Why I Love Football in Sisaket, Thailand

                      

Football support often comes down to geography, family, or circumstance. Some people inherit clubs through generations, while others discover new allegiances later in life.

In my case, moving to Sisaket in rural Thailand unexpectedly gave me not one local club to follow, but two.

Attending a Sisaket FC match in 2018
I'm not sure the stadium has been cleaned since

In my case, I am a Scarborough fan, as were all the elder members of my family, with Hull City offering me the chance of some bigger games on a visit to a larger place. When I moved to London, it was Hendon that I had an affection for when I couldn’t travel north. 

My holidays to Thailand saw me get to any games I could, eager for new adventures and to find unknown pleasures. Port FC became my favourite side, as they offered me the best matchday experience in Bangkok. However, things changed halfway through 2022.

I had met and become close to a lady while I lived in Minburi, who suggested we might enjoy life together in her home province of Sisaket. I visited the city on a whistlestop Isan tour in 2018 and took in a game against Nakhon Ratchasima in the League Cup. The city seemed fine to me, and the people were warm and friendly, so why not give it a go?

The Fall of Sisaket FC

Things developed pretty quickly between the two of us, as I fell in love with the people and the country life I was being offered, with the added chance to go and watch some football. It was the season that Sisaket FC were to fold, be disbanded and thrown out of Thai League 3 after a massive wrangle and dispute with Esan United. 

They had enjoyed a good history, previously playing in the top tier of Thai football, and filled the stadium on occasions, losing 1-0 to Buriram United in the 2015 League Cup final. Fortunately, another club, Sisaket United, formed in 2012, took over sole tenancy of the dated and dirty Sri Nakhon Lamduan Stadium and reached the playoffs in 2022-23, my first season of watching them. 

What came as a shock when my future wife drove me around the area was that there was a second club playing in town in a huge stadium that I was previously unaware of. Rasisalai United were competing in their debut season in the Thai League 3.

The more modern SAT Stadium

This was great news, especially after moving full-time to the area in February 2023, as it meant that there were two teams to go and watch. I quickly worked out that it would be possible to get to see games at Ubon UMT Stadium and other venues in the nearby cities once dropped off in Kanthararom, twenty minutes from us.

Sisaket is mad about football, with the province being fiercely proud of its people and teams that represent it. I often tell friends about its vibe, being one of community and taking me back to being a youngster in England, before attitudes and cultures changed for the worse. I quickly discovered that quite a few people went to watch whoever was playing, whether it be Sisaket or Rasisalai.

Looking towards "our" VIP seats

The following season, Rasi, a town around 40km from Sisaket city, had a distinctly average season, in front of crowds of around 300. Because their town has no suitable venue, they continued to play at the SAT Stadium in Sisaket. 

Sisaket United had a superb season, winning promotion and finishing overall runners-up in Thai League 3. While the tactics of coach “Pat” could sometimes be dull, they were effective, with the excellent Matteus Panigazzi and Danilo leading the way.

Naturally, interest grew along with attendance in the second tier. Rasi owner, the often-excitable Nuchanart Jaruwongsatian, was not about to see her club left behind. Arnon Bandasak was installed as coach, along with the arrival of three Brazilians: Ramon Mesquita, Gilberto Macena, and Alberto Gouvea. 

My pal, John, and I had met Alberto going into a Sisaket match and asked him how he thought he would get on. He was no joker. Alberto smashed through the twenty-goal mark as Rasisalai swept teams aside on the way to becoming national Thai League 3 champions.

Derby Day, and more importantly, a quality deal at a quality bar to get into the mood.
Football will always be far more than 90 minutes to me. It's a day out.

The team did even better than Sisaket had the season before, becoming national Thai League 3 champions as crowds grew, merchandise sales rocketed, and opponents were regularly swept aside. All this while Sisaket finished outside the playoffs despite showing promise on occasions.

Derby Days in Sisaket

The local derby between the two sides early in the 2025-26 season attracted an official crowd of 4,458, to which a thousand can be added, as kids don’t pay. They played out a magnificent 3-3 draw, while “Uncle Chuay”, the new coach of Sisaket United, formerly in charge of Sisaket FC, oversaw an improvement in their fortunes.

A big crowd at the derby

With one game before the mid-season break, Rasisalai sit at the top of the table and are still unbeaten, with Sisaket in third place. Two sides are promoted automatically, with the next four entering the playoffs. We are being spoilt for entertainment and matchdays in town.

