Suphachalasai Stadium (Bangkok)

Suphachalasai Stadium in central Bangkok is part of the National Stadium complex, which also includes Thephasadin Stadium, next door. Just a little further along the main road stands the indoor Nimibutr Arena completing a fine array of sporting facilities.

As of 2023, the area was still in use regularly, though the Sports Authority of Thailand facility on Ramkhamhaeng Road which included the newer Rajamangala Stadium seemed to attract more events, especially large concerts.

Suphachalasai Stadium is a multi-purpose arena that was opened in 1935 with a modern capacity around of 20,000. Over the years it hosted many football internationals before the construction of Rajamangala.

Several different Thai league clubs, including Chonburi have also used the stadium, particularly for Asian Football Confederation competitions as many league grounds don't meet the criteria required while often staging domestic finals and showpiece matches, including the 2010 Kor Cup clash between Muangthong United and Port FC that ended early owing to crowd violence.

Suphachalasai was used as the main stadium for the 1966, 1970 and 1978 Asian Games. It also staged the game between Oman and Iraq in the 2007 AFC Asian Cup. Michael Jackson played two sell out concerts in the stadium in August 1993.

In 2013 the stadium was given a refurbishment and a new running track. The arena staged the athletics events in the 2023 Asian Games after being further spruced up.

My visits

April 2008

In Thailand primarily for the Chiang Mai International Cricket Sixes and a holiday afterwards, I was staying at Steve and Ea's on the outskirts of the city and decided that a day looking at the stadiums in the city was in order.

I took the sky train to the station called National Stadium, which is extremely convenient. Next door stands the Thephasadin Stadium, which was used at the time by various club sides. It was like a warmup stadium for the main structure by the looks of things.

I was delighted to see the goods entrance opened by the main gates, so I wandered in. There were many labourers readying the stadium for the next event, but a smile did the trick, and I was inside.

The stadium had a running track, but the stands were right alongside it and were steeply banked. Three sides were opened with a roof over the main straight of the track. I could easily imagine it being able to create a good atmosphere with a big crowd.

I left and found several side streets behind the covered side were the hub of sports equipment in the country. Rows and rows of shops sold replica shirts of varying authenticity at wide price ranges depending on the naivety and bargaining power of the buyer.

I found the shop of Grand Sport, the company that provided kits to many Thai League teams and bought a few shirts for my collection. I just wish Thai sizes were the same as in the UK!

Monday 28th October 2013

With the day to myself following a brilliant couple of weeks in Thailand and the Cricket Sixes complete, with my travelling companions heading home I decided to fill in the day before my evening flight home.

I’d called in to take photos next door at Thephasadin Stadium before once again finding the huge corner gate open into the main arena. Construction work was going on to the running track. The seating areas looked in brilliant condition, as did the pitch which was being watered.

I took time out to walk right around the stadium, and inside the concourse which housed many of the nation’s sporting institutions, including the National Refereeing Institute, The Sports Association for the Disabled of Thailand, and the FA of Thailand. I got an unobstructed view through the railed gates from the far end of the arena.

Outside I stopped to watch and film some local lads playing the Thai football game of takraw, which is like head tennis played on training grounds around the world. The difference in Thailand is that the ball is made of woven rattan which can be seen here on the video I took.

Like on my previous visit, I wanted to return home with a souvenir, so I went in search of the shops selling team shirts, which I discovered to be around Chulalongkorn 2 and 4. There was lots of choice for anyone not of such a full figure, but after plenty of perusal, I bought a fine Chamchuri United top for around a tenner.

I headed back to Asoke to drain the last drop out of my stay before heading to the airport after another amazing holiday in the Land of Smiles.

Thursday 29th October 2015

I was in Bangkok following the Thailand International Cricket Sixes. After the tournament, we visited Pattaya before returning to the capital, where I undertook the role of tour guide to a trio of mates. I had a big day planned for us all, which covered most bases.

After a pleasant lunch, we headed on the Sky Train to the National Stadium so that my mates could look inside and take photos. The gate was open, and the place was deserted so we had could take our time.

Once we were done, we took taxis to the Grand Palace, on a riverboat trip on the Chao Phraya River, a wander down Khao San Road and then an evening's Thai boxing at the Ratchadamnoen Boxing Stadium to round off a magnificent day.

Muang Thong United 2 Chiangrai United 0 (Wednesday 22^nd November 2017) Thai League Cup Final (16,788)

Luck was finally on my side to enable me to watch a game at Supachalasai Stadium while I enjoyed a few days holiday in Bangkok following the 2017 Thailand International Cricket Sixes.

The Thai FA can be sometimes erratic with their planning, but this time they came up trumps. Indeed, if I had been staying a few days longer I would have also had the opportunity to attend the FA Cup final.

