Join me as I experience matchday at both stadiums, meet passionate fans, and uncover the fiery history behind their intense rivalry, including the infamous Port vs Muangthong riots. You’ll see what makes each club unique, how to get tickets, and the easiest public transport routes to reach the grounds.
An Independent Exploration of the Grounds, Clubs, Culture and Stories of Thai Football
Saturday, 7 February 2026
Bangkok Football's Two Tribes
Join me as I experience matchday at both stadiums, meet passionate fans, and uncover the fiery history behind their intense rivalry, including the infamous Port vs Muangthong riots. You’ll see what makes each club unique, how to get tickets, and the easiest public transport routes to reach the grounds.
Tuesday, 21 January 2025
A Funny Kind of Love. Port FC and I
A Funny Kind of Love. Port FC and I
I first found Thai club shirts in 2007 at shops near the National Stadium, including Police United and Port FC. My first chance to go to a game arrived in 2010 after the cricket was over in Phuket. An Icelandic volcano put pay to any scheduled return to Blighty.
I went to Army United v Bangkok United and then Customs Suvarnabhumi v Thai Honda on consecutive days, thoroughly enjoying my introduction without feeling any passion towards any of the sides involved. Before I returned home, I caught the MRT to Khlong Toei and walked the ten minutes or so to the PAT Stadium, which was being upgraded.
| No More Madam Pang on the posters anymore |
A Love Affair is Born
Something about it hooked me immediately. I later found out Port already had a reputation, with their fans involved in fighting with those of rivals Muangthong United at Suphachalasai Stadium a few months previously. It was so severe that it saw the Kor Royal Cup being awarded to MTU. I would have to wait for my first game at the PAT.
I got my chance in April 2013, after attending a Regional League game between Globlex and Samut Sakon. I hailed a taxi down Ramkhamhaeng Road, with the driver eventually working out where I wanted to go.
It was a disappointing result, as Singhtarua, as Port were called at the time, lost 2-1 to BB-CU in the second tier. It was the first night under the new floodlights which attracted a good-sized crowd.
| A drink with a pal in Bangkok's best beer garden |
The ground had previously been somewhat of a shambles, with repeated floodlight failures, causing the abandonment of matches. Port had to move out, and the club had to reform.
It might have been because of what I’d gone through with Scarborough FC going bust and then helping with the new Scarborough Athletic, I felt quite at home. I did giggle when a fan in front of me had “Hooligan” emblazed on his shirt rather than a player’s name.
Early Impressions of Port FC
My regular twice-yearly trips sometimes came up lucky for Port fixtures. I enjoyed everything about the PAT experience and the occasional away games following the team. The feistiness and passion of the fans, while being virtually on top of the pitch, gave it something that stood out above other Thai venues. I even streamed some games while back in the UK.
| Never a shortage of food or drink at the PAT |
Things
changed, possibly forever at Port, when Nualphan Lamsam, otherwise known as
Madam Pang, took over the club. She is not camera-shy and
is not to everyone’s tastes. However, her finances made a huge difference.
The atmosphere at games seemed to change somewhat. Beer was no longer allowed in the stands. Her image was displayed on a match advertisement, while she sat on the bench next to the coaches. They were put in awkward positions. If they had told her not to, it would have led to a difficult situation and dismissal. That’s how Thailand works.
| Only the Lonely as the kick-off approaches |
Living in Thailand
By December 2021, I had moved to Thailand full-time. Tickets for the start of the second leg during Covid restrictions were purchased, with my mate Steve joining me. I went a lot that season as the results nosedived. The same as they had in many previous seasons and did in future seasons to come.
A Change of Perspective
Undoubtedly, my feelings towards going to football changed when I moved home. Results were far less important to me than before. I’d sometimes still get involved and have a shout at games, which I attended more than often as a neutral to visit new places. If a team like Port, whom I wanted to win, didn’t, I wasn’t that bothered once I walked outside the gates.
I think it was because I was living in a beautiful place and finding the woman of my dreams. We'd got married, while I was fully integrating into Thai life with her family and friends. I still meet up occasionally with fellow farangs, but generally, it's on a matchday somewhere. At Port, I have been lucky to meet some loyal Thai locals who are passionate in the extreme.
At first, I thought that I had confused them. My friends going to games with me, were treated superbly by them. They understand that football is my love rather than one club, even if they think I’m bonkers ever considering going to games of Port's rivals Muangthong in the home end.
Returning from an amazing three-week tour around Thailand with my good lady and her relatives, the fixtures fell kindly for me to go to my third home game of the 2024-25 season. Port had lost the previous Sunday away to Chiang Rai United, who, like visitors, Khon Kaen United were in the drop zone. Surely it would end in a home win.