Two Clubs, Two Different Experiences

The two experiences do differ. As mentioned, Sisaket’s home is decrepit, filthy, and a health hazard. It has a track around the pitch, but importantly, the stands are in a straight line, meaning not too much distance from the pitch. 

The fans are generally older, following the province’s traditional club, and are extremely passionate and vocal, with officials and visiting players being left in no doubt that they are the enemies. It’s horrible, the toilets are shocking, and the pitch is a disgrace, with some crazy people adding to the entertainment. I love it, especially on the open side.

The SAT Stadium is a bowl with curved stands around its running track, meaning it is a far greater distance from the pitch, and lacking in intensity, despite plenty of noise being made. The fans are generally younger and more polite. 

We sit every game in the VIP area, near the partners and families of the players, basically because we did when hardly anyone attended, so we continued to do so, becoming accepted as part of the furniture.

What will happen if one or both clubs win promotion to League 1 is anyone’s guess. It will take a lot of money to improve the squads. Questions are already being asked about whether the overseas players, now advancing in years, could cope at a higher level.

The pitch at Sri Nakhon Lamduan Stadium
Even worse than normal

Why Football Means More Than Results

Football has always been about more than the match itself for me. The beers beforehand, the conversations, the travelling to the ground, the familiar faces — that’s the real attraction.

Football day is my day out, and I must enjoy it. Results don’t matter if I have a good day. You see, we’re all different.

Why I Love Living in Sisaket

And that I think is why I love living in Sisaket so much. We have a small golf course, so we can enjoy a round. There is great food to be had, with bars too. It’s easy to walk up to the stadium and drink outside or take a beer to our seats. There is no hassle with tickets, and we get to know regulars. It’s the ideal size for me. I do worry some of it might diminish if either side went up, along with some heavy defeats on the pitch.

Under a Blood Red Sky at Sisaket United

The good thing is, I have the fallback of knowing that teams like Kanthararom United will enter the FA Cup along with amateur sides from Ubon Ratchathani, with a semipro league entertaining me in the new year, with the chance of a few days finding new bars and restaurants, making new friends, as well as an occasional game of golf.

Best of all, I live among people who love their football in whichever way they choose to support their local teams.

Kanthararom United

Kanthararom United FC 

Ground: Sisaket Rajhabat Stadium

Capacity: 2,000

Club Founded: 2012

League: N/A (current level)

The province of Sisaket takes its football seriously. As well as having two clubs flying the flag at the top end of the Thai League, it also has some other amateur and semi-pro clubs of note. Among them are Kanthararom United.

About the Club 

Kanthararom United FC is an amateur football club representing the small market town of the same name on the road between Sisaket and Ubon Ratchathani. 

In 2017 and 2018, the team entered the Thailand Amateur League without any success, as well as the Thai FA Cup in 2018, when known as NBN Kanthararom United, they lost 3-0 to JL Chiangmai United, with the tie being played at SAT Sisaket Stadium in front of 240 fans.

The side returned to the FA Cup in 2022-23, going out 2-1 away to Khon Kaen in the first round with Jeerawat Thonglue in charge of the team. Fellow amateur club, Mahanakon Khon Kaen, ended any hopes of progression in the competition in 2023-24 with a 3-1 victory in the Qualifying Round.

Kanthararom did not enter the following season, but returned in 2025-26, going out once again 4-1 to Khon Kaen in FA Cup qualifying, with the game being switched to Sisaket Rajabhat University Stadium, as Jeerawat remained in charge of the team.

Despite playing in the national cup, Kanthararom do not play regular league football, with much of their activity centred around the small-sided NBN Arena pitch, on the main 226 Road, where local competition takes place.

My visit

Kanthararom United 1 Khon Kaen 4

Thai FA Cup Qualifying Round - Wednesday 24th September 2025

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As the amateur team from my nearest town doesn’t have a suitable venue in Kanthararom, they switched the match to the Sisaket Rajabhat University Stadium, a few miles up the road.

They gave it a good go, too, against the pros from Thai League 3 Northeast. Quality and fitness were decisive factors in the end of an entertaining game played on a glue pot pitch in good spirits, which was sensibly refereed.

Khon Kaen went into a two-goal lead with efforts from the impressive Sakunchai Saenthopho in the second minute and then the excellent Charin Boodhad on the half-hour mark after he had earlier missed a penalty, as the rain teemed down before clearing near half-time. It looked like a large score was on the horizon.

However, the hosts gradually got back into the game and missed two easy chances, playing enterprising football at times despite being porous at the back. The second missed chance took some believing as a forward sliding in at the back post cleared the ball from a yard out.

