body { background: #000 !important; color: #fff !important; } .post-body, .post-body p, .post-body div { background: transparent !important; color: #fff !important; }

Thai Football Fever is an independent archive of football grounds, clubs and matchday experiences from across Thailand.

Since going to my first game in Thailand in 2010, I've travelled the country watching football at every level, documenting each visit with my own photographs, research and first-hand experiences.

Whether you're planning a football trip, researching a club or simply interested in the Thai game, I hope this growing collection helps you discover another side of football in Thailand.

Showing posts with label International Football. Show all posts
Showing posts with label International Football. Show all posts

Sunday, 16 August 2026

Thai Football 2026/27: What to Expect from the New Season


It doesn’t matter where a football fan is located around the world. The arrival of a new season brings expectation, excitement and hope, and supporters in Thailand are no different. This year, however, they have to wait slightly longer for domestic football to get underway, with the Thailand national team involved in the ASEAN Championship.

So what is in store in 2026-27?

The Thunder Castle Chang Arena in Buriram


Buriram United Dominance

Those who follow club football in Thailand to any degree know that Buriram United is the dominant side. The Isan outfit has a powerful owner and is streets ahead of the competition in terms of merchandise, their stadium, training facilities, recruitment and the cash they invest. In a nutshell, they are based on successful European operations rather than using a scattergun approach generally favoured by their rivals.

Since becoming Buriram United, the club has collected 10 league titles in the last 13 years. They have won Thai League 1 for the last 5 seasons. They have won 4 FA Cups in the last 5 years, as well as the League Cup 3 times during the same period.

Therefore, it will be no shock that I predict they will continue to win the league and the cups. Their performances lead to competing in AFC Asian competitions, where big money is earned, so the cycle continues.

BG Stadium, Pathum Thani

A Competitive League

However, if you take away Buriram, the rest of the league is extremely competitive. There are some good teams like Port FC and Bangkok United, and the occasional well-run club such as Ratchaburi and BG Pathum United.

There is excitement in my part of the world as both Rasisalai United and Sisaket United won promotion to the elite level of the Thai League last season. The big shock was when former dominant club Muangthong United went in the opposite direction and will be looking to make a swift return.

Who goes down and is replaced by who sees fans discussing endlessly on social media, with Facebook packed with pages of supporters' groups across the country, along with others who spread news that is often little more than unsubstantiated rumours. If you need information about matches and the clubs, then Facebook or Line is the place to look in Thailand.

Pre-Match Ambience at Port FC


How to Attend Matches

Attendances at matches continue to show positive signs of improvement. Going to a game is still an excellent few hours out, with all sections of the community having fun. The tickets are easily available; they are relatively inexpensive, and the whole experience means that even if the game is poor, the time spent isn’t wasted.

Most stadiums have vendors outside selling food and beer, with chairs and tables laid out. The prices are comparable to local bars and restaurants, sometimes even cheaper, rather than the exploitation of fans that often goes on in the UK. Supporters often play local music outside, adding to the atmosphere. It’s a great place to meet people and make friends.

The atmosphere inside the stadiums can be extremely vibrant, with passionate home supporters often giving match officials feedback. Yet, it is extremely rare to see animosity between opposition supporters. In my experience, they are more likely to want to talk and drink with you.

Breadcrumbed Chicken on a Stick  - A Thai Stadium Classic


How to Watch at Home

For those who cannot get to a game, AIS, a communications company, has a contract to show all games in the 3 divisions live, as well as most cup matches. Those who subscribe can watch on their mobile devices, while those who have an AIS Wi-Fi connection can view the action on their TVs via a box.

Madame Pang

The FA President Nualphan Lamsam, usually referred to by her nickname, Madame Pang, has done many good things since her appointment to the role. BYD has become the league sponsor, and Chang beer is the name associated with the FA Cup, while Mueang Thai Life Insurance sponsors two other cups.

She negotiated the TV deal that assists clubs throughout the 3 national divisions with their finances. Better governance, administration, and discipline throughout Thai football have been introduced, with clubs required to reach higher standards. The Under-21 League has also grown in numbers this season. The League launch is now a big event that gains increased publicity.

Yes, some things could be improved in Thai football, but much of that responsibility lies with the clubs. They need to be better communicators with supporters, telling them the news, whether it is good or bad. They need to improve their facilities, upgrade stadiums and build infrastructure rather than spending cash on short-term foreign signings, some of whom flatter to deceive.

