Sukhothai

Sukhothai FC

Ground: Thalay Luang Stadium
Capacity: 8,000
Club Founded: 2009
League: Thai League 1 (current level)

While visitors flock to see the ruins in the historical northern city of Sukhothai, there is also modern entertainment to be found at Thalay Luang Stadium, the home of the Fire Bats of Sukhothai FC.

Early Years

Sukhothai FC was founded in 2009, initially playing their home games at the Sukhothai Institute of Physical Education Stadium. The club, coached by Chusak Sriphum, was awarded a place in the third-tier Regional League Division 2 North. The side remained in mid-table or lower positions for several seasons before ending third in 2013. 

New Stadium

Big changes came in 2014 as the club moved into the new Thalay Luang Stadium. The regional title was clinched, followed by promotion from Group B of the playoffs, taking the Fire Bats to a place in the second-tier Division 1.

The prolific Felipe Ferreira scored the goals as Sukhothai won promotion at the first attempt, for the side led by Somchai Chuayboonchum, who had succeeded Somchai Makmool. Renan Marques was the top marksman of an incredible 2016 season. 

AFC Competition

The side consolidated their league standing at the top level of Thai football, as well as lifting the FA Cup. The club were awarded the accolade when the competition was abandoned at the semifinal stage following the death of King Bhumibol Adulyadej. All four remaining sides became joint winners.

However, Sukhothai won the draw to represent Thailand in the AFC Champions League in 2017, defeating Yadanarbon of Myanmar before losing the playoff round to Chinese side Shanghai SIPG.

 

Relegation

The legendary John Baggio then began to make his mark in the team after coach Makmool was reappointed, before being replaced by Pairoj Borwonwatanadilok. Chalermwoot Sa-ngapol was then given the job as Nelson Bonilla put away the goals.

Ljubomir Ristovski was the next Sukhothai head coach before he was replaced by a returning Pairoj before the end of the 2019 season. Thai football changed to the European calendar in 2020-21, with the goals of Baggio not being enough to prevent relegation for the side led by Surapong Kongthep. 

A Return to Thai League 1

Osman Sow made his mark up front for the Fire Bats in 2021-22 as the side won promotion back to Thai League 1 at the first attempt under the tutelage of coach Dennis Amato. The team stayed up before the German tactician moved on.

Chusak Sriphum and then Sugao Kambe were the next head coach appointments. A returning Bonilla scored the goals to help Sukhothai remain safe, despite some disharmony on and off the pitch, with fans being upset with the club owners.

Recent Times

Aktaporn Chalitaporn led the side from the bench as the consistent Baggio, in his second spell at the club, joined in the goalscoring effort by Matheus Fornazari. Ekalak Thong-am was appointed as the Sukhothai head coach in March 2026. 

His team retained their top-flight status with a 3-0 final-day home win against Muangthong United.

My visit

Sukhothai 1 Buriram United 2

Thai League 1 - Sunday 6th April 2025

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 6,095 🎟️ 120 THB (£2.70)

Friendship Through Football

One of the great pleasures of watching football across Thailand has been my involvement in A Thai Football Podcast. The weekly airing encourages all sorts of topics of conversation, with match reports from anyone who wants to contribute and send anything in being welcomed.

Dale, who does an incredible job putting it together, has found contacts from goodness knows where. This has led to friendships being made with other like-minded individuals when catching up whenever visiting different parts of the country. Bill Greaves is a prime example. 

Bill, with his Aberdonian and Canadian drawl, sends in some cracking reports full of humour and smart observations. When my wife, Taew, looked at routes to return from the annual Chiang Mai Cricket Sixes, the fixtures, and destinations aligned perfectly, also offering the chance to see historic Sukhothai as part of our road trip.

Bill, through Dale, got in touch, and we enjoyed a phone chat a week before we met up, with his good lady, Dtoi, sorting out the match tickets. Taew drove us down on Sunday morning along a scenic route, before we checked into our rather underwhelming resort, much to her disappointment.

My Roving Report for A Thai Football Podcast

Matchday in Sukhothai

Not to worry, after a siesta, we were soon meeting our hosts in a noodle shop for a quick beer. Bill’s original suggestion to go for a burger was scuppered as AJ’s was shut, as was his alternative plan. He didn’t seem too upset as he enjoyed being at the Thalay Luang Stadium with lots of time to spare.

