Buriram United 2019-2026

Ground: Chang Arena
Capacity: 32,600
Club Founded: 2012
League: Thai League 1 (current level)

This page covers the matches I have attended at the Chang Arena since 2019. A delve into the history of Buriram United and my first visit has its own page, as does my visit when the stadium was used as a neutral venue, with its background.

My Visits from 2019 to 2026

Buriram United 1 Beijing Guoan 3

AFC Champions League Group G - Tuesday 9th April 2019

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 9,345 🎟️ 150 THB (£3.60)

I’d not really anticipated returning to Buriram so quickly, but the fixtures worked out perfectly just after the Chiang Mai International Cricket Sixes. Steve, my regular Thai travelling companion, wanted to go, as did Fah, who is originally from the province.

It worked out well. Fah would meet us there, along with Gary, who lived in Buriram. Before we connected with them, we had had some serious issues to overcome to get there. I hadn't done my homework about bus travel in Isan.

Traditional Isan train fare. Barbequed chicken on a stick

Homework Failure

We’d been in Udon Thani v Customs United on Sunday evening, followed by a couple of heavy nights out. I had relied on there being a bus to Buriram. However, I was wrong. We would have needed to change in Nakhon Ratchasima, with the whole journey taking seven hours.

Instead, we decided to take the train and change in Korat. The snag was that we needed to be on the 5.45am service to arrive in Buriram at 2pm. What followed was the stuff of legends or nightmares, depending on your sense of humour and attitude.

A Rough Ride

Just to add an extra dynamic into the equation, I decided to get the taste the night before in Udon and turn into George Best without his talent. It’s fair to say that an interesting evening evolved, meaning two very weary travellers trudging to the station in the dark early the next day.

Trying to sleep in the basic carriages was not easy, but I enjoyed a bit of extra shut-eye. I got to see the elevated part of the track that had been under construction in the Khon Kaen region on my visit the previous June. I’m not sure Steve was quite as fascinated.

We’d been assured by the assistant at Udon the day before that there was the option of an air-conditioned first-class train between Nakhon Ratchasima and Buriram. Steve’s expression at the ticket office, when we changed, told a different tale.

All seats were sold on what was a second-class-only service. I wasn’t perturbed. Surely there would be plenty of space? I was wrong. Terribly wrong. I can’t remember ever trying to get on such a busy train between towns for so long.

It was a minor miracle that we got my big case of the overhead rack. Freelance food and drink sellers squeezed down the aisles to add to the melee. All sold similar wares and shouted the same story. It got past being amusing after a while.

It didn’t deter me from getting my favourite lump of chicken on a stick as bemused locals looked on at the two big Farangs standing up on the train. A gaggle of Beijing fans were sitting further up the carriage. Goodness knows what they made of it all.

Steve and Fah

Pre-Match

It was some relief when we pulled into Buriram. Fah was there to greet us on the platform, from where it was only a walk across the track and a minute's walk to the top-class Klim Hotel. I couldn’t remember being as happy to flop on a bed and then take a shower!

Gary met us outside at 4pm and took us to Up2you Bar for drinks and excellent Thai food. Onwards to the Chang Arena, where the car park was fuller than last time. Our friend had sorted out our tickets in advance. Again, no programmes were on sale.

Buriram’s opponents had started the Chinese Super League with four straight wins, so it was obviously going to be a big test for the locals. The crowd was a disappointing size, but 6pm kick-offs aren’t a huge help for getting from work to the game.

Beijing fans section

The Match

Beijing were certainly serious from the off, going ahead on just two minutes when the star of the show, Cédric Bakambu, turned in a low cross at the near post from Li Lei. United responded and put together some good football, and were unlucky when a defender deflected a cross onto his own post.

However, they were to find the Beijing defence in a resolute mood, with Yu Dabao superb throughout as Pedro Junior, Supachai Jaided, and Supachok Sarachart were all thwarted. Buriram were made to pay for not taking their chances on the half-hour mark. 

Bakambu finished an almost replica goal to the opener, only this time it was Renato Augusto who provided the cross. There were no further goals before the break as the hosts must have been ready to regroup and plan. 

The Democratic Republic of Congo striker Bakambu extinguished home hopes when completing his hat trick nine minutes after the restart, as he bundles home after Wang Gang saw his effort fumbled by United keeper Siwarak Tedsungnoen.

To credit Buriram, they never gave up and continued to create several half-chances. Pedro Junior saw his powerful shot from the edge of the box saved by Zou Dehai. Bakambu missed the easiest chance of the game after seventy-seven minutes. With just over ten minutes left on the clock, Buriram got the goal back they thoroughly deserved.

Luong Xuan Truong and sixteen-year-old Suphanat Mueanta put together a clever move through the defence for the youngster to score. We held out a bit of hope for a comeback. Another quick goal would have set up a thrilling finale, but it wasn’t to be despite Buriram’s valiant efforts. The Chinese side showed just a little more class and deserved their victory.

Post-Match

Post-match, Gary took us to Harley Route 288, a fine sprawling bar run by an amiable fella from Portsmouth. Virtually all the expat blokes wore Buriram United shirts. Many had watched the match there rather than going up the road to the stadium.

From there, we headed to Paddy's Irish Bar, where the Swedish owner was very friendly. I was certainly a fan of the bars of Buriram. Steve and Fah were also impressed. However, they were tired and went to bed, while Gary and I ventured to Speed Hall and its surroundings.

I certainly slept that night, which was just as well. We enjoyed a really good touristy Wednesday after a really good breakfast. Fah wanted to show us her home “village” of Nang Rong. It was as well we had Gary’s car!

Discovering Buriram Province

That was another eye-opener, as Nang Rong turned out to be a town of 21,000 population over thirty miles away! I love doing local cultural stuff, so it was right up my street. Fah seemed pretty chuffed that we’d made the effort as well.

We returned and had a proper look and walk around Khao Kradong Forest Park and the volcano on a blistering-hot early afternoon, where the young monks posed for photos. In the evening, we visited The Swan Bar for another outstanding meal before returning to Paddy's Irish Bar.

We had a good long drink. Unfortunately, my sense of direction led to us getting lost and having a little tiff. I apologised profusely the following morning. By then, I’d licked my wounds in the Castleblack​ craft pub I’d wanted to take Steve to visit.

Perked up, I finished the evening in peak form in Tawandang, an entertainment hall, where I watched local acts and smiled with locals. It was the penultimate night of my trip after all. Steve and I returned on the flight to Bangkok the following morning with lots of memories of a brilliant few days on the road.

Buriram United 0 BG Pathum United 1

Thai League 1 - Sunday 20th March 2022

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 22,079 🎟️ 150 THB (£3.60)

Nakhonchai Air Bus

It was time for another trip to a city that I thoroughly enjoyed, this time with just Steve, after Fah fell ill a couple of days before departure. On this occasion, we travelled by coach on a Nakhonchai Air service, and what a choice that proved to be.

The seats were comfortable and similar to first class on a train. Each had a screen with a full entertainment package, and best of all, you could press a button at any time and have your back massaged. Plus, we got a food voucher when we stopped. Thoroughly recommended.

Our arrival was around thirty minutes late, not that we cared a jot. We walked to the Klim hotel for a quick rinse before Gary and his good lady arrived, and drove us to a usual place for food and drinks before the match.

Training Ground Move

The stadium was busy. We finally found seats right near the back towards the goal line, even if the crowd figure was nowhere near the published attendance for the 7pm kickoff. It would prove to be another frustrating evening for Buriram.

Unbelievably, my record of seeing them lose every time I had visited the Chang Arena would continue, despite them requiring a solitary point to clinch the league title. They were undone by an excellent away team performance that thoroughly merited the win.

The only goal came in the thirteenth minute through a training ground corner kick move, as a hard, low ball was dragged to near the penalty spot from where Sarach Yooyen smashed home on the volley past goalie Siwarak.