The event had gone well personally as an administrator, even if not on the pitch for the touring Beer Battered Seadogs. We’d enjoyed every minute together in a great city. The last of the boys had gone home on the morning of the match, to allow me some downtime.

And boy I needed it, to let the body and mind rest and allow for a bit of personal pampering without having to consider others or be anywhere at a set time.

After moving from the Windsor Suites Hotel, I decided to give the famous Nana Hotel a go. It turned out to be a bit of a mistake, with the room having no windows and dated average facilities to boot. The location, however, was excellent.

It provided everything for any tourist in search of food, drinks, and various forms of entertainment within a few yards. I wasn't going to be spending much time indoors after all.

I’d booked the match tickets online by opening an account with Thai Ticket Major for myself and Steve Walker, who was to head into the city after work. My instructions were to collect the tickets from one of their several outlets.

I headed to Siam Central in the heart of the city and found the ticket desk on the seventh floor. It’s fair to say that I was less than impressed to be told that I needed to pick them up before the match at the stadium.

There had been no indication of this in my confirmation email. The lady said it was the norm from seven days before an event. This would have taken some doing as tickets only went on sale nine days before the final. It was Thai bureaucracy at its best.

Following a much-needed siesta, I met Steve in Starbucks by the main intersection. We had lots of time to kill, so once I’d used his phone for a call with fellow Chiang Mai International Cricket Sixes committee man George Appleton, we decided to walk to the stadium.

It proved a prudent plan as several buildings on the route offered desperately appreciated facilities. The hot Bangkok weather and an unhealthy diet eventually did for me.

Crowds were building from the Nimibutr Indoor Stadium and then outside Thephasadin Stadium, primarily with Muang Thong supporters, despite there being just under three hours until kick-off. It promised a decent atmosphere for the match.

A security check was required to enter the main forecourt outside the National or Supachalasai Stadium. Inside the crowds were larger as both clubs had souvenir stalls set up, and several sponsors promoted their wares.

The queue for tickets was painless. Larger queues formed for fans to have their photo taken with the League Cup. The whole atmosphere was vibrant but relaxed. We continued round to where our entrance would be to the stadium.

Fortunately, further facilities had been provided outside. It gave me a surreal moment in the loos, listening to Steve trying to explain to the local police where Scarborough was and what league the Boro played in, as we were both wearing replica shirts.

Eventually, we found our way to what I thought was a familiar area near the new Chula University buildings. The whole area had received a makeover since my previous visit, with lots of new little squares and modern constructions appearing.

It looked like they had replaced the old area selling football shirts and equipment. A decent-sized group of Chiangrai fans had gathered to set up an impromptu party around food and drink vendors.

After I had taken some tablets for my tummy issues, we decided to eat in one of the many local outlets. Steve went for the beef stew on rice, while I had the Chinese-style chicken in sauce with rice. The food was exceptional, even if the portions were small. Each dish cost 50 Baht, which was just over £1 at the exchange rate of the time.

Walking back towards the stadium I suddenly noticed the football shops. We had been a block out. As time was on our side, I had the opportunity to check out and find my nephew Stan a couple of kits. The Paris St Germain and AS Roma sets cost a combined total of 500 Baht.

Delighted with my purchases we headed back to the stadium, with just under an hour to kick off. We had to go right back to the far end and gain admission through security once again. We had another check before reaching our gate and had our hand stamped in case we wanted to pop out for food and drink.

I had bought us the most expensive tickets for 150 Baht down the main side and under the huge roof in the Chiangrai United section, just in case of any heavy showers. We had been caught out in the past at Port’s TAT Stadium and didn’t want it happening again.

Seats were unreserved, so we found a decent place towards the back. The arena gradually began to fill, with the MTU section already busy with fans signing and hanging their banners.

There had been an expose of bribery and match-fixing charges involving players of Sisaket and Navy, as well as match officials a few days before the final. This was not a huge surprise to regular viewers who’d long suspected that some referees could not be so accidentally incompetent.

The Muang Thong fans displayed a banner saying Money Cannot Buy History, as a dig at the heavily spending Chiangrai. While history was not available for cash, it was claimed that some referees were.

CRU are the furthest northern side in the competition, so their support was always going to be dwarfed by that of the local side MTU. Their mission hadn’t been made easy by the planning of the Thai FA.

Chiangrai had also reached the final of the FA Cup, which was taking place against Bangkok United the following Saturday. This meant any fans travelling by road would arrive back in their northern city after the match and then set off again twenty-four hours later if they were to attend both games.

Despite this, The Beetles had a decent following; no doubt boosted by neutrals and several Port fans who would cheer for the underdogs and naturally disliked all things MTU. Steve and I fitted those categories.

As the teams came out the MTU tried to put on a banner display similar to the ones seen at German stadia. Hilariously they tried to show 1989 to signify the year of their foundation on four separate sheets. Those in charge of one sheet had it back to front and then upside down to the hilarity of everyone else.

