Suphachalasai Stadium (Bangkok)

Suphachalasai Stadium in central Bangkok is part of the National Stadium complex, which also includes Thephasadin Stadium, next door. Just a little further along the main road stands the indoor Nimibutr Arena completing a fine array of sporting facilities.

As of 2023, the area was still in use regularly, though the Sports Authority of Thailand facility on Ramkhamhaeng Road which included the newer Rajamangala Stadium seemed to attract more events, especially large concerts.

Suphachalasai Stadium is a multi-purpose arena that was opened in 1935 with a modern capacity around of 20,000. Over the years it hosted many football internationals before the construction of Rajamangala.

Several different Thai league clubs, including Chonburi have also used the stadium, particularly for Asian Football Confederation competitions as many league grounds don't meet the criteria required while often staging domestic finals and showpiece matches, including the 2010 Kor Cup clash between Muangthong United and Port FC that ended early owing to crowd violence.

Suphachalasai was used as the main stadium for the 1966, 1970 and 1978 Asian Games. It also staged the game between Oman and Iraq in the 2007 AFC Asian Cup. Michael Jackson played two sell out concerts in the stadium in August 1993.

In 2013 the stadium was given a refurbishment and a new running track. The arena staged the athletics events in the 2023 Asian Games after being further spruced up.

My visits

April 2008

In Thailand primarily for the Chiang Mai International Cricket Sixes and a holiday afterwards, I was staying at Steve and Ea's on the outskirts of the city and decided that a day looking at the stadiums in the city was in order.

I took the sky train to the station called National Stadium, which is extremely convenient. Next door stands the Thephasadin Stadium, which was used at the time by various club sides. It was like a warmup stadium for the main structure by the looks of things.

I was delighted to see the goods entrance opened by the main gates, so I wandered in. There were many labourers readying the stadium for the next event, but a smile did the trick, and I was inside.

The stadium had a running track, but the stands were right alongside it and were steeply banked. Three sides were opened with a roof over the main straight of the track. I could easily imagine it being able to create a good atmosphere with a big crowd.

I left and found several side streets behind the covered side were the hub of sports equipment in the country. Rows and rows of shops sold replica shirts of varying authenticity at wide price ranges depending on the naivety and bargaining power of the buyer.

I found the shop of Grand Sport, the company that provided kits to many Thai League teams and bought a few shirts for my collection. I just wish Thai sizes were the same as in the UK!

Monday 28th October 2013

With the day to myself following a brilliant couple of weeks in Thailand and the Cricket Sixes complete, with my travelling companions heading home I decided to fill in the day before my evening flight home.

I’d called in to take photos next door at Thephasadin Stadium before once again finding the huge corner gate open into the main arena. Construction work was going on to the running track. The seating areas looked in brilliant condition, as did the pitch which was being watered.

I took time out to walk right around the stadium, and inside the concourse which housed many of the nation’s sporting institutions, including the National Refereeing Institute, The Sports Association for the Disabled of Thailand, and the FA of Thailand. I got an unobstructed view through the railed gates from the far end of the arena.

Outside I stopped to watch and film some local lads playing the Thai football game of takraw, which is like head tennis played on training grounds around the world. The difference in Thailand is that the ball is made of woven rattan which can be seen here on the video I took.

Like on my previous visit, I wanted to return home with a souvenir, so I went in search of the shops selling team shirts, which I discovered to be around Chulalongkorn 2 and 4. There was lots of choice for anyone not of such a full figure, but after plenty of perusal, I bought a fine Chamchuri United top for around a tenner.

I headed back to Asoke to drain the last drop out of my stay before heading to the airport after another amazing holiday in the Land of Smiles.

Thursday 29th October 2015

I was in Bangkok following the Thailand International Cricket Sixes. After the tournament, we visited Pattaya before returning to the capital, where I undertook the role of tour guide to a trio of mates. I had a big day planned for us all, which covered most bases.

After a pleasant lunch, we headed on the Sky Train to the National Stadium so that my mates could look inside and take photos. The gate was open, and the place was deserted so we had could take our time.

Once we were done, we took taxis to the Grand Palace, on a riverboat trip on the Chao Phraya River, a wander down Khao San Road and then an evening's Thai boxing at the Ratchadamnoen Boxing Stadium to round off a magnificent day.

Muang Thong United 2 Chiangrai United 0 (Wednesday 22^nd November 2017) Thai League Cup Final (16,788)

Luck was finally on my side to enable me to watch a game at Supachalasai Stadium while I enjoyed a few days holiday in Bangkok following the 2017 Thailand International Cricket Sixes.

The Thai FA can be sometimes erratic with their planning, but this time they came up trumps. Indeed, if I had been staying a few days longer I would have also had the opportunity to attend the FA Cup final.

The event had gone well personally as an administrator, even if not on the pitch for the touring Beer Battered Seadogs. We’d enjoyed every minute together in a great city. The last of the boys had gone home on the morning of the match, to allow me some downtime.

And boy I needed it, to let the body and mind rest and allow for a bit of personal pampering without having to consider others or be anywhere at a set time.

After moving from the Windsor Suites Hotel, I decided to give the famous Nana Hotel a go. It turned out to be a bit of a mistake, with the room having no windows and dated average facilities to boot. The location, however, was excellent.

It provided everything for any tourist in search of food, drinks, and various forms of entertainment within a few yards. I wasn't going to be spending much time indoors after all.

I’d booked the match tickets online by opening an account with Thai Ticket Major for myself and Steve Walker, who was to head into the city after work. My instructions were to collect the tickets from one of their several outlets.

I headed to Siam Central in the heart of the city and found the ticket desk on the seventh floor. It’s fair to say that I was less than impressed to be told that I needed to pick them up before the match at the stadium.

There had been no indication of this in my confirmation email. The lady said it was the norm from seven days before an event. This would have taken some doing as tickets only went on sale nine days before the final. It was Thai bureaucracy at its best.

