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Showing posts with label Northern Thailand. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Northern Thailand. Show all posts

Monday, 21 April 2025

Sukhothai



Ground: Thalay Luang Stadium
Capacity: 8,000
Club Founded: 2009
League: Thai League 1 (current level)

While visitors flock to see the ruins in the historical northern city of Sukhothai, there is also modern entertainment to be found at Thalay Luang Stadium, the home of the Fire Bats of Sukhothai FC.

Early Years

Sukhothai FC was founded in 2009, initially playing their home games at the Sukhothai Institute of Physical Education Stadium. The club, coached by Chusak Sriphum, was awarded a place in the third-tier Regional League Division 2 North. The side remained in mid-table or lower positions for several seasons before ending third in 2013. 

New Stadium

Big changes came in 2014 as the club moved into the new Thalay Luang Stadium. The regional title was clinched, followed by promotion from Group B of the playoffs, taking the Fire Bats to a place in the second-tier Division 1.

The prolific Felipe Ferreira scored the goals as Sukhothai won promotion at the first attempt, for the side led by Somchai Chuayboonchum, who had succeeded Somchai Makmool. Renan Marques was the top marksman of an incredible 2016 season. 

AFC Competition

The side consolidated their league standing at the top level of Thai football, as well as lifting the FA Cup. The club were awarded the accolade when the competition was abandoned at the semifinal stage following the death of King Bhumibol Adulyadej. All four remaining sides became joint winners.

However, Sukhothai won the draw to represent Thailand in the AFC Champions League in 2017, defeating Yadanarbon of Myanmar before losing the playoff round to Chinese side Shanghai SIPG.

 

Relegation

The legendary John Baggio then began to make his mark in the team after coach Makmool was reappointed, before being replaced by Pairoj Borwonwatanadilok. Chalermwoot Sa-ngapol was then given the job as Nelson Bonilla put away the goals.

Ljubomir Ristovski was the next Sukhothai head coach before he was replaced by a returning Pairoj before the end of the 2019 season. Thai football changed to the European calendar in 2020-21, with the goals of Baggio not being enough to prevent relegation for the side led by Surapong Kongthep. 

A Return to Thai League 1

Osman Sow made his mark up front for the Fire Bats in 2021-22 as the side won promotion back to Thai League 1 at the first attempt under the tutelage of coach Dennis Amato. The team stayed up before the German tactician moved on.

Chusak Sriphum and then Sugao Kambe were the next head coach appointments. A returning Bonilla scored the goals to help Sukhothai remain safe, despite some disharmony on and off the pitch, with fans being upset with the club owners.

Recent Times

Aktaporn Chalitaporn led the side from the bench as the consistent Baggio, in his second spell at the club, joined in the goalscoring effort by Matheus Fornazari. Ekalak Thong-am was appointed as the Sukhothai head coach in March 2026. 

His team retained their top-flight status with a 3-0 final-day home win against Muangthong United.

My visit

Sukhothai 1 Buriram United 2
Thai League 1 - Sunday 6th April 2025
๐Ÿ‘จ‍๐Ÿ‘จ‍๐Ÿ‘ง‍๐Ÿ‘ง 6,095 ๐ŸŽŸ️ 120 THB (£2.70)

Friendship Through Football

One of the great pleasures of watching football across Thailand has been my involvement in A Thai Football Podcast. The weekly airing encourages all sorts of topics of conversation, with match reports from anyone who wants to contribute and send anything in being welcomed.

Dale, who does an incredible job putting it together, has found contacts from goodness knows where. This has led to friendships being made with other like-minded individuals when catching up whenever visiting different parts of the country. Bill Greaves is a prime example. 

Bill, with his Aberdonian and Canadian drawl, sends in some cracking reports full of humour and smart observations. When my wife, Taew, looked at routes to return from the annual Chiang Mai Cricket Sixes, the fixtures, and destinations aligned perfectly, also offering the chance to see historic Sukhothai as part of our road trip.

Bill, through Dale, got in touch, and we enjoyed a phone chat a week before we met up, with his good lady, Dtoi, sorting out the match tickets. Taew drove us down on Sunday morning along a scenic route, before we checked into our rather underwhelming resort, much to her disappointment. 

My Roving Report for A Thai Football Podcast

Matchday in Sukhothai

Not to worry, after a siesta, we were soon meeting our hosts in a noodle shop for a quick beer. Bill’s original suggestion to go for a burger was scuppered as AJ’s was shut, as was his alternative plan. He didn’t seem too upset as he enjoyed being at the Thalay Luang Stadium with lots of time to spare.

The couple could not have been more friendly or helpful. I had a wander about for photos before returning to the car, which had been parked next to by other hospitable regulars as a small tailgate party ensued with food and drink purchased from the decent choice of stores. 

I did my stuff for the podcast with Bill offering his thoughts before he and Dtoy went inside a little before us, so that he could manage the steps to our seat before it got busy. The atmosphere was building once we joined them, with beers and the spicy local thin sausage, which I quickly took a liking to.

