Thonburi Stadium (Bangkok)

Thonburi Stadium is a venue in the Bang Phai district of Thonburi, in the east of the Thai capital of Bangkok. It is predominantly used as the home stadium of Thonburi United in the Thai League.

Some of its funding and maintenance was and sometimes still is paid for by the Thai FA who use the venue to stage neutral games.

My visits

Thonburi United 1 North Bangkok University 1 (Monday 10th January 2022) Thai League 3 Bangkok (att: c200)

To read a description of a rare Monday afternoon fixture, click here.

Samutsakhon City 1 FC Bangsaotong 0 (Saturday 4th June 2022) Thailand Amateur League Bangkok Perimeter Final (att: c350) 

I had earlier visited this fine venue for a Thonburi United home game, but this occasion had considerably more resting on it. In short, the victors would be promoted to the professional ranks for the following season as a Thai League 3 club.

I had prepared in fine style having met up with a former New Zealand Test cricketer the previous evening and enjoyed a very sociable few hours around Sukhumvit in the capital. After breakfast, I took the MRT right around the final stop at Bang Khae where I had a break in the aircon mall, being ahead of schedule.

A bus took me to Nongkhaem District Office from where I crossed the road and bought some beers at the 7/11 for the match. I then took the walk, which was longer than I estimated along Soi Phet Kasem 110. I wasn’t upset to see the floodlights as I turned the final bend.

In the main stand, I sat next to a fellow Englishman whose son was on the bench for FCB. Samutsakhon were backed by a couple of busloads of supporters and had the more experienced side, with some former T3 players in their ranks and were coached by Chanyut Pongpanomwet. 

I had skin in the game as I’d followed FCB through the course of the competition and was friends with their coach Jamie Clarke. His side always played lots of nice football but could sometimes over-elaborate. They were a young outfit, and their lack of nous would prove to be one of their undoing’s on the big occasion.

Their keeper, Chaiyasit Phetrangsee, seemed to have caught a case of the nerves, while the forwards including Kuatrakul Kwankua didn’t really get going, with City goalie Wichan Manmueang hardly having a shot to save despite FCB having plenty of the ball in the final third. 

The goal was highly contentious, to say the least. Even more so after watching replays of the game online later. A low shot from just outside the box was touched onto the post by Chaiyasit. Plchet Inbang followed up to put the ball away. Images would later reveal he was clearly offside.

Samutsakhon’s elder players knew how to close the game out. Their custodian Wichan had to go off with an injury soon into the second half. His deputy Aekkachai Srisaengchan coped well and was protected by his defence. In the end, just one goal was enough to win promotion. 

The Samutsakhon City players quite rightly celebrated in style with supporters on the pitch after the final whistle and trophy presentation. Bangsatong’s boys were in pieces. It was really sad to experience. All good lads, with their dreams of being pros for their team written off.

Samutsakhon had been heavily backed by their local authority, one of which was connected to the Thai FA. As someone in an official capacity at FCB said, there was no way City were going to be beaten. It’s not a great way to secure promotion. 

Jamie had some beers with me and was understandably as dejected as his players. One of whom Adam Mather went back in the taxi with us. Jamie’s regular driver obligingly stopped at a 7/11 for cans before depositing us at the Sportsman on Sukhumvit 13.

Some other lads who played for FCB in the Bangkok Premier League were in there celebrating after playing for Siam Celtic who had won their Bangkok Casuals League final. No foreigners were permitted to play in the Thailand Amateur League. 

A couple of beers in, I got a message from Taew at her restaurant in Minburi telling me Thai friends had arrived and wanted to drink with me. The price of fame! I said my farewells, caught a taxi, and left the others to it.

 

Thonburi Stadium (Bangkok)

 

Thonburi Stadium is a football venue in Thonburi, on the western extremes of the Thai capital of Bangkok. It is one sided for spectator viewing, with an excellent raised seated stand down the full length of one side.

The ground is a couple of kilometers along Soi Phet Kasem 110 away from the main thoroughfare in the Nong Khaem district of Thonburi. It is sometimes called Thonburi University Stadium, to reflect its owners.