The visiting coach brought on Brazilian forward Caio when Kanthararom looked like they might sneak a goal back. He was excellent, helping Charin to a second. The home team did score when a low cross was put away at the back post by Arnon Thongphanya, before the final kick of the match saw Caio put away a penalty. 

I’d met my mate John before the game for food and drink at Leo’s town, as we knew there should have only been half an hour before the second part of our extravaganza got underway. The weather certainly played a part in the Sisaket United v Padriew City game.

My Roving Report for A Thai Football Podcast

Pre-Season Friendlies. What do fans learn?

 Pre-Season Friendlies: What do supporters really learn from them?

Sisaket United 2 All Star 3

Wednesday 16th July 2025

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Last week, around the world, the pre-season friendlies began with a smattering of grand titles given to some of them to try and add to their prestige, with teams sometimes competing in smaller tournaments with absolutely nothing riding on them. Thailand is no different.

My attention was drawn to a thread on the excellent Non League Matters Forum entitled “What are friendlies telling you about the season ahead?”, wanting feedback from those who had already attended games. The general consensus was “very little”, with managers and clubs’ socials spinning it in whichever way they think benefitted them.

A win would typically be described as an excellent morale booster, with the new signings being a stroke of genius and a pointer to things to come, while defeat was seen as being good to get some miles into the legs of players rather than just training. Much of which, of course, exists to satisfy supporters and help sell merchandise and tickets, while ensuring the optimism continues to build until reality strikes.

Anyway, with my local club Sisaket United having announced six friendlies, but only one at home, it seemed churlish not to go and meet my mate John and see what we could decipher. Here are some of the key things that I picked up.

• The match probably shouldn’t have gone ahead on a waterlogged mud bath. The pitch was heavily chewed up throughout, and while in a sensible world, at least a groundsman would use the opportunity to roll the surface and take advantage of the weather, it will be left to dry with divots going hard, ensuring the pitch will be equally hopeless when it dries.   
• It rains heavily in the wet season in Sisaket. Very heavily. So heavily that the storm five minutes before we were due to play golf abandoned our plans, rendering the course unsuitable, this two hours before the football in the stadium next door was to commence.
• Yorkshire bowled very well v Lancashire in the T20, which was rerun from Friday, we watched in Hong Kong Garden instead of the golf, immediately putting a smile on my face. 
• The two-for-one pints on the promotion of Mahou in Leo’s post-match were excellent value, as was the standard of the bangers and mash.
• My wife and I have found an excellent place for food and coffee on the main road into town, on the forecourt of a Shell gas station, no less.
• The toilets have not been cleaned in the Sri Nakhon Lamduan Stadium since I first went in September 2022. Goodness knows how long before that, and counting. They smell like you can imagine, being frankly a disgrace, and quite possibly a health hazard.
• Ditto the seats in the stand. Yesterday, we were given the option of sitting in puddles accrued in the bucket seats or choosing those at the back under the roof, infested with bird droppings. Another disgrace, and something so simple for the club to sort out, even as tenants, by hiring a couple of locals to clean the seats and the toilets before each game.
• The bow-legged physio is still there, quite possibly the slowest in Thai football. A pleasant old boy, calling him a physio is akin to calling me a chef for preparing a cheese sandwich with a mug of tea after my siesta. He goes on with spray and water.
• Hardly any of the Sisaket team on display will feature in the first team squad, or at least I sincerely hope not. The young goalie who was replaced, coming off smiling after shipping in three goals I’d have fancied myself to save, should be particularly concerned about his career prospects, should they include professional footballer anywhere in the description. I suspect many were trialists whom the new coach decided to take a look at. One was withdrawn not with an injury, but what I would describe as avoiding further punishment, so bad and unfit was he.

And that’s probably about it. I shouldn’t really have expected too much more either. If I did, I was being naïve and suffering from amnesia, as it’s the same every season. At least there was a bit of intrigue surrounding this fixture, which had my imagination doing overtime on the drive into town.

During my many years assisting with the running of cricket events in this part of the world, we would sometimes need an extra team to assist with the logistics, so we would put together a hybrid side and call them “All Stars”. What they were, in effect, consisted of those who couldn’t get a game with the team they’d travelled with, solo attendees, and anyone else whom we could convince to play after a couple of beers.

It wasn’t unusual for a bloke to head out innocently for the evening with a lady in tow, for him to have to explain to her that she had a free couple of days because a set of blokes he’d never previously clapped eyes upon had convinced him that cricket was a great idea.