Dragon Solar Park - Ratchaburi

National Team Improvement

The Thai national team are showing signs of improvement too, with Madame Pang playing her part by persuading some of those with dual passports, who play in leagues elsewhere, to choose Thailand. Head coach Anthony Hudson is building a decent team despite an understrength outfit falling short in the recent ASEAN Championships.

They will compete in the 4-team King’s Cup in Sisaket in November and then the AFC Championships against the best of Asia in Saudi Arabia next year. By the end of the season, supporters will know much more about the progress made by their national heroes.

Matchday Fun


A Closing Round-Up

So, in closing, while Buriram United will more than likely lift all 3 major domestic trophies once more, along with the Shopee Cup, the Southeast Asian championship, there is much to look forward to.

New teams are looking to make their mark in Thai League 1, established old hands want to return to former glories, and the Thailand national team could reach new levels.

And best of all, those who want to go to matches can do so, having an inexpensive day, enjoying food and drink with friends old and new and taking in a fantastic atmosphere, so even if the game is poor, the time is never wasted.

My Video Preview of the New Season


Friday, 12 June 2026

BG Stadium (Bangkok)



Ground: BG Stadium
Capacity: 15,114
Opened: 2010
Club: BG Pathum United

BG Stadium, the home of BG Pathum United, is considered one of the best football venues in Thailand, often used as a neutral ground for cup semi-finals and finals, along with hosting national team games.

This page is dedicated to its background and when it stages games as a neutral venue. The history of BG Pathum United and my first visits is covered elsewhere, as are the home matches I have attended from 2022.



Stadium Background

For many years, the stadium was famous for being three-sided before the East Stand was constructed and opened in 2024. It also had an artificial pitch for several seasons. The stadium stands inside the grounds of Bangkok Glass Public Company Limited.

When opened, the home club was known as Bangkok Glass FC. The venue was known as Leo Stadium for a time. In later years, True BG Stadium. The complex has a football training centre, BG Hall, an indoor arena, and The Rabbits Bar & Restaurant. 

My Neutral Game at BG Stadium

Thailand 1 Suriname 0 
Friendly - Sunday 27th March 2022
👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 4,418 🎟️ 100 THB (£2.40)

I'd been to Chonburi Stadium the previous Thursday for the Thailand national team match against Nepal. I was delighted to be cheering on my adopted nation once again. I had learned what I thought was the best way to the stadium by public transport after heading to a game at nearby North Bangkok University the previous weekend.

I changed buses at Wat Phra Sri Mahathat to catch a service to Zeer Rangsit, where I grabbed some food and drink. I waited some time before the busy 538 air-conditioned bus arrived. It dropped me right outside the stadium.


I bought a ticket for the normal home end and was soon upstairs on the top deck. It was great for plane spotters but not vertigo sufferers, especially as you needed to be at the back to see the near goal. I didn’t really enjoy it, if truth be told, despite the dramatic view.

The Ultras made the near goal even harder to see when they arrived with their flags. They made a proper noise at the same time. The Thai Power fan group was at the other end. Bordin Phala had Thailand's first effort, but keeper Warner Hahn easily gathered his low shot.


This was before Hahn produced a good low save to keep out Suphanat Mueanta, who then had a low near-post volley disallowed for offside. At this point, I moved downstairs a level to the middle tier, where I felt more comfortable.

The hosts were playing some neat football, with Suriname having their backs to the wall. Theerathon Boonmatan was next to go close, with a bending free kick. Bordin opened the scoring three minutes shy of the half-hour mark when he came inside and fired in a curling shot from twenty-five yards.


Head coach Alexandré Pölking had his charges playing well, and they were on a fine run since being crowned Southeast Asian champions. But Suriname hadn’t turned up to sightsee. They nearly drew level when Leandro Kappel dragged his shot across the goal shortly into the second half.

Kritsada Kaman went close with a free kick for the Thais before keeper Sivaruk Tedsungnoen made a miraculous save from sub Jeredy Hilterman, who really should have scored from the low cross.

A video from my visit
Many more Thai football videos on Rob’s Roving Sports Report


The visitors continued to create chances. Tjaronn Chery was found on the edge of the box in acres of space. Sivaruk saved his low shot. In the end, the home side won 1-0. It was now time to plan my trip home. I crossed the bridge, where a minivan was waiting to take fans back to Victory Monument. 