Following a much-needed siesta, I met Steve in Starbucks by the main intersection. We had lots of time to kill, so once I’d used his phone for a call with fellow Chiang Mai International Cricket Sixes committee man George Appleton, we decided to walk to the stadium.

It proved a prudent plan as several buildings on the route offered desperately appreciated facilities. The hot Bangkok weather and an unhealthy diet eventually did for me.

Crowds were building from the Nimibutr Indoor Stadium and then outside Thephasadin Stadium, primarily with Muang Thong supporters, despite there being just under three hours until kick-off. It promised a decent atmosphere for the match.

A security check was required to enter the main forecourt outside the National or Supachalasai Stadium. Inside the crowds were larger as both clubs had souvenir stalls set up, and several sponsors promoted their wares.

The queue for tickets was painless. Larger queues formed for fans to have their photo taken with the League Cup. The whole atmosphere was vibrant but relaxed. We continued round to where our entrance would be to the stadium.

Fortunately, further facilities had been provided outside. It gave me a surreal moment in the loos, listening to Steve trying to explain to the local police where Scarborough was and what league the Boro played in, as we were both wearing replica shirts.

Eventually, we found our way to what I thought was a familiar area near the new Chula University buildings. The whole area had received a makeover since my previous visit, with lots of new little squares and modern constructions appearing.

It looked like they had replaced the old area selling football shirts and equipment. A decent-sized group of Chiangrai fans had gathered to set up an impromptu party around food and drink vendors.

After I had taken some tablets for my tummy issues, we decided to eat in one of the many local outlets. Steve went for the beef stew on rice, while I had the Chinese-style chicken in sauce with rice. The food was exceptional, even if the portions were small. Each dish cost 50 Baht, which was just over £1 at the exchange rate of the time.

Walking back towards the stadium I suddenly noticed the football shops. We had been a block out. As time was on our side, I had the opportunity to check out and find my nephew Stan a couple of kits. The Paris St Germain and AS Roma sets cost a combined total of 500 Baht.

Delighted with my purchases we headed back to the stadium, with just under an hour to kick off. We had to go right back to the far end and gain admission through security once again. We had another check before reaching our gate and had our hand stamped in case we wanted to pop out for food and drink.

I had bought us the most expensive tickets for 150 Baht down the main side and under the huge roof in the Chiangrai United section, just in case of any heavy showers. We had been caught out in the past at Port’s TAT Stadium and didn’t want it happening again.

Seats were unreserved, so we found a decent place towards the back. The arena gradually began to fill, with the MTU section already busy with fans signing and hanging their banners.

There had been an expose of bribery and match-fixing charges involving players of Sisaket and Navy, as well as match officials a few days before the final. This was not a huge surprise to regular viewers who’d long suspected that some referees could not be so accidentally incompetent.

The Muang Thong fans displayed a banner saying Money Cannot Buy History, as a dig at the heavily spending Chiangrai. While history was not available for cash, it was claimed that some referees were.

CRU are the furthest northern side in the competition, so their support was always going to be dwarfed by that of the local side MTU. Their mission hadn’t been made easy by the planning of the Thai FA.

Chiangrai had also reached the final of the FA Cup, which was taking place against Bangkok United the following Saturday. This meant any fans travelling by road would arrive back in their northern city after the match and then set off again twenty-four hours later if they were to attend both games.

Despite this, The Beetles had a decent following; no doubt boosted by neutrals and several Port fans who would cheer for the underdogs and naturally disliked all things MTU. Steve and I fitted those categories.

As the teams came out the MTU tried to put on a banner display similar to the ones seen at German stadia. Hilariously they tried to show 1989 to signify the year of their foundation on four separate sheets. Those in charge of one sheet had it back to front and then upside down to the hilarity of everyone else.

To see the arrival of the teams and the King's Anthem, click here.

There was no doubt that Muang Thong was the ultimate corporate machine with Ultra fans, a smart purpose-built stadium, big sponsors, and star players. It could have been Manchester United, right down to the playing kit.

Like the English version, they also got the rub of the green with every 50/50 decision, or so it seemed. It was to be the case once again as referee Siwakorn Phoo-udom did his absolute best to oblige.

Teerasil Dangda was undoubtedly a talented footballer and the darling of the Thai game, but he may as well have refereed the match himself. He could have easily been shown a yellow card on three occasions, yet if a defender went near him, he received a free kick.

Brazilian midfielder Heberty Fernandes also looked to simulate and look for assistance from the officials. I far preferred the excellent play of left-back Theerathon Bunmathan.

Chiang Rai played some fine football, with their Brazilian forward Rafael Coelho doing his best to lead the line. In truth, they were missing a big man up front to put pressure on the shaky MTU defence. They escaped far too many times.

The game ebbed and flowed and was decent enough until the deadlock was broken ten minutes before the break. Heberty was adjudged to have been fouled around twenty-five yards out. His free kick was excellently saved by Chatchai Budprom, but full-back Peerapat Notchaiya followed up to smash the ball home from an acute angle.

CRU came out to give it a real go in the second half, cheered on by their appreciative rather than fanatical following. They really did miss a decent forward. Despite having plenty of play and plenty of pressure, they didn’t have the vital cutting-edge.

The game was decided on the hour mark. MTU soaked up the pressure before a fine slide rule pass sent in Teerasil to slot home and make it 2-0 to the elation of the Kirins fans behind the goal.  

To Chiang Rai’s credit, they continued to do their best, when it must have been tempting to save some energy for the FA Cup Final a few days later. Midfielder Everton Gonçalves was sent off in the final minute of normal time with a second yellow card.

We made our way down to the front and then out of the gate in the hope of beating the MTU crowds to the main road and transport systems. It didn’t quite pan out that way.

The queues were already huge for the BTS Sky Train, so we set off walking. The traffic was piling out of MBK and Siam shopping and entertainment complexes at the same time as the football finished leading to large traffic snarl-ups.