I had taken the quick route from Minburi, consisting of Songthaew, a rickety old smoke-belching bus, to Bangkapi, a canal boat with similar attributes, and then the MRT underground. From there, it was a ten-minute walk to the stadium. While I have a relaxed attitude toward attending games, something struck me on this occasion.
It was similar to the times that I would walk from St John’s Wood tube to Lord’s or when I headed down North Marine Road for a day of cricket at Scarborough. The PAT Stadium approach gave me the same warm feeling inside.
It is a scruffy place — and a dream job for any health and safety official on secondment from the UK. It has no corporate facilities but has noise, passion and raucousness. To me, it's a perfect football stadium.
There was certainly no need to seek out a tout or buy online for this match, with the 6pm midweek slot being a contributory factor in a poor turnout. There is always somewhere to sit or wander around in the large open forecourt once through the main gates from the road.
A huge variety of street food is available in what I describe as Bangkok’s best beer garden, when there is a game on, and the atmosphere builds.
| Two gents who always improve my PAT experience |
Yao (apologies if misspelt), my Thai friend, who plays great tunes via Bluetooth speaker in the fans park outside, was unusually missing. I located his mates and had a couple of beers with them before heading inside to our usual vantage point.
I found my friend concentrating on the team doing their warmups along with his wife, Tuk. Yoa had trials with the club as a youngster, being brought up over the road from the stadium. He is well educated from time spent studying at a university in England, and now helps run the family business.
His knowledge, helpfulness, and generally great company were a joy to be around. The same applied to the rest of the gang, who positioned themselves in the corner behind the goal nearest the main stand.
Port games attract a wide range of fans from different backgrounds and nations. I find the company of the locals the most comfortable as I get the chance to practice speaking Thai and learn from them. And they have genuine passion. It’s their club, whereas I am an expat and a guest.
One of those who stands in the corner never misses a game, home or away. He turns up with large yellow and red cards, which he shows to the referees to offer them advice. I love it.
| Time for half-time beers |
Yoa had gone out and returned with some beers. When Madam Pang took on the role of President of the Thai FA, she handed control of the club to a relative. She was often still seen in her apartment behind where we stand and even seen at games in her Port colours. Some disapproved, saying that it wasn't a particularly good look for someone who should be maintaining neutrality.
Once again, beer was allowed back inside the stands. Muangthong fans were also allowed back in the stadium for the derby after a hiatus of nine years, while improvements were made to it.
This included an excellent playlist before games to enhance the build-up. It was back to more relaxed times. The wall of portraits of her on the rear wall of a stand leaves nobody in any doubt about whom to thank.
We went outside at the break, where Yoa’s mate had a stall. He served our beers and also sold some superb spicy sausage. The chat and fun were such that we missed the start of the second half, which included what would prove to be the winning goal for Khon Kaen United.
Another match. Another Disappointing Result
Port continued to huff and puff, but the lacklustre performance got no more than it deserved. The visitors did what should be expected of any team fighting relegation, as they fought and scrapped and used every trick in the book. If only the home side showed the same passion. The victors showed just how ordinary they were when, a few days later, they lost 9-0 away to Buriram United.
| It's A Family Affair at Port |
Enough was enough for the Port hierarchy. Head coach Rangsan Viwatchaichok had been talked out of resigning earlier in the season. This time, he was shown the door before the night was out. It was typical of Port and summed up their previous seasons. A good start with big signings before falling apart. It was a good job that there were so many poor teams in the division.
The Problems Facing a Football Club Owner
But here lies the issue. Port, BG Pathum United, and Bangkok United are relatively unchallenged by the chasing pack, yet they know they have no chance of chasing down Buriram United.
Sacking a coach may need to be done occasionally, not least to indicate to the fans that the owners understand their disappointment. But will it really make a huge difference? I think that the only way is to be honest with fans and create a project over several years. This would mean employing without interfering and being patient. Traits that Thai club owners lack.
| The corner in the B Zone where I watch from |
Drowning Our Sorrows
We were oblivious to the news of the sacking, as we got stuck into more Leo’s, enjoying the evening. There was another home game to come the following week against Ratchaburi. I was pretty sure that I’d be there, but it looked like Yoa was double-booked. I'd find a way to have fun regardless, though I'd miss him.
Tuk kindly took pity on me and dropped me at the end of my village, putting up with two heavily-imbibed blokes chatting away. She deserved the Player of the Match award, as I remembered how lucky I was to have made such good friends to enjoy my football with.