I decided to bite the bullet and jump out at Lak Si, failing desperately to estimate my stop. I ended up walking a long way along Thanon Chaeng Watthana back to the stop at the end of Ram Inthra near Wat Phra Sri Mahathat BTS. A 26 bus was soon along to take me home.



Wednesday, 10 June 2026

Chonburi Stadium (Chonburi)



Ground: Chonburi Daikin Stadium
Capacity: 8,680
Opened: 2010

Chonburi Stadium, also known as Chonburi Daikin Stadium, is a multi-purpose venue that opened in 2010. It is used primarily by Chonburi FC, whom I went to see in action, as well as staging occasional international games and the semi-finals of cup competitions.

My Visits

Chonburi 1 TOT SC 1
Thai Premier League - Sunday 2nd November 2014
👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 7,666 🎟️ 200 THB (£4.80)

What was a remarkable occasion can be read about on the Chonburi FC page.

Thailand 2 Nepal 0 
Friendly - Thursday 24th March 2022
👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 3,386 🎟️ 100 THB (£2.40)


Now living in Thailand, I wanted to cheer on the national team, especially as I fancied a return to Chonburi. Tickets for this game and the following Sunday against Suriname were easy to get through Thai Ticket Major.

There were several ways of travelling along the Gulf to the city. In the end, friends advised me to take a minibus. Sure enough, service ran from the small van station across the road from Chatuchak 2 Market near where I lived in Minburi.


I arrived with enough time to grab some provisions before we departed, with my drop-off point being opposite Central Chonburi, ideal for my hotel. It took about fifteen minutes on foot from the mall to find my excellent accommodation for the evening at Central Place, which cost 668 THB.

I had time for a nap before strolling to the Chonburi Stadium. It took around twenty minutes. It was good to see plenty of fan activities outside. They'd made a real effort to add to the matchday experience.


No stalls were selling beer. Those drinking were buying from the 7-Eleven at the far end, where my ticket was for the gate on Soi Nartmontasevee 30. I grabbed a couple of small cans and mingled near the Ultras, who set off a pyro display before they entered the stadium.

The crowd in general was family-oriented. It was good to see the Thai FA giving fans of a footballing stronghold the chance to see their national team. It was a case of finding the best seat as the ticket wasn’t numbered. I got a decent view towards the back of the curve.

A video from my visit
Many more Thai football videos on Rob’s Roving Sports Report


The match itself would struggle to find a highlights package, but it wasn’t pedestrian. Nepal were serious about their task and determined not to lose, using every trick in the book to contain their hosts, and by regularly putting ten men behind the ball.

I later read that the visitors were missing some of their star names, so a little understanding is fair. I’m not sure what to say about the first half. Thailand attacked towards our end, or at least should have. Beer wasn’t allowed in the stands, and Nepal's Pujan Uparkoti received a yellow card. These were the only things of note.


Kevin Deeromram for the home side put in a low cross-come shot that away keeper Kiran Chemjong Limbu dealt with after three minutes. The goalie then easily saved a side-footed effort from Picha Autra and then smothered a shot from Tristan Do.

Pathompol Charoenrattanapirom fired high and wide while Chemjong Limbu became the centre of attention several times with theatrical catches. Charoenrattanapirom was came closer soon after the restart from the edge of the box.


A curling effort from Adisak Kraisorn was just too high as Changsuek continued to press. Deeromram somehow sliced wide after forcing himself through on goal on the left-hand side of the penalty area as the pressure mounted, with Manuel Bihr having an effort pushed away.

Pansa Hemviboon saw his header come back off the bar with the keeper motionless before the deadlock was finally broken with twelve minutes left on the clock. Philip Roller cut inside the box, and his left-footed drive was deflected into the top corner.


Sasalak Haiprakhon went close with a low drive. Chaowat Veerachat's low shot in the final minute of normal time secured the victory. It had been hard work, but Thailand got there in the end.

At full-time, I had plans. HopfAddict looked tempting on the way to the match with its range of foreign beers, but the prices were high. Instead, I headed to Queen Bar. It had decent reviews, and they had been kind enough to reply to my enquiries on Facebook.



It proved to be an excellent choice. The owner was a lovely man, as were the staff and customers. A decent acoustic guitar singer provided the entertainment. We got chatting, and the boss told me to wait, so he could drive me home to my hotel. Outstanding customer service.

It had been another excellent few hours of learning and exploring. The football wasn’t the best, but the people most certainly were.