Steve went ahead to try and get a cab to Minburi. I toyed with several ideas before I too hailed a taxi back to Nana. The traffic was so bad that my driver found it quicker going south through Khlong Toei, up to Asoke and then down the opposite side of Sukhumvit Road.

Once I’d dumped my gear in my room I headed out for a few beers. I had a relaxed few in Speakeasy on Soi 15 catching up on the week's football highlights before heading to the Bier Garden for an entertaining hour or so.

It had been a decent evening night out, even if the match result wasn’t as I would have preferred. I awoke the next day in fine form and headed to the Kiwi Bar to watch the opening day’s play in The Ashes. That was a whole new tale!

SRV FC 4 Sarawittaya School 1 (Monday 28^th August 2023) Thailand Prime Minister Cup u16 Bangkok Zone (att: c100)

Occasionally random friendly games with amateurs crop up so I check out my saved clubs on Facebook a couple of times a week. One, Bangkapi FC showed a video of their juniors in action, so I explored further, finding that two semifinals were being played at Supachalasai National Stadium.

With a few spare hours and nothing on at home, I made the decision to head out for the day knowing that I was going to the Muangthong United v Port game later that evening. A couple of different took me to Bangkapi. 

From there boat down the canal went directly into the city from where it was a short walk to the stadium, which had seen its surroundings engulfed in recent years in a similar fashion to Wembley Stadium, only in a more pleasant environment. It really had changed since my first visit.

Armed with drinks and snacks from the local 7/11 I entered the main stand and tried to decipher who the teams were. I had a schedule along with the two initial groups on my phone, which Google Translate helped me with. 

I was initially confused on arrival midway through the first half as when there was a break for drinks as both sides got their water from the nearest bench plus everyone was wearing the same shorts and socks. 

I saw some spectators wearing the name of SRV on their backs, and did a Google and Facebook search which took me to the school which had its own football page, where low and behold the game was being screened live. 

I sought out the commentator and at halftime, he confirmed that both teams were from the same establishment. There was no schoolmate stuff around the match mind, with Sarawittaya on top before SRV took the lead before the break. 

They extended the lead before it went back to 2-1. As the limbs tired on a stunning afternoon and play became stretched on the full-sized pitch in superb surroundings another couple of goals followed.

Excellent fun, as the second two semifinalists limbered up for their later 4.15pm clash waiting for their turn in such an impressive location. It was good to see the facility being utilised properly, with such a good playing surface allowing the youngsters to portray their talent.

My visit is covered here in the first part of the video made for 

A Thai Football Podcast.

The final was at the same venue at 3.30 on Thursday but I decided another trek into the city for that one, was a bit too much. At full time I headed by sky train to Victory Monument hoping the info my travel app was throwing up was accurate so that I could beat the traffic in time for beers in Nonthaburi.

 

Muangthong United

 

Muangthong United FC, is a major football club based in Nonthaburi to the north of Bangkok in Thailand. The club were formed in 1989 under the ownership of Siam Sports Syndicate. The SCG, which the club added in front of their title.

This was to acknowledge Siam Cement Group who became major backers of the club in February 2012. 'The Twin Qilins' joined the third tier of Thailand football in 2007 as Muang Thong Nong Jork United, winning the title in their inaugural season and gaining promotion. 

United built relationships with both Arsenal and Lierse to assist with their development. In 2008 they lifted the Thai Division One title at their first attempt to win promotion to the Thai Premier League as the combination of Yaya Soumahoro and Jacques Tioye rattled in the goals.

Players were recruited as significant sums of money were pumped into the club. In their first seasons in the TPL United were crowned as champions as Attaphol Buspakom took over as coach from Surasak Tansurat. The feat was repeated in 2010 as Dagno Siaka ended as top scorer for a second consecutive season.

FA Cup runs also followed. In 2010 the trophy was denied in the final by a 2-1 defeat to Chonburi. The following year Buriram PEA ran out 1-0 winners after extra time, with Robbie Fowler as player-manager of MTU after replacing Henrique Calisto who had come in for Roberto Carlos who had been appointed in place of René Desaeyere in a chaotic season.

The club had built their own stadium in the new development of Muang Thong Thani in Pak Kret by the expressway, which was unusual in Thailand as it had no running track. Originally called Thunderdome Stadium, it became Yamaha Stadium and then the SCG Stadium at the same time as the sponsorship deal. 

After the third-place league finish in 2011, the former Red Star Belgrade, Chelsea, and Serbia star Slaviša Jokanović joined the club as head coach as he led the side to the 2012 TPL title with star of Thai football, Teerasil Dangda putting away the goals.

Winfried Schäfer took over as team boss following the success, only to be replaced by the returning Desaeyere whose side ended as runners-up. Scott Cooper lasted for a short while in the 2014 campaign with Dragan Talajić appointed in his place as United finished fifth in the TPL as Mario Gjurovski top scored.

The final placing was not helped by a nnine-pointdeduction to both Muangthong and Singhtarua following crowd violence between the two set of fans after the derby at the SCG Stadium which saw away fans banned from the fixture for the near future.

Led by skipper Datsakorn Thonglao, the team finished as runners up to runaway champions Buriram United in 2015. They lost 3-1 to the same opponents in the FA Cup final at Supachalasai Stadium on Boxing Day with Cleiton Silva the latest goalscoring hero.

Talajić was replaced by Totchtawan Sripan, as Muangthong, spurred on by the goals once again of Silva, went on to become league champions in 2016, backing up the triumph by also sharing the League Cup with Buriram United after the final was postponed following the death of King Bhumibol Adulyadej.

The team qualified out of the group stages in the 2017 AFC Champions League before going out in the Round of 16 to Kawasaki Frontale of Japan. Meanwhile, Teerasil Dangda was coming to the fore on the pitch, inspiring his teammates as he captained the side.

United ended as runners-up in the league in 2017 with Brazilian star Leandro Assumpção leading the scoring after being signed from Sisaket. The League Cup was won with a 2-0 victory over Chiangrai United with goals from Peerapat Notchaiya and Dangda.