Thai League side Rajpracha FC used the stadium from 2018 for a couple of years, alongside anchor tenants Thonburi United who were in situ as a Thailand Amateur League club from 2016 before their promotion to the Thai League in 2019.

Thonburi Stadium is also used on several occasions by the Thai FA for representative games and as a neutral venue for cup games.

My visits

Thonburi United 1 North Bangkok University 1 (Monday 10th January 2022) Thai League 3 Bangkok Perimeter (att: c200)

Read here about my visit to watch the permanent tenants in a home league game.

Samutsakhon City 1 FC Bangsaotong 0 (Saturday 4^th June 2022) Thailand Amateur League Bangkok Perimeter Final (att: c350)

I must declare an interest in my reporting of this game. I had become mates with FC Bangsaotong coach Jamie Clarke, so I attended as a fan. I know how much hard work had gone in at the club on and off the pitch in their quest for promotion to Thai League 3.

I’d missed what was in effect the semi-final the previous week, when FCB defeated Bangkapi FC on penalties. However, the scheduling of this final worked out perfectly for me, despite the venue being a bit out of the way. 

The previous evening, I decided to stay downtown in Sukhumvit as I’d arranged drinks with Gary Robertson, an old cricket pal from the Chiang Mai International Cricket Sixes. A great night was had as we watched bits of the England v New Zealand Test match. I was in perfect company as Gary has played a Test and several ODI’s for the Kiwis.

It a bit like a Saturday football day back in the UK as I tucked into a full English breakfast before pottering about and then taking the MRT all the way to Bang Khae, the closest station to the match.

Running ahead of time, the shopping mall adjacent to the station filled in time in the air con, which I often use as a filler on my travels. As it was my second visit I knew exactly how to get to the ground and how long I’d need.

The number 80 bus dropped me at Nongkhaem District Office, from where I crossed the footbridge to begin the walk along Soi 110. I had come well prepared. I knew the stadium didn’t have a bar, so I’d bought a cool bag earlier in the week to take my own booze.

It was at this point I made my first error, buying a big bag of ice to put on the cans already in the bag, figuring it might be the last 7/11 I saw on the walk. How little I knew, as I passed numerous stores on the 40-minute walk. 

It was a very warm afternoon, so I was relieved when the floodlights and stand came into view after a right turn. After taking a few photos I headed upstairs to the section of the stand where the FCB supporters were gathering.

From reading the Samutsakhon Facebook page it was obvious that they would have the larger support. They were really going for it, providing a free supporters bus. Social media can sometimes be misleading, but they looked a well organised club with good backing.

Kevin, a father of one of the fringe Bangsaotong squad was at the top of the seating. We had a good chat about football and Thailand. It is always good to listen and learn from someone who has a good knowledge from many years living in Bangkok. 

Finally, it was time for the match. It was given the full treatment as if it was a League 3 game, with its 3.30pm kick-off and standing to attention for the Kings Anthem. A huge occasion, with it possibly being the biggest game some of those out there would ever play in.

Like many games with so much riding on it, play was scrappy and nervy in the early stages. FCB were trying to put together their short passing game but found themselves up against savvy opponents.

The team in white did get that fine passing into gear when a lovely slide rule ball from Chaiyong Pearpong put in Kuatrakul Kwankwua. He beat goalkeeper Wichan Manmueang but defender Sarayut Kongkool managed to get back to clear the ball off the line.

At the other end, FCB keeper Chaiyasit Phetrangsee didn’t seem his usual calm self as he flapped at a couple of crosses. Perhaps the occasion? The jury was definitely out when the studs of City’s Woramate Soonamporn landed on the head of Bangsaotong’s Aphasit Wankham following a challenge.

Soonamporn proved all afternoon to be a no-nonsense midfielder alongside colleague Phoriphat Yangphraraksa. Referee Pichit Thongjanmoon was extremely benevolent to keep his cards in his pocket for this initial offence, on what was an inconsistent showing by the official.