Many thanks to my good friend, Chonburi FC fan Dale, for providing information for this piece. Dale compiles the excellent, highly recommended fanzine/blog It's A Habit That Sticks, and edits A Thai Football Podcast, which comes out weekly.


Saturday, 19 October 2024

Thammasat Stadium (Bangkok)


Ground: Thammasat Stadium
Capacity: 25,000
Opened: 1998
Club: PEA FC, Police United, Bangkok United (former), Dome FC (current). 

Thammasat is a neutral venue for FA and League Cup semi-finals and finals, as well as the Thailand national team and various international teams.

Thammasat Stadium is one of Thailand's premier stadiums, despite its location and poor accessibility from central Bangkok.


Background

Thammasat Stadium, opened in 1998, is located on the Rangsit campus of Thammasat University, north of Bangkok. It was originally built for the 1998 ASEAN Games. Since then, it has been used predominantly for football.

Its design is a smaller version of Rajamangala National Stadium, with a cover on both sides. Thammasat's corner floodlight pylons, a mini stadium behind the north end, and an athletes' warm-up track offer extras that other venues cannot provide.


PEA FC (Provincial Electricity Authority) used the stadium in the 2001-02 season for Asian Champions League games, before Police United FC became the full-time tenant in 2011. They remained there for five seasons.

After Police moved south near the headquarters at Boonyachinda Stadium, Dome FC, part of Thammasat University, played there from 2015, with Bangkok United arriving in 2016. The stadium became a favourite of the Thai FA, which used it for the latter stages of their cup competitions.


Other Thammasat matches include the 2020 AFC U-23 Championship
, including the semi-final, which saw South Korea defeat Saudi Arabia. Bangkok United left Thammasat at the end of the 2024-25 season to become a tenant of BG Pathum United at BG Stadium. The stadium continued to host the national team and domestic cup ties.

My visits


Insee Police United 0 Suphanburi 2
Thai Premier League - Wednesday 27th March 2013
👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 3,722 🎟️ 200 THB (£4.80)

Click here to read about my first call to the stadium.

Dome FC 1 BCG 3
Thai League 4 Bangkok Region - Monday 18th June 2018 
👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 109 🎟️ 50 THB (£1.20)

An unplanned second visit is detailed here.

PT Prachuap 1 Chonburi 0
Thai League Cup semi-final - Wednesday 25th May 2022
👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 1,877 🎟️ 100 THB (£2.40)


A Long Ride

The Thai FA decided to use Thammasat Stadium as a neutral venue again after staging the FA Cup final the previous Sunday. It would also stage the final just four days later, as well as this semi-final.

I’d baulked at the chance to visit earlier in the season when Bangkok United were in situ. Easier journeys to other matches seemed more attractive. It took a long time and a few changes from Minburi on public transport, but this time my vanity sealed the deal.


I’d met up with my Chonburi supporting pal, Dale, a couple of weeks earlier when his team played away to Ratchaburi. I’d enjoyed their attacking style, so when he asked me to compile the match report I’ve repeated below for his website, it was a no-brainer.

Wary of the distance, I set off around 2.30pm, taking a minivan from Minburi terminus. We waited half an hour before setting off on what was to be a laborious journey. Yes, we initially beat the school traffic, but got horribly snarled up as we crawled down Ram Inthra Road.


It was painfully slow up Pahon Yothin Road, with all its turn-offs and side sois. Especially when rush hour really kicked in as people left work. We really were getting back to normal post-COVID. I asked the driver if he went all the way to the University, but he ended up at Future Park Rangsit.

Like when I went to BG Pathum United, I got out at Big C, opposite Zeer Rangsit and waited for the 510 bus for the remainder of the trip. Again, we got caught up in traffic. I jumped out at the campus's Thailand Science, only to see the bus continue towards the stadium.


I got slightly lost near the mini stadium, where Thailand Amateur League games were played, and again around the site's tennis courts before I eventually headed to the West Stand. It was divided into two sections so fans of both clubs had a sizeable cover.

I could choose from many seats at different heights. It was sparsely populated. The ultras with megaphones and drums chose to watch near the front. I have to say the stadium offered fantastic views.


Anyway. Onto my match report....

Prachuap advanced to face Buriram in the League Cup final with a sixty-fourth-minute goal from Brazilian striker Willen Mota. It was a game of few chances. Prachuap withstood prolonged Chonburi pressure to see out the game.

The Killer Wasp had the brighter of the early exchanges with a low cross skimming along the six-yard line, begging for a final touch. Both teams looked for an opening in a relatively dull first half.