Saturday, 19 October 2024
TOT SC
On the Road
The season would prove to be the final one for the club as the team ended bottom of the table. TOT withdrew from the 2016 competition, which would have seen them compete at the second level, owing to financial troubles.
My visits
Stadium Visit - Wednesday 27th March 2013
I had a spare day on my cricket tour of Thailand, and with the majority of my teammates not arriving until the following day, I decided to get stuck into my favourite spare-time hobby of adventuring and visiting new stadiums.
I had already visited the home of Regional League side Kasetsart University when I flagged down a taxi. I showed him my print from Google Maps, which I had copied in preparation back in London, asking him to take me to Soi 5 Watthana by Lak Si.
Although I'd looked at the street view on Google, I really wasn't sure whether I'd get access inside the stadium. I wandered through the gates of TOT, smiling at the guards and keeping walking.
I wandered in to see the Summer Soccer School in full swing, with several parents occupying the stands. I got on with wandering around and taking photos. The Main Stand was three separate raised and covered seated structures occupying one touchline. Opposite was an open-seated section, which again ran the full length of the pitch.
The Lak Si end was unoccupied, with just a high fence separating the pitch from the covered car and bicycle park. The TOT End was extremely basic, with a small roof covering an area back from the pitch reserved for away supporters.
A few smiles seemed to defuse any suspicion, as it often does in the wonderful country that is Thailand. I went along my way and walked up to the main road before I attempted to hail a taxi to my next destination.
TOT SC 1 Port FC 2
The last of my pals had gone home after a successful Beer Battered Seadogs cricket and sightseeing holiday. I had taken them along with three ex-pat locals to Port’s home 2-0 defeat to Army United the previous Wednesday.
Port had been awful in all honesty, and this game was about the last chance to start their serious challenge to stay up. TOT were at the bottom of the table and getting close to the point of requiring a miracle. My taxi driver from Thupatemee Stadium spoke English and knew the way to the TOT Stadium, which was good news.
Travel Chaos
However, the main gate on Chang Watthana was closed to the TOT. I paid the driver up and set off with blistered feet back along and down Chang Watthana past the stadium. Vendors in the street were selling their wares to fans over the wall inside the ground.
While I loved most things Thai, it had to be said that their organisational skills were rock bottom. A major problem is that they take constructive advice as criticism, so things seldom change.
TOT had the nerve to charge a lot more for a ticket for away fans. It was the most expensive ticket I’d paid for at a standing ticket in Thailand at 150 THB. While that doesn’t sound much, it is to Thais, especially those who struggle in Khlong Toei. Unbelievably, they wanted 300 Baht to sit down the side!
This was a proper do-or-die relegation battle. My team had a great following and cared passionately. Full families, all in orange and blue, were cheering on Port, from babies to grandparents.
A Lively Encounter
Sadly, just like the previous match, there was far too much procrastination around the box without any end product. TOT were there for the taking, but Port lacked ambition and belief. At half-time, I was hugged by several Thai Port fans and even asked to be in a couple of photos.
An expat Englishman had a chat and made me very welcome. There was a small group of three or four others further along. The bloke and his wife by me at the front, had their junior daughter with them. I stepped aside so that she could stand on top of the fence and hang on to the netting.
Bas Savage
Nobody was massively surprised when TOT equalised with just eight minutes to go. It was Dompig who scored with a low shot. The home fans down the open side were going crazy. Port’s followers slowly found their voices again after a few seconds of stunned silence.
Suddenly, it dawned on the Port team and manager Masahiro Wada that a draw was no good. Fortunately, the home side could sense the chance of a winner and were also going for it. The play was end-to-end and not of great quality, but extremely entertaining.
After what seemed like a long delay as home players kept time-wasting and encroaching into the area, David Rochela stepped up and smashed the ball into the bottom corner of the net as bedlam broke out all around. It doesn’t matter where you go in the world, or what standard; there’s nothing like a last-minute winner away from home.
A young lady had been taking photos just in front of the away end as well as a video when the winner went in. She tried to grab my attention for a photo amongst the celebrating fans at full-time. I eventually found the pictures online six weeks later at the Klongtoey Army Facebook page.
A tired and emotional Steve was waiting for me at the Queen Victoria, where a newly arrived Chris Lamb and his pal Timmy soon turned up. We went around to watch the Rugby World Cup Final and other assorted entertainment while catching up on Yarrambat and personal matters.
Tuesday, 15 October 2024
PT Prachuap
PT Prachuap FC is a professional football club from the Thai seaside city of Prachuap Khiri Khan, whose province is in the northern part of the Malay Peninsula on the west of the Gulf of Thailand, where the club was formed in 2009.
