised I would have just over an hour in town before my return journey. Then I realised that Chonburi is not a very touristy place despite being on the coast and I don’t think I saw another westerner during my short stay. Well, at least Google Maps showed it was by the Gulf, but as on other occasions, I’d miscalculated the size of the town I was visiting.

There were no taxis, maps or anything written in English. I set off walking in what I naively thought was the right direction but soon realised that I was going nowhere fast, so I faced the situation and asked the way to the beach which is where I thought the stadium was. 

A 7/11 shop assistant told me that any songthaew, or small local bus to the uninitiated, outside would take me to the beach. I was soon on board the next service and spotting the promising signs of floodlights ahead. I rang the bell and enthusiastically sprinted up the steps which gave passengers a safe crossing over the dual carriageway.

I took photos of the sparse stadium through the surrounding railings, which I hoped was my intended target, while never totally convincing myself that I was in the right location. There was no one around except an old caretaker whose English was even more lacking than my Thai!

I now had the problem of finding my way back to the bus station as time was getting short. I stood there without the sign of a taxi until I gave in and hailed a motorbike taxi. Yes, unbelievably, this is an extremely popular form of transport over there. I hadn't been on the back of a bike since I was nineteen when I was petrified and drunk. 

We went all of twenty yards before I begged my pilot to stop. I’d rather have been stranded for the night and face Steve’s wrath than ride on the back. I stood there not really knowing what to do. A couple of locals obviously realised that I was having problems and were doing all they could to suppress laughter after experiencing my brief motorbike excursion.

After what seemed like a lifetime, I saw a songthaew approaching so I flagged it down and took a chance on it taking me somewhere near the bus station. I alighted in the town centre and went into a shop, showing my bus ticket so to indicate as where I wanted to go. I made it back with two minutes to spare, to my huge relief. 

I jumped out of the bus early on my return using my knowledge of that part of Bangkok and got into a taxi back towards Steve’s house when my unhappy host's name appeared on the phone as it rang. I explained I was en route, but he seemed terribly upset. He’d had a difficult day at the office so sitting outside his locked house in blazing sun didn't particularly help. 

I felt even more stupid when after investigation I’d not found my intended target, but I’d gone past it on the way back for my bus. I had taken photos of a college facility! 

The following day I stayed close to base. I eventually made it to Chonburi Municipality Stadium many years later.

Chonburi 1 TOT SC 1 (Sunday 2^nd November 2014) Thai Premier League (att: 7,666)

I was back in Thailand once again in October; a country I had thoroughly loved visiting for sport, sightseeing and socialising many times over the previous ten years. This time I was scheduled to spend the first week with my friends of the Beer Battered Seadogs Cricket Club in Pattaya. 

We then headed up to Bangkok to play in the Chaophya Park Thailand International Cricket Sixes. The second week would see some time spent in Singapore before returning to the Land of Smiles for the last round of Thai Premier League matches.

It looked like I’d finally get to watch a Chonburi home game on Wednesday 22nd October as the fixtures had them down to play a home game against Bangkok United in what looked like an excellent fixture to introduce my friends to the delights of Thai football.

Most of my teammates were also keen on the idea, so plans were put in place with Dale Farrington, who runs the English-language Chonburi FC website. That was until the Thai FA had other ideas.

It seems remarkable, and it puts into perspective the moans of Premier League fans in the UK, but the last six rounds of fixtures were changed with just ten days prior notice. It looked like I wouldn’t get the chance to go to Chonburi Stadium.

But little did I know what was in store, and I obviously hadn't heeded the previous experience, when accounting for the vagaries of Thai football.

Fate was to play a huge hand. I had intended to go to the PAT Stadium for Singhtarua v Sisaket on the final day, with the Port side being my preferred go-to option when given the opportunity. 

Unfortunately, the stupidity of some of the Port supporters along with those of Muang Thong United had led to their fans being banned from the last four rounds of games and each club being deducted nine points. My pal Steve had gone and said it was major crowd trouble.

Despite having an early flight on the Monday after the final game, I contacted Dale in the hope of getting a ticket for the possible league decider against TOT. Things had been going swimmingly for The Sharks as they had reached the FA Cup Final and were top of the table with two games remaining. 

If he could pull off a huge favour for me, we would have the chance to finally meet up, and I would see his club and fans in a crucial match to get full value from the experience.

The previous Wednesday they slipped up and drew 1-1 at Chainat while nearest challengers Buriram United, owned by Leicester City owners King Power had brushed aside TOT in Bangkok. 

