Udon Thani

Udon Thani FC was a professional football club that was formed in 1999 by the inaugural Chairman, Mr.Sathaporn Kotabut, in the northeastern Thailand city of the same name. The club was dissolved at the end of the 2022-23 owing to financial issues.

The club entered into the Thailand Provincial League; which was the third tier of Thai football at the time, for the 1999-00 season finishing in fourth place. The club continued competing in the same competition for a further three campaigns.

The best finish came in 2001 as ‘The Orange Giants’ finished fourth once again. Udon Thani withdrew from competitive football between 2005 and 2008 before re-emerging as a club playing in the Regional League Division 2 North Eastern Region.

Home matches were played at the Institute of Physical Education Udon Thani Stadium, as the team weighed in with a third-place finish in 2009 with coach Phithaya Santawong at the helm. Two mid-table finishes followed as several coaches had spells in charge of the team.

Another third spot arrived in 2012 with Ousmanou Mohamadou leading the scoring under the stewardship of the Korean Park No Bong before the returning Santawong took control once again to take control for the 2013 campaign.

Two consecutive runners-up berths followed in 2013 and 2014 as Oyewole Yemi Joseph and then Tomiwa Bolarinwa banged in the goals under coaches Santawong, Voottivat Daengsamerkiat and  Somkait Fongpach.

Promphong Kransumrong scored on an incredible 32 occasions in 2015 as Udon Thani finished in third place as Worradet Phuprapri, Hannarong Chunhakunakorn and Somkait Fongpach were employed throughout the season by a frustrated owner.

The club moved to the Udon Thani Rajabhat University Stadium for the 2016 campaign, and the change worked, as Udon Thani romped to the league title as striker Natthaphat Somsri led the way under the tutelage of coach Choketawee Promrut.

This led to the team qualifying for the knockout Champions League playoffs to strive for promotion. Nara United were defeated before Udon Thani went out to local rivals Nongbua Pitchaya on away goals.

The 2017 season saw the league system reorganised in Thailand, with Udon Thani being placed in the Thai League 3 Upper Region. A runners-up place under Paniphon Kerdyam, and fired by the goals of Valci Júnior, led to a place in the playoffs.

Trang were defeated on away goals to send the club up to the second tier Thai League 2. The club returned to the Institute of Physical Education Udon Thani Stadium under the team management of Uthai Boonmoh.

The Thai coach was replaced by Darren Read in April 2018 who lasted just a couple of months before Watcharapong Klahan took over. The team ended in a disappointing seventh place as Paniphon Kerdyam was appointed head coach ahead of the 2019 season.

The club moved into the newly built SAT Stadium, a few miles northwest of the city in Sam Phrao, for the new campaign. Bruno Correa led the scoring for the Orange Giants as they ended in seventh place before the Thai League reverted to the European calendar for the 2020-21 season.

Jakarat Tonhongsa had been put in charge of the team during the long break but departed to Muangthong United and was replaced by Jetsada Jitsawad as the season got underway. In a season of struggle, João Paulo Sales top-scored.

Another Brazilian, Thales Lima starred in 2021-22 as the side improved their league standing. The club went through an alarming number of coaches, as Sirisak Yodyardthai, Fernando Sales, Daniel Blanco, Jörg Steinebrunner and Reuther Moreira all had spells in charge of the team before the appointment of Chalermwoot Sa-ngapol.

New ownership caused much upheaval, especially when it was revealed that the money that was claimed to be in place wasn’t there. The club moved back to their previous home in the city for the 2022-23 season. Paniphon Kerdyam, Mavi Lopes, and Akbar Nawas, in a couple of spells, led the team that finished bottom of the Thai League 2 despite the goals of Greg Houla.

Udon Thai FC was dissolved after the end of the season and didn’t take its place in Thai League 3.

My visits

Udon Thani 1 Army United 1 (Sunday 8^th April 2018) Thai League 2 (att: 4,534)

There is nothing I enjoy more in life than visiting new places. The amazing Chiang Mai International Cricket Sixes had drawn to an end the previous evening, and I was ready to relax and enjoy myself without any alarm calls for the final few days of my trip.

My good pal Steve Walker was to join me on another adventure and I’d done all the bookings in eager anticipation a few weeks previously. Just taking the journey down to Udon Thani proved to be an interesting experience.

My mate turned up at my hotel the worse for wear, after enjoying a few too many bars in great company. We boarded the small plane with just two seats on each side of the aisle for the flight southeast. He was still merry and wouldn’t shut up for an hour's flight. We were about the only Westerners onboard.

We quickly got a cab into town where we found our excellent UD Residence Hotel and grabbed lunch at the impressive Good Corner and a quick recce of the area before a siesta. We reconvened and plumped for the brilliant Restaurant Da Sofia.

The pizza was as good as I could remember tasting and the service first first-class. We headed to the Day & Night bar area where the locals were most helpful. After a couple of beers at incredibly agreeable prices, it was time to hail a tuk-tuk to the match.