As it transpired, this All Star team originated from Paris, an Academy, according to one of the two coaches when I delved trying to find out some info from behind the benches at the first of two breaks. The game was being played in three periods of thirty minutes. The All Star group apparently also have a network in Thailand. In football, presumably, but one never knows for certain over here. The players and coaches spoke English or French, with some a bit of both. We thought we recognised one of the coaches, maybe from being previously an assistant at Bangkok FC.

All were available for hire should any club wish to negotiate with them. There was the Yasothon FC coach in attendance, and I wouldn’t be surprised if representatives of other clubs hadn’t gone along for a decko. Some of the players weren’t bad. Some were. They were physically stronger than the Sisaket lads and went into a 3-0 lead. We headed off after an hour and missed Sisaket scoring two in the final period.

All Star guns for hire. How many will get pro contracts?

The All Star mob played in a kit without numbers; only some of the Sisaket players had them, while the pitch had not been marked, with penalty areas, halfway, and touchlines being designated by cones, some on the pitch. Not that it bothered the players, which in a way shows just how pampered some pros really are. We were ten minutes late starting, waiting for a linesman, allowing me to get my first "get on with it" of the season shout from the stand, which was pent up inside of me after watching the England v India Test match on TV.

We were soon perusing the menu in Leo’s and trying to work out what we had learned. Very little, although in a rare optimistic moment, using plenty of guesswork, I suggested to my friend that Sisaket will be more than OK this season. And that is what pre-season friendlies are to supporters. Guesswork and a way to fill the void before the season begins.

The one thing that was for certain was that entering a football ground, having a chat with others, and watching the players do their thing at whatever level while discussing it, is still as magical as ever. Bring on the fixture announcements!

 Article Originally Published in July 2025

 

My 2025-26 Pre-Season Musings

 My pre-season musings - 8th July 2025

It’s that time of the year once again when football supporters all around the world have no games to attend, instead filling the void by trawling any means of information for stuff about their team that they hope will deliver them hope and make all the difference.

Thailand is no different, although sometimes the communication leaves a little to be desired, which I will touch on later. I have noticed this year that more clubs seem to be advertising their season ticket offers and unveiling their new playing kits a little earlier, or is that just me? Maybe I’m using better sources.

More and more groups on social media are posting, some for the first time, about transfer rumours and who will sign for whom, particularly in the case of foreign players. Even in my few bored moments, I find myself trying to find the name of some unknown player on one of the online sites, often misspelt when translated, to see their career stats.

The sad fact is that in many cases, that gives me as much indication of the ability of the next import who’ll often flatter to deceive, mainly in the lower divisions, as those signing them. The players in question quickly decide or realise that what the club or the agent sold them doesn’t quite match up to reality, 

Such players become part footballer, part holidaymaker with the local hotspots and those serving food that they are used to, feeling the benefits. Meanwhile, the dedicated pros still around wonder why they are bothering.

COMING SOON. The excitement builds!

It never fails to amaze me just how many clubs are duped into signing a player on the evidence of a small YouTube highlight package, inflated stats, and the thought of the said signing winning favour among local support, as the vanity of the owner is increased further. Some even go on to pay their players in full until the end of the season.

In fairness, it’s not easy owning a Thai club, especially outside the top division. It is a quick way to spend money without much return, with meagre attendance figures going nowhere near covering the outlay, with sponsorship and TV deals lessening the financial black hole a little. 

Of course, better marketing and putting a sound infrastructure in place would improve things, as well as proper recruitment, but those things seem for the birds as things stand. Asking for outside help would equate to a loss of face, which is as bad as it gets for an influential person in the Land of Smiles.

I can also see why the official pages of clubs on social media don’t make announcements about new players when sources run by fans are full of information. A lot of which is inaccurate, with clickbait being offered in return for likes. 

They are fed rumours by players, coaches, and agents. Some of which are designed to try and press the club into making a new signing or increasing the salary of a player if it appears online that others are interested in them. It makes me long for printed newspapers and respected journalists dealing in facts.

Will they or won't they?
The guessing game continues as a few more likes are accumulated.

It's the classic playbook used everywhere, as the games of cat and mouse continue, hoping to get a few more flights home out of a club, or maybe a vehicle and accommodation being paid for. Many owners, understandably lacking football expertise, take the bait, and the cycle continues.

All of which is played out while vital things that could make a massive difference, even more so as the rain falls heavily during the off-season, are ignored. Take one of my local clubs, Sisaket United. I thrash my way around the golf course next door to the Sri Nakhon Lamduan Stadium. The goals are still up from last season. The pitch resembles where my ball lands at times.