Prachuap counterattacked following a Sharks corner. Soony Saad fired wide. Chonburi’s Songchai Thongcham switched off in his own box, but a couple of defensive blocks cleaned up the chance. Gidi Kanyuk's bending free kick at the other end was well saved by keeper Jirunpong Thammasiha.

From the start of the second half, both sides showed more attacking intent. A Sharks move down the left saw a low cross arrive just behind Yoo Byung-soo. His volley was weak and wide.


Keeper Chanin Sae-ear easily gathered Saad’s header as play went from end to end. The Sharks' Dennis Murillo was doing a decent job leading the line, heading just over from a cross. His teammate Kritsada Kaman backed this up with a shot over the bar.

Prachuap should have taken the lead just gone the hour mark when a superb cross from Saharat Pongsuwan picked out the free Apichart Denman on the back post, but his header missed the target.


Despite the small crowd rattling around Thammasat, both sets of fans created a cacophony. Drumming and chanting were unabated under the large curving East Stand roof. Those clad in orange celebrated when a simple through ball from Prasit Jantum found Mota, who brushed aside Prasit Jantum's weak efforts and finished calmly.

Prachuap’s players suddenly became more prone to requiring treatment from the physio. I can only assume referee Mongkolchai Pechsri put his foot down with a few words, as it soon stopped. The Sharks fans and players sounded their disapproval.


Kaman tried to fire up his Chonburi troops and came close to capitalising on dithering defenders, but could not get enough power behind his half-volley to really trouble custodian Thammasiha.

Sharks' pressure mounted, but in truth, their crossing was woeful. The introduction of diminutive wideman Phitak Pimpae created a few problems, but the Killer Wasp backline was having a good night. A scuffed volley from Kaman summed up Chonburi’s frustrations.


Their best chance of levelling came when Noppanon Kachaplayuk played a superb cross-field pass that Murillo chested down, but the big Brazilian sliced his left-footed effort badly wide. Despite a string of corners, the Prachuap defence held firm, setting off wild scenes among their travelling support.

Now, for a few personal thoughts to go with my report. I’m not sure either side deserved to win in 90 minutes. It lacked in quality and was a tight affair. I was surprised when the goal went in. I thought we were certain of extra time and possibly penalties from an early stage.


Venue Thoughts

Onto the venue. I've no doubt that Thammasat is a superb stadium, despite its running track not being ideal for football fans. The stands are steep with good views, but surely there had to be a more suitable venue in Bangkok for both sets of fans and neutrals to reach when the game was kicking off on a midweek night at 6pm. 

Despite setting off at 3pm, I got to the ground seven minutes before kick-off. The roads were gridlocked in places as returning students from the previous Monday added to the mounting rush hour traffic. Not great planning from the FA.


A Rainy Return Home

The catering outside the East Stand was fine, but only one stall sold soft drinks. My chicken nuggets and fries were excellent. I didn’t see any alcohol available. The ticket prices were good, so fair play to the Thai FA.

My own fault, but after the game I decided to take the 510 bus back to Rangsit and take a similar journey without the congestion. A huge electrical storm deluged the area, and no taxis were available. Fortunately, I had my poncho, but I still got a proper soaking before I eventually flagged down a cab.


I eventually got home around 11.30pm after taking a bus from outside Major Cineplex Rangsit to Wat Phra Sri Mahathat, and crossed the road for the 26 service back home. The air con didn’t do me many favours after being out in the rain!

It wasn't hard to see why Bangkok United, a good team and attractive tenants at Thammasat, struggled so hard to attract crowds. Every match is an away fixture unless you live in Rangsit. But for all that, I’d certainly give it another go and try to suss out the return bus stops!

Bangkok United 2 Lamphun Warriors 0
Thai League 1 - Sunday 6th November 2022
👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 1,307 🎟️ 100 THB (£2.40)

Read all about a home game for the resident club of the day.

Thailand 4 Philippines 0 
AFF Championships Group A - Monday 26th December 2022
👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 6,567 🎟️ 250 THB (£6)
 

Christmas Bonus

I couldn't find Christmas Day football in my new home like a year earlier, but I got second best. After contacting fellow Port expat Marco, I bought tickets online in advance for 250 Baht on the South Curve.

With plenty of time, I set off at 3pm for the 7.30pm kick-off. The plan was to meet in a bar near the stadium that I had checked out on Google Maps. I knew traffic issues could delay the journey, and I wanted to give myself time.