The couple could not have been more friendly or helpful. I had a wander about for photos before returning to the car, which had been parked next to by other hospitable regulars as a small tailgate party ensued with food and drink purchased from the decent choice of stores. 

I did my stuff for the podcast with Bill offering his thoughts before he and Dtoy went inside a little before us, so that he could manage the steps to our seat before it got busy. The atmosphere was building once we joined them, with beers and the spicy local thin sausage, which I quickly took a liking to.

The stadium was also to my approval, with magnificent views of the mountains in the distance and seats close to the pitch without a running track. The locals were out in force and made a proper din against the big boys of Thai football, who were firm favourites to win against their mid-table opposition. 

Buriram Come to Town

Love or dislike Buriram, they are an outstanding example of what money can provide with star players, by far the biggest club stadium in the country, and honours galore. The way that referees seemingly bend towards them is another matter, but not unique to Thailand in the way the most powerful are accommodated.

The first half saw almost incessant Buriram pressure. A couple of scrambles in the home area somehow saw the ball being kept out by a mixture of desperation, luck, brave defending, erratic goalkeeping from understudy Supazin Hnupichai, and poor finishing. It was not dull.

The home Fire Bats were either about to be eaten up or come up with the greatest ‘rope a dope’ performance ever. The tiny John Baggio and giant Matheus Fornazari formed an unlikely double act, but on occasions, they caused concern to the visiting rearguard.

It was like an FA Cup tie back home, watching a non-league side take on a team from several divisions higher. That’s how much of a gulf there can be at times in Thai football. That said, at 0-0, Sukhothai always had a chance of a breakaway to snatch a win that would have made for the perfect evening. 

Soon into the second half, Supazin made a super save from which Supachai Chaided blasted the rebound over. A local friend of Bill was not enamoured by the number of foreigners taking the field for Buriram. They are not a Thai club was the gist of his observations.

The deadlock was broken in the fiftieth minute, as the impressive Jefferson Tabinas went on another forceful run down the left-hand side. His powerful cross was put away by substitute Suphanat Mueanta for star-studded Buriram. Shortly after, Goran Čaušić saw a shot smash off the top of the crossbar. 

In the sixty-fifth minute, the reigning champions doubled their advantage. Sukhothai lost the ball in midfield, where it was quickly swept wide on the right. The cross was chested home by Martin Boakye, with my thoughts being on the rest of the game being a case a damage limitation.

The man beside us was further narked when Buriram introduced another foreign star, Guilherme Bissoli, into the action. His team didn’t stop believing and grabbed a goal in stoppage time when the ball was dragged back for Hikaru Matsui to fire past goalie    Neil Etheridge.

However, there was not enough time to raise any more attacks, with the result being about the right outcome. Nobody could accuse the Sukhothai players of not giving their all, but they were beaten by a better side, who edged closer to the title.

A Stormy Ending

We still had plenty to look forward to. Our match tickets gave free admission to a concert in the park behind the goal, which would see the extremely popular Thai band, Clash, playing. Off we went as best we could through the crowds, losing our hosts when we got split up. 

Eventually, we were inside the fenced-off area, but just as the band began to play, the heavens opened, and huge winds blew across the open space. It got very cold, wet, and dangerous, very quickly. It was scary for a while.

Particularly as the poles holding the large Chang beer banners began toppling over, and Bill, in a seat, would not be able to get out of the way. We protected him as best as we could with my large body attempting to perform as a wind break while Taew used an umbrella over him as Toy went to retrieve the car. 

The gig was abandoned, leading to chaos as everyone wanted to leave at the same time. Dtoi managed to get the car near, and I forced open the fencing so my friend could access it quickly. We had a giggle inside the vehicle, but it had been quite an experience.

The traffic back towards the main roads was horrendous, taking us well over an hour before Dtoi deposited us at the end of the lane by our accommodation. I had a coffee to warm up before bed.

Onward Journey

The following morning, we had breakfast and covered the sites of the historical park without paying to go inside them. It was a pleasant little tour offering me some excellent video footage, before we headed to Kamphaeng Phet to meet more friends for another lovely few hours.

Our thanks go to Bill and Dtoi for their hospitality and for making the visit so special.