A vehicle was commandeered for us, presumably with the driver knowing where he was going. If only things were so simple in Thailand! We were about to have a tour, and my patience was severely tested.

I was pretty sure that we were heading in the wrong direction, but I left it to our pilot. This was not one of my greatest ever decisions. Within fifteen minutes, we’d fought through the heavy traffic to arrive at a municipal facility with a stand, but definitely no professional football.

We headed down a side road where the driver got out and spoke to some locals, two of whom wore Udon Thani replica shirts. Surely they would know? All was looking well as we joined the cross-city traffic, some more were decked out in club colours.

All of a sudden, for reasons best known to himself, our driver took a left turn. He looked back at us with pride, only to be met resounding “mai” from the pair of us. He’d taken us to the former home at Udon Thani Rajabhat University.

Off we went again. He obviously had two options on his list. Time was getting on, so I was more than a little relieved to see the shining floodlights of the correct stadium from the main Thanon Pracha Raksa.

We did a left down Ban Lueam to the entrance of the Institute of Physical Education. We jumped out and gave our new close smiling friend a substantial tip on top of the arranged fare. We must have been in a good mood!

I’d contacted some Western fans of the club through their Facebook page and was aware that the club got good attendances. Indeed, the stadium had been extended in recent weeks. Rather than going in the best seats, we decided to go with the masses on the far side.

On the way around, we saw fans playing instruments and generally getting into a party atmosphere. Thais really did make an effort around the match. The ever-amiable Steve ended up playing the tambourine with one group!

To see the atmosphere outside and during the game, click here for a homemade video.

Our tickets cost 80 Baht (around £1.70) which allowed us access to any of the three sides opposite the main area. Water costs just a few further Baht. It was encouraging to see so many youngsters in attendance. The fair pricing made it affordable.

Initially, we tried to get in the main area down the side, but it was absolutely mobbed from around thirty minutes before kick-off. We ended up in one of the new sections near the corner flag, with a tree of all things restricting the view slightly.

The Main Stand had covered seating on the far side. Opposite were open deep steps to allow sitting, with extensions on either side. The ends of the running track had open deep steps, with the visiting fans being plonked in a small section in the corner.

The Army fans were well-regimented. It was as though they were still on duty. They remained silent but then chanted in unison, whereas the home support had several little groups around the arena all playing their own instruments and singing their own songs.

The match got underway, and soon became clear that it wasn’t going to be a classic. Army’s tactics were extremely obvious. They’d come north to frustrate the hosts and to try and grab a winning goal. Udon Thani did not look to have many ideas how to counteract this tactic.

The hosts Milan Bubalo looked most disappointing. We quickly came to the conclusion that Udon were not playing with enough width to try and get around the disciplined United defence. Indeed, it could have been the Bangkok side who took the lead.

On ten minutes, Brazilian midfielder Diego Lima saw a header go just over the bar. Udon were frustrated when they thought they’d sprung the offside trap. We thought it a poor decision at the time, and later highlights confirmed it.

Army came close again halfway through the opening period, as Brazilian forward Erivelto saw his effort go narrowly wide. The half closed with a challenge that bordered on an assault on Army’s Brazilian skipper Rodrigo Frauches. The referee either didn’t see it or made a shocking decision not to take action.

At the interval, we decided to move places and sit behind the goal that Udon were hoping to attack. The view wasn’t the best, but we were around a decent atmosphere as fan groups on either side of us tried to raise their side.

The first half had been frankly awful, and we were hoping for some quality after the restart. It was Army who took the lead three minutes after the break. A free kick went wide and found Frauches who lobbed it back into the box where Erivelto headed home.

Udon keeper Witsanusak Kaewruang went down as though shot by a sniper when he had made a real mess of things from the cross. He hadn’t impressed us too much, and his actions smacked of trying to restore his pride.

We thought that would have been a call for Army to defend even more resolutely, but Udon levelled things up ten minutes later. A very good inswinging cross from Kasidech Wettayawong found the head of Danusorn Wijitpanya to glance home.

Army responded with a fine move and low cross from Tossakorn Boonpeng for Suradet Thongchai to stoop and head goalwards, only to be denied by Kaewruang who made a decent stop to redeem himself.

Udon returned fire when a fine jinking run put in a forward who struck the post; alas, from an offside position. A long-range effort from an Army player caused confusion for Kaewruang after it deflected off one of his defenders.

The match was into the fourth minute of stoppage time when United’s Kanok Kohyangphueak was shown a harsh red card for a robust challenge. His side had one last opportunity to snatch all three points when Erivelto’s misguided free header nearly set up Diego Lima.

We headed back to the main road and then started walking down Thanon Pracha Raksa towards the city centre when we flagged down a tuk-tuk heading in the other direction. We were soon dropped at Central Plaza and headed back to Day & Night.

We went on to have a fantastic evening in a vibrant and most agreeable area for nightlife. It certainly received the thumbs up when we gathered our thoughts the following morning.