Dangda departed to Sanfrecce Hiroshima as Muangthong ended in a disappointing fourth place in the 2018 domestic season despite the regular goals of Heberty. Sripan was replaced by Radovan Ćurčić in March 2018. 

Pairoj Borwonwatanadilok was appointed as head coach for the 2019 season until he was replaced by Yoon Joong-hwan as the side ended fifth again in the top tier. Thai football adjusted its calendar to the same as Europe for the 2020-21 campaign.

MTU finished seventh after SCG ended their association with the club meaning a decline in player investment, departures, as well as often empty stadiums owing to the Covid-19 pandemic. Team boss Alexandre Gama had been replaced by Mario Gjurovski in October 2020.

The Macedonian coach led United to fourth position in 2021-22 as Brazilian Willian Popp topped the scoring charts. The same position was attained in 2023-24 with again Popp producing the goods after Miloš Joksić had been appointed as interim head coach a month into the season.

Muangthong also went on to reach the final of the League Cup, where they went down to a stoppage-time goal against BG Pathum United scored by their former hero Teerasil. Gino Lettieri was appointed as head coach in July 2024 as changes were made to the playing personnel.

Muangthong United will play in the Thai League 1 in the 2024-25 season.

My visits

SCG Muangthong United 2 Bangkok Glass 2 (Wednesday 28th March 2012) Thai Premier League (att: 15,000)

I had been keen to take in more matches while holidaying in Thailand for some time. I had visited the country often enough, but I always found myself busy when football took place with my cricket commitments. 

After taking the plunge through joining Twitter, the App opened all manner of information. A German/Thai website and Twitter account were most useful. The guys running it gave me regular updated information, which was much appreciated. 

As luck would have it, there was to be a full midweek programme during the week I had designated for sightseeing and doing whatever I wanted. The standout match was the clash at SCG Stadium on Wednesday evening.

I returned from a lovely time in Kanchanaburi and got back to the Admiral Premier Hotel in Bangkok, where my good friend Steve Walker was awaiting my arrival. We headed round to The Crossbar for another top-notch meal and to meet up with old friends before heading off to the stadium. 

Steve had been to the stadium with his brother-in-law Mark and nephew Perry a couple of years previously, but the match was abandoned as the pitch became waterlogged after a few minutes with only the offer of returning to the re-arranged game as compensation.

We walked down Sukhumvit Road to what we thought would be the easiest place to grab a taxi to the stadium. About ten drivers all turned the fare down, and I was starting to get concerned when I pointed to Steve that a car had an MTU scarf in it. 

Steve managed to get the young driver to wind his window down and ask if he was going to the game? He was, and even better he didn't mind us getting a lift, or at least we think that's what he meant! The fan was called Fiat and he lived in Bangkok but had a season ticket for MTU. His English team was Manchester United.

Fiat was a true gentleman. I think he enjoyed his chat with us about football in particular the English Premier League. He explained the reasons why we were being turned down by the taxis. The SCG Stadium was across the road from the Impact Arena, Bangkok's biggest exhibition centre and indoor concert arena. 

They had put on a gig featuring one of Thailand's biggest names and were holding the Motor Show at the same time as a full house was expected over the road for the football. Steve put it down to typical Thai planning. The traffic was horrendous and at a standstill for much of the journey of around 20km. Fiat was growing increasingly anxious that he was going to miss much of the match. 

Time was ticking by, and we still couldn't see the stadium. At last, we crawled down the slip road with the floodlights in view, but the jams were as bad. Fiat told us to get out and go for it. He still had the problem of trying to find somewhere to park his car. He was a legend. He refused any money and wouldn't even take anything for the toll road tariffs.

We dodged in and out of traffic to reach the stadium and then the ticket office. Kick-off had been put back to allow for the crowds. Steve said we wanted tickets for the South End, which was terracing. He came back shaking his head. We could only get in down the side. I muttered that we'd be in with the old folks. How wrong I was.

A young lady took our ticket stubs and stamped our wrists, so we could go back out if we required to use any of the facilities. Our tickets, which I later discovered had 'complimentary' stamped on them!, didn't have a designated row or seat. We somehow spotted two seats together and were greeted with warm smiles by the locals. 

A couple of westerners were in the row in front. Increased numbers of fans were coming in and were sitting in the aisles. It was soon apparent that they were selling more tickets than they officially had space for! As for my assumption about the older folk. Well, we must have been pushing on for being the eldest there. 

Thai clubs are supported by the new generation who love the way clubs and the leagues try to emulate the European setups. There were some real youngsters, but most fans were aged between fourteen- and thirty-year-old of both sexes. They loved making a noise.

Our seats were level with the halfway line and cost 150 baht (around £1.80). The stand we were in had a tier of seats with boxes at the rear. On top of those was another deck of seating. Further up the touchline was the away fans section, where we reckoned around 2,500 Bangkok Glass fans were rammed in. 

To our right was the South End, which was where the main Ultras stood and made a real noise. The North End was also for standing fans. They were matched by the fans at the other end. 

Opposite us was the final stand, which joined up in the corners to the end stands and contained the player's facilities, press box, TV tower and seating. Every space was packed. The stewards and security let people sit and stand where they could without interfering. God, it was refreshing. 

We were expecting a convincing home win and I predicted 4-1, as MTU had hammered Thai Port 5-1 at home in their weekend fixture. However, Glass had not read the script and they played the better of the football. MTU missed an absolute sitter after some great approach play and a layback, but Glass also created plenty. 

United spurned another opportunity before the visitors took the lead after a good ball sent the wide man through. He laid it square for Thai international striker Teeratep Winothai to slot home to send 'The Glass Rabbit' fans wild with delight.

MTU went in level at the break thanks to the award of a very soft penalty. Dutch forward Adnan Barakat went over a defender's leg in the style of Ashley Young. It looked terrible from our vantage point. He got up and put the penalty away himself. 

