BEC-Tero Sasana

 

BEC-Tero Sasana FC 

Ground: Boonyachinda Stadium

Capacity: 3,550

Club Founded: 1979

Club Dissolved: 2017 - Merged with Police United to become Police Tero FC in 2018

BEC-Tero Sasana was one of Thailand's most successful football clubs for a while, before a change in ownership and losing their home ground led to their merger with Police United to become Police Tero FC.

BEC-Tero Sasana Club History

Early Years

After a few years of playing cup football, while known as Sasana Witthaya School, the club joined the Thai League in 1996. It was at that point that the club's founder, Mr Worawi Makudi, came to a deal with the Managing Director of BEC-TERO Entertainment Co Ltd, Mr Brian Marcar, with the club being renamed FC Tero Sasana. 

The following year, BEC-World Public Company Limited got involved with the club, with them changing their title once again to acknowledge the fact. The 'Fire Dragons' reached the FA Cup Final and entered the AFC (Asian Football Confederation) Champions League after finishing third in the league. 

Nong Chok Stadium

Champions of Thailand

Jason Withe, son of former Aston Villa and England striker Peter Withe, took over the coaching reins and led Tero Sasana to the TPL title in 2000. He moved aside, and Thai, Pichai Pituwong's side retained the title. The club finished TPL runners-up for the following two seasons and then appointed Englishman David Booth as coach.

He was followed by two Frenchmen, Regis Laguesse and Christophe Larrouilh. Around this time, the club played at their Nong Chok Stadium, 5km northwest of Suvarnabhumi Airport. Links with Arsenal FC were also developed, with their famous traditional shirts adopted for the first team.

Stadium Moves

In 2010, the club moved its home games to the Thephasadin Stadium in central Bangkok. At the same time, they appointed Peter Butler, the former West Ham and Southend United midfielder. 

A few runner-up places in the league were accumulated before Payong Khunnaen was made head coach. At the same time, Yorkshireman Andrew Ord was running the junior second string. Following a takeover of RBAC Mittraphap FC based at Rattana Bundit University, that club became known as RBAC BEC Tero Sasana or R-BEC for short. 

Thephasadin Stadium

This side fielded young up-and-coming players for the first team. Ord carried out a good job, while Khunnaen was judged to have underachieved, so they swapped positions for the start of the 2012 season. Sven-Göran Eriksson had a spell at Tero in an advisory position.

The club moved out of Thephasadin Stadium at the end of the 2013 season, taking up residence at 72nd Anniversary Stadium in Minburi in the east of Bangkok, as new coach Stephane Demol was appointed.

72nd Anniversary Stadium in Minburi

Decline in Fortunes

The 2015 season kicked off with the Portuguese, Manuel Cajuda, as head coach at Tero before Božidar Bandović tried his best to get something out of the team as the side struggled and eventually finished in the final relegation spot.

However, owing to the financial situation at Saraburi FC, who ultimately folded, Tero stayed up, Tero were reprieved. Uthai Boonmoh was given the job as head coach before being replaced by former Manchester United youth player Mike Mulvey. 

In 2017, the club were taken over by the Royal Thai Police, who merged them with their own club, Police United. The club name change was not recognised that season, but in 2018, the club changed their name to Police Tero Football Club.

My visit

At 72nd Anniversary Stadium, Minburi

BEC Tero Sasana 1 Bangkok Glass 1

Thai Premier League - Sunday 1st November 2015

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 4,066 🎟️ 100 THB (£2.40)

My holiday was coming to a close with just two days remaining. I’d had a brilliant time, but I was still eager for more. I had a great chance to tick off a difficult ground to get to, and I wasn’t going to miss the chance.

After a nice, relaxing morning, I waited to take a bus at a stop on Sukhumvit near Soi Cowboy, out to Fashion Island to meet my mate Steve. Many buses came past, but not the 501. In later years, I would also come to realise that it is an irregular service on a Sunday.

It was time to use my ingenuity and local knowledge. I walked the mile or so up Soi 23, through Prasanmit University, to the pier on the Saen Saep Boat Service up the main canal of the city. My boarding onto the boat got a few looks from the locals, but I was on. The conductor came around and gave me my 16 THB ticket.