The heavy City challenges continued to go in. Aphichai Koplmpa was felled by a horrible lunge by Thanawat Buranakiti which resulted in a caution. The vastly experienced former Thai League 1 player Pichit Inbang was doing a fine job up front for Samutsakhon.

Yes, scorer Imbang, far right, is definitely offside when the initial shot comes in

 

On eighteen minutes City’s Rewat Meerian cut inside with his low shot hitting the post and rebounding onto the legs of diving goalie Phetrangsee. The ball ran loose to Imbing who fired home. Later images showed him at least a metre offside when the initial shot was struck.

Adam Mather, the FCB had a decent afternoon marking the wily Imbang, but there wasn’t a lot that could be done on this occasion. It was a match defining moment. The Tigers could sit back and use their experience to soak up pressure and deny their quicker opponents any space in behind the defence.

Pearpong did extremely well to get to the byline and pull back a low cross which was fired over by an under pressure FCB teammate. Yangphraraksa nearly doubled the lead with a deflected shot that screamed narrowly wide just past the half hour mark.

Phetrangsee did just enough to keep out a dipping free kick from Suksamran Prangthong before Kplmpa went down in the box for FCB. I am pretty sure that VAR would have been interested in a second look if it had been in operation.

 

A free header in the box following a long free kick from Samutsakhon’s Weerachai Ratcharin went perilously close to the net as the half neared its end. All was to play for in the second half as the two contrasting styles clashed.

Experienced goalie Manmueang went down for a second time holding his knee shortly after the restart. He was replaced by Aakkachai Arlaaengchan. Surely this would benefit FCB as the former stopper looked a calming influence.

Kwankwua showed his displeasure at being on the receiving end of another poor challenge with little referee protection. A fine Bagsaotong move from the resulting free kick ended with Jiramet Dalunphan volleying over. 

The same player scuffed a shot wide after more excellent passing. However, the City defence were disciplined and were restricting how near to goal FCB could get. Kplmpa was continuing to create problems out wide on the right in a good performance.

More poor handling from Phetrangsee saw him drop a cross. From the ensuing melee, Yangphraraksa saw his effort deflected narrowly wide. To compound the Qon’s misery a silly lunging challenge from Kongpop Sangsewi saw him receive a second yellow card and his marching orders.

Not for the first time the City players used up every second and opportunity to run down the clock with a lesson in game management. It was excruciating watching when wanting an equaliser, but credit to them. This was an important game.

In the final minute of additional time, Pearpong went down under a challenge in the box. I was a long way from the incident but have certainly seen penalties awarded for less. It simply wasn’t going to be Bangsaotong’s day.

Samutsakhon hung on and celebrated their promotion to Thai League 3 with their fans in the stand and the ultras over on the far side. They would be a fine addition to the pro ranks, as would FCB. City had influential connections and finance. Full credit to them on their victory, no matter the legitimacy of the winning goal.

The Thailand Amateur League had offered me plenty of entertainment with a real mixture of recreational teams through to clubs with infrastructures ready for the big leagues. I thought the group stages could have been spread out a little, though credit to the organisers as it looked like the whole thing was about to be scrapped because of Covid.

I hung around outside the gate to the changing rooms. I understand some will get it, but to see several of the young lads in the defeated side in absolute bits with the friends and parents was heartbreaking.

The images of goalie Phetrangsee crying in his mothers’ arms through the gates will live with me for a very long time. A lad who'd had a great season seeing his dreams ruined. Along with thoughts for the coaches and players who invest time, effort, emotions and make major sacrifices in the hope of making a career in the game.

I know I can be too quick to be critical of players in sport getting paid what I consider too much, but in reality, most of us are not or at least weren’t good enough to lace their boots. Sometimes modern attitudes aren’t the best and I believe many youngsters are pampered, but they can certainly play.

I just wish some would learn to shoot and accept they’re not always going to get immediate rewards that will come with hard work. I hope plenty of those on show get another opportunity down the line.