Even in provincially owned stadiums, surely a club could approach the local authority in charge and ask that, at the club owners' expense, a heavy roller be hired to flatten the pitch and carry out reseeding work. 

Then the players have a chance of playing on something fit for modern purposes and see passes roll in the direction that they are meant to, without making the receiver look like an idiot as it jumps up and hits them on the knee.

A very uneven Thai football pitch

Maybe employing qualified medical staff or building a local partnership in return for free advertising might not go amiss, instead of having their investments treated by enthusiastic amateurs.

Pre-season friendly matches are already being played as trialists are weeded out, while fans wait eagerly for announcements about fixtures for their chance to see the team in action and buy the merchandise. It won’t be long before coaches are sacked, and the fans see their hopes of success disappear for another season.

The only guarantees are that Buriram will become even more dominant, rumours will be flying around about clubs folding or foreign players not being paid, it will be lots of fun for very little cost, and the beers will be cold.

Article Originally Published in July 2025

An English Footballer in Thailand

This video was compiled at the match between Sisaket United and Marasarakham in the Thai League 2 in February 2024, featuring English defender Charlie Clough, his career, and time in Thailand.

You may like to look at my YouTube Channel, which has many more football and sports videos, as well as visits to Thai cities and the culture and festivals that make the country so special.

Sunday Bloody (Brilliant) Sunday

 Sunday Bloody (Brilliant) Sunday

Sisaket United 2 Nakhonsi United 1

Sunday 15th December 2014

Thai League 2

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It had been a cold spell, relatively speaking, in the remote countryside of Sisaket by our home for a week or so. This led to me feeling a bit under the weather with a cough and chest complaint. It might also be put down to getting on in years and overdoing things for the previous month.

Winter Blues in Sisaket

As the wind howled on Saturday night, I stayed indoors and watched some EPL action using the best-known cure to man. Some single malt Scotch whisky with cheese and biscuits. Well, it certainly worked for me over many years anyway. It helped me sleep and forget the idea of missing the match the next day.

There was an extra special reason for me not to. I love my matchday, ensuring that I squeeze every last drop out of a few hours away from home. While I equally adore the peacefulness of our abode and having an occasional cycle ride and generally relaxing, it is important to have a chat in English. It is the one day of the week when I eat mostly Western food. And of course, the football fills in a couple of hours of the adventure.

Friendship Through Football

While I have no problem keeping myself entertained and going to a match alone, it is generally more enjoyable being in the company of others. It provides conversation and opinion, often pointing out things you miss in your own private cocoon. 

Indeed, it was while I was chatting to Peter, the amiable owner of Hong Kong Garden, my pre-match venue of choice, that he happened to mention expats he knew who never went anywhere and spent their lives in a room working online.

John, my friend and fellow Sisaket fan, was away for the foreseeable future. I badly missed meeting him and going to games together. In the meantime, I attended matches with friends visiting the area who seemed to enjoy the experience of what is a special part of the world to me, as well as what matchday brought. 

Indeed, it was friends visiting the previous week that would lead to me being introduced to a new ally. The write-up of that day, for those who read my scribblings, can be enjoyed here.

A New Friend

Anyway, it was in Leo’s after the match that we came across Per, a passionate Arsenal supporter from Tromsø in Norway who lived in Sisaket. If that makes any sense. My only connection to his home city is remembering Chelsea playing there on a snow-covered pitch on TV. It was a conversation ice-breaker, so to speak, especially as Per spoke good English, like most of his countrymen.

We became friends on Facebook, and I sent him a message leading up to the match. The amazing thing was that although Per loved football, he had no idea of any clubs or leagues in Thailand, which says everything about the potency of local marketing. 

The Excitement of Discovering Football in Sisaket

He seemed astonished and equally delighted when I told him I went to most home games. Even more so when he discovered that the city had a second stadium where Rasisalai United play in the third tier. 

He messaged me just as I alighted the train from Kathararom and headed for my food and beer. We later met outside the Sri Nakhon Lamduan Stadium ahead of schedule, with him as keen as mustard. 

We wandered around to the far side, where I knew there would be a better atmosphere and settled down to beers on a cold and windy night, served by the usual friendly ladies on the stall, as he tried to take it all in.

He told me of his football experiences through work, going to games in London, the expensive nature of it, and the wonderful people he had met along the way. It was great to meet someone else who was clearly enjoying the whole experience, even at an early stage.