Steve and I had previously used this service from Bangkapi to the Mahattai stop to go to a Thailand Under 21 match at Rajamangala Stadium. This ride was much longer and more enjoyable. It’s a relaxing, cheap way to beat the traffic while seeing some interesting sights.

Bangkapi Mall was as busy as ever. I walked through the shops and over the bridge in readiness to take a bus when Steve rang. He was already at Fashion, so I jumped in a cab for the rest of the way.

We enjoyed a coffee and a bit of shopping before we went to his house in Minburi to relax. Sean and Tracey arrived as they were staying with Steve and Fah before moving into their nearby new home. After a nap, it was time to head to the game.

We walked through the village to Sam Wa. My pals told me that there wasn’t much in the way of food at the stadium, so I topped up at the 7/11. The taxi driver knew the way to the 72nd Anniversary Stadium, which included going up the main Suwinthanong Road and doing a U-turn to reach Khum Klao Road. The driver dropped us at the back of the Main Stand.

From the outside, the white walls of the stand gave a very good first impression. The two club mascots were greeting fans. The junior Tero fans were giving the Glass rabbit some real stick, and he couldn’t get away. Stands were giving out gifts and advertising sponsors' products, and there was lots of food on offer. Much to the amusement of my friends! 

We wandered around the stand to the far side, giving me some great views of the two large stands through the fence. A free programme with the match ticket was a nice touch. More catering stands were located just before the entrances. 

The popular choice seemed to be the beer that came in a club bucket. I stuck to a Coke. The facilities inside were the norm for a Thai stadium. We found seats around two-thirds up and level with the penalty area to take in the view. The Main Stand opposite us had a roof like a racing car spoiler over the central section and red seats. 

Our large open bank was made up of the usual wide and steep steps, which were perfect for sitting on. The Glass visiting supporters were further down the touchline. Neither end had any spectator accommodation, with the pitch surrounded by a running track.

The teams came out to a good ovation. Before kick off, the Tero players came across to their massed support. I had been told in advance to wait for the club song. The fans sang a dirge that lasted far too long to the tune of ‘I am Sailing’. I suppose it could have been worse if Rod Stewart had turned up to sing it, but each to their own.

The home side was struggling towards the wrong end of the table and really needed something from the game. Glass were placed comfortably in fourth place, but without a chance of lifting the title. Tero’s fans certainly knew how to get behind their side, but they were silenced after just six minutes when BG’s Japanese forward Goshi Okubo finished well. 

Glass’s number 11, the Spaniard Toti, was running things with his skill and clever passing. Fodé Diakité was doing his best to stem the flow at the back for Tero. BEC were in the game but didn’t really look like scoring as the game reached the interval. Some young females, a few rows down from us, were giving the referee and opposing players plenty of abuse. 

Manuel Cajuda, the Tero manager, obviously had words with his team at the break. They came out brighter, and within five minutes, they were level, thanks to a strike from the edge of the box from Rangsan Viwatchaichock. The place went berserk. Glass looked dangerous on the break, but it was Tero who looked the most likely to grab a winner. 

They pressed on until the end, but it was not to come. A draw was probably the right result. Before we went, the home fans gave an encore to their team, who stood respectfully, and quite probably bored stiff. Both teams, as customary, applauded their opposing set of supporters.

It was now time to try to get back to Minburi. The massed crowds wandered round to the narrow, long street that led up to Khum Klao Road. A small van took fans back to Minburi, but it was already packed. There was no sign of any taxis.

We started to walk up the main road when an open-back van with a couple of Tero fans sitting in the back stopped for us. All four of us jumped in with the tipsy fans. We held on tight over the speed bumps. It was an interesting way to leave a match. We jumped out at the junction with Suwinthanong Road.

Before too long, we managed to hail a cab. The driver was a bit grumpy about taking four of us, but on he went. My pals dropped me off in Minburi, on the main Sihaburanukit Road. I was in two minds whether to go for a beer at my favourite local bar or head back into town. 

I thought about taking a bus straight to the end of the road where I was staying, but in the end I plumped for a cab ride straight down to Asoke to have a relaxing final drink of the evening and fish and chips on the way home. It seemed a perfect way to end a long day, and I needed some energy for the boy’s day out in town to follow on the final day of my holiday!