Buriram Frustration

The hosts huffed and puffed against a resolute BG side, who prevented the creation of any real, clear-cut chances. An effort over the bar from Theerathon summed up their frustration before the same player bent a free kick over the bar.

Supachai blasted over on the half-volley soon after the halftime interval when fed in. He really should have hit the target, but his effort typified the home performance, which wasn’t impressive to my Buriram supporting friends.

Bunmathan was the pick of the home players, bending a low effort just wide and then threading in Jonathan Bolingi, who was denied by the Pathum Thani defence. It looked like the home side had restored parity when Bolingi squared for Suphanat to net, but the goal was chalked off by VAR for offside.

The away team nearly extended the lead with a curling shot that was tipped onto the post by Siwarak before the stopper was called into action to save another attempt. Bolingi then fired wide when trying to curl an effort past goalie Kittipong Phuthawchueak.

BG should have doubled their advantage from a free kick, when a fine move resulted in a low header wide of the post, before they saw the game out with relative ease. Buriram were still nine points ahead of BGPU with four games remaining.

After the game, it took quite a while to get out of the busy and disorganised car park, from where we headed to AkriKa bar, where the amiable host Geordie and a few regulars provided excellent company and some good local advice.

Buriram United 2 Port FC 3 

Thai League 1 - Sunday 30th April 2023

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 29,461 🎟️ 250 THB (£6)

Perfect Day

Some days stand out in your life as a football supporter, and this was most certainly one of them. I don’t suppose Lou Reid was thinking of me when he penned Perfect Day, but that’s what it turned out to be.

My wife Taew and I set out at just gone 8am from our Suan Kluai home in Sisaket Province, heading west to Surin, where we picked up Gary's partner, whom we were meeting in Buriram. It was great to see them again for the first time since they attended our wedding.

On arrival at our destination, we left the car at the Sita Princess Hotel, where we were staying for the night before Gary drove us to Chang Arena so that I could collect the tickets I’d bought online earlier in the week, just in case it was a complete sellout.

Sightseeing, Lunch, and Football

We headed to Khao Kradong Forest Park and Volcano, with this being my wife’s first visit to the city. We enjoyed a nice walk and took photos before being reunited. We went for a nice lunch with Gary’s 92-year-old mum at the pleasant Book'n Bed restaurant. After a quick siesta, it was time to head to the action.

On this occasion, my pal decided to park on the main road away from what would be a congested car park with such a big gate in attendance. This worked well as the away block was the nearest to it, meaning we didn’t need a specific meeting point at full time. 

There was an outdoor market with food and beers before we reached a pop-up bar yards from our gate, to enjoy a catch-up with some expats I’d met on previous visits. I was quick to point out that, despite Buriram being champions eight times, including the last two, I had seen them lose all 3 home games I had attended. Not that I gave Port much chance of extending that run.

The Match

We went our separate ways after beers, with our tickets being the usual ridiculous markup as away supporters. Port’s players gave the re-crowned champions a guard of honour onto the pitch ahead of the 5.30pm kickoff.

The away side, backed by about 300 fans who’d made the six-hour trip up from Bangkok, started reasonably well. Suphanat saw a near-post header from a corner go over for the hosts before fellow Thai international striker Supachai missed a chance when put clean through with a slide rule pass from Haris Vučkić.

A fantastic passing move from the visitors gave Negueba an opportunity, but his tame side-foot shot saw keeper Siwarak gather easily. The work involved strong play from forward Hamilton, described by some as the Brazilian Andy Carroll. Whatever, he was a handful throughout this encounter.

A Port counterattack from defending a deeply struck set piece saw Negueba play in Pathompol Charoenrattanapirom, whose first touch was poor, and second awful as he wasted a one-on-one. Despite this, I was happy enough if the teams went down the tunnel level at the break, but no prizes for what happened next.

Some faffing about at the back between Tanaboon Kesarat and Bordin Phala allowed Suphanat to nip in and supply Vučkić, who smashed the ball into the roof of the net for the champions. He had to go off with a strain immediately after, but his work was done.

At the interval, beers were available downstairs, but I didn’t bother. There was also a pile of Euro Cakes, a sweet version of a UK cake, which were given out free outside by sponsors, but not allowed within view of the pitch. My wife was told not to eat the tubs of sweets in her bag, either, and I am being totally serious.

Goran Čaušić missed a good chance for the hosts when the ball was dragged back to him, but Port continued to play OK and equalised with a superb bending free kick of around 25 yards from Airton, the third of the Brazilians in the lineup.

Suphanat stung the hands of Port stopper Somporn Yos. The follow-up from Čaušić was easily saved. Just before the hour mark, Port went ahead. Hamilton won a header in the direction of Worachit Kanitsribampen, on loan from BG Pathum United, who scored.

Unbelievably, the linesman's flag was up, but I said straightaway it was a goal because he had come from behind the defender. It was tighter than I initially thought, but VAR overruled the official, and Port found themselves 2-1 ahead. Within three minutes, the scores were level as Supachai was gifted a free header from a corner.

Away Win!

The restart was delayed as Negueba was going spare, complaining to referee Sivakorn Pu-Udom that the Buriram sub, Jonathan Bolingi, made gestures in his direction. The ref clearly didn't know what had happened, booked Bolingi, and made the situation worse by also showing Hamilton a yellow card for his protestations.

From the kickoff, Buriram won possession and fed Suphanat wide. His low cross found Bolingi, who couldn’t connect firmly, allowing Somporn to save as the atmosphere increased. Ten minutes from time, it got very loud in the away section as a build-up was half cleared but fell to Worachit, who finished very calmly. I could hardly believe what I was seeing.

Suphanan Bureerat was denied by the legs of Siwarak as the visitors threatened to extend their lead with another effort coming back off the underside of the bar before Bolingi was fortunate not to receive a second yellow when twice in quick succession he used his hands to push over a Port player in the upper chest.

Post Match

Naturally enough, I was extremely happy, but also disappointed. I know it’s easier when your team wins, but I thought the expat Buriram fans might have been slightly more magnanimous, putting the result down to their poor team rather than offering any praise. Not for the first time, I must add.

We went on to the Astra Bar, a rooftop area on top of the Alvarez Hotel, where it was surreal to hear an expat having a go at the Thai staff for poor service, while a fella from Newcastle 'entertained' the meagre number of customers while singing and playing the keyboard. I did well not to let my laughter show, while my missus told the moaner to calm down in Thai. 

On to Afrika, a bar that doesn’t appear to have a clock, to see Geordie, while I continued asking the locals if they enjoyed the game. We ended in Tawandang nightclub until 3am, where I was singing and dancing with my good lady and three young Port fans. It was incredibly loud, but fun, with live acts and a DJ. I should know better as a 57-year-old!

Buriram United 2 Chonburi 2 

Thai League 1 - Sunday 8th October 2023

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 16,813 🎟️ 100 THB (£2.40)

Pre-Match thoughts with Jamie and Dale

for A Thai Football Podcast

Build-Up

Another great day out as Taew drove us through for lunch at a stunning waterside restaurant with our friends. Before the match, we met up with Dale, Nui and Jamie. I played the interviewer, getting opinions and score predictions. Dale, cheering for the visitors, genuinely feared a severe drubbing. 

Fans of other clubs generally think that Buriram has too much power through their owner, who has a lot of influence. A few weeks earlier, his side got a huge rub of the green from a referee astonishingly appointed despite being from Buriram. An away game was postponed against the table-topping Bangkok United, when games are often played in far worse conditions.

For all that, Buriram has the best stadium in the country, a fantastic recruitment record, and huge support. They had won the domestic treble in the previous two seasons. Think the Man United of Thailand, and you are not far off. They came into this match with games in hand on leaders Port, with opponents Chonburi in the drop zone after seven games.