Initially called Prachuap Khiri Khan FC, the side finished tenth in the 2009 season, competing in the third-tier Regional League Division 2 Central & Eastern Region and playing at Sam Ao Stadium.
The club was moved to play in the Southern Region, but pulled out before a ball was kicked on the grounds of safety. Allocated a place back in their old section for 2011, the truncated Prachuap FC ended third from the bottom of the table.
The following season saw large on-field improvements, which continued with a second place in 2013 under the leadership of ambitious and innovative chairman Mr Songkiat Lim-aroonrak. However, the ’Killer Wasps' fell short in the playoff rounds.
The 2014 season saw Prachuap finish top of the table in the third-level Division 2 South. On this occasion, promotion was sealed as the side ended top of Group A in the Champions League playoff rounds.
Eighth place was a decent return for their first season at a higher status, with Nascimento Dos Santos Neto providing the goals. Macedonian Hristijan Kirovski led the charts in the following campaign, with Willen Mota the crowd's hero in 2017.
The team ended that season in third place to win promotion to the Thai League 1. The club entered a sponsorship deal with a major fuel company to become PT Prachuap for the 2018 season, in which Thawatchai Damrong-Ongtrakul saw his outfit end in an impressive sixth position.
It was another Brazilian, Jonatan Ferreira Reis, who put away the goals before fellow countryman Caion took over the mantle in 2019. This was a groundbreaking season for the club, which lifted its first major honour.
In a dramatic League Cup final at Muang Thong, Prachupa defeated Buriram United 8-7 on penalties after the game ended 1-1 after extra time, after Maurinho had put his side ahead. The 2020-21 season saw the Thai League adopt the European calendar, during a disjointed time owing to the coronavirus pandemic.
Prachuap ended in midtable, as they did in 2021-22, with Willen Mota continuing to enjoy his time up front for the club. He scored the goal that took his team to another League Cup final. However, this time Buriram United gained revenge with a 4-0 win at BG Stadium after Issara Sritaro had taken over the reins as head coach.
Teerasak Po-on was in charge in the summer of 2022, before being replaced by Dusit Chalermsan just before the midseason break. Samuel Rosa became the latest Brazilian to thrill the seaside crowds as the side finished eleventh. This was backed up by tenth place in 2023-24.
New head coach Thawatchai Damrong-Ongtrakul was replaced by Božidar Bandović a few months later, before the return of coach Dusit in January 2024. Sasom Pobprasert was given the job at the start of the 2024-25 season as the club invested in strengthening its squad. The goals of Chrigor led the side to seventh place.
PT Prachuap FC will play in the Thai League 1 in the 2025-26 season.
My visit
PT Prachuap 1 Port FC 1 (Saturday 28th January 2023) Thai League 1 (att: 2,023)
This was a trip that I was really looking forward to, in the company of my lovely girlfriend Taew. We set off nice and early on Saturday morning from our condo in the Bangkok suburbs, with me doing my best to give the correct directions to my partner.
As we were making good time, she suggested we stop off at Don Hoi Lot for food. Well, I’m game for any new place, and what a place she had found. It was a small tourist village south of Samut Songkhra,m right on the coast.
After a stretch and some photo opportunities, we sat down to a lavish seafood lunch. Both very full, our journey continued past signs for Petchaburi and Hua Hin before we finally turned off near 4pm to head into the small city of Prachuap Khiri Khan.
Now, I’m a good walker, but my other half is not so much so. Therefore, it was a shock when we spotted a temple on a mountain, which she said we would park up and walk to the top. It was extremely steep and tiring, but what a view.
The coastline with its features had immediately won me over, and so did the immediately obvious friendliness of the locals. We found our hotel, Prachuap Beach, which had a fantastic room for the 750 Baht that I shelled out. After a shower, we went for a wander.
I enjoyed sitting at the open-fronted Timber Hut Café with a cold beer, watching the waves crash against the sea wall across the road, even if it was turning a bit chilly, or at least it felt that way. It sounds silly talking about cold Thai weather when games were being called off back in England.
It was soon time for me to try to work out how to get to the game. The helpful receptionist arranged a taxi for me, which was not what I expected. A happy old chap turned up on his motorcycle with a box attached to it with two planks on it. A sidecar, but not as I knew it.
Taew waved me off before she decided to use the room to its max. It was just 50 Baht to the Sam Ao Stadium. Some very friendly expats told me where I could buy my ticket for the away fans section, where a table had been set up outside, giving away free food to those cheering for Port. Unbelievable.