Udon Thani 2 Customs United 2 (Sunday 7^th April 2019) Thai League 2 (att: 2,985)

It was back down to Udon from Chiang Mai after a most enjoyable Sixes competition. I was in absolute top form and Steve was in far better nick on arrival than the previous year. Our flight arrived at 3pm leaving not much time before kick-off.

We checked into our rooms at @Home at Udon before heading to the bus station to sort out our arrangements for Tuesday morning when he headed to Buriram. This was not as straightforward as it sounds, as there was no direct service.

A meal was taken at The Good Corner as we digested the news and tried to think of alternative options. Never mind. There always had to be a way to get there. I had other priorities, like how we would get to the newly built SAT Stadium and back.

After depositing our dirty laundry, we went to the Central Plaza to get a taxi. We managed to sort a fare for the 15km journey. Steve tried to negotiate it in such a way that our driver would receive more for a return journey than the way out if he picked us up.

He chatted away on his phone, but in the end, he decided that he couldn’t take us back. We were pushing it for the start. The national anthem was audible as we were dropped in the car park. After purchasing our 80 Baht (£2) tickets, we went upstairs to the Main Stand.

The SAT Stadium was certainly an improvement from the Institute of Physical Education Udon Thani Stadium, but surely the location would prove problematic to attract crowds? I guess that nearly every Thai has access to a car or motorbike/scooter?

Our stand had a roof and was raised well above pitch level, running most of the full length of the touchline. The centre section was for VIP’s. Opposite was a similar-sized structure, only open to the elements.

A running track surrounded the pristine playing surface, with no spectator accommodation around either of the curves around the goals. If ever required, there was lots of room for expansion beyond the current perimeters.

The match was not dissimilar to Udon’s game with Army United on our previous visit. The home side was playing too narrow and struggling to forge out any opportunities of note. Their best chances were to get wide, but they didn’t do it nearly often enough.

The hosts certainly had more of the pressure and played some good stuff without any real end product against their bottom-of-the-table opposition. The fans on the far side were doing their best to raise their side; albeit in clusters of different supporter groups.

Warut Supphaso wasted a decent chance when he fired across goal when played in before skipper Prakit Deeprom fired a speculative shot over the bar. As often happens, a side is punished for not taking advantage of its dominance.

In first-half stoppage time, Customs were awarded a free kick wide on the left which Anusorn Sricaloung planted past home keeper Kittipun Sansuk, who made a shocking misjudgement to let the curling effort over his head and in to make it 1-0 at the break.

We decided to have a walk at the interval and watch the second half from the far side. Who knows, we may have bumped into some other Farang fans who could offer us a ride back, or at least offer us advice. The stadium certainly wasn’t on a regular bus route!

We surveyed the numerous catering outlets. Fried maggots? No thanks! In the end, we grabbed a bottle of water each for 20 Baht and a bowl of Dim Sum, which was outstanding value with seven pieces in sauce costing just 20 Baht.

The middle sections were pretty busy, so we took up a spot near the end of the open stand, just above one of the splinter fan groups, with plenty of locals smiling and intrigued at the presence of two westerners.

Udon continued to press but were undone on the break on fifty minutes as the Cameroon striker Isaac Mbengan capitalised on some reluctant defending to double Custom’s lead with a rasping left-foot drive. The away following of around a hundred fans opposite were ecstatic.

Big Brazilian forward Bruno Correa had come on for Udon just before halftime and began to use his physical presence and nous to good effect. His flicked header helped his side back into the game just before the hour mark as Jetsada Badcharee scored at the back post.

Udon poured forward, looking to get at least a point out of the game. Attacks were thwarted, and players on both sides went down too easily trying to fool the referee. The board went up for additional time. Steve and I were on the verge of leaving to look for a taxi.

Then the ref was indeed fooled; at least it looked like it from our position. He pointed to the penalty spot for the softest of handball decisions against a dejected Chakrit Rawanprakone. Correa made no mistake with his kick to make it 2-2.

There was no sign of any taxis anywhere around the perimeter as we made our way out. The security at the stadium entrance onto the main 2410 road couldn’t help. We started to walk along the road, praying to see a taxi. Our hopes were not high.

Then, out of nowhere, we received a huge boost. A large car pulled up. A gent in a Udon shirt asked where we were going? His English was certainly better than our Thai as he told us to get in. Suk was to become the hero of the hour.

He took us all the way back to the Central Plaza, and we had a lovely chat. He was a lecturer at one of the local colleges who loved English football, with Liverpool being his team. He went out of his way, having rung his wife to tell her he’d be late home.

Suk couldn’t understand why we were at the game. He drove along in a state of disbelief as I explained my hobby and the other Thai clubs that I’d visited for matches. He was over the moon that we’d checked out his club. It seemed like a form of honour.

He refused to take anything in return for his astonishing kindness. It epitomised why I love Thailand and its people so much. We’d experienced a lift from a Muang Thong in Bangkok several years previously, but this time it really was appreciated.