On judgement day Chonburi needed to win and hope Buriram didn’t against Police United. One thing was for sure. I was a Sharks fan for the day when Dale passed on the good news that he’d sorted me a ticket, so the trip was on. 

My good friend Steve’s girlfriend Fah sorted me a taxi out from my hotel on the outskirts of the capital down the gulf to the match, so off we set as heavy rain engulfed the area. We got slightly lost and passed the school field I’d visited a few years earlier in the belief that it was the home of the Sharks. How little I knew back then!

There was a certain irony not lost on Dale or me, as Scarborough and Oldham Athletic fans met on a miserable afternoon weather-wise. “All we are missing is the chippy over the road”, as my host commented.

We settled down to some pre-match beers as other ex-pats started to arrive, some with their wives. Tim and Brian had gone to the midweek game and weren’t especially impressed with the tactics of coach Wada or the match officials. 

The consensus was that Chonburi’s chance had gone with their draw a few days previously, although the supply of Chang’s installed a little more optimism from the growing crowd. It was good to see football fans are the same around the world.

Dale had added some humour to what was obviously going to be a tense couple of hours as the gang were provided with masks of Wednesday’s linesman Suchart Fangmala and miniature linesmen flags to wave just like their ‘favourite’ linesman had done at Chainat to rule out a couple of legitimate goals.

The performance of the officials in that game offered me the answer when I asked if Chonburi could win the FA Cup. One said that it depended on what the referee and Thai FA had decided.

The rain abated as we entered Chonburi Stadium just before the playing of the King’s Anthem. It was comforting to be with other fans who had also made the last-minute dash. Despite the athletic track around the pitch, it was an impressive sight from upstairs in the Main Stand. 

So was the amount of replica shirts on show. The home fans were certainly up for it, as was star man Tiago Cunha. He opened the scoring with an incredible overhead kick to send the vast majority of the near capacity crowd into raptures. It really was a world class goal.

We returned to find our bag of beers still waiting on the table by the security guys by the entrance at the halftime interval. Somehow, I couldn’t imagine that scenario being respected back in the UK. 

Hope sprung eternal amongst the ex-pat Sharks after the restart. The only downer was that Buriram had also gone in leading 1-0 at the break in their game.

Before I left Bangkok, I had predicted to Steve that there would be some inaccurate score rumours going around the stadium at some point having experienced such nerve-jangling final-day outcomes in the past.

Brian had the scores on his phone, but they sometimes took a minute or so to update. A massive roar went around the stadium like wildfire a few minutes after the interval to herald what everyone thought was a goal for Police.

Within a minute or so the place was going absolutely berserk. Hand signals among the crowd were showing 2-1 to Police. However, Brian’s phone was not showing any change. I tried to ring Steve, but communication was impossible in the ensuing bedlam.

My friends must have really been going through it. It was difficult enough as a semi-neutral, albeit one who desperately wanted Buriram to blow their opportunity.

Unfortunately, it got through and affected the home team as they lost concentration. In particular, Chonburi’s Suttinun Phuk-hom, who then headed the equaliser past his own keeper. There was a mixture of shock and anger, but still plenty of time left. 

A lifeline was thrown up north as Police pulled a goal back. The title was still up for grabs. Could we be about to witness something dramatic and a huge celebration?

TOT defended like lions as well as being ultra professional in managing to fall down at convenient moments. The stretcher bearers were put on double time with their exertions carting off the stricken visitors who re-appeared Lazurus style within seconds. 

I feared Dale was going to pop when Chonburi threw TOT the ball back after one such display of chicanery, rather than press forward. Thais are lovely people, but good manners should have been forgotten for twenty minutes.

Half chances went begging. Tiago argued with everyone including himself, while Fode Diakite contrived to miss a relatively simple header in front of goal. If truth be told the Sharks lacked ideas, and the ones that they had were running out quickly.

It turned into a game of attack against defence, as seen on training grounds around the world. It was extremely frustrating for my pals.

The referee blew his whistle to end the agony. Buriram had held on to lift the TPL. TOT avoided relegation. The home side received a deserved great ovation.  I followed Dale and his wife Nui to the barrier near where the players sometimes came back out. 

Before long TOT’s Bas Savage who had enjoyed a good lower-division career in England joined us for an enlightening chat about life as an overseas player in the TPL. He turned out to be a really top bloke.