Jamie Clarke invited me through to the pitchside for a chat and then some beers while the Samutsakhon players and supporters continued their celebrations taking photo memories of their great day.

Adam Mather joined us for a drink before Jamie offered me a lift with his regular taxi driver who’d stayed for the match. Beers from 7/11 helped the ride back. Before I knew it I was in The Sportsman on Soi 11 just up the road from where I’d had breakfast.

The players of Siam Celtic, including a couple of FCB lads were celebrating their cup win in the Bangkok Casuals League. After a couple of beers I said my farewells and headed back to Minburi for a singsong with friends old and new in my local bar. A long and emotional day was had by all.

My brief video of the day can be seen here.

Thaispirit FC

 

Thaispirit FC is an amateur football club formed in 2014 in the Thai capital of Bangkok who describe themselves in 2022 as a small club with a goal in football. Their primary aim to give junior development through their many aged group sides through to their adult team.

Spirit funded a party to participate in the Gothia Cup in Sweden for international youth sides along with other international tours. Thaispirit open age team competes in the Thailand Amateur and Thonburi Leagues.

The club has a base at Soi Yothin Phattana 3 in the Bang Kapi District of the city with a couple of smaller sized pitches under the chairmanship of Grandma Dawan Nakhirunkanok. The adult side compete in the Thonburi League based at Sampaosan Stadium, a few miles away.

In the 2022 Thailand Amateur League, Spirit finished top of Bangkok Group F, with one of the games can be read about here, before leaving the competition on penalties to Ramkhamheang University in the first knockout round.

The side led by head coach Thanapol Kaewruang found some consolation a few weeks later, when they won the Thonburi League Cup with a fine display against Yungthong United, which can be read about here.

Thaispirit FC will play in the Thonburi League in the 2022-23 season.

My visits

Sampaosan Stadium

Thaispirit FC 5 Muangkrung FC 3 (Sunday 10th July 2022) Thonburi League East Zone (att: c50) 

Id enjoyed watching spirit lift the Thonburi League Cup a few weeks earlier and wanted to see them again. The opening round of the new Thonburi League season was an ideal opportunity, what with the club using a venue not too far from home.

Sunday arrived with me sporting a huge hangover following a friends’ birthday party at my local bar. At least she had enjoyed a happy birthday! Under normal circumstances, I’d have been tempted to walk to the ground, but there wasn’t a chance on this occasion.

 

A taxi dropped me just round the corner as I arrived ten minutes or so before the 4pm kick off. Grabbing some soft drinks and a bag of peanuts, which included herbs and chili powder I took up a seat under the cover in the corner.

Sampaosan had two pitches, with some shelter between them across the far side. Behind where I sat were changing facilities and toilets with the roof forming a overhand shelter for its seats. At right angles was an open fronted street food establishment where some fans chose to sit.

There was no accommodation for spectators down the roadside of the ground, and not really anything dedicated behind the goals. However, flat areas atop the natural banking proved a good vantage point that some took advantage of in cars and their own fold up seats.

Bangkapi FC were over on the second pitch as they took apart DMF FC in a 3pm kick-off. Meanwhile, the two young sides representing Thaispirit and Muangkrung were warming up ready for their clash on the wider expansive playing surface. 

As the game got underway the maintenance team of the venue decided that using an electric drill and hammer to put up shelves on the wall behind me was a good idea. My head didn’t think so. Fortunately, it was a relatively quick job.

Spirit carried on where they’d left off from when I’d seen them last with a high pressure, fast passing game that was pleasing on the eye. They came close twice in quick succession to taking the lead. 

It therefore came as a bit of a shock when the away side in a snazzy yellow and black kit took the lead midway through the half. A wide free kick looked harmless enough, but it snuck past the keeper and in at the far post.

To try to drum up atmosphere, Thaispirit had a couple of large flags while crowd noises and chants were played down speakers. Whether it assisted them, I don’t know, but they were soon level.