But there was no need for concern. The bus and Skytrain deposited me at Yaek Kor Por Aor BTS station. From there, I intended to take two buses. One to Zeer Rangsit, where I would change to the 510 and take it into the university campus.

However, a 39 arrived displaying Thammasat on the front. The lovely air-conditioned modern vehicle made the trip quickly and dropped me at the Executive Dome. Last time I walked from there, but with time on my hands, I waited a couple of minutes and hopped aboard the free Yellow Line service going around the grounds.


Pre-match at Thammasat

The stop by the Faculty of Engineering was a mere five minutes to the bar, translated as “Talk” on my app, across the busy Khlong Luang Road by a footbridge. It turned out to be an excellent find.

Unfortunately, the 
Stone Brewing draft beer wasn't on, so large bottles of local stuff did the job instead, along with pad krapow. Marco joined me for an hour before we walked the ten minutes or so to our turnstiles.


Before we got to our gate, a steward tried to send me to leave my camera at a point outside before a more senior colleague intervened. The Ultras let off pyros across the way as we went inside.

The beauty of our tickets was that we could sit where we wanted, so we headed high into the corner to grab an excellent view. The attendance was disappointing but not surprising. Oh, for Rajamangala to have staged the match.


The Match

The hosts came out of the blocks quickly and led from the third minute when a free kick from Theerathon Bunmathan was headed home majestically by man of the match Teerasil Dangda, who was outstanding all evening.

The game quickly turned into a procession of attack against defence. The Philippine goal led a charmed life. The visitors relied on luck, brave defending, desperate goalkeeping and bad finishing, with Bordin Phala causing endless problems out wide.


Adisak Praikorn, alongside Teerasil, was also in excellent form, as chances went begging. Kritsada Kaman had a goal disallowed after being judged offside before Phala cut inside and smashed a shot against the bar. Keeper Julian Schwarzer was left grasping at thin air.

Suphanan Bureerat couldn’t believe his luck when the custodian pushed away his volley from Dangda’s head down. The unmarked Ekanit Panya somehow headed wide from close range at the back post as Thailand were rampant.


Schwarzer's legs denied 
Praikorn before Panya was clumsily brought down in the area four minutes before the interval. Teerasil smashed home the spot kick, before we had a wander and a chat with a couple of Muang Thong Ultras at the break.

The away team stopper somehow scrambled a long shot round the post before a wonderful cross-field pass picked out Teerasil, whose first touch was exemplary as he then laid the ball square for Praikorn to slot home. It was a wonderful goal.

A video from my visit including Teerasil's penalty
Many more Thai football videos on Rob’s Roving Sports Report


The pressure continued unabated as shots rained in on goal. Phala ran through but was stopped when about to shoot. Bureerat scored with ease when the ball ran loose to him. Head coach Mano Pölking had seen enough and substituted his magnificent front three.

The game became a contest afterwards, with Oliver Bias's header for the Philippines forcing Kittipong Phoothawchuek to pull off a decent save. A header from sub, Channarong Promsrikaew, forced Schwarzer into another decent save at the other end.

Another replacement, Poramet Arjvirai, intercepted a loose back pass and set up Sarach Yooyen, who somehow contrived to blast over. Both sides had a couple of efforts as the game petered out, and away skipper Stephan Schröck continued whining at excellent Japanese referee Yudai Yamamoto.


Homeward Bound

We left when the assistant showed the board for stoppage time. We needed to find where the bus back home stopped. Two proved better than one, as we sussed out the 510 stop. It took us to Zeer Rangsit, from where a couple more rides got me back to Minburi at just after 11pm.

An excellent home performance, against an albeit wanting opposition, excellent company and a top few hours out. I enjoyed the bonus of seamless travel, which is a rarity when commenting on Thammasat University.


Bangkok United 2 Port FC 2 
Thai League 1 - Sunday 7th April 2024
👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 3,876 🎟️ 100 THB (£2.40)

Another league game, which turned out to be an excellent encounter, can be read about here.


Wednesday, 16 October 2024

Rajamangala Stadium (Bangkok)

Ground: Rajamangala Stadium 
Capacity: 49,749
Opened: 1998
Teams: Thailand National Team (current level)

Rajamangala Stadium was built for the 1998 Asian Games and the 1999 ASEAN University Games,  and soon became the national stadium for football, athletics and concerts.