At half time I went in search of refreshments. It was still very warm despite it being around 9pm. I went behind the away section to get a feel of the atmosphere. There was the occasional 'farang' (westerner) around, but the demographics were much the same as in our section. 

The away fans Bunny Girls Dance Team distracted me from queueing, but I was soon being served two large cups of coke for around 50p. I had to chuckle at the elevated expressway, which was perched near the away section. It would have led to chaos in the UK amongst those with evil intent.

I found my way back for the second half, in which Glass continued to play the better football. Too many players, particularly the Africans on show were falling over far too frequently for our liking. The visitors regained the lead after a clever short corner routine left Wonothai with a free header, which he didn't waste. 

A fine run and shot from French import Flavien Michelini brought the best out of the MTU goalie to keep them in the game. After gaining more of the control MTU drew level with a fine shot by the Ivorian, Mohamed Koné.    

At full time we headed to the club shop. There was plenty of merchandise to tempt the customers, all at very reasonable prices at least to my income. I settled for a couple of excellently produced match programmes at just 10 baht (20p) each. 

MTU was a bit too like Man Utd for my personal taste. They were slick and professional, but I always did prefer the underdogs. Their style of play hadn't endeared me to them either, although I'd be back to the SCG Stadium like a shot if I was given half a chance.

We went into the South End for photos. Most of the crowd were still in, applauding their heroes as they warmed down. We didn't hang around for long as we needed to grab a taxi back into the city. We got one quite quickly, but the driver wanted 400 baht (£8) to take us back to Soi Cowboy. I told Steve I'd pay for it. It was well worth it and far easier than standing around for another hour.

Within forty minutes we were walking up our favourite little avenue and sitting outside The Moonshine Joint drinking and chatting with pals over for the cricket as well as the excellent Bangkok Post sports reporter Roger Crutchley and bars owner from Newcastle NSW, Steve Hatherall. 

We sat there watching the world go by drinking multiple bottles of San Miguel Lite with the likes of Gavin Shaw, Lemon, Speed, Woodsy and Matt Luton. I was in a wonderful place that evening!

The match and experience had been pretty amazing and wonderful value for money. I would definitely do it again if I received the opportunity. To see a video I took during the match, click here.

Muangthong United 2 Bangkok Glass 1 (Sunday 6^th April 2014) Thai Premier League (att: 15,000)

While I always try and visit new grounds given the opportunity, the repeated clash from my previous visit was an ideal fixture with an 8pm kick-off. It was the day on which I’d returned from yet another magnificent Chiang Mai International Cricket Sixes.

I arrived and checked into the Asia Hotel at Zeer Rangsit and then enjoyed the North Bangkok v Chamchuri United Regional League clash in Pathum Thani which kicked off conveniently at 4pm.

My driver took a most unusual route before we drove along the bank of the Grand Canal, cutting along and dropping me off to the south of the Impact Arena. As with my first visit the match clashed with the motor show inside the arena. 

There was a section at the top end of the complex open with an indoor market and food court which I popped in for a look.

The crowds built up on the walk up to SCG Stadium. I was examining the stadium diagram and the ticket office to see where I fancied sitting when a young lady inside turned the boards around. They read ‘all tickets sold”. 

This was the most alarming news. At the same time, a girl tried to return an unwanted ticket. I helped her out immediately. She was happy taking 100 Baht (around £2) for a 120 Baht ticket behind the goal. I had noted that a VIP ticket was 500 Baht, which I maybe should have considered.

At last, I felt like a beer, so I enjoyed a large Leo before going inside. The ticket had no specific seat, so it was a matter of first come first served. I grabbed a position near the corner, halfway up as the home ultras at either end put on a fine display of banners and singing. They tried extremely hard to replicate European fans.

The home crowd went berserk as they saw that Buriram United had conceded a late goal to draw at Saphanburi. The fans of the Glass Rabbits filled their normal section, so they were given another block as well as a section on the top tier. It really was an incredible atmosphere.

As the teams entered the pitch, I realised that ex-Cardiff City and QPR, amongst many other clubs, striker Jay Bothroyd was playing up front for Muangthong, who I must admit to not being their biggest fan before kickoff. 

The fans were OK and the stadium was excellent, but they had a bit too much commercialism about them. The way some of their players threw themselves around in the corresponding clash in 2012 didn't endear me towards them. 

I also had to chuckle at the strap line by the museum that read that their history never ends, and a banner at the far end reading ‘Welcome to Hell’ to try and intimidate visitors. They had obviously never been to Goole.

I tried to watch the game impartially, but I could see what was coming after just two minutes when Glass full-back Jose Mena was booked for a tame foul on Bothroyd. United powered forward and was given able assistance from the referee and his linesmen. Glass defended well with the charismatic Narit Taweekul in goal.

Gradually the visitors started playing some good stuff of their own as they spread the play and frustrated both the United team and their supporters. The Frenchman Flavien Michelini was excellent wide on the right. Bothroyd had started brightly but then disappeared for prolonged periods

Glass took the lead with a fine move finished with a header from Chatree Chimtalay on twenty-five minutes. I did my best not to cheer too loudly!  Visiting skipper and ex-United player Teeratep Winothai who had a youth career at Crystal Palace and Everton was roundly booed.

 

He looked like a fine player, as someone with 51 international caps should. He was booked and then sent off in injury time in the first half. Neither were particularly bad offences.

Just after his dismissal, Muangthong equalised. The only shock to me was that the ref hadn’t awarded a penalty or scored it himself. As it transpired it was left to Korean defender Dong-Jin Kim to nod home after a mighty scramble.

Halftime came at a suitable time for a stretch and a drink. The temperature was still in the thirties as all the players on both sides gave it everything. I took up a seat in the gangway for the second period to enable a bit more legroom. Individual seats had been added behind the goals since my previous visit, without much thought for anyone over six feet tall.