The beer stalls were around the far side, and again, all I saw were happy and nice people. I grabbed one to take upstairs to our seats, which didn’t offer much in the way of a view or legroom, way back behind the curve and goal.
Not long into the game, I got chatting to another Port expat. Jamie and his wife, Mam, live in Cha Am just up the coast. They had travelled down by train for their first game in three years, and it turned out that they were staying in accommodation near us.
There were several others from the expat Port support, in a turnout of around 150. Most of the home fans, and particularly the more vocal element, were down the far side, with the main stand a long way from the pitch being sparsely populated.
The game was extremely open and quick in the early encounters, and I thought we could be in for a high-scoring encounter. As bookies around the UK will be quick to tell you, once again, I called it wrong.
In the first couple of minutes, a shot from well outside the box from Port’s Sergio Suárez brought keeper Chatchai Bootprom into action with a flying save. Visiting skipper Tanaboon Kesarat looked lively alongside William Weidersjö in midfield as their side made a good start.
The home side were not slow in putting in challenges which fired up away coach Matt Holland and tested referee Mongkolchai Pechsri. The nearest Prachuap came in the first half was when Port tried to be too cute, playing their way out of defence. Chakkit Laptrakul pounced but dragged his shot wide.
At the break, I wandered back around and grabbed another Leo for the second half. Plenty of tailgate parties were in evidence among home and away fans throughout my procession. Not all the stadiums are top-class in Thailand, but the experience of a matchday is fantastic.
Not all the Port fans were back in position and missed the highlight of the game, at least as away fans. A cross to the far side of the box found Bordin Phala, who teed up Kevin Deeromram, whose delicious bending cross was headed down into the net by Suphanan Bureerat in front of our section.
I was most happy, as I honestly could not see Prachuap scoring. Port were playing very well. Inevitably enough, the hosts decided to do something about the goal, and it was not long before the away keeper, Somporn Yos, was forced to pull off a superb point-blank save from a header from Brazilian forward Samuel Rosa.
He was then called into action to push away a shot through a crowded area from Laptrakul. The same two players again saw action, with the goalie stopping an effort on target as the visitors were forced further back by the minute when they could have offered more offensively.
A clever one-two inside the Port box saw Yos smother a cross with his legs that was destined to be tapped in behind him, with Thanaset Sujarit, the frustrated player, seeing his hard work being denied.
Port were using one or two naughty tactics of their own, which saw them pick up four yellow cards after the interval. The board indicated that there would be five minutes of additional time, but we still felt confident.
Kesarat made a couple of poor efforts to clear, which saw the ball land at the feet of sub, Nattawut Suksum, who screwed wide. With a minute left, a deep corner found the head of Samuel, who headed down through a crowd to grab a last-gasp equaliser.
No, I was not amused. Still, it’s only a game, as the saying goes. We hung around to say thanks to the players who had put in a shift. 1-1 was the right score in the end, but Port should have won it if the right tactics had been employed. In my opinion, anyway.
On the final whistle, Mam had phoned the same guy who had taken them in his sidecar to the game, and he arranged for a friend to pick us up from outside the main gate. I telephoned Taew, who was waiting by our hotel when we returned, ready to go for food and drinks.
Several fans had used the Blue Monkey bar adjacent to where we stayed before the match and were gradually returning. The pair of us headed to the night market set up in front of the Muang Prachuap Khiri Khan District Office.
I was ready for some food, having tried just a couple if sticks of tasty small meatballs in sauce at the stadium since lunchtime. My trusted partner chose the food, which was tasty and cheap, before we returned to the bar for a couple of drinks and a chat.
In no time at all, the chill and a long day decreed that we were ready to crash out. However, that meant that we were up at 7am the following morning to be greeted with the dramatic view up the coast as we enjoyed coffee and pastries in our room.
Taew certainly isn’t one to hang around, perfectly suiting my nature, so we were soon heading north, ready for a stop at Sakhon Nakho,n where we bought a ton of seafood to take home to enjoy on Sunday evening.
The market is partly built right alongside the railway tracks around Maha Chai station. It is a smaller version of the experience I thoroughly enjoyed a few miles away at Mae Klong in Samut Songkhram on my visit some years previously.
The excitement was far from over, as we headed to Fashion Island, not too far from base, after we somehow managed the quickest route. I was in top form, despite doubts from my pilot. We met my lady’s son, who was advising me on a new phone.
Back at home, I then spent what seemed like an eternity transferring data before he arrived to share the lovely food and then carried out a full transfer in just over half an hour. Well, he does work in IT, and I'd got my wires crossed, not realising he was on his way.
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