To see the arrival of the teams and the King's Anthem, click here.

There was no doubt that Muang Thong was the ultimate corporate machine with Ultra fans, a smart purpose-built stadium, big sponsors, and star players. It could have been Manchester United, right down to the playing kit.

Like the English version, they also got the rub of the green with every 50/50 decision, or so it seemed. It was to be the case once again as referee Siwakorn Phoo-udom did his absolute best to oblige.

Teerasil Dangda was undoubtedly a talented footballer and the darling of the Thai game, but he may as well have refereed the match himself. He could have easily been shown a yellow card on three occasions, yet if a defender went near him, he received a free kick.

Brazilian midfielder Heberty Fernandes also looked to simulate and look for assistance from the officials. I far preferred the excellent play of left-back Theerathon Bunmathan.

Chiang Rai played some fine football, with their Brazilian forward Rafael Coelho doing his best to lead the line. In truth, they were missing a big man up front to put pressure on the shaky MTU defence. They escaped far too many times.

The game ebbed and flowed and was decent enough until the deadlock was broken ten minutes before the break. Heberty was adjudged to have been fouled around twenty-five yards out. His free kick was excellently saved by Chatchai Budprom, but full-back Peerapat Notchaiya followed up to smash the ball home from an acute angle.

CRU came out to give it a real go in the second half, cheered on by their appreciative rather than fanatical following. They really did miss a decent forward. Despite having plenty of play and plenty of pressure, they didn’t have the vital cutting-edge.

The game was decided on the hour mark. MTU soaked up the pressure before a fine slide rule pass sent in Teerasil to slot home and make it 2-0 to the elation of the Kirins fans behind the goal.  

To Chiang Rai’s credit, they continued to do their best, when it must have been tempting to save some energy for the FA Cup Final a few days later. Midfielder Everton Gonçalves was sent off in the final minute of normal time with a second yellow card.

We made our way down to the front and then out of the gate in the hope of beating the MTU crowds to the main road and transport systems. It didn’t quite pan out that way.

The queues were already huge for the BTS Sky Train, so we set off walking. The traffic was piling out of MBK and Siam shopping and entertainment complexes at the same time as the football finished leading to large traffic snarl-ups.

Steve went ahead to try and get a cab to Minburi. I toyed with several ideas before I too hailed a taxi back to Nana. The traffic was so bad that my driver found it quicker going south through Khlong Toei, up to Asoke and then down the opposite side of Sukhumvit Road.

Once I’d dumped my gear in my room I headed out for a few beers. I had a relaxed few in Speakeasy on Soi 15 catching up on the week's football highlights before heading to the Bier Garden for an entertaining hour or so.

It had been a decent evening night out, even if the match result wasn’t as I would have preferred. I awoke the next day in fine form and headed to the Kiwi Bar to watch the opening day’s play in The Ashes. That was a whole new tale!

SRV FC 4 Sarawittaya School 1 (Monday 28^th August 2023) Thailand Prime Minister Cup u16 Bangkok Zone (att: c100)

Occasionally random friendly games with amateurs crop up so I check out my saved clubs on Facebook a couple of times a week. One, Bangkapi FC showed a video of their juniors in action, so I explored further, finding that two semifinals were being played at Supachalasai National Stadium.

With a few spare hours and nothing on at home, I made the decision to head out for the day knowing that I was going to the Muangthong United v Port game later that evening. A couple of different took me to Bangkapi. 

From there boat down the canal went directly into the city from where it was a short walk to the stadium, which had seen its surroundings engulfed in recent years in a similar fashion to Wembley Stadium, only in a more pleasant environment. It really had changed since my first visit.

Armed with drinks and snacks from the local 7/11 I entered the main stand and tried to decipher who the teams were. I had a schedule along with the two initial groups on my phone, which Google Translate helped me with. 

I was initially confused on arrival midway through the first half as when there was a break for drinks as both sides got their water from the nearest bench plus everyone was wearing the same shorts and socks. 

I saw some spectators wearing the name of SRV on their backs, and did a Google and Facebook search which took me to the school which had its own football page, where low and behold the game was being screened live. 

I sought out the commentator and at halftime, he confirmed that both teams were from the same establishment. There was no schoolmate stuff around the match mind, with Sarawittaya on top before SRV took the lead before the break. 

They extended the lead before it went back to 2-1. As the limbs tired on a stunning afternoon and play became stretched on the full-sized pitch in superb surroundings another couple of goals followed.

Excellent fun, as the second two semifinalists limbered up for their later 4.15pm clash waiting for their turn in such an impressive location. It was good to see the facility being utilised properly, with such a good playing surface allowing the youngsters to portray their talent.

My visit is covered here in the first part of the video made for 

A Thai Football Podcast.