Kamphaengphet

Kamphaengphet FC

Ground: Cha Kung Rao Stadium

Capacity: 2,406
Club Founded: 2009
League: Thai League 3 North (current level)

While some football clubs have a long list of honours, some around Thailand continue to offer their community a place to attend and stability. That is something that could be said about Kamphaengphet FC.

A Potted Club History

Kamphaengphet FC is a professional football club that took up residence at the Kamphaeng Phet Provincial Administrative Organisation (PAO) Stadium, otherwise known as Chakangrao Central Stadium in the centre of town, when the club became a member of the third-tier Regional League Division 2 Northern Region.

In their first three seasons, the ‘Cha Kung Rao Warriors’ finished in the lower reaches of the division before ending in sixth place in 2012, before slipping back down the table over the following three campaigns.

A Playoff Appearance

A runners-up finish in 2016 earned the club a place in the Champions League playoffs, in which they saw off Ayutthaya Warrior before falling to Surat Thani. When the Thai football league structure was amended in 2017, Kamphaengphet were placed in Thai League 3 Upper Region.

Otsu Kazutaka top-scored as the side ended in eleventh place. This performance was repeated a year later with Badar Al-Alawi topping the goals charts. Kawin Nuanthat then became the fans' favourite forward for a couple of seasons.

League Struggles

Lowly finishes followed after the league chose to follow the European fixture calendar, which continued under coach Saksan Siripong. Sakdinan Makmuang was then put in charge of the team, which saw Punyaphat Autha top scoring. Former coach Saksan returned, without any change in fortune on the pitch.

Khwanchai found his old scoring touch in 2024-25, as the team completed a remarkable fifth consecutive ninth-place finish. He continued his scoring run the following season, first under returning coaches Saksan and then Sakdinan, as Kamphaengphet finished one place above relegation.

My visit

Stadium Visit - Monday 7th April 2025

A Visit to See an Old Friend

I try not to miss an opportunity to call in and see friends when Taew and I are travelling anywhere. On this occasion, Alan Parkhouse, an old journalist friend who had been of great assistance when I covered cricket media duties at various tournaments in Thailand, was now living there. Even better, he and his good lady, Phung, had got married a few days earlier. 

I'd been in touch in the weeks leading up to our trip to Chiang Mai, for the annual International Cricket Sixes, to find the best options of accommodation and to plan our brief stay, which was to be the day after we had been in Sukhothai to meet more friends and go to the football.

The trip home, which would then include a ride through the Petchabun Mountains and an overnight stop in Chaiyaphum, is featured in this video on my YouTube Channel. Many more adventures around the Land of Smiles, along with lots of sports, can be found there.

We arrived in Kamphaeng Phet around lunchtime after visiting Sukhothai's UNESCO Historical Park. What I didn't know was that we were to find one similar an hour later, albeit on a smaller scale.

The area around both that and the city shrine provided an immediate positive impression, as did a visit to the football stadium on the way to our hotel for the evening. Chakangrao Central Stadium was located just over the road from the Ping River, which I considered a perfect spot,  near markets, and probably having the benefit of a breeze. 

Inside the arena, I liked how the original raised main stand had two large, covered extensions on either side of it, making it stand out from many other such provincial municipal venues that also have running tracks.

Opposite stood an open, raised terrace, while an unusually large detached block occupied one corner, as was also the case when I visited Phitsanulok and Lopburi. The High School behind that end of the arena provided it with an enclosed feel.

Happy with the photographs and videos I took, I rejoined my ever-obliging wife, Taew, for the short drive, which entailed crossing the river and finding the majestic Mango House Resort & Café, our refuge for the night.

A Most Convivial Evening

A quality lunch and then catch up with food with Alan and Phung ensued before we caught up with them at their place the following morning, which will see their steakhouse open in a pleasant area near the golf course. Hopefully, a return was being planned by the ladies, which would include me seeing a football game and having a round of golf!

Uttaradit

Uttaradit FC

Ground: Uttaradit Province Stadium
Capacity: 3,245
Club Founded: 2009
League: Thai League 3 League North (current level)

Early Years

Uttaradit FC represent the northern city of the same name in the north of the country, with the ‘Fighting Cocks’, as they were originally nicknamed, joining the Regional League Division 2 Northern Region, as coach Atithep Yoosawad led them to fourth in their debut campaign. 