Wonderful Memories

I often lament how I would love to find the same buzz once more as my initial taxi ride from Don Muang Airport in 2004, and seeing the incredible sights which grabbed my heartstrings, followed by a night downtown. Also, my first taste of Thai football. If someone could bottle those emotions, then surely, they’d be a millionaire. Seeing someone else getting similar enjoyment is not a bad second best.

We headed upstairs to watch. His first comment was on the state of the pitch, saying he thought it resembled The Dell, from Southampton’s old home. He knew his stuff, quickly sussing out that the ref could be easily manipulated. The hosts, pushing towards the playoff places, went ahead through Caique Ribeiro in the early exchanges.

Big Match Action

Fellow Brazilian Danilo then missed a chance that I would have been upset to fluff. Per thought it was wonderful that this previously unknown competition had Brazilians playing in it. Danilo was impressive every week with his strength and game management. 

If only the big fella could finish with the same aplomb that he is said to when polishing off meals in certain local establishments. But then again, we wouldn’t be watching him ply his trade in the second tier of Thai football if he were highly competent in front of goal.

Nakhonsi had been on an awful run of form. Despite this, they played with a surprising amount of confidence, with some clever flicks and smart passing movements. They brought around twenty fans with them, showing some real dedication to travelling nineteen hours by road. 

My friend was bang on the money when he said it was not fair to give them the worst view in the entire ground. He couldn’t believe it when I explained that they were also charged more for the privilege.

The hosts were made to pay for missing their opportunity when Bianor Neto headed home from a narrow angle from a corner with Sisaket goalie Adisak flapping like a loosely fitted letterbox as usual. 

It was soon after that that referee Piyapong Thonkhain and his nearside official got in on the act, or at least they should have done. Wongsakorn was fouled by a visiting defender, with the offence clearly inside the box. The official gave a free kick outside the area. His assistant offered no help. 

Who'd Be a Referee?

It was as well that the bloke behind me in the stand from the previous week was missing. He’d have required hospital treatment. Astonishing stuff, but highly entertaining for those without too much skin in the game.

However, it was the ref who in the end decided the game in the second half when he gave Sisaket a penalty for an offence that seemed to be making up for his previous error of judgement. The crowd certainly played their part in helping him make up his mind. They can be a feisty bunch once they’ve had a beer or two. Danilo slotted home the resulting spot kick with eleven minutes remaining on the clock. Lamduan saw the game out for another three points with another unconvincing performance. 

We headed back to where I was due to be picked up, and where Per had parked his motorbike. By the open gap below the away section, a farang was applauding the Nakhonsi side, who’d gone to acknowledge the magnificent support that they had received. We joined him.

Yet Another Farang

I commended him on his loyalty, making such a journey only for him to reveal he was a Sisaket fan who lived an hour north of the city. Si was originally from South Wales but had become a Hull City fan, the bigger club I follow in England, after he'd studied at the university there. 

It seemed inconceivable that our paths hadn’t previously crossed. He told us where he sat for home games, so hopefully, that would lead to another friendship being created by attending Thai football. 

A Near Perfect Day

What a splendid day. I was so overcome with emotion that my wife had to call my driver after I left my phone in the back of his car after dropping me off. I then recalled most of the day to her. Often repeating myself. What a lucky lady.

For reasons of which I have no idea, she went to bed and didn’t want to watch the Brighton v Crystal Palace game with me, so I made the best of the company of the remaining whisky and snacks before bed. It could well have been the last live game that I attended in 2024. I'd certainly done it justice.

The Crusher Tribute Act

Stars on Sunday

A Tribute Act to my mate Crusher from the Bloke Behind Me

 

Sisaket United 2 Chanthaburi 1

Thai League 2

Sunday 8th December 2024

Attendance: 1,311

Tell Me Why, I Don't Like December

December has always been a strange month for me. I have never really enjoyed Christmas, and all the fuss connected to it, which at times in my adult life affected me mentally. I’ve no idea why. Perhaps spending so many years as a single person or the emotion involved, along with drinking too much, possibly lowered my resolve. 

It has admittedly become easier since 2021 through my move to Thailand, being in a relationship, and being in a place where it’s not heavily celebrated.

A few days before Santa was getting ready to dish out gifts in 2020, it was the height of lockdown during Covid and a miserable time without seeing friends, with pubs shut down and no sport to attend. 

Losing My Dear Friend, Crusher

I had bought lots of food and beer and returned to my home of the time in Northwest London, and started drinking when I received the awful news that my good friend Crusher had passed away. I drank an awful lot that night.