The final was at the same venue at 3.30 on Thursday but I decided another trek into the city for that one, was a bit too much. At full time I headed by sky train to Victory Monument hoping the info my travel app was throwing up was accurate so that I could beat the traffic in time for beers in Nonthaburi.

 

Port FC post June 2021

Click here for history and visits prior to the 2021-22 season.

The spell of Sarawut Treephan as team boss was a short one with his replacement being Dusit Chalermsan before Treephan was reinstated by the trigger-happy Madam Pang. Jadet Meelarp returned as interim for a fourth spell in an interim role as Port stuttered to an eighth-place finish.

Scott Cooper was appointed as manager in June 2022 as the playing squad saw big changes. However, the manager was judged to have underperformed as he was sacked and replaced by his assistant Matt Holland, before the appointments of joint head coaches, Choketawee Promrut and Surapong Kongthep.

Despite finishing third in the league, Owner Madam Pang decided that another change of coach was required in November 2023 as former Police Tero boss Rangsan Viwatchaichok was installed. He took the side to another third spot as Hamilton and Teerasak Poeiphimnai weighed in with the goals. Further investment in the side saw the arrival of Willen Mota.

Despite a bright start to the 2024-25 season, the side dropped disappointing points as coach Rangsan resigned after a year in charge.

Port FC will play in Thai League 1 in the 2024-25 season.

My visits from 2022

Port FC 1 Bangkok United 1 (Sunday 9th January 2022) Thai League 1 (att: 1,053) 

Port like most clubs had their capacities cut owing to Covid. I had stayed over downtown and saw that the club were asking fans to queue for vouchers from 7am to guarantee a ticket when they went on sale at 10am.

I was too late for that, but quickly made friends with a German Port fan who played a couple of seasons for Bayer Leverkusen in the mid-70s. He kindly got me two tickets as each token allowed four. I also had a plan B. I think someone gets their beer free of charge down there as I was told I could get sorted for 200 THB each. The actual tickets were 120 THB.

My pal Steve joined me for the match as we sat with locals drinking beer and making friends out on the street before the match. The game itself was a midfield battle with the home team going ahead shortly before halftime through Adisak Kraisorn.

A miraculous save from the United keeper Michael Falkesgaard kept his side in it as they took the ascendency after former Port player Heberty came on and was roundly booed following his spell with the club and his previous career at bitter rivals Muang Thong United.

 

The game ended in controversy. The linesman flagged for offside as the Port defence more or less stopped. The ball was crossed and put away by sub, Thitipan Puangohan. On referral to VAR, the goal stood. The home fans, never the slowest in showing their emotions went berserk. It was about the right result but not a nice way for it to come about.

Port FC 2 Suphanburi 0 (Wednesday 9th February 2022) Thai League 1 (att: 1,681) 

A win’s a win but it was a far-from-inspired performance by the hosts who showed an obvious lack of confidence. At least the effort was there. Goals came from Bordin after twenty-eight minutes and substitute Nattawat in stoppage time. 

He had replaced hapless Salvadorian striker Nelson Bonilla who would struggle to score in Patpong on his form at the time. It is always sad to see a player struggle, especially when they take up decent positions. It looked like both parties were resigned to it not working out. 

I had caught the bus from the end of my complex to the stadium gates where I picked up my pre-paid ticket from the booth, leaving me time for a few drinks from the pop-up bars on the street outside PAT Stadium.

It was also nice to have a quick slurp after the game with some local lads I've befriended before a taxi home. It was also nice to celebrate the opening goal with Madam Pang who was upstairs in her apartment behind the goal in a happy mood.

Port FC 1 Chiangmai United 2 (Sunday 13th February 2022) Thai League 1 (att: 1,825) 

PAT Stadium was still restricted to a 25% capacity because of Covid, but selling out wasn't going to be an issue with performances like this particularly abject offering in places against the bottom of the table away side. United fully deserved the three points.

Their physical Brazilian pairing of forward Bill and centre-back Evson showed how to put in professional performances. Both must have been ruined at full time, after giving everything as well as using their nous in game management and knowing how to see a game out.

Thawin Butsombat scored for Chiang Mai within the first minute. Four minutes after the break Ekanit Panya doubled the lead after the linesman had originally flagged for offside before VAR correctly gave the goal.

Port mounted some pressure and got one back through Kevin Deeromram to set up a grandstand last twenty minutes. Bonilla had been introduced at the break. There was more chance of me scoring. 

I had taken the opportunity to sit downstairs down the side where the most passionate locals offer advice to all and sundry as I try to work out where I fancy getting a season pass for next time round.

It reminded me of Morton in Scotland in terms of vitriol and in terms of being able to understand what exactly was being shouted. It was an experience. I had time to kill before the game. 

My intention was to rid my Saturday night hangover by heading out early, buying a ticket and then going on to the Bangkok Premier League match at 4pm between Harmonious United and Nonthaburi City before returning to PAT for 7.30.