Steve and I went on our way, enjoying yet another top night in Udon and its various establishments. The following day, we sourced out the train option to Buriram as well as sampling some fantastic food in the Sports Bar on Soi Samphan.

Udon hadn’t let us down. In fact, it could have done with being a little less inviting when I got the taste on the Monday evening, but that’s another story.

Customs United

 

Customs United FC is a professional football club in Thailand, who are based at Lad Krabang 54 Stadium in the suburb of Lad Kra Bang in Bangkok. 

The club started off life as Customs Department FC in 1954. Their greatest achievement came after the restructuring of the game in Thailand when they won promotion to the Premier League in 2007 by lifting the Division 1 League title.

Unfortunately, their stay was a short one and the side was relegated after just one season. In 2010 the Customs Department changed their name to Suvarnabhumi Customs FC and moved to their new home at Lad Krabang after previously playing at Kaseem Bundit University.

At the start of the 2011 season the club changed their name to Samut Prakan Customs United F.C. At the end of the season they changed again to Customs United FC, as another club in the same division became known as Samut Prakan United FC. 

The season ended in relegation down to the third-tier Regional League under coach Kritsada Piandit. He was replaced by Jakree Nongnoi as the club gradually improved their on the pitch performances.

A creditable fourth place was achieved in 2013 before United won the Thai Division 2 Bangkok Region title in 2015, to qualify for the Champions League in the quest for promotion. A fourth-place finish in Group B resigned the club to another season in the lowest tier.

The division was renamed the Bangkok & Eastern Region for 2016, with Customs finishing as runners-up and entering the knock-out Champions League. Any hopes of promotion were diminished by Rajpracha after a penalty shootout.

Thai football was restructured for the 2017 season, with an extra tier being added. Customs added MOF to their title and were placed in Thai League 3 Lower Region. The team finished in ninth place with Efe Odobe ending as leading scorer.

Customs won their divisional title in 2018 thanks to the goals of Uroš Stojanov to win promotion to the second tier under head coach Chayaphol Kotchasarn. Australian Kayne Vincent topped the scoring charts in the 2019 campaign as the side consolidated in fifteenth position.

The MOF suffix was dropped from the club title for the 2020-21 season, one in which Brazilian forward Danilo put in the goals. United changed managers in November 2020 as Worrawoot Srimaka was replaced by Santi Songte with the team ending in the thirteenth spot.

Damian Bellón had a spell as head coach prior to the arrival of Warit Boonsripitayaon whose newly retitled Customs Ladkrabang United put a run together in the closing stages of 2021-22 to stave off the fear of relegation.

A link-up with Port FC was formulated in readiness for the 2022-23 season with players moving across town as well as the former coach at the PAT Stadium, Arnon Bundasa. It proved to be a successful, if controversial, season.

Customs reached the promotion play-off final after dispatching Chiang Mai United, but before the game they raised the ire in many followers of the game by announcing that they had not bothered to apply for the Thai League 1 license, meaning opponents Uthai Thani would go up whatever the result.

Port withdrew their support for Customs meaning that they were independent for the 2023-24 campaign. It was a season that ended in relegation under head coach Jaropung Sangpong who was replaced by Prasonchoke Chokemor and then Arnon Bandasak. New investment via  Toko, a Thai engineering company.

The club was placed in Thai 3 East under head coach Keita Goto.

Customs United FC will play in Thai League 3 East in the 2024-25 season.

My visits

Suvarnabhumi Customs 0 Thai Honda 1 (Sunday 25th April 2010) Thailand League Division One (att: approx 650)

I had a prolonged stay in Thailand after I had been visiting in March and April 2010 for cricket tournaments owing to the erupting Icelandic volcano delaying my flight back to the UK. The previous day I had been to the Premier League game between Army and Bangkok United. 

I thoroughly enjoyed the experience and true to my nature I wanted to explore more. Being the curious type, I wanted to see what football was like in Division One; the second tier in the national league system. After studying the website, I chose the match between Suvarnabhumi Customs and Thai Honda on Sunday 25th April 2010.

My good pal and temporary landlord once again, Steve couldn’t be tempted along. At least I had the support of his girlfriend Ea, who wrote down the stadium address in Thai for my taxi driver. After a lovely traditional lunch in the very western Fashion Island Shopping Mall, I eventually found a driver who knew the address and was keen to take me.

We went through the thriving suburb of Lat Kra Bang and found the correct soi (road) off the main drag. I didn’t spot much of note until a newish ground appeared on the left next to a wat (temple). The car park was pretty full, and the crowd looked large. I went to the ticket hut, where I paid 50 baht; just over £1 at the time and received smiles all round upon admission. 

References were made to the new Army FC shirt I was wearing. I quickly worked out that there were no refreshments available inside the ground, but stalls were set up in the car park. I retreated to buy some water.

The ground had two smallish stands on either side of the pitch with nothing behind the goals, save for dressing rooms at one end and huge mesh high fences to keep the ball next to the pitch. 