 

An indirect free kick was tapped to one side, where number 21 hammered it into the top corner from around twenty-five yards. Number 7 for the ‘hosts’ squandered a great chance to put his team ahead, but he missed an open goal after the Muangkrung goalie had parried a low free kick.

The same player was then denied by the stopper when put in by teammate 21. It was the scorer of the equalizer who sent his team in at half time in front when he collected a short corner and fired in a screamer into the roof of the net to make it 2-1. 

It had been an excellent first half and the quality and entertainment was in abundance again after the interval. A cross from Spirits’ 8 was net by the man wearing 6, but the visiting custodian once again pulled off a good save.

Muangkrung were more than playing their part in the affair as they restored parity. Their 17 was played through before he rounded the goalie to score. This seemed to ignite the Spirit players further as they quickly restored their lead.

Skipper and man-of-the-match 21 fed in substitute 26 who scored with a low shot across the keeper into the far corner. The lead was extended to 4-2 through an own goal when the yellow sides’ 45 tried to clear while under pressure on the six-yard line.

There had been some fine individual goals but the effort that made it 5-2 oozed quality and exemplified Spirits’ all-round team play. 26 got to the byline and dragged back a beautiful low cross which was converted at the back post by 10. 

Muangkrung’s players continued to battle as great skill from their number 18 nearly created a goal. Spirit responded with number 28 being denied by the feet of the Krung custodian who had put in a fine performance.

The away side got a goal back that their performance merited as their 23 capitalized on a defensive error to sidestep the home goalkeeper and score. It was nearly 5-4 when 30 hit the bar with free kick.

I thoroughly enjoyed the match and even felt a little bit more like returning to the land of the living by the end. I took a walk to Thanon Khubon where I just missed the 197 bus to Minburi. A taxi soon had me back for a few drinks and lovely meal back in my favourite bolthole.

Thaispirit 0 FC Bangsaotong 2 (Sunday 14^th August 2022) Thonburi League East Zone (att: c60)

My choices were varied for the afternoon. I could try and fit in a game or head straight to Khlong Toei where I was going to the 7pm kick off between Port FC and Lamphun Warriors. Then this Thonburi League game with a 3pm start appeared on Facebook.

It worked perfectly as I was to be joined by my Australian cricket friend Vaughan McClear who had been asking to be kept in touch about when I was going to a local game. I took the 26 bus along Ram Inthra and walked up Soi Kubon to the match.

My mate arrived with his son Pat in time for us to grab a beer and wander round to the covered tents near the players. As I was becoming a regular face with the Bagsaotong fraternity we were fine to get seats and sit near the subs.

 

I knew that we would get a good game of football played properly by two decent sides and fortunately I was proved correct. FCB played too much football in the first half and over-elaborated when shooting was the best option around the box.

Head coach Jamie Clarke certainly was of the same opinion doing his rocker as the second chance was spurned. At the other end the visiting defence marshalled by Adam Mather and Lee Hall were doing a fine job keeping the enthusiastic Spirit forwards at bay. 

Spirits keeper then made an amazing fingertip save redirecting the ball onto the bar when a Qons forward did get his shot away. The hosts had occasional forays as the first half continued up until the interval.

Having a wander round to the facilities at the break I received some smiles and nice words from one of the home coaches warming up the subs on spotting my Port shirt. A perfect example of why I loved my life in Thailand.

FCB took the lead somewhat fortuitously not long into the second half. Kuatrakul Kwankua broke through but delayed his shot. The referee however, decided that he had been fouled. To compel the misery for Spirit the offender was shown a second yellow card and was dismissed.

Kwankua picked himself up to score from the spot. The home keeper was helpless but he then performed further heroics to push over a vicious shot that drew widespread applause from both benches and sets of fans.

 

We were walking round to have another beer near the covered area in the far corner when the lead was doubled. A low shot took a bit of a bobble to escape the otherwise faultless goalie who was angry with his efforts.

At full time Vaughan kindly drove me back through Bangkok and dropped my ten minutes from PAT Stadium with time for me to enjoy food and drink. A great start to the football day. If only my second match was as entertaining!