Chira Nakhon Stadium (Hat Yai)

Ground: Chira Nakhon Stadium, Hat Yai

Capacity: 25,000

Opened: 1944

Club: Previously Songkhla FC, Hatyai FC, Young Singh Hatyai United (Currently Vacant)

Proud History

The Chira Nakhon Stadium in Hat Yai, southern Thailand, has long served as the city’s main sporting venue. Before the arrival of structured national leagues around the turn of the millennium, it regularly hosted football and other events.

The first Hat Yai club to compete in a national competition was Hatyai FC, who entered the Regional League Division 2 Southern Region in 2010. The club was awarded a place as the competition was expanded, finishing twelfth in their debut season.

Hatyai FC

A strong improvement followed as the ‘Red Eagles’ climbed to fourth the next year, before slipping to eighth in 2012. After a brief hiatus, they returned in 2014 but struggled near the bottom of the table, eventually stepping away again.

Hatyai FC returned once more in 2016, finishing tenth, before improving to fifth in 2017 and third in 2018, with Akkarapol Meesawat leading the scoring during their spell at Muang Lak Southern Stadium.

 

By this stage, a second club had emerged in the city. Hatyai City won the Thailand Amateur League South in 2017 and joined the restructured Thai League system, initially sharing Chira Nakhon Stadium with their rivals.

They achieved mid-table finishes in their early seasons, with Teerawat Durnee and later Apdussalam Saman among the key scorers, before relocating to Southern Major City Stadium.

Young Singh Hatyai United FC

After the pandemic and further restructuring, the club rebranded as Young Singh Hatyai United, returning to Chira Nakhon Stadium for a period. Despite a strong 2021–22 season, off-field issues saw them fail licensing requirements and exit the league system.

As of 2026, there has been no successful revival of a Hat Yai-based club in to enter the Semi-Pro League or national structure.

My visit

Stadium Visit - Wednesday 1st January 2025

Opportunity Knocks

Many times, in the past, I have celebrated the start of the New Year by heading off to football to blow the cobwebs away and enjoy the cold air and a few beers. It would have been remiss of me not to fit in some football even while in a new city to me.

My wife and I were in Hat Yai with her cousin and family on the latest leg of our tour of Laos and Thailand. The countdown to midnight had been celebrated with Q as he showed me downtown and then on to a late bar with other friends and relatives.

A Long Walk Prevented

I was certainly in need of cobwebs being blown away and desperately wanted to find a store selling tea bags, having made the schoolboy error of forgetting to pack any at the start of our jaunt. I had mentioned that I would walk to the stadium to get my steps count in the following morning with some exercise. 

However, our hosts said it was a long way, and we could kill two birds with one stone. Well, three as it transpired, as we were also treated to a sightseeing tour of the city and that of Songkhla before dining at an amazing restaurant that had a museum.

The stadium was not unlike many other provincial venues around the country. Where the Chira Nakhon Stadium differed was that it had an uninterrupted horseshoe open bowl and then a main stand that stood alone. All the seats were blue and green.

Compared to many venues still hosting Thai League football, it was in marvellous condition and well-maintained. One wondered why a sustainable club in such a large cosmopolitan city failed to take off. 

Quite possibly it was because two clubs being badly run Hat Yai clubs in the past frightened off those thinking about setting up a new club. Songkhla FC were left as the province’s major outfit.

Once I had enjoyed my little dalliance, I was taken to a large store near the railway station to buy tea bags, some mature cheddar cheese, and crackers. While I love Thai food, I sometimes need some comfort eating and drinking. I was a happy camper back at base that night!

Songkhla

 

Songkhla FC

Ground: Tinsulanonda Stadium

Capacity: 30,000

Club Founded: 1999

League: Thai League 2 (current level)

Top-tier football and huge crowds were once the thing in Songkhla. Affected by alien ownership and having to start afresh, the club now look to reach its former heights.

A Potted History of Songkhla FC

Songkhla FC is a professional football club whose history can be traced back to 1999, when they played in the Thailand Provincial League, a competition for clubs outside Bangkok competing in the Thai Premier League.