The Action

An incredible game of football ensued, flowing from end to end throughout, and provided a superb spectacle, at least for a neutral, on a slick pitch in pouring rain, which no doubt added to the excitement.

Chonburi looked panicky in the early stages and conceded from a free header after five minutes when Lonsana Doumbouya bulleted him the third of three consecutive corners. The away side was playing high-risk risk if high-reward football. 

They were thankful their keeper, Patrick Deyto, who pulled off a miraculous save from the scorer as the prophecy of my mate looked like it would play out. Gradually, the visiting Sharks grew in confidence and kept playing in the same fashion and creating chances. 

Lira smashed a shot off the underside of the crossbar while being dominant in the air and looking like a proper player throughout. Both sides were going from it and fashioning opportunities. Supachai should have scored from a header soon after the restart for the hosts. Chonburi were reduced to ten men with half an hour remaining.

Lira was shown his second yellow card. Both his bookings were questionable, leading to no doubt more raised eyebrows around the country. Instead of being deflated, his team found another gear and scored despite a VAR check for offside through Channarong Promsrikaew with twenty minutes to go. 

The away fans were wild with delight in the open corner. Dale had earlier been involved in a huge row with stewards who wanted to confiscate his brolly, protecting him and his wife. Chances were being missed by the hosts before Supachai finished expertly five minutes later. Again, a VAR check, this time for a push, which went in Buriram’s favour.

A Deserved Ovation

Surely that was that. I had said to Gary, high up in the seats with us, that it could easily end 4 or 5-1 as the visitors were out on their feet. Deyto and his defence were performing miracles as the play stretched and turned into something like a basketball match.

However, there was a sting in the tail as the impressive Murillo turned his full-back, cut inside and then unleashed a beauty into the far corner past Siwarak in the home net. Incredible stuff, as Buriram then did everything but snatch a winner.

To their credit, a feature at Thai games always sees the opposing fans applaud their opponents who go across to greet them. The reception offered to the Chonburi players was wonderful to witness and well deserved. Indeed, the noise from the West Zone was impressive all evening.

Beer Time

After the game, Dale said he was gutted that his side hadn’t taken all three points. I was only eight numbers out from winning a bed mattress in the halftime draw. It might have been interesting carting that around the town, mind. A fine Indian feed after the match at Afrika Bar, followed by a ridiculously large session of craft beer at Jiejiu on Thani Alley.

Five fridges full of bottles and cans could be chosen from around the world, with a great concept. You pick them out of the fridge and then pay at the counter, and then sit down, with waitresses bringing you glasses. Live EPL on the big screen and a full house of happy young Thais, with the Everton supporting owner being very flexible with his hours of business.

We returned home with two carrier bags full of empty cans, as my good lady hit upon the idea of fixing them to the garden fence and putting pebbles in them so they would rattle in the wind and scare the chickens away from the crops. She’s dafter than me. My hangover on the way home the following morning was not pretty.

Buriram United 1 Port FC 1 

Thai League 1 - Sunday 12th May 2024

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 31,200 🎟️ 250 THB (£6)

Usual Routine

Back to Buriram in the car, and the usual lunch before checking in at the Klim Hotel. There was plenty of social activity as ever, with four couples in our group, some supporting each side. Excellent fare was enjoyed at the Afrika bar pre-match before drinks near the entrance to the away fans block.

Going to Buriram is like going to a good-level European game, with a great matchday experience. On this occasion, a junior tournament, which had good crowds, was being played out on the nearby training pitches. My friends attending for the first time were extremely impressed.

What we got inside was a wonderful advert for Thai football at a packed Chang Arena as the hosts, requiring a win to secure the title, were held by third-place Port, who were denied a late winner by a very dubious VAR intervention.

The Match

The first twenty minutes were all Buriram before Port found their breath after ensuring that keeper Somporn didn’t have a shot to save. The visitors from Bangkok went ahead when a scuffed effort found its way to Worachit, who slotted past Siwarak Thedsungnoen. The scorer didn’t celebrate as he, and indeed most of the crowd, assumed that he was offside. 

However, VAR showed that he was just on. Thai national team captain Theerathon creates division among opposing fans. He’s an excellent player who delivered some great crosses throughout the game, but as ever, he was involved in some exchanges with the Port fans, who respect but genuinely don’t like him.

Into the second half, Port had taken control of the game and were playing at a slower pace and keeping possession with a really polished performance, creating a few half-chances along the way. They really should have grasped their opportunity when it arose, as they very rarely keep a clean sheet.

Mid-season Buriram signing, Bissoli had made all the difference in them overtaking Bangkok United as they headed towards their eighth title in twelve seasons. The Brazilian was a class act, always in the thick of the action and being a pest to the opposition, while never being short of a word in the ref’s ear.

It was he who found space from a corner to head home after sixty-four minutes despite Somporn’s best efforts. He went close once again from another tremendous, wise delivery, which Port failed to get to grips with throughout the encounter. It was at this point that the away side decided to go for the win, rather than just being content with a draw.

They thought that they had scored a winner around ten minutes from time. A near-post corner got a deflection and went in. Bissoli complained he was pushed. Referee Sivakorn Pu-Udom is a leading Thai official and had an excellent game. However, he was summoned to check the VAR monitor for reasons that those who watched the highlights later still couldn’t work out.

I’m unsure what directive referees are given by the Thai FA, but he decided to chalk off the goal. It caused plenty of anger both in the stadium and on social media. Buriram tend to get many favourable decisions throughout a season, not dissimilar to Manchester United under Sir Alex Ferguson. It's a shame to be tainted in such a way, as the club does so much right. 

After the match, we had a proper session at Jiejiu in town, before bedtime at the Klim Hotel, which was up to its old excellent standards. Back home, I eventually edited a video for my YouTube Channel.

Buriram United 0 Port FC 1

Thai League 1 - Sunday 2nd February 2025

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 31,305 🎟️ 250 THB (£6)

Amazing Experience

An utterly amazing day and night in wonderful company, which is right up there with any football experience of the past. It can be shared by watching the video on my YouTube Channel. It began early with a smooth train ride from Bangkok. Great friends once in Buriram with an excellent pre-match. A fantastic turnout of away fans, and then the match.

I was certain that Port would receive a drubbing, and my unbeaten away team run at the stadium would end. A surprising team selection from interim boss Choke, but every player gave everything that they had, with the winning goal coming from Chinnawat Wongchai after twenty-six minutes.

A Long Night Out

The rest of the game resembled an onslaught, with the hosts having around 80% possession. Somporn, in the Port goal, was inspired while defenders continually put their bodies on the line and restricted the star-studded Buriram lineup to a few chances on goal. Supachai came closest to an equaliser when his shot came back off the post.

The celebrations were joyous and extremely long. We visited bars and then the entertainment zone, finishing close to 3am in Tawandang. The following day was a struggle, but worth it. If only every football day was like this one, but perhaps that’s its beauty and why we savoured it so much.

Buriram United 1 Port 0 

Thai League 1 - Sunday 14th December 2025

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 17,151 🎟️ 250 THB (£6)

Dark Thoughts

Through in the car again, we went for lunch with Gary and mum, reminiscing about the good old days. We met with our friends and headed to the stadium for drinks in the usual place. A large following of Port fans had made the journey in a positive mood. Not so, a couple of hours later.

It is seldom that I leave a football stadium angry in my later life, but the goings on at the Thunder Castle pressed all my buttons on this occasion. The reigning champs won with a goal in stoppage time from Goran Čaušić, but that’s only a bit of the story.

Port were at least equal to Buriram throughout and had spells on top. The refereeing of Torphong Somsing was biased in favour of the hosts, going one step further in the seventy-third minute when, after a VAR check decided to send off Chanukun Karin for an alleged stamp, which was inconclusive to those watching on TV.

Thai Football's Elephant in the Room

Naturally, the pressure grew on the away side’s goal, leading to the winner and then a frustrated Asnawi Bahar receiving a second yellow, leading to a huge melee in the middle of the pitch. It says it all when my Buriram friends said they were lucky to win and were shocked by some of the decisions.