All the roofs and fencing had a large series of national flags on top, which I found a lovely touch. The nearside stands were packed, one of which was with schoolkids. Both stands made a real racket. I wandered round to the far side which had a river running behind it, like a poor man's Fulham. 

The weather was sweltering as the game kicked off at 4pm. The ground had no floodlights. Many locals hid in the shade. I managed to get a seat on the basic wooden slats at the back slightly in the shade.

Players of both sides put in a great effort. It must have been extremely draining. Customs fielded three exports. Mika Chunuonsee has Thai parents but was born in Bridgend, Wales and was a former Cardiff City junior. 

Two Brazilians, Paulo Roberto and Wallace Da Silva made up the trio. Despite the overseas influence, Honda went ahead before half time. I reckoned the gate was around 6 to 700. Fans made a lot of noise like the Army game the day before, using a variety of instruments. They weren’t the most melodic I’d ever heard, but they were still preferable to the England band.

At halftime, the kids went, and that stand was filled with away fans. Customs huffed and puffed in the second period but couldn’t break through. I went five minutes from the end as I had a rendezvous with a cricketing pal at the airport, whose departure terminal was visible from the ground. 

I wish my taxi driver had taken a more direct route! The game had ended in a single goal victory for Honda in a game I later discovered to be a local derby. Honda’s stadium was also visible from the airport.

I had fully enjoyed the experience. It was now time to discover the third tier and regional football! I headed to meet my Aussie pal Ian 'Reds' Liddell at the airport for a quick goodbye before meeting Ray 'Lemon' Matti and his Dutch pals downtown.

To see a video of my experience at Customs United, click here.

Customs Ladkrabang United 2 Ranong United 0 (Saturday 15th January 2022) Thai League 2 (att: 220) 

Twelve years after my first visit, I was now permanently based in Minburi, the next district north of Lad Krabang. It took a few weeks before the fixtures aligned for my return. Now armed with local knowledge, attending a match would be relatively easy.

I’d quickly sussed that a songthaew went all the way from Min Buri Market to Lad Krabang Road, so this was a no-brainer. I got out before where I really needed to have a look at the night market before heading to Soi 54.

From there it was another twenty-five-minute walk to Customs Stadium for this 7pm kickoff. Most of the route was without footpaths and quite hazardous, which was noted for future reference. My socks and trainers gathered many prickly plants along the way.

The stewards assumed I was an away fan, presumably as a stranger. This was no hassle as I’ll go in anywhere as long as I see a game. The ticket was 100 Baht, which at the time was around £2.20.

Beer was allowed inside too, unlike in the top division. It was bought from one of a couple of portable stalls outside who also dealt in cheap Thai nibbles and snacks. I immediately noticed that the ground was much improved with stands going the full length of both sides of the pitch.

There was also the addition of an electric scoreboard and excellent floodlights. The far side was now open to the elements, which caused a few occasional nervous glances to the skies, with planes landing with not too much frequency across the way an added distraction.

The match ended in a deserved home win, despite Great Andaman Ranong United, listing their full website title, giving it a good go backed by a smattering of supporters who’d made the long journey to the capital.

The hosts' goals both came from Brazilians, with the sometimes erratic and ever-moody frontman Douglas sending his team in 1-0 ahead with a goal in the second minute of first half additional time.

This was added to by the consistent and rather good thirty-year-old Elias, who netted ten minutes after the restart to give the team led by head coach Warit Boonsripitayaon all three points.

At full time I headed across the road to grab a taxi back to Min Buri to my favourite Brothers and Sisters bar which didn’t seem to have official opening and closing times. Yes, I like Teaw’s attitude there!

Customs Ladkrabang United 1 Phrae United 3 (Friday 11th February 2022) Thai League 2 (att: 235)

I’d told my Min Buri neighbour, and long-term pal Steve all about my previous visit. He was free and decided to give it a go as we added the additional songthaew ride down Soi 54 to save ourselves any danger before taking up a seat undercover with the home fans.

The visitors came deservedly from behind to take the points to augment their push towards the playoffs while Customs were left to decry a big chance to pick up a vital point to help their fight against relegation.

A finely crafted goal from Ahamarasul gave Customs the lead midway through the first half. A brace from halt time sub Wellington Smith after the break after fifty-seven and sixty-six minutes turned the tide.

However, Customs had a glorious opportunity to equalise when they were awarded a penalty eleven minutes from time. The lacklustre Douglas, whose second name should be Bader on the two matches I'd seen him, stepped up and saw his kick saved by Carlos Santos.

The forward's performance really did challenge Bonilla of Port as the most inept I'd seen from the foreign signing since moving to Thailand. Sure enough, Phrae wrapped it up with the last kick of stoppage time through another sub and overseas player Rodrigo Maranhao.

We had a decent enough night out., seeing a decent game after some food on the main road. Unfortunately, the bars opened at the same time as the 6pm kick off so we had a dry night. We put that right next time.