Tinsulanonda Stadium was used for home matches until 2005. The club was suspended for failing to meet the regulations. They returned to the Provincial League 2 the following year, finishing runners-up in the higher division of the competition in 2007. 

Promotion to the Second Tier

Songkhla went up and finished second in 2008, with a season of two being spent playing at Chiranakhon Stadium in Hat Yai. The side consolidated their position as Witthawat Iamram.

Worawet Chanuthai and then Chayene Santos scored the goals as the club pushed for promotion while based at Na Thawi District Stadium. They returned to Tinsulanonda Stadium with huge crowds attending games. However, things were to go downhill.

Buriram Takeover

Buriram FC, formed by Karuna Chidchob, won a couple of promotions to reach the highest level of Thai football in 2011. The club was bought by the husband of the president, Newin Chidchob, who had already relocated PEA from Ayutthaya to become PEA Buriram, later Buriram United.

The rights of Buriram FC were sold to Songkhla FC, meaning there was a southern team at the top tier. It also meant two Buriram-controlled clubs. The club in the south was named Wuachon United FC in 2012. The original Songkhla FC was dissolved to join the new club, which was renamed Songkhla United.

The club had attracted a crowd of 30,102 for the top-flight clash with Muangthong United as Jadet Meelarp led the team from the bench. Meanwhile, goals from Kirati Keawsombat and then Manop Sornkaew kept Songkhla United safe.

End of the Era

Franz Schwarzwälder had a spell as coach before the team went down a level at the end of the 2014 season, despite the goals of Kayne Vincent. The side was managed throughout the season by Phayong Khunnaen and then Jason Withe. 

Somchai Makmool took over team affairs in 2015 as Rufino Sánchez top-scored. Willen Mota was a scoring sensation in 2016 for the side coached by Nopporn Eksatra. They reached the semifinals of the League Cup, going out on aggregate to Buriram United.

A New Start

The following season proved to be United’s last. Giorgi Tsimakuridze scored the goals as the team ended up in a relegation place for Watchara Tochanakan’s team while playing at Na Thawi District Stadium. Not that it mattered because the club failed the criteria for a license and was banned for two seasons.

Songkhla FC was born in 2018, starting initially in the Thailand Amateur League, playing at Prince of Songkhla University Stadium. In their second season, they finished as champions to win promotion to Thai League 3 South for the 2020-21 season.

Back at Tinsulanonda Stadium, the goals of Abdussalam Saman took the Samila Mermaids to the title under the stewardship of Akaporn Chalitaporn. Their playoff campaign ended in failure before Daiki Higuchi was given the role of head coach.

Natan Oliveira was next to put away the chances, before another regional was won in 2022-23 as Jardel topped the scoring charts for the side led by Sarawut Treephan. Again, Songkhla fell short in the playoffs.

The Thai League 3 South title was retained, this time under returning Japanese coach Higuchi, thanks in part to the efforts of Nigerian forward Ekene Victor Azike. Once again, the playoffs ended in disappointment.

The 2024-25 campaign saw Songkhla win promotion via the playoffs after defeating North Bangkok University, ending as national runners-up to Rasisalai United. Thitisak Karunkron was appointed as head coach towards the end of the following season, as the team consolidated.

My visit

Songkhla 1 Kasem Bundit University 0

Sunday 5th January 2025 

Thai League 3 Cup Round of 16 

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 345 🎟️ 120 THB (£2.75)

Tour Opportunity

The long tour I was on provided immense fun, travelling with my wife Taew, along with her cousin Q and his family. I’d visited football stadiums in cities that I had never visited before and may not have the opportunity to again. However, the announcement of this fixture made me extremely happy.

Not that I was the biggest fan of the Thai League 3 Cup, which drew some derisory attendances. I mean, who would expect a team from Bangkok to travel to Songkhla, a journey going on for fourteen hours for a third-tier cup game on a Sunday night? However, it seemed second nature to organise such games in Thailand.

Solo Day Out

Tinsulanonda Stadium was very high on my bucket list, so I agreed that I would be happy to do anything the rest of our group wanted if I was released for football on Sunday lunchtime. With everything in place, I was deposited at Central in Hat Yai to use the bank and grab some food before walking to the bus terminal.