The neutrals I took in the away end with me were completely staggered. Alexandre Gama, the Brazilian Port coach, was fined 100,000 THB for his post-match comments regarding the ref. Incredible when both Muangthong United and BG Pathum United were only fined 50,000 each for serious crowd trouble at their game, with three ending up in hospital.

But that sums up Thai football in a nutshell. Nobody is allowed to criticise officials because the authorities lose face. Buriram seem to get away with anything they want. Or at least that's how it looks to fans of other clubs.

Fun Continues

We headed for drinks at a place near the railway station, where the evening got worse, as an aggressive Dutchman tried to intimidate three of us wearing Port shirts. I was taken aback. Nothing like that had happened there before. The beauty of a Buriram away game is the friendliness and the good night out.

We calmed down with a nice drink in the excellent Castle Black, ironically owned by the football club, before meeting with the others at Buddy By Bus in the entertainment zone, before calling it a night.

Chang Arena (Buriram)

Ground: Chang Arena
Capacity: 32,600
Opened: 2011
Club: Buriram United

When Newin Chidchob moved Thai champions, PEA FC from Ayutthaya to form Buriram United, he needed a stadium to match his ambitions. Nicknamed the Thunder Castle, the Chang Arena is Thailand's grandest football stadium.

This page covers the game I attended, when the stadium was called Buriram Stadium, negating the sponsor's name for matches played in AFC competitions.

My first visit to the stadium and Buriram United's history are detailed elsewhere, while matches from 2019 to 2026 have their own dedicated space.

The Chang Arena has huge car parks, the Buriram United training pitches, along with many retail units where famous brands sell their wares. Next door is the Buriram International Circuit, home of the Thai leg of the Moto GP, among other events.

The football stadium was initially called New I-Mobile Stadium before being retitled Chang Arena in 2017. It has staged several international matches over the years, with its design being similar to Leicester's King Power Stadium, minus the cover all the way around.

Visit as a Neutral Venue

Urawa Red Diamonds 5 Shandong Taishan 0
AFC Champions League Group F - Monday 18th April 2022
👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 321 🎟️ 100 THB (£2.40)

The worldwide pandemic restrictions were still in place in several Asian countries. It caused major disruption to international football and its club competitions. Thailand was selected as one of the countries to stage group games, with the city of Buriram awarded two groups, with two compliant stadiums available.

I needed no excuse to return to the city, with Kao Kradong Stadium staging an earlier game the same evening. This made a 'double' simple, especially with the help of my mate Gary and his car to drive between the venues, with the first game starting at 6pm, followed by a 9pm kick-off.

I took the train and checked into my room at the Klim Hotel adjacent to the station before I was picked up. Food and drink were enjoyed before heading to the earlier match. We were slightly delayed at the second, topping up on the way to the stadium. At least parking wasn't a problem with such a small crowd attending.

Our tickets were printed with the wrong instructions on which entrance to use, meaning a frustrating walk around the perimeter of the stadium. Once inside, it was a case of picking any seats we wanted. It was strange to be in such a huge arena among a sparse crowd.

The Japanese Diamond fans were small in number, but they were extremely noisy. They had an impressive array of banners behind the goal in support of their team, who proved far too strong for their Chinese opponents, who were totally outclassed.

It was one-way traffic in the first ten minutes as Yuta Miyamoto and then Kaito Yasui both had efforts on goal, closely followed by attempts from Yoshio Koizumi and Kai Shibato. Urawa’s Takahiro Akimoto then saw his shot saved by busy Taishan keeper Cao Zheng.

The deadlock was finally broken in the twenty-sixth minute when Akimoto was on hand to side-foot home. The same player was fouled in the box five minutes later. The referee pointed to the spot with the right foot of Alexander Scholz, making no mistake to make it 2-0.

Scholz then provided a cross for Tomoaki Okubo to be denied from the edge of the box by a Zheng save. The Chinese side must have been relieved to hear the halftime whistle, but the lead was extended eight minutes into the second half.

A corner led to Takuya Iwanami setting up Alex Schalk to score from close range with his left foot. Diamonds took their foot off the pedal for a spell, with Baihelamu Abuduwaili going close for Shandong as he was supported by Chen Zhexuan following a fast break.

Fourteen minutes from time, a superb right-footed free kick from Schalk found the top right-hand corner of the net. Kasper Junker saw a low shot saved after being set up by fellow Diamonds sub, Yusuke Matsuo, with less than ten minutes remaining.

Both players went on to go close before the scoring was rounded off by Yasui, who fired home from outside the box. It was a comprehensive victory and an impressive performance. We headed off to see Geordie at his bar, before I enjoyed a good rest to prepare for more football at Kao Kradong Stadium the following day.

Sisaket United Jan 23 - April 24

Sisaket United FC

Ground: Sri Nakhon Lamduan Stadium

Capacity: 9,500

Club Founded: 2012

League: Thai League 1 (current level)

This page features memories and descriptions of the home games of Sisaket United from January 2023 to April 2024. Other pages chart the club history and my first home game, with another covering the 2024-25 and 2025-26 seasons.

Sisaket United 1 Muang Loei United 0

Thai League 3 Northeast - Sunday 22nd January 2023

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 597 🎟️ 40 THB (£0.90)

Travelling to Sisaket

My good lady, Taew, dropped me at Kanthararom to let the train take the strain rather than the slower and more unreliable minivan option. It was also cheaper, with the fare costing just 6 Baht. The local service took around forty minutes.

At the other end, I decided to explore on foot, getting my head shaved for 80 Baht before continuing to Hong Kong Garden, a bar and restaurant, where I was becoming somewhat of a semi-regular. The Cyrille Regis life story podcast must have been good, as I was concentrating so hard that I walked past the watering hole, meaning a trek back. 

Perfect Pre-Match

At least I saw a beautiful temple that I wouldn’t have otherwise come across. Once again, the venue proved to be the perfect place to relax for an hour or so, with its fantastic value for money food and drinks. I sat back and enjoyed some great tunes on the speakers.

Host Peter made me beef and ale pie, chips, and gravy to satisfy my once-a-week western choice. I was longing for some English ale, but to be honest, the cans of Greene King IPA and Marston's Pedigree made me appreciate the local stuff even more. They were beers I would choose well down the list back home.

Stadium Build Up

Before I knew it, it was time for the match, or so I thought. My new taxi driver, Toy, arrived within a few minutes of calling him. I had managed to mix up the kickoff time, and so I arrived at Sri Lamduan Stadium over thirty minutes early in soaring heat.

I took the time to buy a team shirt and baseball cap before heading to the far side of the arena, where I had never previously watched from. Large beers were 70 Baht outside, with admission just over half of that price.

Some friendly local youngsters found my attendance interesting and asked me lots of questions during the King’s Anthem, which they didn’t seem to have much time for. They left me alone to watch what turned out to be a tight, if unspectacular, match.

The Match

It was a very cagey opening with no quarter given. Loei were also pushing for a top two spot and a place in the playoffs and was determined to give nothing away. They saw a cross nearly sneak in, but it came back off the bar in the eighteenth minute.

The hosts took the lead in stoppage time at the end of the first half through a clever wide set-piece move. Full back Khritmak Sompen supplied Neto, whose cross was turned neatly into the roof of the net on the near post on the half volley by Cristian Alex.

At the interval, I wasn’t too worried about a drink and instead watched the skyline turn increasingly red and beautiful. Whoever was playing the tunes on the turntables selected good local ambient music, which I wouldn’t have minded hearing more of.

There was obviously a lot at stake in the contest, which grew increasingly cranky in the second half, when at times referee Warutsom Sompan struggled to keep a lid on. There were some proper nasty late challenges and sneaky boots left in by players of both sides.