Customs Ladkrabang United 2 Navy FC 1 (Sunday 13th March 2022) Thai League 2 (att: 190)

Steve joined me again to travel by songthaews, split at the top of Soi 54 to the ground by an excellent khao man gai, which is chicken and rice with broth, which cost just over a quid. With free water thrown in for good measure 

Customs started the game third from bottom against the visitors from Sattahip who sat well adrift and were certainties to go down. Surely this had a home win written all over it. We were so sure that we included the game in our treble bet.

Of course, football isn’t always certain, and with Navy having nothing to lose, they went for it, cheered on by some enthusiastic support. I thought the bonny young lady along from me was going to explode as she shouted for her team and gave it to the officials.

Her side took the lead four minutes before the break when Gafar Durosimni saw his shot get a slight deflection on the way in. The hosts were not being helped by a sulky showing from Douglas, who once again looked lazy, moody and petulant. He really was dross as an overseas signing.

The equaliser came just after the hour mark when a fine move saw a bullet header from Elias De Oliveira go in at the back post. Having levelled things up, home player Kitting Aupachakham made a stupid challenge to receive his marching orders for a second yellow.

Douglas was pushing all the right buttons in cranking up my pal and me with his attitude. It was made worse as occasionally he’d play a fine pass or win a towering header. He could do it when he could be bothered and here was his team right in the mire and needing him most 

The coach withdrew him with four minutes remaining. The big man had a hissy fit as he wanted to take a direct free kick first. His teammates pushed him away and pointed to the touchline.

His replacement, Nuttawut Chanachan came on, and took the kick, which was a superb effort that went in off the underside of the bar. Douglas was away to join in the celebrations at lightning pace. If only he’d shown that much energy on the pitch.

Customs just about hung on, defending a late indirect free kick in their own box when the ref booked the keeper for time-wasting. We headed off having really enjoyed the last half hour. A craft bar called Rest Up on Lat Krabang Road was our destination.

We had a draught hoppy beer called Annie Haze from Young Master at 5.5%, which was brewed in Hong Kong. This was followed up by sharing bottles and cans of 7% Summer Head Head which we believe was locally brewed, 6% Nocha Merlin chocolate stout from Ballas Point in San Diego. Truly an international occasion.

Finally, we opted for a sour 5% honey beer called Nonthaburi Mead brewed in the northern outskirts which we didn’t massively enjoy. Rest Up is a fine bar with ambient music which shows the football from the UK, but it is not cheap.

It was comparable with London prices, but a treat now and again is welcome. We vowed to be back.

Customs Ladkrabang United 1 Ayutthaya United 0 (Saturday 26th March 2022) Thai League 2 (att: 180)

United were dicing perilously close to relegation when I attended this game, somewhat against my original plans. Several hours I’d headed west on the train to Chachoengsao, with a proper day out being my intended plan.

I’d head to their match against Muang Loei United in the third-level Champions League promotion playoffs, then enjoy a couple of beers on the way back to the station. The warning alarms sounded when I arrived at Fighting Fish Stadium twenty minutes before the advertised kickoff with nobody else around.

The ground had been moved to Chang Park in Chonburi, impossible to reach without a car. Instead, I wandered back, observing a couple of decent-looking bars for future visits as well as the club offices and shop on Em Onithit 1.

Of course, announcing my cock up on social media gave plenty of pals a giggle, of which I’ve no issues whatsoever. I took an earlier train and alighted at Hua Takhe station and grabbed a songthaew on what was a sweltering afternoon.

I was most grateful for a bottle of water and then a beer with lots of ice on arriving at the stadium prior to taking my usual vantage point in the covered section of the home stand. I was to see a game with application, making up for the paucity of quality.

Much to my surprise Douglas put in a proper shift. Maybe it was near contract time, or he was being given a bonus if Customs stayed up. The ever-reliable Elias netted the only goal seven minutes after the break.

By hook and crook, the hosts hung on for a valuable three points. Generally, I didn’t approve of some of the tactics they employed, but this was vital stuff and I’d taken to them in a strange sort of way. Their retaining second-tier football offered me a decent nearby option.

Customs Ladkrabang United 2 Samut Prakan City 1 (Wednesday 20^th July 2022) Friendly (att: c10)

Checking out Facebook this game appeared on my timeline. Just the job with a 4pm kick-off, with the usual means of transport running perfectly. I was slightly concerned on arrival that the normal spectator gate was locked. I went in where the officials entered.

To be honest the game wasn’t much more than a training exercise and was played over three thirty-minute periods. The pitch was marked by cones and portable goals made it shorter in length.

Both teams used at least twenty-two players so everyone got a run. It was of a decent pace and plenty of skill was in evidence. Customs gave a couple of their overseas signings the final period to impress.

One of them, Alessandro Di Stefano added to an earlier United goal from Phanomphon Phuangmalai. A Japanese import grabbed City’s consolation. By the time I eventually got home, I was thoroughly drenched, having been caught up in a storm and flash flood of biblical proportions in Minburi.