A season was spent playing at Uttaradit Rajabhat University Stadium, before returning to their original venue. A change of name to Uttaradit-Morseng failed to result in any measure of success.

A League Title

Midtable finishes were the norm, with Noh Hyeong-cheol being the regular source of goals. Uttaradit competed in Thai League 4 North in 2017 following league restructuring, where they finished fourth in the table. 

Diarra Aboubacar Sidick, the Ivorian striker, would lead Uttaradit to the regional title in 2018. However, the side fared badly in the playoffs, and then regrouped under head coach Vorrakorn Vijannarong for the following season, where the goals of Giuberty Silva Neves helped the team retain its title.

Again, the playoffs ended in disappointment for the ‘Broken Sword’, as Uttaradit were now nicknamed. After further reorganisation of the lower tiers, Uttaradit were placed in Thai League 3 North in 2020-21, with the fixture calendar being aligned with that in Europe. The team ended in fourth position.

Chatchai Narkwijit put away the chances in 2021-22 as Uttaradit Saksiam, as they were known under a sponsorship deal, finished seventh after Chumnan Pharkunthud had been appointed as head coach during the season.

 

Playoff Action

Chaiwat Puengsiri took charge of the side for the following campaign, as the goals of Phufah Chuenkomrak helped the side to a runners-up finish. The playoffs ended in disappointment. The TPF backing of the club was put in place before the 2024-25 season, as Nitipong Saiyasit was named as head coach.

He was replaced by Sorrasak Ratson for the following campaign, before Theerawekin Seehawong replaced him halfway through. Within a few matches, Anucha Chaiwong was appointed and took Uttaradit to the playoffs.

My visit

Stadium Visit - Tuesday 25th March 2025

Road Trip

The opportunity to visit the Province Stadium in Uttaradit came about as my wife Taew and I were staying at the far side of the town on our final stop of a four-day road adventure from Sisaket to Chiang Mai.

We’d already enjoyed the delights of an overnight stop in Loei, where I took in the Saturday night match against Surin City, before a wonderful two nights in Chiang Khan, which offered lots of fun and relaxation.

Dramatic Journey

The road to our strategic destination for the evening was dramatic at times, with plenty of mountainous roads being travelled along. The scenery in parts was not unlike deepest Wales or the Highlands of Scotland. Good for me, but undoubtedly more testing for my good lady behind the wheel.

The stadium impressed me when we turned into the complex off the main road. The main stand was better than most, boosted by smart individual seats on its raised deck. The raised open area opposite was more in keeping with other similar venues. The trees that surrounded the arena gave it an enclosed feel.

Discovering Uttaradit

Once I had completed my videoing and photography, we headed to check in at our resort, which had a semi-rural location. Baan Suan Palm Resort was decent value, clean, and included a breakfast, which we could enjoy before heading to Chiang Mai early the following morning.

We spent a couple of hours visiting some local attractions, including Laplae City Gate and the Phraya Pichai Broken Sword monument. Food was obtained at a quaint department store in the city centre to take back as we enjoyed a relaxed evening.

Our complete road trip from Sisaket to Chiang Mai, which includes the Uttaradit leg of our trip, along with football and Saturday night in Loei, as well as Chiang Khan, is here to take a look.

Please feel free to peruse and subscribe, free of charge, to my YouTube channel, where you will find lots of videos full of happy vibes relating to Thai destinations, festivals, culture and sports.

Uthai Thani

Uthai Thani FC

Ground: Uthai Thani Province Stadium

Capacity: 4,477

Club Founded: 2020

League: Thai League 1 (current level)

The story of Uthai Thani FC is a fine example of how to take advantage of a situation. They were fortunate that the owners of an existing club decided to relocate it to Northern Thailand, but they have made the most of their opportunity.

Uthai Thani Forest FC 

The first club to represent the city in national league football was Uthai Thani Forest, who played at the Province Stadium after being formed in 2010. They were placed in the Regional League Division 2 Northern Region.

The team didn't make much of an impact and played some games at Lat Yao Wittayakhom School Stadium in Nakhon Sawan during one season. Forest did not enter the competition in 2015, reappearing a year later and finishing last in the Central Region. They would have been relegated, but the club was suspended regardless for administrative breaches.