Naturally enough, the home fans decreed that the Loei players were the ones to blame, despite United picking up two yellow cards to the visitors' one. Incidentally, the crowd grew as the game continued, no doubt many arriving straight from work.

It was no surprise that other teams in the division struggled for crowds when starting games at 3.30pm. United's gates had also picked up since Sisaket FC had been kicked out of the league, leaving it one side short.

The away team did their best to get back into the contest, and Nonthaphut Panaimthon should have at least made home goalie Itthipon Kamsupron make a save rather than the feeble header that looped over.

Sisaket’s defence looked well marshalled, and the Brazilian duo up front looked a completely different combo to the pair who had come on as subs when I attended the cup match. They were both strong and really wanted it.

As the board was produced to show five additional minutes, I made my way around and saw the conclusion from outside the stadium, looking in. In a frantic ending, Loei piled forward, and the ball fell to Wirachai Buayairaksa at the back post.

Easy Way Home

Fortunately, for the hosts, he showed his defenders touch and screwed the good chance wide. ‘Fire Rumdul’ continued their run and went four points clear at the top of the table. It was probably about the right result.

By now Toy had returned, Taew having booked his services for me earlier in the day, meaning I was back in Suan Kluai within the half hour, ready for my prepared Thai meal and a beer before I went to bed worn out. Another top day concluded.

Sisaket United 4 Ubon FC 0

Thai League 3 Northeast - Saturday 4th March 2023

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 436 🎟️ 60 THB (£1.40) 

After the awful performance I’d witnessed at Surin City the Sunday before, I was hoping for something much better as I headed into town, driven by Suryan and his grandson Sinto for a must-win game for United. We weren’t to be disappointed.

Fire Rumdul took the lead after thirteen minutes when Alex miscontrolled a cross from Phattharapong Phengchaem, who followed up to scramble the ball home after his first effort was kept out by goalie Peerapong Srinok. What followed was a niggly half, poorly overseen by ref Kriangkrai Boonson.

Star Man Phattharapong Phengchaem

A good one-two move between Phattharapong and Alex led to the Brazilian firing wide. I thought that the big fella was lazy the week before, but looked more interested this time, even if he did whine throughout the encounter.

Skipper Jakree Burapha in midfield and front man Oscar Plape were impressive and the pick of the visitors, while the referee left the pitch to loud boos at halftime. Burapha had a free kick saved soon after the restart before a cross from Phattharapong was fired over on the half volley by Alex.

A great, tricky run by Nonthawat Chaotai saw him upended by Ubon’s Satja Sangsuwan, for which he got his second yellow card, and he got the first use of the showers. The spot kick from Alex came back off the post.

However, the lead was doubled on sixty-five minutes when a corner was half cleared and fell to Suphaphon Sutthissak, who scored with an absolute thunderbolt from just outside the box. It was 3-0 when a fine move released Phattharapong, who unselfishly squared for Alex to tap home.

Neto then dispossessed a defender and rolled in Thaweekun Thong-on, whose easy chance was somehow kept out by the busy Srinok. Neto decided to go alone to round off the scoring a couple of minutes from time as he rounded the keeper. A fine display and an enjoyable game in lovely company.

Sisaket United 1 Mahasarakham SBT 0

Thai League 3 Northeast - Sunday 12th March 2023  

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 952 🎟️ 60 THB (£1.40)

Married Life

Now married and officially a member of the family, my two compatriots took me to the match. I was enjoying the experience all the more as we got to know each other, and my Thai was gradually improving to help with conversation.

This was a big game. Both sides had won midweek, and before this penultimate round, Sisaket started four points behind the leaders, who were the visiting team. It even meant around fifty away fans making the journey, a rarity for many clubs in the division.

Big Crowd Buzz

It was immediately obvious that a big crowd was in, both from parking the car and trying to find three good seats together. I was impressed that young Sinto watched the game closely while enjoying his pop and crisps alongside his granddad Suriyan. A couple of other young relatives turned down the invite back at the house. I would be working on them for future occasions.

It was a highly charged game, with chances rare, despite Sisaket dominating possession. Mahasarakham defended well, and keeper Ittikorn Kansrang seemed in command. Alex went close for the hosts, and he really looked like he meant business as he put himself about.

The pattern continued in the same pattern after the restart, with United pressing but unable to find a way through stubborn opponents for whom a draw would have been ideal. Finally, the deadlock was broken when Alex engineered a half-chance, with his low left-footed shot going through a crowd and beating Ittikorn.

It was the least Sisaket deserved, who were roared on by a passionate crowd. That last half hour or so seemed to go on forever, as the hosts gradually decided to hold onto what they’d got. Head coach Anusim got it spot on, bringing on Romário Alves for the closing stages.

He replaced fellow Brazilian Alex and used strength and guile to create danger on the break and hold up play. The star man for the away side had been Alberto Gouvea, but he was marked tightly and grew frustrated by some of the attention he was receiving.

The home team ran down the clock with some tactics that would not have pleased me if my boot was in the other camp before referee Damrong Wangraha blew for full time. We left in good moods as a happy car returned to Suan Kluai ready for food and a rest after what had been a wondrous few days.

2023-24 Season

Sisaket United 0 Rasisalai United 0 

Thai League 3 Northeast - Saturday 23rd September 2023

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 988 🎟️ 40 THB (£0.90) 

Derby Day Build-Up

Derby day in Sisaket and one I was looking forward to. I took the minivan from Kanthararom. I decided to try a Leffe-style and then a cherry fruit beer at Leo’s on Ubon Road, which I had wanted to visit for some time. They had reopened in a new location after a two-year sabbatical owing to Covid, and while looking to find new premises.

It seemed to be a pleasant modern place, with a good menu, if on the expensive side. My Grab arrived to take me to Hong Kong Garden, before heading off to what was a rip-roaring local affair on a quagmire of a pitch after heavy rain throughout the week, and then an absolute downpour an hour before the 5pm kick-off. 

The Action

The pitch at Sri Nakhon Lamduan Stadium wouldn’t even have merited an inspection in many other parts of the world. It would have been called off immediately, but they just get on with things in Thailand. It did lead to an element of farce, but it also added to the entertainment.

Quite how it remained goalless I’m not sure, but there was plenty of entertainment on show. The hosts were on top, but the away side were resolute and extremely determined, with big defender Gideon Chuckwuma putting in an outstanding performance. 

Sisaket had replaced three Brazilians who blew hot and cold the previous season with a couple from the samba nation, along with an Argentinian. The front pairing of Danilo and Damian caused chaos, with Matias Panigazzi just behind them being a general menace. 

An effort was somehow cleared off the line by a visiting defender whose slide was ended by a post and what looked like a part of his body that could have curtailed any chance of Saturday night romance.

No Passion Missing

After the interval, the play became heated with lots of cards being handed out. I would have given Panigazzi a red for a horrible challenge, raking down the Achilles of an opponent, which naturally exacerbated tensions.

I don’t think Glenn Gregory had the Sisaket Derby in mind back in Sheffield in the 80s with Heaven 17 when he sang about no passion missing, but it was an accurate description of this encounter, as no quarter was given.

Late Penalty Drama

Four minutes from time, Rasisalai were awarded a penalty after a scramble in the box, despite the ball ending in the net. The previous week, Natchanon Yongsakool scored and missed from the spot. This time, keeper Adisak dived to his left to keep the kick out.

To compound the misery for Natchanon, he was shown a second yellow card within a minute to receive his marching orders. Honours even at full time, but a reminder that local derbies matter the world over.

Post-Match Fun

Other attractions were the Sisaket Hard Core fans group staging some free prize draws, but the weather put pay to the couple of dancing girls before the match. They performed at the start of the second half up in the open stand, which, for obvious reasons, distracted quite a few of the crowd.

I was taken home by a Grab down dark, narrow country lanes. My new driver, Uan, at times, must have been wondering where the mad westerner was directing him. He was a lovely, friendly chap who would end up being my regular pilot.