Construction

Rajamangala Stadium is part of a large complex operated by the Sports Authority of Thailand (SAT), located in Hua Mak district, in the east of Bangkok.

The concrete construction created a stadium that is both impressive and imposing. It is undoubtedly dramatic, especially from its approach or by visitors heading into the city from Suvarnabhumi Airport.


Stunning Design

The stands rise and fall like a giant, exaggerated version of the stadium opened in Huddersfield in 2004. It has narrow tiers of seats at each end, but the tiers rise as they move round the sides until they peak level with the halfway line.

It is traditionally the national football team's home and has staged many other events over the years.


Football Usage

The stadium has hosted many prestigious football matches, including the 2007 AFC Asian Cup group games. Thai club sides have also used the stadium when playing in continental cup competitions. Krung Thai Bank FC and PEA FC used it in the AFC Champions League and AFC Cup, respectively. 

The SAT tried to use it to its full potential. The stadium hosted athletic events, pop concerts and political rallies, as well as BB-CU FC home games during their spell in the Thai Premier League. Their matches attracted small crowds.


Concerts Galore

Many musical stars have entertained crowds in the magnificent bowl, including Lada Gaga, Coldplay, Ed Sheeran, Harry Styles, Justin Bieber, One Direction and Blackpink, as well as numerous other shows and exhibitions.

The side tribunes are designated 'East' and 'West'. 'East' is the uncovered popular side; 'West' is the covered side with more expensive seats. The two ends are designated 'North' and 'South'.


English Classic

In 2022, Manchester United defeated Liverpool 4-0 in the Century Cup in front of 50,428 spectators. The following year, tournament football returned to Rajamangala, in the under-17s Asian Cup. The Thailand national team games continued to attract large crowds, creating a vibrant atmosphere.

My visits

Stadium Visit
April 2007

Holiday Opportunity


The week after I visited Chiang Mai for an amateur international cricket tournament, I had time to kill while my hosts were at work, so I decided to explore without much local knowledge, which led to the challenge.

The following Tuesday, I took a taxi to the country's major venue, the imposing Rajamangala Stadium. The outer gates were open, but the guards wouldn’t let me in before I eventually found the Thailand Museum of Sport.


Local Kindness

A kind lady let me look around while she enquired on the telephone whether I could get inside the stadium, once she’d satisfied herself that I didn’t belong to the media. The camera had no doubt raised her suspicions. It was as good as I had hoped once I saw inside, and it proved worth the effort. 

Thailand U23 0 North Korea U23 0
AFC Under 23 Qualifier - Tuesday 31st March 2015
👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 20,000 🎟️ 200 THB (£4.45)


Local Transport

It was the second day of my holiday in Thailand in readiness for the Chiang Mai International Cricket Sixes. After a decent rest at my host Steve’s house, Fah brought us local food from a nearby street stall in Minburi in Bangkok's eastern suburbs.

After many visits to the Land of Smiles, I was determined to use local transport, and I’d done plenty of homework on buses so I could get around. We caught an open-backed songthaew to the main road in Minburi in sweltering temperatures.


Canal Boat to the Match

We then caught the number 27 service bus, which dropped us opposite the ever-impressive air-conditioned Bangkapi Mall, offering a welcome respite from the heat before we took our third mode of transport.

This came in the form of the Khlong Saen Saep Express Boat. The short journey dropped us off at Mahadthai. At the end of the street, we looked inside the Adidas store and a large outlet with sports goods from all the major manufacturers on the corner of Ramkhamhaeng 65 and the main road. The complete journey of around 20km cost about 58p for the pair of us.


Where's the Bar?

We needed to use the footbridge over the busy Ramkhamhaeng Road to reach the stadium. Fans were assembling, ready for their team's big game. The other group game between Cambodia and the Philippines had kicked off at 4pm inside, but we decided to wait for the main event at 7pm.

We wanted refreshments and some food, so we grabbed some cheap fried chicken from a street vendor, which made us thirstier. Google Maps wasn't as reliable as we'd hoped, and after a bit of a wild goose chase, we settled for a large beer in the trendy Wink Bar.


Heavy Security

We were looking for a bar selling worldwide craft beers on the map, but we ended up outside the stadium for a tin of Leo before buying our 200 Baht (£4) tickets. It was decent value for this match, but they covered both games. No match programmes were available.