Air Force United FC

 

The owners of Air Force United FC decided to move the club from their Thupatemi Stadium in northern Bangkok to Uthai Thani and change their name to reflect the move in 2019. You can read here about Air Force United.

The ‘new’ club played in Thai League 2, finishing in the relegation places in 2020-21, which saw four different head coaches having spells in charge of the team. Worachai Surinsirirat could not save the side from the drop at the end of the season.

Promotions and Cup Runs

The team regrouped in Thai League 3 with an outstanding 2021-22 season, as the goals of Ricardo Santos, Phattharaphon Jansuwan, and Chigozie Mbah sent the Elephants to top the Northern region table under returning head coach Chaiman. The playoffs were won, while
Krabi were defeated as Uthai Thani were crowned the Thai League 3 champions.

The knockout competitions also saw good runs, with Uthai Thani reaching the quarter-final of the FA Cup before going out at home to Nakhon Ratchasima Mazda. The side also reached the last eight of the League Cup, with eventual winners PT Prachuap ending the run.

There was a spell of doubt whether the club would compete the following season until new owners were found who then appointed the experienced Somchai Makmool to run team affairs. Narasak Boomkleang was appointed as head coach in 2022-23 before being replaced by Pan Suksawang and then Pattaraphon Naprasert.

The season saw the team reach the playoffs as the reliable Ricardo Santos continued to score the goals. Suphanburi and then Customs United were defeated as Uthai Thai reached the Thai League 1. The Province Stadium was adapted, with new stands behind each goal being added over the running track.

The owners showed their intent by appointing Jukkapant Punpee as head coach but replacing him within two weeks with Mikael Stahre. In a turnaround, Jukkapang was back at the helm before the end of the season as the Elephants consolidated.

The experienced Serbian head coach, Miloš Joksić, was given the role at Uthai Thani in August 2024 before being replaced by Gino Lettieri in May 2025, before Joksić returned five months later.

My visit

Uthai Thani FC 0 Nakhon Ratchasima 1

Thai FA Cup Round of 8 - Wednesday 16th February 2022

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 856 

Planning the Trip

Studying the forthcoming midweek fixtures, I fancied somewhere different for a couple of days and to have an adventure outside Bangkok. Time was of no consequence, so I figured that a venue not so easy to get to was a good challenge.

This trip around 180 miles north fitted the bill, with the third-tier hosts looking to knock out another top-flight side after an extra-time win at Muang Thong United in the previous round. A potential cup shock and uncharted waters. A plan was hatched.

Nakhon Sawan

I'd travelled to nearby Nakhon Sawan the previous day by train to stay overnight. This looked like my best solution. A fine afternoon of sightseeing and walking, followed by an evening in the Analogue Bar drinking and listening to music, was a great start.

My trainers were still wet from the Tuesday evening deluge when I awoke in my room in the basic but friendly Anodard Hotel. I had obviously had a good walk as I soon relented on my way to the bus terminal and jumped aboard a tuk-tuk instead.

The helpful staff soon sorted me out with a minivan ticket for 30 THB. I quickly grabbed some provisions at 7/11 and got a seat by a couple of monks, one of whom was most friendly and helpful as he spoke a bit of English.

I’d been told that it was a religious day because of a Buddhist celebration and that bars would be closed. I was still hopeful, despite the religious brothers confirming the fact to me. Surely, I’d find somewhere?

Discovering Uthai Thani

The journey took around an hour before I began exploring another new place. I was a bit early to check into my excellent room at S2@Uthai, but the smiling staff soon had me sorted. It was time to head out for more exercise.

The area along the banks of the Sakae Krang River was interesting. I particularly liked the street lampstands being decorated with elephants. From there it was onto Wat Sanggat Rattana Khiri.

This consisted of two temples. One at street level and the other one overlooking the town up a long set of steps. The view at the top was well worth the effort, as were the various buildings and places of worship.

I headed back to my hotel via a convoluted route down the hill and then around the main road. A siesta was most welcome before I headed in the direction of the local Province Stadium for the 6pm kick-off.

Atmosphere Building

Arriving reasonably early, just in case there was a huge crowd, I was delighted to see that the fans' area outside the stand had been missed off the memo about the booze ban. I grabbed a couple of beers and snacks.