At my destination, my good lady was waiting with a couple of fellas who did work on the house and who had just fitted a large TV outdoors under our canopy. This was after I had ordered the wrong size brackets online from Lazada, which they could not get to work.

I’m sure seeing me and my limited skills while under heavy alcohol influence must have been entertaining, judging by the sniggers behind my back. Inevitably, I got everything working as soon as they departed. It’s never boring in the countryside, Isan!

My video report from the game for A Thai Football Podcast

Sisaket United 3 Nakhon Ratchasima United 0

Thai League 3 Northeast - Saturday 14th October 2023

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 758 🎟️ 60 THB (£1.40)

A New Friend

On the train again, I visited Craft & Cold, an expensive craft bar, then my favourite western pub. Peter, owner of Hong Kong Garden, introduced me to a fellow non-league and cricket fan, John, originally from Chester-le-Street, who also went to football regularly in Sisaket. A friendship was born as he gave me a lift to the stadium before we sat together.

I had searched high and low for my Sisaket cap at home before I departed. My Grab driver recognised my name when I made a booking between the two hostelries and collected it from his house before picking me up. I left it in his car three weeks ago! What a great service.

Terrible Opposition

We saw a one-sided and poor game, as Sisaket went 3-0 up before halftime against possibly the worst team I have seen in Thai pro football. NRU were a complete shambles with no redeeming features. They were no better than many amateur teams I’ve watched, having scored one goal in five games.

The energetic Pongsak Boonthot put the hosts ahead after twelve minutes, with a shot that keeper Ehsan Jalil should have saved. The Iranian was in goal last season for Nonthaburi City in the amateur Bangkok Premier League, and on his performance on this occasion, I wonder if he’s even up to that level.

Big Brazilian Danilo headed home number two seven minutes later. The range of the effort suggests the keeper would have been disappointed to see it find the corner of the net. It became 3-0 when fellow samba star Carlos Damian scored six minutes before the interval, looking suspiciously offside when played in.

The lack of communication at the back for the visitors was frightening, with the onrushing keeper and full back leaving it to each other on the edge of the box. Pongsak tucked the ball home, but the linesmen decreed that he was offside, which looked like an attempt to save face as he made up for not spotting the earlier one.

The teams might as well have gone home at halftime. Sisaket sat on what they had. NRU outclassed, got ratty, and made silly challenges which provoked some home players. Referee Chairat Phoolalai was nearly as out of his depth as the away team, not helped by his assistants.

Sisaket United 0 Ubon FC 0

Thai League 3 Northeast - Saturday 21st October 2023

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 822 🎟️ 60 THB (£1.40)

Stalemate

An easy way of getting into town on this occasion, with Taew kindly dropping me at Hong Kong Garden, where I watched what looked like a hopeful start to the England v South Africa cricket. How little I learn.

It was also a frustrating afternoon for the hosts in a derby of sorts, with just 65km separating the clubs in a regional division where some clubs are 5 hours away. Ubon left with what they arrived for, while occasionally offering something in attack. Burkina Faso defender Mounzir Coulidiati was outstanding and should be playing at a higher level.

Neither keeper had a shot to save in anger in the first half, though both managed to flap at crosses, with United’s stopper Adisak noticeably taking his eye off one when he saw forward Torky jump near him.

There was an increase in forward intent from the hosts after the break, whose coach, Mo, once again sent out a side with a very negative philosophy. I wouldn’t have been shocked to see a change before long. Hopefully, to an incumbent with a shorter name.

The Brazilian forward duo of Damian, who put everything in, and Danilo, who looked unfit and not particularly brilliant, were a real mix. Danilo was put through twice for one-on-ones against Ubon keeper Klanarong Wisuttiyanpirom, who thwarted the hapless marksman.

If he had any pace at all, he would have surely tried to round the goalie when the first chance arose on the edge of the box. The second of which was kept in and then saw Argentinian Panigazzi screw wide. Plenty of increased falling over and time-wasting followed.

Good to see lots of youngsters employed as mascots at the game, which attracted parents, some of whom got stuck into the booze and became properly involved, adding to the atmosphere. 

I got home to see the England batting calamity and follow games online, while reading tributes to Sir Bobby Charlton, whose passing was inevitable sooner or later, still hit me for six. I hoped Danilo would watch some of his goals on his phone and take the hint.

Sisaket United 6 Surin Khong Chee Mool 0 

Thai League 3 Northeast - Sunday 29th October 2023

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 952 🎟️ 60 THB (£1.40)

Friends Day Out

This was a cracking day. In theory, no alcohol was allowed to be served as it was a religious day to mark the end of Buddhist Lent. We jumped the gun somewhat. We stayed in town as a couple of friends were staying over and joining us. The hotel served us, as did my regular pre-match choice, and there was beer available outside the stadium. 

Hapless Opposition

Surin KCM made me eat my words about how bad Nakhon Ratchasima United were on their earlier visit. The Surin outfit outshone them in terms of being possibly the worst team I have seen whose players get paid. Sisaket were not fantastic, but they didn't have to be.

It took the spluttering hosts until four minutes before the break before Damian headed home, this just after the visitors, without a point after six games so far, nearly scored. At this point, SKCM looked haphazard but OK. The clueless and defensive-minded home coach had decided to drop Argentinian midfielder Panigazzi for some unfathomable reason.

When he came off the bench, the dynamics of the match changed completely. Within a couple of minutes, Damian added a second on fifty-five, before Phengchaem made it 3-0. It says everything about the standard of the Surin mob that they allowed Danilo to smartly finish with twenty minutes remaining.

The Brazilian puts the big into big number nine and has done a passable impression thus far of a man lumbering around carrying a piano on his back since joining at the start of the season. There’s a footballer somewhere in there, but he needs to shed some weight and get fit. That said, his confidence did improve as the match progressed and the away side waned.

Floodlight Failure

With ten minutes remaining, a few lights went out on the impressive floodlights. By now, some of the visitors were out on their feet, with some virtually giving up. The lights were still better than at many venues. The Surin KCM coach moaned. The ref stopped the game and called the Sisaket boss over to ask what was going on.

The FA Thailand delegate, one of whom is present at each game, marched over and told them to get on with it, which was the same as my suggestion from the stands. Excellent to encounter someone with common sense.

The final few minutes were embarrassing. We wanted the ref to end it as soon as possible to save Surin, who played in good spirits throughout, from any further punishment. Panigazza scored in the ninetieth minute, while Danilo added his second. Not bad to say he had five or six easy chances that he missed.

We continued after the game had finished back at our residence before my good lady and I headed the following morning for an overnight stay in Nakhon Phanom on the Mekong River across from Laos to continue festivities and enjoy some traditional live entertainment.

Sisaket United 0 Udon United 0

Thai League 3 Northeast - Saturday 18th November 2023

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 525 🎟️ 60 THB (£1.40)

In the week leading up to this game, I had lent my family a hand with the rice harvest. It involved raking it so that the sun dried it out and then putting it into sacks. Quite simply, the most physically demanding activity I’ve ever been involved in.

My reward was to attend a big game as the league leaders, Sisaket, played fourth-placed Udon, who were three points adrift before kickoff. I wasn’t expecting a thriller, mainly due to the negative tactics, such as there were any, of home coach Narongthanaphorn. There was plenty of talent in the squad if they had someone setting them up correctly.

Neither keeper had a serious save to make. Damian of Sisaket saw a shot come back off the inside of the post with Udon goalie Adison Bunthawi beaten, while the visitors saw a couple of efforts go narrowly over and had a good claim for a penalty waved away.

The match could be separated into three segments. The first half hour or so was one for purists as each side stuck to tactics and tried to forge an advantage. This was followed by a middle spell where the teams tried to replicate it but were simply not good enough to continue and stick to their discipline.