However, the buses let me down, so I ended up having a lengthy walk and an all-day English breakfast at the excellent Sportsman bar on Sukhumvit Soi 13. Ironically enough a bus turned up from the other side of Khlong Toei Market not long after the game to take me all the way back to Min Buri.

Port 0 Chiangrai United 0 (Wednesday 9th March 2022) Thai League 1 (att: 1,629) 

A bus took me most of the way into town before getting snarled up in rush hour traffic meaning that I required a cab to complete the journey if I wanted a couple of libations from the pop-up stalls.

Port were on an awful run and had two players suspended along with injuries, but they put on an excellent display, full of effort and energy. Well generally anyway. Salvadorian forward Nelson Bonilla really was a waste of space, totally lacking in confidence and commitment. 

The hosts had a goal ruled out just before the break for offside after a VAR review. I enjoyed the displays of twenty-one-year-old Swedish/Thai William Weidersjö, in midfield until he ran out of gas and the ever-willing Philip Roller, a Thai with a German father, wide on the right. He was prone to errors but gave his all each match.

There was a good turnout of away fans and the usual PAT Stadium experience where I took a seat at a bar next to a young fella called Jorge, a freelance walking tour guide in Bangkok. We sat in the ground together too. Even better a bus took me all the way back to my local from the far side of Khlong Toei Market so I could enjoy a couple of nightcaps.

Port FC 3 Nongbua Pitchaya 0 (Sunday 1^st May 2022) Thai League 1 (att: 2,875) 

The previous evening, I had been at the excellent Ratchaburi v Chonburi match before catching a bus back to Bangkok and heading down to buy tickets, as I was to be joined by my pal Steve along with three Aussie mates from the annual cricket in Chiang Mai.

It was a pleasant surprise to find that tickets were being given away free as a thank you from Madam Pang. We all met at Oasis Bar on Soi Cowboy before heading to the match, where we were hit with a huge downpour as we were going in. Fortunately, an opportunist poncho seller came to the rescue. 

Port were aided by an early Nongbua red card given by referee Noppadet Mangngam to Iain Ramsay who spat at a home player. The hosts played extremely well and put on a proper display, somehow going in 0-0 at the break after doing everything but score.

They were backed by an excellent raucous atmosphere, which my guests really enjoyed. The visitor’s rearguard was finally breached three minutes after the interval when the unfortunate Yuttapong Srilakon put the ball in his own net.

The ever-excellent Sergio Suárez scored the second which was added to in stoppage time by sub Nurul Sriyankem. We headed away in good form to grab a cab back to Min Buri.

Port FC 0 Lamphun Warriors 0 (Sunday 14^th August 2022) Thai League 1 (att: 6,065) 

This was more like it, at least pre-match, as the full fan zone had re-opened and a full capacity available. The club had decided to charge just 50 THB a ticket for the first half of the season as well as removing seats in areas where the most vocal fans congregated. 

There was no shortage of encouragement for Port, but the performance failed to live up to expectation and had to thank their keeper Worawut Srisupa for making some excellent saves as Warriors nearly took all three points in their first game at the top level of Thai football. 

A good day for me, as I had been to a decent Thonburi League clash between Thaispirit and FC Bangsaotong with my friend Vaughan and his son Pat before they dropped me in town. The slow but cheap 519 took me back to my local bar after the game.

Port FC 1 Bangkok United 1 (Sunday 2^nd October 2022) Thai League 1 (att: 4,199)

 

I had considered heading to Chamchuri United v Samutsakon City in advance of this fixture, but tiredness ruled it out. Instead, the direct 519 bus dropped me outside the PAT to collect my pre-paid 50 Baht ticket, just as it started tipping down thirty minutes before the 6pm kick off.

Fortunately, a poncho seller was on hand making quick sales. A couple of beers and then inside. Port played pretty well against a decent United side. going ahead five minutes before the break when referee Chaireag Ngam-Som awarded a debatable penalty. 

Hamilton stepped to slot the spot kick home past keeper Michael Falkesgaard. The man in the middle had an indifferent game but probably got the big calls about right. After the break Vander Luiz levelled things up after an hour and then antagonised the home fans with his over the top celebrations.

The pattern of the match would change halfway through the second period when after a check of the VAR monitor, home defender Suphanan Bureerat was correctly shown a straight red card after bringing down a United forward on his way to goal. 

There followed a fine back to the wall display from Cooper’s side that would have ended in certain defeat before his arrival. Port even strung a few promising attacks of their own together but couldn’t find a way through.

United had the majority of possession but were either wasteful or came up against resilient defending. A draw was the right outcome. At full time I headed through the market and caught the bus back to Minburi in time to catch some Premier League football.