An excellent atmosphere was building as cup fever had reached town. It took me back to Scarborough playing Chelsea in terms of many non-regular townspeople turning out to create a festival vibe.

It was great fun outside, and again once upstairs in the seats. The ground reminded me of a lower-league German venue around a running track and with a mountain forest as a backdrop. The raised seated stand was on the far side, with a long lower cover where I was located.

The locals made plenty of noise getting behind their favourites, with some grabbing a vantage point looking over the fence in the far corner as they stood in the back of an open truck. I was shocked when I saw the announced crowd figure. I thought that there was more there.

FA Cup Action

The visiting Swatcat from Korat saw Kwame Karikari head over a decent cross in the opening exchanges. It wasn't hard to see how Uthai Thani topped their regional division and were also in the last eight of the League Cup. They gave it everything.

A fine long diagonal pass picked out Elephants’ Phongsakon Trisat, who headed down for Nontapat Naksawat, whose half volley from the edge of the box was parried away by visiting custodian Pisan Dokmaikeaw.

Chitpanya Thisud then flashed a powerful drive wide for the hosts. Ratchasima responded when Nattachai Srisuwan saw his shot deflected narrowly wide. Karikari came close to inadvertently heading into his own net when trying to clear a corner.

There wasn't much between the sides in the first half, but on the pattern of play, I was convinced I was going to see a giant-killing after the interval. At the break, I went for a wander to get some photos from different angles.

The away side defended with discipline and created an opportunity when Karikari just failed to get on the end of a slide rule pass from Amadou Ouattara. Srisuman hooked an effort over when it eventually fell in his path following a corner.

Mongkol Thosakrai came desperately close to converting with a diving header for Uthai from a low cross, but the ball was just ahead of him. Korat’s English defender Charlie Clough showed intent when heading over at the other end.

It would be the big fella from Taunton, who was about my man of the match with a powerful display, who broke the deadlock with just over three minutes remaining. Naruphol Ar-romsawa sent in a bending free kick. Clough ran past the high line defence to score on the volley, having lost his marker.

Uthai weren’t done. Persistence from Phattharaphon Junsuwan and Thosakrai saw the ball come to Suphawit Chusaksakunviboon around eight yards out in the centre of the goal. He somehow contrived to shoot over the bar.

Fine play from Thosakrai was not capitalised on when he got to the byline and got his cross in. Another substitute, Kirati Keawsombut, should really have got a header on it. I must admit to feeling quite sad at full-time. I really got into it among the hospitable locals.

Common sense should have prevailed on leaving, as I should have had a couple of beers at the ground. Nomto Café music bar over the road was closed, so I decided to head back into town looking for a rare sign of life.

Friendship Through Football

I couldn't find a bar or shop serving beer, though I thought I’d struck lucky when I spotted a man with a drink watching the Thailand Under 21 side on TV outside a shop by the bus station. The forthright woman inside gave me a proper dressing down when I asked for a beer!

Back on Thanon Toep Siri opposite KFC, a group in Uthai Thani shirts were sitting. I’d waved and said hello on the way to the stadium, and they pointed to the turn-off I needed when they went ahead on their motorbikes. They remembered me and beckoned me over the road.

They said they could get beer if I fancied one, so I gave them some cash to get some cans. My new friends were intrigued by what I was doing there,e as an educational drink ensued. They soon knew all about the Scarborough v Chelsea game I mentioned earlier in the piece.

After a couple of drinks, I headed back to the hotel for a proper night's sleep. The following morning, I was more than a little concerned to find that I would not get to Nakhon Sawan in time for my booked ticket back home. Buses weren’t as frequent as I believed.

Lucky Return Journey

Not to worry. I’d have to buy a new ticket and get home later. No harm done. I was considering all options when I asked where the minibus at the station was going. It was my lucky day as Bangkok was where I was headed.

It was a bit cramped, but we stopped at the services at Saraburi for a stretch. I was later deposited at Mo Chit, from where I caught a bus home via Bangkapi, alighting at home to be greeted by another rainstorm.

If you have enjoyed reading this article, you might wish to visit my YouTube Channel, where there are numerous homemade Thai football videos, as well as a wide range of content covering all aspects of life in the Land of Smiles, including the one above, when I visited Uthai Thani and Nakhon Sawan.