Dale kindly dropped me at Central Plaza, as Nui negotiated me a taxi back to Minburi. I got back to see the other goals on the TV in an open street bar as a band played their own brand of rock music. 

They must have been good, as I bought them a beer each! Singhtarua had also avoided relegation in their vital clash. The away end seemed oddly packed and celebrating when they scored. Some enterprising fans had ‘adopted’ Sisaket for the day!

It had been a near as perfect last day of my holiday as was possible. Seeing my wonderfully hospitable hosts celebrating with the title would have been the icing on the cake. 

I passed on my thanks and eternal gratitude to all those at Chonburi for looking after me on what must have been a difficult day alongside a neutral. The ticket was definitely worth £4!

Weeks later I was still trying to get my head around why so many football loving expats didn’t go and watch their local Thai clubs. They really were missing out, even if the organisation could sometimes be erratic.

Thailand 2 Nepal 0 (Thursday 24th March 2022) International Friendly (att: 3,386)

 

As a resident of Thailand, I was not going to turn down the opportunity of going to cheer on the national team, especially as I fancied a return to Chonburi. Tickets for this game and the following Sunday against Suriname were easy to come by via Thai Ticket Major.

There were several ways of heading down the Gulf to the city, but in the end, the advice of friends saw me decide to try to do it by minibus. Sure enough, there was a service from the specific small van station over the road from Chatuchak 2 Market.

 

It gave me enough time to grab some provisions before we departed, with my drop-off point being opposite Central Chonburi, ideal for my hotel. It took around fifteen minutes from the mall to find my excellent accommodation for the evening at Central Place which cost 668 Baht.

There was time for a nap prior to setting off for a stroll towards the Chonburi Stadium, which was around twenty minutes away. It was good to see plenty of activities for fans outside, as a real effort had been made. 

There was nowhere selling beer, and those imbibing were buying from the 7/11 at the far end where my ticket was for the gate on Soi Nartmontasevee 30. I grabbed a couple of small cans and mingled around the Ultras, who set off a pyro display before they entered the stadium.

The crowd in general was family orientated. It was good to see the Thai FA offer the fans of a footballing stronghold the chance to see their national team. It was a case of finding the best seat as the ticket wasn’t numbered. I got a decent view towards the back of the curve.

The match itself would struggle to find a highlights package, but it wasn’t pedestrian. Nepal were serious and were determined not to lose, using every trick in the book to contain their hosts, and by regularly putting ten men behind the ball.

I later read that the visitors were missing some of their star names, so a little understanding is fair. I’m not sure what to say about the first half, apart from Thailand were attacking towards our end, or at least were supposed to, beer wasn’t allowed in the stands, and Pujan Uparkoti of Nepal was shown a yellow card. 

Kevin Deeromram for the home side put in a low cross-come shot that away keeper Kiran Chemjong Limbu dealt with after three minutes. The goalie then easily saved a side-footed effort from Picha Autra and then smothered from Tristan Do.

Pathompol Charoenrattanapirom fired high and wide while Chemjong Limbu made himself the centre of attention several times with theatrical catches. Charoenrattanapirom was a little closer soon after the restart from the edge of the box. 

A curling effort from Adisak Kraisorn was just too high as Changsuek continued to press. Deeromram somehow sliced wide after forcing himself through on goal on the left hand side of the penalty area as the pressure mounted, with Manuel Bihr having an effort pushed away.

Pansa Hemviboon saw his header come back off the bar with the keeper motionless before the deadlock was finally broken with twelve minutes left on the clock. Philip Roller cut inside in the box and his left footed drive found the top corner of the net via a deflection.

Sasalak Haiprakhon went close with a low drive before a low shot from Chaowat Veerachat in the final minute of normal time securing the victory. It had been hard work, but Thailand got there in the end.

At full time I had plans. HopfAddict looked tempting on the way to the match with its range of foreign beers, but the prices were on the steep side. Instead, I headed to Queen Bar. It had decent reviews and they had been kind enough to reply to my enquiries on Facebook. 

It proved to be an excellent choice. The owner was a lovely man, as were the staff and customers along with a decent acoustic guitar singer as well. We got chatting and the boss said to wait so that he could drive me home to my hotel. Outstanding customer service.

It had been another excellent few hours of learning and exploring. The football wasn’t the best, but the people most certainly were.

Many thanks to Chonburi FC fan Dale Farrington for providing information for this piece. Dale compiles the excellent and highly recommended fanzine/blog, It's A Habit That Sticks.