That led to poor control and niggly fouls as a poor referee tried to sort things out. Much of the second half continued in the same way, only it got more stretched as the players weren’t fit enough to keep up their earlier pace.

A really poor watch, to be honest, but at least it was cheap. The skills of the second-half substitute for Udon, Brazilian winger Abner, were at least worth savouring. Their top scorer, fellow Brazilian Sales, was missing. Crowds were dropping at Sri Nakhon Lamduan Stadium. Yes, it was rice harvesting season, but the home team was failing to entertain.

Highlights for me were meeting a nice Russian chap who travelled down from Roi Et for football and sightseeing, and the sight of a couple of traffic cops watching the game with a beer. Thankfully, some enjoyable food and drink and my regular Grab driver ensured I had no hassle in getting home. 

Sisaket United 2 Khon Kaen 0

Thai League 3 Northeast - Saturday 9th December 2023

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 580 🎟️ 60 THB (£1.40)

A Quality Long Day Out

A long day out was enjoyed on this occasion. Taew, Ben, over from Denmark, and his Thai wife Noi, joined John and me. A pleasant lunchtime was spent viewing the aquarium and then the tower, before HKG lunch.

A straightforward victory for the Fire Rumdul as they consolidated their position at the summit of their division in the third tier. Another example of the negativity and safety of coach Narongthanaphorn, who can strangle excitement out of a game more effectively than VAR.

Ref Receives Advice

The hosts came out of the blocks with great intent and were awarded a penalty in the tenth minute for what looked like a soft foul. Referee Patiyut Monthianart, not for the last time, was making himself the centre of attention. Danilo stroked home the spot kick.

Some baffling decisions followed, with Danilo getting under the skin of the whistler, earning himself a yellow card, with his team being seemingly punished. One of the more imaginative insults shouted from a woman behind me was to accuse the ref’s wife of being from Khon Kaen. Certainly a downgrade from questioning parentage back in the day in North Yorkshire.

Sisaket's best player, Panigazzi, made it 2-0 eight minutes before the interval with a low shot that keeper Thanandorn Pasri should probably have done better with. The star man for the visitors was defender Jonathan Monteiro.

And that was about that. Defensive substitutions followed once Khon Kaen tried to make a go of it after the interval. It was like watching an Italian side of the 80s. Affective but extremely dull. If Sisaket were to eventually go up through the convoluted playoffs, it would prove to be a job well done.

Post-match, it was back to Leo’s. The three overseas players came in two and seemed to be pleasant chaps. Ben decided to offer them his thoughts. Sadly, it was in Thai, and they didn’t understand. All three spoke English! Craft and Cold was visited for more beer before heading home via Godang 24 bar.

Sisaket United 0 Bangkok FC 2

Thai FA Cup Round of 32 - Wednesday 20th December 2023

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 333 🎟️ 60 THB (£1.40)

It was straight to the game and back without libation on this occasion, with Suriyan, my in-law, driving as Taew and I were heading to the capital early the following morning for a Christmas and New Year tour.

A fair result as the impressive visitors went through with two well-taken goals against ratty and one-dimensional hosts who ended with ten men. Both sides went into the game unbeaten in the league and at the top of their respective regional T3 divisions. Sisaket were missing star player Panigazzi, while the away side was cheered on by 20 or so Bulligans.

The first half hour or so was entertaining fare, with both sides playing some nice football on the deck. Chances were limited, but when one fell to Fire Bulls man Wachirawut Phudithip, he smashed home a half volley on the turn, leaving keeper Rapeepat Nasoongchon grasping thin air five minutes before the interval.

Damian, the Brazilian back from injury, somehow contrived not to get anything on a delicious bending free kick from wide with the goal gaping a minute or two later. It would prove to be Sisaket’s best chance to level things up.

Danilo joined his compatriot up front after the break, but the thoughts of my pal John and me came to fruition in the second period. Sisaket didn’t have much of an idea against a well-organised team. They huffed and puffed without invention and didn’t have the nous to try out goalie Natthasan Pakkarano despite having a strong wind at their backs.

There was one midfielder who should have taken up a career in rugby league, as he didn’t make one forward pass in ninety-plus minutes. An excellent move from the proficient visitors, who knew exactly how to take the sting out of the game and fall over at opportune moments, saw Sirodom Konsungnoen finish with aplomb.

Suriyan summed up the hosts' performance rather well. They have no idea, he said in pidgin English. Inevitably enough, their shortcomings led to petulance and sulking of a high order as they blamed their opponents and officials. Indeed, anyone but themselves.

It was tetchy before the second half sub Sutee Chantorn decided to take out an opponent with a ridiculous mid-air lunge, which naturally enough incensed the Bangkok players and led to a long melee. He deservedly received a red card.

Home coach Narongthanaphorn somehow decided that the Bangkok contingent had been disrespectful as he carried his rants on until after full time. His performance was as bad as his tactics. It was not good to see the home bench laughing and high-fiving the dismissed player.

Sisaket United 2 Muang Loei United 1 

Thai League 3 Northeast - Saturday 27th January 2024

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 520 🎟️ 60 THB (£1.40)

Football Continues to Surprise

Joined by friends, Tracey and Sean, over from Scarborough, we stayed at the Gallery Hotel after the game. By then, I was lamenting how football can be a baffling game at times. All season, I was frustrated by the tactics of Sisaket coach Narongthanaphorn. 

A decent side has been assembled, but he had gone for clean sheets above goals scored. Indeed, when the visitors scored, it was the first time in 948 minutes that his team had conceded, but what a difference at the other end.

It was the best game of the campaign at Sri Nakhon Lamduan Stadium, which was quite possibly helped by Loei’s attacking intent, which saw both teams go for it for ninety minutes of action and excitement. The hosts took the lead when a deep corner was headed home by the ever-reliable Matias Pannigazzi at the back post after twenty minutes. 

An Action Packed Encounter

He had struck the post following one of many excellent passing moves constructed by the Fire Rumdul. Diminutive wide midfielder Apidet Janngam was excellent for Loei, always looking for the ball and never wasting it.

Three minutes after the interval, the two Sisaket centre-backs, who have been excellent of late, turned off, which gave halftime sub Kamonchai Somsuk time and space to control before firing a low effort beyond the outstretched arms of goalie Adisak, to the delight of the three away fans behind the goal. 

Some support, with Loei being over seven hours away, crazy really in a regional league. Sisaket piled on the pressure but could not find a way through. It was frenetic stuff, which included some heroic defending. The giant Mali stopper Makan Diawara put his body on the line time and time again, while his side still looked dangerous on the break.

Valuable Winner

When Panigazzi limped off, it looked like a draw was the best the home team would get. Big Brazilian striker Danilo could frustrate, but it’s obvious he'd played at a decent level in the past. He turned hero in stoppage time when he jinked inside and curled a majestic shot into the far top corner from inside the box.

Keeper Thanarat Neao-Olo was left helpless. Even after this, Sisaket remarkably kept going forward. A valuable win and really good performance with the away side fully playing their part as they received a well-deserved ovation from the appreciative home fans at full-time.

We headed off to enjoy lots of food and drink, with live alfresco entertainment by the hotel pool. This was followed by more live music in the venue attached to it, which was open for the very first time. A wonderful time was had by all.

Sisaket United 2 Surin City 1

Thai League 3 Northeast - Wednesday 31st January 2024

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 520 🎟️ 60 THB (£1.40)

Some of Peter's album collection at Hong Kong Garden

Every Day's a Schoolday

I love learning, whether it's about the place I now call home or from the old days back in the UK. I'd taken the train to Sisaket and then sat down with Peter, the owner of Hong Kong Garden, with a 4,000 LP collection, played an excellent old eclectic mix while telling me about his gigging days around St Albans in the 60s. 

It was also nice to meet the head of English at the largest school in the city, who has lived in the countryside up here for over twenty years, and is a former resident of Clitheroe. Such things always added to my day out, which had to be more than just a football match.