Michelini went off after ten minutes of the second half after receiving some rough treatment. The game was there for the taking for the home side after the best two Glass players were out of the way. 

They gradually turned the screw, which led to Bothroyd finishing delightfully on sixty-three minutes. The bloke had oozed class when he appeared bothered in a microcosm of his career. I didn’t reckon he deserved the fawning the westerners were giving him from the stands.

United came close on several occasions to add to their lead. They looked a very decent side. It was a shame of the way the match had gone as it promised to be a classic when Glass were at full strength. The visitors nearly grabbed a stoppage-time equaliser as panic spread in the home box, but it wasn’t to be.

The away fans took defeat an awful lot better than I’d have done in their shoes outside the ground, with lots of smiles and handshakes. Thais really are wonderful people. I received a further illustration of this fact as I tried to flag down a taxi. I’d gone over the main road near a massive car park to try and get the first go at a cab.

A couple of drivers knocked me back before a man in a Muangthong shirt asked where I needed to go? He quoted me 200 Baht, which would have been what I expected to pay by the metre, so I gladly accepted. 

He was an off-duty taxi driver who was delighted a westerner had gone to watch his team. We managed a basic chat about the game and the TPL. He showed me a picture of his young son who he was obviously enormously proud of before dropping me off exactly where I needed to be to pick up some supper.

It had been a cracking evening out, even if the game didn’t go the way I’d have preferred. Muangthong United had an awful lot right. It’s just that they were just not entirely my thing.

Muangthong United 0 Buriram United 1 (Saturday 29th January 2022) Thai League 1 (att: 5,875

I had been enjoying every minute of Bangkok since moving permanently to the Land of Smiles a couple of months earlier. The football adventures were living up to expectations as I got around to new venues, but on this occasion, I opted for the biggest game in Thailand all weekend.

Setting out with the best of intentions from Minburi to go all the way by public transport, my plans hit the buffers when I stood on Ram Intra for a good thirty minutes without any sign of the bus that my App said I required. I would learn easier ways in the future.

 

A taxi was hailed with the intention of dropping me outside the Thunder Dome Stadium. However, on the way along Chaeng Wattana-Pak Kret 33, which trendily becomes Bond Street near the new retail developments I saw Nap Bar, so I asked my driver to let me out.

Yes, it was trendy, and just opening for business. The staff seemed a little perplexed but extremely courteous with decent music being played. After just one large bottle of Leo, I continued the ten-minute walk towards the stadium.

 

Under the Ubon Ratthaya Expressway, I came across a fan zone with numerous pop-up bars and got talking to a United and Sunderland fan called Ian, who was a teacher in Bangkok. We had a good chat and took in the fan display from the Curva Sud ultras which can be seen here.

I said my goodbyes after being propositioned by a Thai who wanted me to be his English teacher and chatting an MTU fan originally from Dresden I headed to find my gate behind the near south goal.

It was a sign of the times that the capacity was still restricted, and a girl steward stood at the steps with a board reminding everyone to wear a mask. Covid really was lingering in the air, although it was quite relaxed inside the stadium.

Buriram with an excellent away following really did look a good side. They were well disciplined and reminded me of Liverpool in the 1980s with their solid defence and fine rapid counterattacking play. 

After eating up what early pressure Muangthong put together, for whom I thought Willian Popp led the line well, Buriram went ahead on eight minutes when midfielder Rattanakorn Maikam got on the end of a free kick to score.

After that, the visitors always looked the more likely to score, as MTU huffed and puffed around the last third without ever really making away goalie Siwarak Tedsungnoen do anything of note. 

At full-time, a former MTU player now with Buriram came to the Curva Sud and was given a tremendous ovation. I really liked that. A decent atmosphere in an excellent stadium, with 150 Baht a little on the steep side for a place behind the goal, but worth it.

Previous experience had told me that taxis weren’t easy to come by after a game, so I walked past the car park and the IMPACT Speed Park and flagged one down within a couple of minutes.

 

The exercise must have made me thirsty as my notes suggest I left my local bar at 4am where the girls tried their absolute best to give me lessons in Thai. At least I knew how to say "shut your mouth" in Isaan by the time I got to bed. It’s a tough old life.

Muangthong United 2 Port FC 1 (Saturday 5^th February 2022) Thai League 1 (att: 4,985)

I will always be a football fan before one of the individual clubs in Thailand, particularly as I wanted to get around Bangkok to see matches and meet people as possible. That said, it will always be Port who I cheer for most.

With fans still banned owing to crowd trouble between the two clubs at the Thunderdome eight years earlier I decided I could trust myself to sit in the main stand among home supporters. I paid 180 Baht for the privilege.

 

Arriving this time via a van that dropped me off at Don Muang station, a pleasant walk and then taxi I again headed for the area under the motorway. Again, Ian was there, introducing me to an American who was also a secret Port fan.

Unbelievably he had heard of Scarborough and when he saw the shirt that I was wearing wanted to chat about the infamous Wolverhampton Wanderers match back in 1987 as he had seen a documentary about it with all the crowd trouble. He was astonished when I told him I was at the game, which led to a chat. 

My seat was in the corner near to the North Stand and offered an excellent view. Port were on a poor run of form, which coincidentally started after I attended the first game after the holiday break. I was wondering if I would ever see them win again.

Once again, they put in a powder puff performance which had me trying to silently moan. I really liked defender David Rochela, but he was well past his best as he lacked any pace. Popp was leading him a merry dance.

 

It was the Brazilian who opened the scoring on twelve minutes. Port stayed in the game without offering any real threat up to the interval when I went out the back for a stretch, to find a most welcome feature.

The N Zone fans had their own tub selling ice cold small cans for 40 Baht and played music under the shelter of the indoor arena next door. Someone came around and offered me free grilled pork straight off the barbecue. What lovely people. 

Returning with my optimism restored, I was soon brought back down to earth when Teeraphol Yoryoei doubled the lead. The Lions pulled one back through substitute Seulki Ko with twenty minutes to go.