We were frisked and went through several ticket checks before we headed up to our seats in the open West Stand. I had been in touch with Tom, a groundhopping mate whom I’d last seen at Leatherhead. He was now teaching English in Bangkok and got stuck into watching games around the country. He was in the lower tier and waiting for us.


Good Seats, Dull Game

We found three seats together at the back, a bit further round, so we could have a good chat. Our side and the two ends began to fill up. The support was impressive when everyone sang or cheered in unison. Three ultra sections supporting the team were spread around.

The game lacked action and attacking intent for such an important clash. It was the final game in the group. Thailand hadn't built their goal difference against the two weaker sides in the four-team group and now needed a win to top the section and qualify for the finals.


Tactics Confusion

The North Koreans looked better organised, and we thought they'd be tough to beat. As the match went into the second half, we were surprised and frustrated by the home side's tactics.

It was as though they weren't concerned. With ten minutes left, we got a bit tetchy and lamented the attitudes on show. The game finished with a whimper with no real goalmouth action. The home side took their plaudits as we trudged out.


Conundrum Solved

Tom joined us for some post-match refreshment as the crowds drifted by. The ‘highlights’ were on TV in the open bar we found, along with interviews. No one seemed concerned about the result.

We had an inkling we were missing something when Tom found out Thailand had qualified as the best runner-up. The players knew the results from the earlier kick-offs around Asia. Fans passed us on the way home from the match. They’d stayed behind to celebrate.


Post Match Fun

We went over the road to a fine upstairs bar with open sides and a view. Each of us had a Thai meal and a large bottle of beer. The total cost was 480 Baht, or less than £10. The area around Ramkhamhaeng University and the Sports Authority of Thailand really was a decent find.

Steve and I jumped in a cab and had a couple of nightcaps outside our favourite Minburi bar, Sudtong Club, to round off a great outing.

Bangkok United 2 Buriram United 0
Thai Champions Cup - Saturday 5th August 2023
👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 10,824 🎟️ 80 THB (£1.80)


Early Doors

I arrived by canal boat again, a couple of hours before kickoff, and bought cheap food from the open market next to the main road. With nowhere open selling beers, I put on my saddest eyes. Wink Bar served me well before their 6pm opening time so that I could get back over the road for kickoff.

It was great to be back at Rajamanagala. It suffered during the pandemic and was getting a blast from some Thai-based Westerners on social media because little football was being played there and a recent postponement featuring Leicester City and Tottenham Hotspur.


Match Action

I saw a shock in the Thai equivalent of the Community Shield as Bangkok United (BU) did a proper job on last season’s treble winners, Buriram United (BR). They thoroughly deserved it too. From the outset, the winners went about their task, threatening before Brazilian striker Willen finished off a smart move after eight minutes.

BR's new signing Ramil Sheydayev, of Azeri origin, looked good out wide, but his teammates had been overreliant on supplying him, which was soon pounced upon, and he gradually became increasingly frustrated throughout the match.


The club fired forward Jonaton Bolingi in the summer for indiscipline. His replacement in the starting lineup, Lonsana Doumbouya, looked lightweight and lost interest after Suphan Thongsong challenged him strongly. International striker Supachai Jaided seemed strangely muted playing just behind him. 

The favourites to retain the Thai league title were off the pace, though Bangkok had won the corresponding fixture a year earlier. No points at stake in a friendly. Thitipan Puangchan, in a holding midfield role for BU, was excellent, as was the scorer of the second goal. 

A video from my visit
Many more Thai football videos on Rob’s Roving Sports Report


Eid Mahmoud, a Palestinian who always impressed me, notched five minutes after the restart. His chance came after more woeful BR defensive work. They allowed a wide man to skip past the full-back and deliver a low cross. Bangkok United were fluid throughout, with their keeper Patiwat Khammai in good form.

A special mention to referee Mr Somsingha, who clamped down when necessary but let the game flow. In my opinion, he also did well to wave away much of the moaning emanating from the Buriram crew.


Great Facilities Being Used

At full-time, a floodlit 6-a-side beach football tournament was in progress with crowds around it as I left. Many other facilities were also being used. 

It created a vibrant atmosphere. Athletes from a wide range of disciplines partook. Whether it's archery, ice hockey, gymnastics, velodrome cycling, swimming, athletics, snooker, or another sport with a national authority, Rajamangala is the place to head.


Several buses pass along bustling Ramkhamhaeng Road at the front of the complex. I caught one to
 near Fashion Island, where I hailed a taxi. I was home, ready for food just over an hour after full-time.