Port 3 Sukhothai 0 (Wednesday 2^nd November 2022) Thai FA Cup Round of 64 (att: 2,654)

I arrived at this cup tie with Marco, and Jim who runs the Port FC Sambapit Twitter feed by Grab taxi after we had been to the earlier match at Samut Prakhan Stadium for the match in the same round between FC Bangsaotong and Uthai Thani.

Our driver had worked the oracle and we arrived in time for a beer. The match followed the pattern of a normal Port game. Lots of possession and pretty football, but chances going begging and the lack of someone being able to strike on target from the edge of the box.

Indeed, with the frustration growing I popped down to buy my round for the boys when I heard a cheer from the stands. Teerasak Poeiphimai scored in first-half stoppage time. At the break, I had a lovely chat with an elder Port fan Geoff, who supports Watford back home, with our subject for ten minutes or so being Luther Blissett.

In a good mood anyway, this chat brought a smile to my face as we swapped ends after the break which seemed rather apt after talking about a football legend of yesteryear. There was something of a festival atmosphere among the crowd as Port laid siege to the Sukhothai goal.

The score was doubled after sixty-six minutes when “the Brazilian Andy Carroll” otherwise known as Hamilton scored. Towards the end of the match, I decided to go upstairs down the side for another view and to see what my missed calls were all about.

My good lady Taew had been trying to reach me, as it transpired that a random English bloke had turned up in her bar. I told her to ask him to hold on, and I would get a taxi back rather than the bus, just as Poeiphimai rounded off the scoring. 

The fella lived in Phuket but was in the capital when his wife gave birth to their first child prematurely in Nawamin 9 Hospital opposite the bar. He had gone in to try and relax and have a drink and eat. I was enormously proud, but in no way shocked, that Taew had made his experience so happy.

If I had been in a good mood previously, then this put the icing on the cake, as we shared a couple more drinks before he headed back to see his tired lady who would be transferred to a hospital with their child in Nonthaburi the following day 

Port 2 Nakhon Ratchasima 0 (Saturday 12th November 2022) Thai League 1 (att: 3,118) 

My next visit to the PAT allowed me to partake in one of my favourite pastimes and introduce friends to the experience for the first time. My pal Gary was down from Buriram and had wanted to tick BG Stadium off his list, but their game against Kawasaki Frontale in the J League Asia Challenge was a surprising sellout.

He pondered while we had drinks after the Samut Prakan City v Rajpracha match the previous evening before he agreed to go with me. We met at The Mall Bangkapi before taking the boat down the Saen Saep and had lunch in The Sportsman on Soi 13. 

The pub was packed, predominantly with Kiwis as New Zealand were playing England in the final of the women’s Rugby World Cup. Some of the loud cheering was enough after food and I pint so we headed instead to Lek’s Last Stand on Sukhumvit Road.

We were joined by Andy Crossland and his pal Steve from Sunderland, though now a resident in Beverley for a pint before we went to The Clubhouse where Gary was meeting some Port fans he knew, but who weren’t going to the match. From there it was a taxi to the stadium.

My friends really enjoyed the fan zone outside, My pal Marco had done the business purchasing the 50 Baht tickets in advance, and we were sorted with a table and chairs as the staff of one outlet did their best to offer wonderful customer service.

There was additional interest in the clash with former Scarborough goalkeeper Kevin Blackwell in charge of Nakhon Ratchasima. His grey hair must have gone white as his side put in what was a generally hapless display as we stood behind the goal. 

After lots of possession and missed opportunities, Port eventually went ahead just past the half-hour mark through Bordin Phala. Visiting defender Charlie Clough was taking plenty of banter from some of the expats in the home end and was giving as good as he got.

At the interval, we returned to our table that was waiting and reserved for us, with our drinks arriving quicker than for those who were queuing over the fence. We ensured that a tip was left for our helpful assistant.

 

The second half was typical Port. On top but slowly defending deeper and inviting pressure. I would have had a decent bet on them conceding, but a woeful Korat team could not take advantage. Hamilton put the game to bed with four minutes remaining.

The couple staying in town suggested we hung around and took advantage of such a welcome as we sat down once again for a couple more beers before we waved farewell while Gary and I headed back to Minburi by taxi.

Port 2 Nongbua Pitchaya 1 (Sunday 19^th February 2019) Thai League 1 (att: 4,451) 

My life was moving on at full pace, with it being likely that this would be my last chance of a home game for some time, with so much future time to be spent in the northeast of Thailand. I was determined to make the most of it.

The ideal day after a lie in commenced with an early lunch chim chum at one of our favourite alfresco restaurants in Lam Lu Ka, with Taew’s sister and family. The food was top class as ever before I was dropped on the main road ready to have fun. 

A minivan dropped me at Khu Khot BTS station from where travel was still free as far as Mo Chit. I took full advantage by taking it all the way to Ha Yaek Lat Phrao where I swapped to the MRT a short walk away at Phahon Yothin where the subway took me to Phra Ram 9.