Customs United 3 Udonthani 1 (Saturday 3rd September 2022) Thai League 2 (att: 520) 

It was time to see how United performed in competitive action after an unbeaten start in their first three games. Udon on the other hand were without a win. My friend Gary was down with his family, so I headed to his hotel on Ramkhamhaeng Road to meet up.

Saturday teatime traffic was congested on Rom Klao and Lat Krabang Road, with us eventually getting to the ground fifteen minutes before kickoff. The changes off the pitch at Customs Stadium were also in evidence. 

There were more vendors, with one selling trainers for one of the sponsors. The beer stand was being marshalled by two chaps who seemed inexperienced if pleasant. With drinks in hand, we paid our 100 baht and headed to the far end main stand seating.

A minute silence was held before kickoff for referee Titichai Nuanchan who had died in a road accident after officiating in the game between Nongbua Pitchaya and Ratchaburi the previous evening. The hosts took the initiative straight from the kickoff with Port FC loanie Anusak Jaiphet hitting the side netting. 

He followed that up by heading just wide from a corner before the visitors also showed their attacking intent with Greg Houla leading the line well. However, Customs went ahead with sixteen minutes on the clock when Natthawat Thobansong cut inside and fired a beauty into the far top corner.

David Cuerva was having a fine game in the middle of the park for United with big import centre-back Adnan Orahovac showing signs of dominance. Aung Kaung Mann got in for the away side but dragged his shot across the goal.

Kittiwut Bouloy looked tricky from the start, and he created havoc before putting a low shot away to make it 2-0 six minutes before the break. There was still time for Udon to half the deficit before the break, when Houla, then Sang-bum Jo set up Weerawat Jiraphaksiri to fire home from the edge of the box.

Thobansong bent a free kick wide shortly after the restart, with the hosts extending their lead on sixty-six minutes when a ball inside saw the second of five Port loanees, Phodchara Chainarong too quick for his marker as he ran through and slotted home. The difference between him and last season's striker Douglas was glaring.

Daisuke Sakai was the next home player to cut inside for a shot on goal, but he was denied by keeper Jaturong Samakorn. Great play in the corner from sub Pheemphapob Viriyachancha led to him crossing where Sakai somehow headed wide in front of a gaping net.

Udonthani kept going until the end and did not play badly. It's just they were up against what I thought was a very good and exciting outfit. At full time we headed back to Minburi for an evening of jollity in my Brothers & Sisters Bar, my favourite local establishment.

Customs United 0 Bangkok United 1 (Wednesday 16^th November 2022) Thai League Cup Round of 32 (att: 570) 

Back down to Ladkrabang 54 via the usual means including a walk and some further discovery for possible future reference along the main drag. A good crowd split about 50/50 between home and away fans saw a spirited Customs display.

It looked like it might have been a one-sided affair when the visitors went ahead after ten minutes when the excellent Heberty smashed home a nod down from Willen Mota leaving keeper Teerath Nakchamnarn with no chance. 

The lead nearly doubled midway through the first half when a glancing header went narrowly wide. Customs defended resiliently before Heberty stung the palms of Nakchamnarn from the edge of the box and a couple more efforts went over the bar before the first period ended.

Sub, Chayawat Srinawong saw his attempt scrambled off the line by Customs defender Panomporn Puangmalai before referee Torphong Somsing turned away appeals for a penalty at the other end that he could well have given. 

The hosts continued giving their all and pushed for an equalizer but found the Bangkok defence well marshalled. The score was about right, and I managed to grab a taxi all the way home in quick time so I could head over the road for food and drink.

Customs United 2 Muangthong United 2 (Wednesday 26th July 2023) Friendly (att: c120)

A midweek bonus as both teams prepared for the season openers just over a fortnight later. An enjoyable game too, pleasing on the eye in which the hosts came back from 2-0 down against higher division opposition, at least in name.

Muangthong took the lead in the opening minute when a clumsy foul on the edge of the box saw their 24 rifling the resulting free-kick into the top corner of the net. After this Customs controlled the play and created a few half-chances.

A big African chap saw his effort well saved by the MTU keeper before a fellow of similar origins but slender build had one cleared off the line. A player who could have been of Brazilian heritage missed a sitter at the back post, to the chagrin of the Customs animated coach.

No team sheets were available, so identifying either side was difficult, even more so Customs whose players had no numbers on their shirts, while the visitors fielded a young side, who I presume were fringe, some first team, and some academy players.

Customs were going through a turbulent spell. Previously backed by Port FC financially and with loan signings, they are going it alone and no doubt trawling through many trialists, hence the lack of identity.

Who knew where that would leave them this season, with some observers reckoning on a season of struggle. It was hard to say, but on this performance, I thought that they had enough good players, if they retained the right ones, to comfortably stay up. It would be a matter of gelling them.