Hope sprang eternal, but I should have known better. Port were lacking in firepower with Nelson Bonilla shot shy and Sergio Saurez looking ever more frustrated by the appearance. United held on to win with ease. 

After the game, I decided for some reason that the IMPACT Arena and nearby hotels would be a good bet for a taxi. I was wrong but had an interesting walk before finally finding one on Popular Road to take me back to reflect on a decent night but poor Port performance, but it’s only a game!

Muangthong United 0 Port FC 0 (Sunday 9^th October 2022) Thai League 1 (att: 5,311)

 

The away fan ban continued for another year and was starting to get a bit silly. Nevertheless, it wasn’t going to stop me, so I bought the same online ticket as from the previous season.

I had seen a cracker of a game earlier in the afternoon ending 3-3 after 90 minutes, between DX Academy and Hippo FC, who remarkably were drawn away to Muangthong in the FA Cup when the draw was made a couple of days later. 

A taxi dropped me near the fan zone as the rain started to pour down. Fortunately, the cover of the flyover kept me dry while enjoying a beer. I couldn’t see Ian, so I decided to take a punt on the N Zone regulars selling beers after purchasing a programme from the shop behind the stand, the first I had seen post Covid in Thailand.

They were in the same position and could not have been friendlier, while admittedly not knowing I wanted a Port victory. Again, the free pork was offered, and the beer remained cold. A lady tried to sell me a fan t-shirt but there are limits!

 

I went in as the teams came out. I wanted to be there in time for the silence to commemorate the children murdered in an attack in Nong Bua Province a few days earlier, which had devastated the country. Curva Sud held up a banner saying, “Rest in peace angels”. I couldn’t have said it better.

It was fortunate that I had seen some proper excitement on a pitch earlier in the day before this excuse for a game. It was as poor a game as I had seen in my eleven months in Thailand. Both sides lacked confidence and the wherewithal to finish the few chances on offer.

United looked the more likely of the two to score and looked like they had gone ahead on twenty-seven minutes when an unmarked Sardor Mirzaev sneaked in at the near post to put away a cross from Phumin Kaewta.

Fortunately for the visitors, referee Mongkolchai Pechsri was advised to check his VAR monitor where he saw a handball earlier in the move and disallowed the goal. Frans Putros saw a shot saved by home goalie Somporn Yos shortly after.

 

Those were the highlights of the first half. I was heading towards the exit for the break when two local gents shouted at told me to meet them for a beer. Muangthong members, Thumtiti and Mai met me out the back and had a drink with me. Both lovely gents.

Port made a decent opportunity for William Weidersjö who managed to fluff his lines. A decent shot by Teerasak Poeiphimai was pushed around the post by Yos before he denied Hamilton from the resulting corner. The keeper then thwarted Ben Davis as Port enjoyed a good spell. 

The lads had popped down and brought me a beer back, which I didn’t know was permitted, but I wasn’t in the mood to discuss it with friendly hosts. Muangthong forward Poramet Arjvirai was denied by a combination of Negueba and keeper Worawut Srisupha. Anier then volleyed across goal for the home side.

At full time I said goodbye to the lads and ended up under the flyover chatting to expat United fans including a nice catch-up with Ian. We had a laugh at the official gate which was nearer 3,000 and agreed neither side deserved the victory.

It had been a long day, and the exercise, beer and a poor previous night's sleep saw me nod off in my taxi home. Fortunately, the driver had the common sense to wake me as we approached Minburi!

Hokkaido Consadole Sapporo v Kawasaki Frontale (Tuesday 15th November 2022) J League Asian Challenge

What great news. Two top Japanese sides playing an accessible friendly. I bought my ticket with great eagerness after being alerted by my friend Thumtiti and headed to Chaeng Wattana by van before enjoying a walk along the Grand Canal learning as I went.

It was my first time having a look at the sprawling community which offered plenty of local food and drink options. It was a lot bigger than I imagined, but I was soon in sight of the Thunder Dome where there was absolutely no sign of life. 

I went to enquire but nobody was about. I went online to find that the game had been moved earlier in the day to Leo Stadium in Pathum Thani, with little chance of me getting there in time. I trudged away and walked back down to the main road before getting a van back to Minburi.

At least I had a decent and interesting walk, and a few weeks later Thai Ticket Major reimbursed my ticket fee which I hadn't been expecting.

Muangthong United 4 Bangkok United 1 (Saturday 29^th July 2023) Charity Match (att: c2,000)

A comprehensive win for the hosts on their home turf against what I was told was a youthful away side. The match was arranged to raise money for Thai athletes with disabilities. The teams wore numbers in Thai meaning identification was nigh on impossible to me.

Into a strong breeze, MTU played lots of incredibly tight passing football in their own area but kept their opponents at bay who went close when a header went narrowly wide. On the break Muangthong looked dangerous, with away goalie and skipper Warut Makmusik receiving a yellow card for handling outside the box.

It seemed a charitable decision from the ref, fitting of the occasion, but Makmusik was to face real punishment when he dallied on the ball outside the area and was dispossessed as Sarayuth Yusujujae fired into the empty net when the ball fell to him on nineteen minutes.

Chances were exchanged at either end, as the keepers made saves before the interval. With the wind at their backs after the restart, MTU dominated. Poramat Artwilai doubled the lead eleven minutes after the break before Charoensak Wongkorn made it 3-0 a minute later.

Anon Amornlertsak grabbed one back for BU on seventy-six minutes, with a shot from Stefan Shepovich proving too strong for Makmusik in the closing stages to complete the scoring. A well-deserved victory, before my headaches began.

I love living in Thailand and the people, but just sometimes you could scream. I arrived a couple of hours before the game to find huge crowds outside the stadium. Next door to it, literally, ten yards away, is an indoor arena. It was staging a gig from the Korean girl band Aespa at the same time as the match. 