The driver of our minivan would certainly not be getting a gig at the Comedy Store anytime soon. He displayed a Phatthalung FC scarf above him and drove like the clappers. I wasn’t too upset to get out and start my mini tour of Songkhla's old town, arriving far too early, if truth be told.

Discovering Songkhla's Old Town

I visited an art gallery and wandered through the many narrow lanes, seeing some lovely old architecture and street art with many others doing the same thing. If it was a coffee shop someone wanted, they were in the right city, with lots of them, many extremely trendy offering refreshments.

The old rice mill by the lake was being put forward as a World Heritage site, while a small bus took tourists around. I visited the Songkhla National Museum and the city wall, with every local I met being extremely friendly and helpful, something I’d experienced a few days earlier when we visited other local places.

Street Art in Songkhla

Pre-Match

I headed to the stadium to take photos with time to kill in case access was restricted when spectators arrived for the match. The smiling security guard waved me in as I went into the various stands, with the preparations beginning, and the home side arrived at the stadium by coach.

On my way, I'd walked along Si Suda Alley, which had several bars opening later, along with the Irish Buzz Stop Restaurant and Bar, which was already serving a couple of customers. I was to regret returning there and maybe have a meal. 

One Thai lady was doing her best to serve a large group of English fellas, who were around 30-years-old. While not causing any problem, they were loud, obviously enjoying themselves, ordering food and lots of drinks. It was clear that I would have waited a long time if I ordered a meal.

Nothing on the menu particularly jumped out at me, so I decided I’d leave them to their fun and have a drink somewhere a bit quieter. Because they considered that I had been unsociable, they called me names, which saddened me, but these things happen.

I mulled over the irony of having a trouble-free tour, including visiting places threatened by terrorism, but then having issues with fellow Englishmen. Instead, had a couple of cold beers watching the world go by and trying to cheer myself up at The Corner Bier before heading back to the stadium, again rather early.

Refreshments were confined to a stall once inside the stadium complex before entering the arena. There was no beer for sale. The souvenir stand consisted of a small rack and table, which also sold match tickets. It was all extremely low-key and a bit disappointing.

 

I chose a VIP seat for 120 Baht, again feeling disappointed when it turned out to be downstairs in the main stand rather than the upper tier. The stadium PA played very melodic local acoustic tunes as the teams warmed up before they returned for the match, which I enjoyed.

I thought that a 6 pm kick-off when Thailand were playing Vietnam in the second leg of the ASEAN Cup final on live TV at 8pm might have been a mistake. Surely, an earlier start at Songkhla would have attracted more fans who could then get home to watch the national side.

A Tight Encounter

The game was closely fought in the first half. Thomas Chinonso, the Nigerian Kasem Bundit striker, was pacy and caused the host defence some problems, breaking away and seeing his shot go narrowly over the bar, while Songkhla seemed more methodical but slower in their build-up.

I was surprised to see Jhonatan Bernardo in the lineup for the home side, who led their league table. I had watched him for Udon United at the start of the season, and I hadn't been impressed. My thoughts were confirmed after watching him again. 

Ridwan Ruangchuai was one of the midfielders who impressed me for Songkhla, but I thought that he was lucky to remain on the pitch after he committed a foul. He was the last man, bringing down Chinonso on the edge of the box when her was through.

Referee Pissanusak Sriyai decided the challenge only merited a yellow card. The striker received lengthy treatment in what would be the game-changing moment. Abdulhafis Nibu, Thiraphong Yangdi, and Anwa A-Leemama also impressed me for the home team. 

It was the latter who was denied just before the interval through a flying save from Chanon Aunjaidee in the student’s net. At the break, I decided to move seats so that I could get away easily from an exit to meet my family. The view was far better high up on the open side.

Chinonso wasn’t the same after his injury, hobbling off five minutes into the second half, while his assailant remained on the pitch, having done his job. Ten minutes later, the only goal of the game arrived from Anwa. It meant that it was pretty much game over. The hosts came close to doubling their lead a couple of times, with the threat of KBU extinguished.