Huge Result

That said, this was a big win in the context of the regional third-tier title, with nearest rivals Mahasarakham only drawing 0-0 away to Ubon. It meant that through this win, it was back in the hands of Sisaket with four matches remaining.

The hosts were certainly made to fight until full-time in this encounter. The first forty-five minutes seemed like plain sailing. Visitors, City were very disappointing apart from five minutes before the break, especially for a side in third place in the table. But by then, they were facing a real uphill battle.

Mbengan had missed a sitter when heading over for United in the opening stages, who created several good chances. Danilo opened the scoring after twenty-one minutes with an excellent finish. He doubled the advantage with another goal of the highest quality as he thumped one into the top corner, leaving keeper Jeerasak Phananut helpless.

After the break, coach Narongthanaphorn took off the hobbling Panigazzi and a couple of others, wisely in my opinion, but it led to Surin grabbing the initiative. It was no surprise when Kaisorn Roungraeng pulled one back just after the hour mark. They continued to press, but gradually the home side took back the initiative.

A feisty and decent crowd for a 5pm midweek kick-off was getting stuck into referee Uthai Purase for some of his decision-making, as tempers boiled over on occasions. I personally thought he was fine, allowing the game to flow wherever possible and breaking up petty disputes before they escalated.

Danilo, who was a true warrior playing like a man possessed, came close to his hat-trick when rounding the advancing goalie, but his shot from distance lacked venom, allowing a defender to block when rushing back.

Happy days at full time, especially considering the other result up the road, rounding off a very pleasant few hours on a hot afternoon, increasingly so in the last week. 

Sisaket United 4 Khon Kaen Mordingdang 2

Thai League 3 Northeast - Wednesday 7th February 2024

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 480 🎟️ 60 THB (£1.40)

Fixture Mayhem

The fixture planners at the Thai FA had had somewhat of a brainstorm. There had been no football in Sisaket the previous weekend, so they compensated by arranging home games for both the Fire Rumdol and Rasisalai United on the same midweek afternoon.

John met me off the train, allowing a quick drink and snack at HKG before we attended the first half of Rasisalai United and Muang Loei United just up the road. The official attendance for that game was an overexaggerated 69.

A fantastically entertaining main match ensued. Like the Rasi game, it wasn’t always high on quality, but certainly one where you couldn’t lose concentration. The hosts needed a win to stay top and were at full strength, starting slowly and with an attitude that suggested that they thought that they only had to turn up to win.

KKM had other ideas and contributed royally throughout. They took the lead after nine minutes when defender Bancha Phromkhot curled a superb free kick into the top corner, leaving goalie Adisak helpless. United were creating numerous opportunities which were wasted, with players being particularly adept at mistiming runs and heading over.

The levelled things up after Panigazzi was felled from behind in the box, leaving Danilo to score from the spot on thirty-three minutes, which seemed to awake the big man from his slumbers. Four minutes later, Panigazzi controlled and fired home on the volley, which was about right on the run of play.

However, it was 2-2 just before halftime. The home defence seemed hesitant, which Kritsana Khanwong took full advantage of as he weaved in and out of the motionless opposition before finishing with aplomb. At halftime, we found out we missed a second-half goal at Rasisalai.

Sisaket were given a helping hand after coming out of the dressing rooms, fired up when referee Patiyut Monthianart awarded them a penalty after fifty-six minutes. It was a shocking decision. Panigazza overran and deliberately fell over distraught keeper Aphisit Sonpanya, who’d dived to collect the ball cleanly. Danilo made no mistake from the spot.

He could have been selfish later and tried to complete his hat-trick, but squared for Isaac Mbengan, who had a poor game. He dallied, and the chance was wasted before he was replaced by Phattharapong. The winger was keen to show everyone that he meant business, suddenly showing intent and a turn of pace rarely seen before.

He scored a fantastic solo goal, outpacing the defence seven minutes from time and creating other opportunities. By then, the visiting coach had decided to give as many of the bench a run out as possible, with Mordingdang having nothing at stake. This included the veteran keeper Paphawin Phumphuang, whose first task was to pick the ball out of the net.

Sisaket United 1 Bangkok FC 1

Thai League 3 Final 1st Leg - Sunday 21st April 2024)

👨‍👨‍👧‍👧 3,191 🎟️ 60 THB (£1.40)

Sisaket won their divisional title and were then promoted through the playoffs. This was while we were away in Bangkok and then at the annual Chiang Mai Sixes Cricket tournament, where I served on the committee, and Taew helped behind the bar at the ground.

In the ten days or so after our return, my wife told me that the local village school where we lived was facing closure through funding cuts. The locals were chipping in to try to keep it open. I decided to give them a helping hand in return for the kindness and hospitality that they have shown us since our arrival.

My Roving Report Video covering the day for A Thai Football Podcast

I decided that a 21km sponsored walk from home to the match would be a good way to raise money. All day, the temperatures were in the late 30s. I was so relieved when I had finished, and the sun dropped at the game. I raised a significant amount with friends donating from around the world, but it certainly took its toll on my body.

One of several stops for water and fruit on the route was at my wife’s aunt's. Her 10-year-old grandson, Boet, is mad about football and had his boots on for a kick about as soon as I arrived. Just what I needed! Anyway, he had never been to a game and didn’t know that there was a big stadium in town. Taew asked him if he wanted to go to the match.

He needed no second invitation, and he accompanied my good lady on the route in the car, dropping off towels and water for me before going to his first-ever live game. We got him a souvenir shirt, and he loved every minute. 

John had kindly brought me a pizza from HKG. Taew soaked my aching feet and helped me to my seat in the main stand. I was struggling so much that I only shared a beer with my mate, as I tried to concentrate. I was glad to be able to relax.

What we all witnessed was a fantastic, passionate game of football matched by the raucous atmosphere. Two excellent sides giving everything in the Isan heat. The two-legged final was played between the winners of the playoff groups to decide the overall T3 title. 

My impressions were that it would be a showpiece game to celebrate promotion, a bit like the Community Shield back home. However, it would appear to be important to Thai clubs and their fans. Both sides were unbeaten right through their respective league campaigns. Bangkok had been top-quality when they beat Sisaket in the FA Cup. 

Sisaket, on this occasion, roared on by a large, passionate crowd, showed a different mentality. They held the upper hand in the first half, forcing a couple of decent saves from visiting keeper Yannasit Sukcharoen.

It was more even after the restart, with both sides probing. The visitors took the lead when Wichaya Pornprasart swivelled on the edge of the box and fired low post home, goalie Adisak with a fine finish to the delight of the hundred or so away fans who had made the eight-hour journey.

The goal came on the hour mark with the hosts regathering and fighting back gamely. Shortly after an enforced change, defender Pakornkiat Kaena pushed forward. He played the ball wide, and it eventually was rolled into his path just outside the area. 

His low-side foot effort nestled in the corner of the net, and the stadium went wild. It was as noisy a venue as I’d been in all season. United had strong appeals for a penalty waved away, and then Danilo, who had an excellent game leading the line, headed wide when unmarked at the back post from the resulting corner. 

Then, at the other end, another hard stinging effort from range, a feature of the match from both sides, was parried into the path of Lima, who put the ball away. The linesman flagged for offside; later replays revealed he was onside.

The match had plenty of niggle, and aggression, which added to the occasion. Argentinian Panigazzi must have felt at home. It was everything anyone could want from attending, including two excellent goals and contentious refereeing. On this showing, both sides would be just fine in the second tier. But it was so much more to me.

I had done something good. Right up there was introducing young Boet to live football. When we dropped him off, he wanted to find the highlights on YouTube so he could watch them again. That was priceless.

So good vibes all round, especially when the horse R Bernard won a race at Stratford and some of my mates won money after betting on it. Sisaket is a football city. The vibrancy was a delight to behold and be part of.