The second half continued in a similar fashion, with the home side on the ascendency, and the away goalie making a fine near post stop. Then his side broke down the right with some fine interplay. The number 5 dragged a wonderful low ball back well outside the box where the onrushing 10 slammed home hard and low on the hour mark.

The breeze on a beautiful early evening and 5pm kickoff was most welcome, at a venue which I enjoyed visiting, being close to the pitch down either side with raised views. A shame the catering vendors didn’t appear as they lost out.

Six minutes later Customs were back in it, after a corner wasn’t cleared. The ball bobbled about before it was hooked in off the underside of the bar. Seven minutes from the end came the equaliser, as a low free-kick bounced in front of the keeper who fumbled and was put away by a sub who was lively throughout, showing potential.

A nice friendly atmosphere to match the game, with many in attendance being MTU fans, not massively impressed with the goalkeeping error.

Before the match I headed to Lat Krabang near Suvarnabhumi Airport, where my songthaew was struck in traffic which gave me a glimpse of a sign saying café, bar, open. It was called Kota. As I was ahead of schedule it would have been ridiculous to overlook such an invite.

Craft beers are not cheap in Thailand, so large cans for around £4 or 189 Baht is reasonable, though half that price at some 7/11 stores. I enjoyed both the 5% Pale Ale and 4.5% Cashmere Session IPA from Thai brewer Mahanakhon. Cashew nuts, with chillies, onion, and lime are the perfect accompaniment and are highly recommended.

Lat Krabang was extremely vibrant after the game, with bars, music, and lots of stalls and street food. Once my domain, but my good lady had prepared dinner for me back home. Cheap travel, free admission football, beers, and a proper taste of Thailand made for the perfect evening.

Customs United 1 Chiangmai United 3 (Sunday 13^th August 2023) Thai League 2 (att: 428)

A watchable encounter on the opening weekend for the top two tiers in Thailand. I’d been given a tip to watch a player but couldn’t work out how his non-African appearance matched his shirt number, and why so many in our stand were cheering the away team.

The first goal went in for the boys in blue, Customs colours, on eighteen minutes. Then the scoreboard revealed that CMU were in blue, their regular change kit and CU were in red, their second strip. A cock up by the away side’s kit man no doubt.

Anyway, that goal scored by Pattara Soimalai had been coming for a while. Customs were alright but the away team seemed physically stronger in all departments. The score was doubled when the marvelously nicknamed Brazilian, Mosquito made it 2-0 shortly before halftime.

The game was put to bed two minutes after the restart when Ho Ju volleyed through a crowd past motionless keeper Theerawat Pinpradub. Both he and opposing goalie Pirot Eammak would have been better off concentrating on their jobs than looking to get involved in any minor incident, with neither shy to roll around in fake pain. Fortunately, referee Chaikrit Inboonsong was having none of it and had a good game.

Defender Phattaraphon Gangsopa tapped in at the back post following a scramble to offer hope to the home side who later hit the bar and saw one flaring opportunity being blasted over the bar. Thossaporn Chuchin was sent off for the visitors for a second bookable offence and took some ushering away. He was most upset.

An enjoyable time spent in the company of my good mate Steve, with a songthaew taking us all the way to Lat Krabang where craft beers were consumed at the pleasant Kota Restaurant and Bar before a cab to the stadium for the 7pm kickoff where street food snacks and large bottles of Leo were available. They could be, and were, consumed while watching the game.

Post-match we gave a local a ride in our cab as he wanted a train back into the city from the Airport Link station, while we jumped out and had another couple of beers at Rest Up, which served lovely fries. I dread to have seen the state of the chicken that the tender bits we were served came from mind.

Customs United 0 Suphanburi 0 (Saturday 23rd December 2023) Thai League 2 (att: 146)

An entertaining 0-0 in a 6pm kick-off with both sides playing fast exciting football on the deck but failing to hit the target. Both keepers had their palms stung from decent shots while several efforts went narrowly wide or over.

The away fans were unlikely to be buying the ref any Christmas presents judging by the vitriol aimed in his direction at full-time. Suphanburi pushing for a play-off place were turned down a penalty, which I personally thought was the correct decision. 

Customs won at home the previous week but still found themselves in the relegation zone. I think on the evidence of this showing, that they might have had enough to escape. The game in general was a chasm in standards above the T3 stuff I normally watched in Sisaket.

It was a most pleasant afternoon and evening all told. My wife and I took her son and girlfriend plus a couple of young nephews (9 and 11 years old) for a wonderful alfresco lunch overlooking a lake before I took the youngsters with me for their first taste of a live match.

My Roving Report for A Thai Football Podcast

They seemed to enjoy it, particularly the snacks and pop stalls. They got a bus, songthaew, and taxi ride and I delivered them home safely to happy parents. I must admit, it made my day to share it with them. Hopefully, the first of a few adventures.

I enjoyed a couple of beers with my Bangkok based pal Vaughan, as we chewed the fat while watching the game. I was in the capital at our suburban condo before we headed down the gulf the following morning to the seaside at Bangsaray to enjoy Christmas with friends.