I needed some electrical equipment, and I had read that Fortune Town was the place to go. I got one item and met with Port pal, Marco before returning to the train to get out at Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre.

 

We were early enough, so we wandered past Khlong Toei Market to visit Big C before wandering to PAT Stadium to grab our 50 Baht tickets, which were exceptional value. Within minutes we were enjoying the same excellent hospitality as my previous visit.

The fan zone had really upped its game in this department, and there was a real carnival atmosphere around the place. The staff set us up a table, which was handily placed near a table of locals, where one played old indie and Britpop classics, which set the mood perfectly.

It seemed a shame to have to go into the game, such fun we had, chatting with other Port fans, drinking, and listening to the music. We headed to Zone D as Port unusually kicked towards the east end of the ground in the first half.

The first half was a familiar story to the regulars. Lots of possession, far too many passes and frustration as the opponents packed their defence. Coach Matt Holland had been given the heave-ho after he had replaced Scott Cooper but not much had changed.

The new men at the helm, ideally without the intervention of owner Madame Pang, were Choketawee Promrut and Surapong Kongthep, who continued to try and fit all the players in, rather than picking the best formation and upsetting one or two.

Shortly before halftime a shot from the visitors Leon James came back off the post with keeper Somporn Yos motionless. However, the effort had hit the arm of Thiti Thumporn on the way through. After consultation with VAR, referee Warintron Sassadee pointed to the spot, where Alvin Fortes made no mistake. 

After a beer and the usual chunter, we swapped ends, as I managed to get to the back among locals intent on getting behind the team. Port probed and manufactured a great opportunity when Pakorn Prempak got to the byline and crossed only for Bordin Phala to head wide with the goal gaping with fifteen minutes remaining.

Five minutes later, a deep corner was headed down resulting in a scramble. The ball landed at the feet of Hamilton who cleverly put the ball home among the mayhem. The cheers had hardly died down when Port scored what would be the winner.

A quick short corner saw Martin Steuble put in a cross that the unmarked Teerasak Poeiphimai headed in at the near post. The place went berserk, and for the closing minutes the hosts were a different side, Hamilton suddenly becoming unplayable.

The celebrations continued outside. I was asked to join the table where the excellent DJ and his gang shared beers with me as we made friends. I tried speaking my limited Thai, but I was told by the selector of songs that it would be easier if we spoke in English! A video can be enjoyed here.

He had learned his music from working and studying in Oxford, London, and Eastbourne. His lovely wife arrived after a couple of beers. I video-called Taew to let her know I was OK during several of the singsongs that ensued before it was time for a taxi home. 

A fantastic day out, but I knew about it the following day, especially during the long drive to Sisaket.

Port FC 2 BG Pathum United 3 (Saturday 2nd December 2023) Thai League 1 (att: 5,862)

An astonishing match at the PAT Stadium in Khlong Toei, and right up there with anything I’ve ever seen in the Land of Smiles as the third-placed hosts took a 2-0 lead before the second-placed visitors scored three times in the final fifteen minutes to snatch victory.

There was nothing between the sides in the opening exchanges, though if anything BGPU looked the more likely side to break the deadlock with Sarach Yooyen pulling the strings in midfield. Suphanan Bureerat put Port ahead after twenty-seven minutes, cutting in inside the box to beat keeper Kittipong Poothawchuek at his near post with a low drive.

The lead was doubled five minutes later by Pakorn Parmpak whose drive was deflected over the stranded goalie, but not before the home side had a shot handled near the goal line. Surely VAR was ready and waiting to intervene if the later shot hadn’t gone in. 

Charlie Clough at the heart of the Port defence was putting in a real shift, while custodian Samporn Yos pulled off a couple of top stops before the break. After the interval, BGPU intensified their play gradually, while Port relied on sporadic breaks. 

Some home fans blamed the tactics of coach Rangsan Vivatchaichok in his first home game in charge, but his side was up against quality opposition in my opinion. Sometimes you just have to hold your hands up in such cases.

I was recording live snippets to be edited for our Podcast and said with twenty minutes to go that either side could win. Eventually, Pathum pulled a goal back through a howitzer from the edge of the box from Freddy Alvarez. The pressure continued to mount. In the end, it was a VAR decision that created the equaliser. 

Nobody had any real idea what it was for, but once again a Thai controller was desperate to make themselves noticed. Teerasil Dangda slotted home the spot kick. The legendary veteran scored the winner when he collected a low cross on the edge of the box. 

The video report for A Thai Football Podcast

He used all his skill, before bending an absolute beauty into the top corner in the fourth of seven minutes additional time. He is still the best player in Thailand, and I never tire of watching him. It also helped that it was a brilliant day surrounding the match. 