My Roving Report for A Thai Football Podcast

Dinner by the Beach

Should the game have gone into extra time, it would have done so without me in attendance. As the final whistle sounded, I was on my way to dinner at Son Kaew Seafood Restaurant. A pleasant meal was enjoyed before Q gave us a nighttime tour of the old town.

We wanted to be back in Hat Yai for a night of sleep, as the following day would see Taew head off and make our way without our hosts, catching the bus to Krabi to enjoy many further adventures. It was only then that she revealed that her cousin’s wife was worried about me going to football alone. If only she knew.

My YouTube Channel contains numerous homemade Thai football videos, as well as a wide range of content covering all aspects of life in the Land of Smiles, including the one in which we visited the Southern Region.

Those of you who have enjoyed reading this article may wish to get hold of a copy of my book, which covers the adventure, along with dealing with the language barrier and understanding Thai culture. It is available in paperback and on Kindle.

Army United

 

Army United FC

Ground: Royal Thai Army Stadium

Capacity: 4,000

Club Founded: 1916

Club Dissolved: 2019

Army United FC had a proud history going back over a hundred years. Thai football had changed by 2019, as a change of Monarch led to the withdrawal of state backing of the services’ professional sides. The club called it a day in the professional ranks.

However, their second string at the time, Royal Thai Army FC, continued to operate.

A History of Army United FC

Army United FC, known as Royal Thai Army FC until December 2010, is a defunct professional football club that was based in the Din Daeng district of Bangkok. The club was originally formed in 1916, always maintaining a presence in Thai football.

Most of the club's players were members of the Army, playing at the impressive 20,000-capacity Thai Army Sports Stadium. The club folded at the end of the 2019 season because of changes to the constitution of such sporting entities and their funding.

Thai League Evolution

When the Thai football league system was modernised, the Army were a Premier League team. They were relegated in 1999, and they remained in the second-tier until 2004-05 when they returned to the top level as champions. 

They remained at that level before a further relegation was suffered three seasons later. This time, in 2010, the team went straight back up at the first attempt, helped by the goals of Tatree Sing-Ha. A year later, the club abandoned its policy of only fielding players from the army as the game in Thailand became increasingly professional.

The Army Welfare Development was formed, playing in the Khǒr Royal Cup around the same time, going on to be elected to the Regional League 2 in 2015 as Royal Thai Army FC to offer an outlet to purely army employees.

A Cup Final and British Coaches

'The Gentlemen Ranger' reached the FA Cup Final in 2012, losing to Buriram United under the stewardship of Paniphon Kerdyam. Former Scottish international defender Matt Elliott was in charge of team affairs between January and June 2014, before the ex-Tottenham Hotspur and England defender Gary Stevens took over.



Stevens lasted until May 2015 when he was replaced by Issaro Sritaro, who in turn was replaced by fellow Thai and former team boss Watcharakorn Antakhamphu. His tenure saw the team placed in the final relegation position with three rounds remaining. 

The death of King Bhumibol Adulyadej marked the end of the season, with league places at the time being counted as final. Army United were relegated.

Final Years

The 2017 campaign in the newly rebranded second-tier Thai League 2 (T2) saw another poor run of results, leading to a couple of changes of head coach. Daniel Blanco took over team affairs in July 2017, remaining in charge until the end of the season before departing for Krabi. 

Blanco would return a couple of years later, after former Portugal international midfielder Nascimento and Adul Luekijna had spells in charge of the team. The side finished fifth in the table as Tanakorn Dangthong led the scoring prior to the club folding.

My visit

Royal Thai Army 1 Bangkok United 1

Saturday 24th April 2010

Thailand Premier League 

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 c1,200 🎟️ 80 THB (£1.80)

This report was written at the time for the Scarborough Athletic FC fanzine, Abandon Chip.

An Unexpected Opportunity

Owing to the erupting Icelandic volcano, I was unfortunately detained in Bangkok for a week longer than scheduled. Not wanting to cry over spilt milk and ever looking to broaden my footballing education, I decided that Saturday, 24th April 2010, should be spent watching a local game.