David Johnson, to give Crusher his Christened name, and I had become friends in the early part of the 1987-88 football season. I had been aware of him at Scarborough matches, this big bloke, a couple of years older than me, who appeared to be permanently angry during a game. 

By then, I had begun to work as a Postman with Crusher’s dad, George. He was another of whom the term “does not suffer fools gladly” was invented. Like his son, he was extremely honest and loyal.

Sunday League teammates

How We Became Friends

I initially invited Crusher to join us in a car to a midweek away game at Hereford, and a friendship was born. We had plenty in common, be it beer, pubs, playing local football, or going to Scarborough FC, as well as cricket. Our views on life were around the same, as well as our political beliefs. 

We ended up going all over together, supporting Boro and England, both football and cricket, as well as visiting Europe and Australia and becoming teammates and drinking partners for British Gas FC while also frequenting the town's pubs together. I'm sad that, like my parents, Crusher didn't get the chance to see me enjoying life overseas as a married man, especially after all the support he gave me.

From Crusher With Love

The Big Fella

Those who never met him are much the poorer. He was there to listen, remaining calm, offering a solution, but only if asked, and generally being a rock. He loved laughing and living life and was immensely popular, being able to tell great stories. 

If he had a pint, a newspaper, predominantly to do the puzzles, and some music, he was happy, particularly sitting at the bar in The Cask pub. It says it all that old mates run an annual coach to a Scarborough Athletic away game each season in tribute and to remember him.

Players and Officials Beware!

It was in the Cask establishment that many a quiet couple got to hear Crusher if they happened to be sitting anywhere near a TV when Liverpool, his other love, were playing. His range of profanities towards the referee and several opposition players was as good as any I’ve yet to hear and formed entertainment of its own. It was repeated watching Scarborough from the terraces. 

The match officials certainly knew he was in attendance. Certain opponents got extra special treatment. I’m not sure what Russ Wilcox ever did wrong when he wore various opponents' shirts against us, but I swear his first move after running onto the pitch was to look across and listen for the first bit of feedback from the big man, which would continue for the following ninety minutes.

Among his classics was the beauty delivered to Paolo Maldini. “You’re only in the team because your dad is the manager”. Any Aussie cricketer, particularly Ricky Ponting, except for anyone playing as an overseas signing for Yorkshire, received special attention. I’m not sure I’ve ever seen a happier man when we celebrated an Ashes win together on his birthday at Sydney Cricket Ground.

Thai Fan Culture

I didn’t think I would ever meet anyone more ratty during a game who supports a team while I lived in Thailand. There is a large lady who shouts incessantly at Port FC in the top corner of B Zone. I wouldn’t dare be late home if I lived with her, but she is more of an encouraging nature. I think. And of course, some lead the orchestrated cheering while using a megaphone. 

Astonishingly, clubs can be fined for audible chanting, accusations of cheating towards the officials or the administrators in Thailand. Good luck ever introducing that elsewhere.

Relaxing at the Football

I’m different to most fans in Thailand. While I cheer for Port FC when in Bangkok and Sisaket United when at home in Northeast Thailand, I attend any game I can and don’t get upset by the results. 

To me, the match is to be enjoyed as a part of my weekly day out. I generally find those ex-pats who get too involved become frustrated, somehow expecting the same experience and levels of organisation and structure as when watching football in their Western home country. That will never happen.

I find it far more fun to go along, have a few beers, have a cheer and then go home and look forward to the next game. I love it, and it plays a big part in my life. On Sunday, 8th December 2024, I met someone probably more animated than Crusher. It might yet even change the way I support Sisaket United.

A Matchday with Family and Friends

Like anywhere, it is usually better when attending something with friends. Ben from Denmark, along with Noi, who lives in Bangkok as well as my wife Taew, were with me on the final day of what had been a heavy month of socialising in many different locations around the country.

 The match at Sri Lamduan Stadium against Chanthaburi was the ideal opportunity to round things off with a hotel stay in town, with the game sandwiched between a late lunch, lots of beers and then a pub at full-time. Perfect.

Our guests had been to the home game with Khon Kaen the previous year, with my Danish pal being impressed with the vitriol shown towards the referee, with comments from the main stand suggesting that his wife was from the same city as the visitors. In Bachman-Turner Overdrive mode, “He Ain’t Seen Nothin’ Yet”.

Sitting with the Ultras

It was my suggestion that we watch from the uncovered far side, where the more vociferous fans assembled with no danger of rain on this occasion. It proved to be an inspired decision. We went upstairs after beers and snacks outside in the fan zone, enjoying the whole occasion as it should be.