My wife accompanied me as we were meeting friends still over from Chiang Mai cricket the previous weekend. Dave, an Aussie who supports AFC Wimbledon and his good lady Michele lives in Hull. We had lunch near Asoke at Suda Restaurant where our guests rated the food more highly than Taew.

There was time for another beer at Buddy's Bar & Grill, a pleasant enough American-style establishment on the end of Soi 20, before taking a cab to the stadium. Our driver tried taking us to the main entrance, maybe thinking we were VIP but I soon put him right.

Our friends loved every minute of the fans’ experience outside with the many food and drink stalls, all at cheaper than ordinary bar prices. As Michele said, “it’s just like Hull fair without the rides!” It is the best fan zone in the country and Bangkok’s best beer garden on a matchday, again in my opinion. 

I’d contacted my local friend from my previous visit in the morning, and he said a stall owner would queue for our tickets to ensure we didn’t have any inconvenience and were guaranteed to get in. The match was just about sold out. There was a 50 Baht surcharge on each one, but we considered it money well spent.

Inside, totally by chance we were in with those we’d been drinking with. It was as raucous an atmosphere as I had been in at the PAT. Real passion, old school abuse of opponents and officials, with my life smiling wryly at some of the insults being hurled. 

We returned after the game to the fan zone for more music, beer, and snacks, making more friends along the way. Home by 11pm, totally knackered and ready for a good kip before our internal flight back to Isan the following morning.

Port 1 Trat 0 (Saturday 24th February 2024) Thai League 1 (att: 4,118) 

A lovely weekend in the centre of the capital meeting up with a group of mates from Scarborough who were over on a short break as well as catching up with other friends near to our Minburi condo earlier in the week.

The match itself was entertaining enough fare, with the visitors second from bottom and Port in third going into the game. After a slow start, the home side got their act together and put a lot of pressure on the Trat defence. Bordin missed a sitter before Pathompon scored what would turn out to be the only goal after nineteen minutes.

Trat recovered after what looked like it might have to be a case of damage limitation following the goal and put together some good moves of their own, with Lidor Cohen a handful upfront. After the interval, huge gaps appeared at either end on a hot evening. 

Somporn in the home net pulled off a couple of saves, one an amazing one-handed stop while a visiting player missed a sitter and found the outside of the post. The hosts were guilty of over-elaborating on several occasions while there was always a chance of the away side snatching a point. It wasn’t to be. 

Opposite centre backs, Charlie Clough for Port and Jorge Filippe for Trat, both had excellent games with their reading of things and putting to use their huge physical presence.

As ever the match was just part of the experience. Officially a Buddha Day in Thailand with the sale of alcohol strictly prohibited, so my local contact gave us the beer outside in the fans zone as a gift and I transferred him the cash later. Fair to say my guests enjoyed the experience with the food stalls, enjoying brisk trade from some of them. 

I had managed to sort a Grab minibus to the stadium from the hotel which made life immeasurably easier as my wife and perplexed driver sat in the front without a hope of deciphering the chat in the back. I struggled at times to be fair.

The three Scarborough Athletic directors were astonished at the lack of health and safety regulations both inside and outside the stadium when recalling some of the hoops the club had to jump through for a license and meet league regulations. Thank goodness we have no graders here and people act in a way so that they don’t put others at risk. It’s a huge help. 

It’s probably as well that I took them to one of the better venues in the Thai League. Several complained about sore behinds after sitting on metal steps for the match. They must be getting soft on the North Yorkshire Riviera.

No booze in the bars in town so we hung around for ninety minutes to finish off supplies and so that I could finish stuff for the weekly Thai Football Podcast while shirts were swapped between a couple of fans and following a scarf been given to our chief host and DJ. 

Back in town, it was quite amusing to see lots of sober farang cuddling a coke or water while watching the 3pm games from England. It gave Taew and me a good excuse to head off to our hotel, which was not our original booking, but which we were upgraded to owing to issues at our original choice.

Sunday morning, Andy and I did a 10km walk in the city, followed by lunch and beers with my fair lady in The Sportsman and then an excellent meal in TK in Terminal 21 on Sukhumvit. I knew that a big night was ahead so I ate plentifully!

A surprise was in store for Taew after cocktails in a wonderful Salvador Dali inspired wine bar, as we were treated to a couple of bottles of top-quality red wine on the forty-ninth-floor open-air rooftop bar with Andy offering his best wishes on our married life.

As the sun set over the City of Angels, it was as close to perfect as possible, with the DJ knowing exactly what feel-good tunes should be played for that atmosphere. Later we headed for a lively late evening in an entertainment zone while catching up with the others, some on their first visit to the city who fell instantly in love with it.

The eight-hour train journey back to Sisaket on Monday morning was not a thing of beauty. All worth it, and another brilliant weekend with football and great company. I was alerted to our posse being on the live TV coverage at the match and I managed to grab a screenshot on the app when we returned home.