Maybe 30 years ago I would have been in my element with the demographics of the thousands forming the audience who were being marshalled into the correct queues. It was quite orderly. However, it also meant that regular places for drinking had to be changed.

I met my mate Ian at Flann O'Brien's Irish Pub, part of the Impact exhibition centre nearby in what is still a huge growing development on former paddy fields in the north of the capital. It was chaos in the most un Irish pub ever, with long waiting times for a beer to arrive. I had fancied a Guinness or two until I saw it was the equivalent of £10.45 a pint.

A good natter with gents who enrolled me into the MTU Foreign Legion Facebook group despite me cheering for bitter rivals Port, and then drinks under the motorway bridge, normally the domain of S Zone Ultras but on this occasion selling snacks and tacky souvenirs of the performing girls came before the game.

The last time at the Thunder Dome I made friends with two locals who could see I was sitting on my hands at the Port match where away fans are officially banned and looked after me. I met one again behind the stand for more drinks with the N Zone gang who were as friendly as ever.

 

My seat was officially 100 Baht (£2.27) with an extra 30 Baht going to charity. The seat over the railing was 180 for the same view, while the small cans outside were 40 Baht. I’m sure the accountants among you can see where I will sit from now on. That is if I did venture back up that way for a while. 

I loved going to the stadium, the ambience, the way the hosts played, and meeting some great people. But getting away without owning transport is a nightmare. Every time it’s an issue finding a taxi or one that will put its metre on. This time they took full advantage knowing full well an affluent crowd of young women at a concert would pay whatever to get home. Not this Yorkshireman though.

In the end, I walked to the bus depot and caught a service a couple of miles before flagging down a willing taxi. I got home over two hours after full-time. We live sixteen miles away. Hopefully, the sky train will be up and running in a couple of years.

Muangthong United 1 Port FC 3 (Monday 28^th August 2023) Thai League 1 (att: 5,123)

The Viabus app proved to provide excellent information for this Monday night visit following some under sixteens football at Supachalasi Stadium in the Thailand Prime Ministers Cup, ensuring I would reach Muang Thong Thani well ahead of my estimated time of arrival.

I knew that I could catch the number 166 bus, but it took around two hours, even longer in the rush hour traffic. Therefore, I was delighted to discover the number 86 minivan went to Impact Arena via the expressway and only cost 35 baht. It took just over half an hour before being deposited on the first floor of the Cosmo Bazaar.

 A mall with lots of famous options to eat as well as a local food court, it stands beside a large retail park. Some of it was new to me and was continuing to develop. I considered that there would be far worse places to live in the capital.

With over two hours before kickoff after obtaining my ticket and a programme, I was approached by a couple of fellas in MTU polo’s and recording equipment. They wanted a farang’s view of the game for their channel. Now, usually, there would be no problem with this. I’ve done it before at amateur games. However, the MTU v Port game is vastly different.

I about got away with saying I hoped football would be the winner in a 3-3 draw. I turned the tables by interviewing the two guys for A Thai Football Podcast, which I co-hosted. Pre-match beers with the ex-pats were enjoyed under the tollway with a great atmosphere building. 

The hosts with just one point from their first two games were being orchestrated by head coach Mario Gjurovski who has some incredible dress sense. For this encounter, he was in a bright orange suit with white trainers. By full-time he looked like a deflated space hopper.

Port took the lead when Hamilton, labelled “The Brazilian Andy Carroll” flicked on a header from a long free kick from keeper Somporn Yos. Fellow samba star Barros Tardeli flicked it past onrushing inexperienced goalie Soponwit Rakyart before putting the ball into the gaping net. Real route one stuff as I did well to remember to sit on my hands.

Home striker Stefan Šćepović tried to chip Somporn when in a decent position to the dismay of the crowd and teammate Willian Popp who had his head in his hands. Early days, but the Serbian looked a dud. MTU continued to look good going forward but vulnerable at the back as the pressure increased with Popp seeing a good effort turned around the post.

Just before the break, I think referee Sivakorn Pu-Udom got a call very wrong, or at least the man on the VAR desk didn’t help him. Tardeli was first to a ball a few yards outside the box with keeper Soponwit wiping him out midair when not even looking at the ball. 

The ref gave a free kick to MTU when the custodian could well have seen red for the challenge. Astonishingly, the VAR team were not interested. It baffled me as you will notice in the video report below which I compiled as the action commenced for A Thai Football Podcast.

At the break, I mentioned that there would be more goals and Port would catch them on the break. However, nobody was quite ready for the VAR team to call back play ten minutes after the restart. They asked the ref to check a challenge from Suphanan Bureerat into the back of Kannarin Thawornsak which saw him go down.

Hardly anyone had appealed, and the play had continued for a minute, but the official changed his decision and pointed to the spot. Coach Mario played Popp, for those of you old enough, as the Brazilian talisman scored easily from the resultant penalty.

Port teams of the past would have crumbled or pressed the self-ignite button, but this bunch was made of sterner stuff. Another Brazilian, Negueba, took control of midfield. He looked like a Rolls Royce of a player, calm and collected but with a physical presence. 

The boys from Khlong Toei regained the lead when Bordin Phala fed Hamilton on the edge of the box who fired across the keeper into the corner after an initial touch. After that, it could have been any score as Port tore the hosts asunder. 

The home fans didn’t get nasty and appreciated that their team were being undone, with purring and oo’s replacing any boos that are sometimes forthcoming in such situations.

Pathompol Charoenrattanapirom missed a couple of decent chances, while the home team left back Picha Autra in the second half after Mario changed formation didn’t know what day it was. 

The third goal came in stoppage time and was initially ruled out for offside, though I knew immediately it would be overruled and given. Negueba played a smart one-two with Bordin to beat the high line before rolling square for Teerasak Poeiphimai to score.

It was most enjoyable. A perfect day, rounded off by managing to get a taxi on an app straight away and head home for a lovely can of Thai-brewed hoppy ale before bed.