I let Taew decide where to sit, and she came up trumps. The hosts went ahead within a minute when a long throw from skipper Pongsak Boontod was flicked on at the near post by Caíque Ribeiro and put away by top scorer Danilo. The big Brazilian was outstanding all evening while assisted by fellow countrymen Caique and Abner.

As ever, the Thais filled in, which often saw Danilo becoming exasperated by some of the poor game management and lack of skills around him from the natives. The tactics of coach Narongthanaphorn, who could be negative in the extreme, probably would not be a huge help.

Passion in Sisaket

Fans in Sisaket can be extremely passionate. It was noticeable that crowds would build throughout the game after they got away from work, with the volume increasing as beer was being consumed at regular intervals. It could go up on the dial if the opponents employed ways to frustrate or if the officials were deemed to be against the home team. Enter my new hero.

Within minutes, a Chanthaburi defender was not penalised, probably correctly. It led to some pushing and shoving between players on both sides, which ignited a tinderbox. The bloke behind me, probably in his thirties, was going berserk. He had a booming voice, which he used for the rest of the game with very few stops for breath as he abused anyone belonging to Chanthaburi as well as the match officials.

Next to him was a slender lady who never spoke a word. Was it a first date on which he was trying to impress, or perhaps she enjoyed it as much as the rest of us did? I was at a loss as to what he was shouting, but Taew’s facial expressions suggested there was lots of abuse with a hint of humour. What I’d have given to sit Crusher next to him.

The Away Team Strike Back

The away side scored a lovely goal to restore parity, which was finished by Tongan international Ata Inia. While the Wild Rabbits were not very good, they looked dangerous going forward, led by another Brazilian, Tiago Chulapa. All three away supporters in the distant zone seemed happy.

They had been charged double the money for the experience, one thing I dislike about Thai football. Crusher would have certainly had views about it, especially if he had been plonked in there.

Eleven Hours to an Away Game

You could have heard a pin drop. However, it was soon back to normal. I had noticed the previous week that Chanthaburi had lost a tempestuous battle away to league leaders Phrae United in which Irish defender Clyde O'Connell had been given his marching orders. 

That journey by road was eleven hours, compared to less than eight to Sisaket. And people wonder why clubs struggle financially. Not that the bloke behind me showed any sympathy for the travel or cost incurred. His abusive lexicon was continually impressive in a country famed for its hospitality.

Home Fans Influence the Referee

Just past the half-hour mark, Abner made the most of finding a way to tumble in the box as he ran into an opponent. Referee Nasri Tamat pointed to the spot, a decision undoubtedly swayed by crowd pressure. 

Quite reasonably, the visiting team players were extremely angry. Danilo kept his cool, stepped up and slotted the penalty past the generally dodgy goalkeeper Chaloempat Ploywanratta.

The second half followed the pattern of many Lamduan home games. Sisaket decided to try to hang on to their lead. It was a tactic they consistently used in the three seasons I had become a regular. The times that they are caught out, especially since being promoted to the second tier, are surely worthy of a change of thought. 

Unbelievably, in the closing stages, previously unambitious Thai home players turned adventurous, making shocking decisions. I was wondering whether Danilo or the bloke behind me would pop first.

Celebrating with My New Friend

I turned around when the full-time whistle was blown to shake hands. I would have asked him for a photo, but didn’t want him to think I was taking the piss. Many locals were laughing at their fellow fan and me, thanking him and vowing to meet the following week.

Uan, our one-legged driver, a story of his own, was waiting behind the main stand to drive us to Leo’s, a wonderful bar and restaurant to see out the rest of the night. They had an offer on Guinness of buy one and get one free, while Australian striploin steaks had a big reduction in price.

Meeting Another New Friend in the Pub

There was still time to make acquaintance with Per for the first time, a Norwegian who, it transpired, lived in town and was doing his pieces while cheering on Arsenal and seeing them have two goals chalked off through VAR on TV. He was unaware of Sisaket having a professional team, the news of which seemed to make his evening, as contact details were exchanged between us, hopefully, to introduce him to a life-changing experience.

A grand day out, with England starting it by winning the Test in New Zealand. It was full of fun, and laughter surrounded by great company as beer flowed in excellent venues, soaked up with delicious food, and a rare home win too. But most of all, the bloke behind me topped it off by doing his Crusher tribute act. I hope he was the same value in a bar and in life in general.

RIP Crusher. Happy Christmas, everyone.