I had planned to go to the game in the Premier Division between BEC Tero Sasana and top of the table Chonburi at the Thephasadin Stadium. Unfortunately, this venue was next to the old National Stadium in an area of the city disrupted by violent political clashes involving the military and the red shirt protestors. This led to the game being postponed.

A Confusing Journey 

Not to be deterred, I hit on a plan B. I took off after lunch with Steve and the other intrepid stranded traveller, Neil Eggar. I found a taxi and set off. My companions gave me the wind-up before I set off. My chosen game was to be Army v Bangkok United. They laughed as they said I’d probably picked a grudge match.

The driver wasn’t sure of my destination, so I gave him a station on the underground where I thought I could walk from. After a little conversation in very broken Thai and English, he revealed he was a reserve in the Army and showed me his ID card.

He reckoned he knew where the stadium was. I also knew vaguely, as I’d passed it before on my way to Harrow International School, where I help co-ordinate a cricket tournament each November.

My man was spot on, and he pulled into a service station just short of the stadium off the expressway a full hour before kick-off. I spotted a local in a Bangkok United shirt who, luckily, spoke English a little, and he directed me to the ground.

Arriving at the Stadium

Five minutes later saw myself entering the sports campus. The guard seemed very friendly, which was encouraging. I knew the stadium had a track around the pitch and one side had a roof from research, so I wandered round to that side. All around were basic cafes that also served beer.

Outside, both clubs had souvenir stalls, but I resisted. I decided to enter the ground, and I paid 80 baht (just short of £2) for a seat in the Main Stand. I had the bottle from my water removed by courteous guards. Upon entry, I found I was in the home fans section. A VIP area separated us from the away fans further up the touchline.

Family Atmosphere

There were school children on the far open side. It had been my intention to gain entry there at some point to take photos and to get on the live TV coverage while speaking to my mates on my mobile, while they looked on from home.

The fans were very enthusiastic, making loud noises with drums, hooters, and the plastic sticks which are found at games.

Their support never abated. The crowd was mainly aged between 14 and 30, and it has to be said that it was a pleasure to be in the company of the many females. They were certainly more aesthetic than my usual mates at a game.

A leader got the “Tra Kong Chak”, as the Army is known, and fans went with a megaphone, and nearly everyone joined in. If only I knew what they were chanting so I could have!

The Match

The game was very entertaining, assisted by a good ref who worked well with his assistants. The Army was at the bottom of the league, but they had the better of the play, eventually going ahead. I was really getting into it by now, and I was even more enthusiastic about finding beer for 30 baht (80p) at half-time.

Even better was when I could take one back upstairs for the second half. It was most welcome as it was thirsty work just watching. I noticed that the sub has to go to the fourth official and show his official TPL ID to sanction a change.

United grabbed an equaliser about ten minutes from time. The same tell-tale tale, which is found anywhere in the world, signs echoed through the stand: a second or so of silence followed by the roars of the away fans who numbered around 300. The total gate probably crept over 1,000.

I was sad for my newfound friends who had been most welcoming with their warm smiles. Full time saw something I am very much in approval of. The teams went across to their opposing supporters and bowed, known as wai-ing in Thailand.

It is a traditional greeting like shaking hands in Western culture. In return, the opposing fans applauded the players. Very civilised and far nicer than the abuse they would suffer elsewhere. It IS a game after all.

At full time, I went back to a bar that was showing the last half hour of the Man Utd v Tottenham match and got stuck in. Some locals tried to have a conversation, but expressions and body language spoke louder than words.

Souvenirs

I went back to the club shop and purchased an excellent quality Army team shirt for 450 baht, which was less than a tenner!. I finished off my beer and went for a taxi back to Steve’s house in Minburi.

The games kick off in Thailand at a perfect time. I was home twenty minutes into the 3pm kick-offs from back home, with each game being shown live on different channels.

If ever you are in the Land of Smiles, please make an effort and go and watch a local game. You will see 100% commitment, offering excellent value for money.

You will generally get a cheap meal and beer, and you can buy a team shirt for £10, which shows just how much all clubs in the Western world were ripping off genuine fans. You will also get a warm welcome, and your support will be appreciated.

A Further Visit

To read about my confusing later visit to watch Royal Thai Army FC in 2016, click here.