The stadium was also to my approval, with magnificent views of the mountains in the distance and seats close to the pitch without a running track. The locals were out in force and made a proper din against the big boys of Thai football, who were firm favourites to win against their mid-table opposition. 

Buriram Come to Town

Love or dislike Buriram, they are an outstanding example of what money can provide with star players, by far the biggest club stadium in the country, and honours galore. The way that referees seemingly bend towards them is another matter, but not unique to Thailand in the way the most powerful are accommodated.

The first half saw almost incessant Buriram pressure. A couple of scrambles in the home area somehow saw the ball being kept out by a mixture of desperation, luck, brave defending, erratic goalkeeping from understudy Supazin Hnupichai, and poor finishing. It was not dull.

The home Fire Bats were either about to be eaten up or come up with the greatest ‘rope a dope’ performance ever. The tiny John Baggio and giant Matheus Fornazari formed an unlikely double act, but on occasions, they caused concern to the visiting rearguard.

It was like an FA Cup tie back home, watching a non-league side take on a team from several divisions higher. That’s how much of a gulf there can be at times in Thai football. That said, at 0-0, Sukhothai always had a chance of a breakaway to snatch a win that would have made for the perfect evening. 

Soon into the second half, Supazin made a super save from which Supachai Chaided blasted the rebound over. A local friend of Bill was not enamoured by the number of foreigners taking the field for Buriram. They are not a Thai club was the gist of his observations.

The deadlock was broken in the fiftieth minute, as the impressive Jefferson Tabinas went on another forceful run down the left-hand side. His powerful cross was put away by substitute Suphanat Mueanta for star-studded Buriram. Shortly after, Goran ฤŒauลกiฤ‡ saw a shot smash off the top of the crossbar. 

In the sixty-fifth minute, the reigning champions doubled their advantage. Sukhothai lost the ball in midfield, where it was quickly swept wide on the right. The cross was chested home by Martin Boakye, with my thoughts being on the rest of the game being a case a damage limitation.

The man beside us was further narked when Buriram introduced another foreign star, Guilherme Bissoli, into the action. His team didn’t stop believing and grabbed a goal in stoppage time when the ball was dragged back for Hikaru Matsui to fire past goalie    Neil Etheridge.

However, there was not enough time to raise any more attacks, with the result being about the right outcome. Nobody could accuse the Sukhothai players of not giving their all, but they were beaten by a better side, who edged closer to the title.

A Stormy Ending

We still had plenty to look forward to. Our match tickets gave free admission to a concert in the park behind the goal, which would see the extremely popular Thai band, Clash, playing. Off we went as best we could through the crowds, losing our hosts when we got split up. 

Eventually, we were inside the fenced-off area, but just as the band began to play, the heavens opened, and huge winds blew across the open space. It got very cold, wet, and dangerous, very quickly. It was scary for a while.

Particularly as the poles holding the large Chang beer banners began toppling over, and Bill, in a seat, would not be able to get out of the way. We protected him as best as we could with my large body attempting to perform as a wind break while Taew used an umbrella over him as Toy went to retrieve the car. 

The gig was abandoned, leading to chaos as everyone wanted to leave at the same time. Dtoi managed to get the car near, and I forced open the fencing so my friend could access it quickly. We had a giggle inside the vehicle, but it had been quite an experience.

The traffic back towards the main roads was horrendous, taking us well over an hour before Dtoi deposited us at the end of the lane by our accommodation. I had a coffee to warm up before bed.

Onward Journey

The following morning, we had breakfast and covered the sites of the historical park without paying to go inside them. It was a pleasant little tour offering me some excellent video footage, before we headed to Kamphaeng Phet to meet more friends for another lovely few hours.

Our thanks go to Bill and Dtoi for their hospitality and for making the visit so special.


Kamphaengphet


Kamphaengphet FC
Ground: Cha Kung Rao Stadium
Capacity: 2,406
Club Founded: 2009
League: Thai League 3 North (current level)

While some football clubs have a long list of honours, some around Thailand continue to offer their community a place to attend and stability. That is something that could be said about Kamphaengphet FC.


A Potted Club History

Kamphaengphet FC is a professional football club that took up residence at the Kamphaeng Phet Provincial Administrative Organisation (PAO) Stadium, otherwise known as Chakangrao Central Stadium in the centre of town, when the club became a member of the third-tier Regional League Division 2 Northern Region.

In their first three seasons, the ‘Cha Kung Rao Warriors’ finished in the lower reaches of the division before ending in sixth place in 2012, before slipping back down the table over the following three campaigns.

A Playoff Appearance

A runners-up finish in 2016 earned the club a place in the Champions League playoffs, in which they saw off Ayutthaya Warrior before falling to Surat Thani. When the Thai football league structure was amended in 2017, Kamphaengphet were placed in Thai League 3 Upper Region.

Otsu Kazutaka top-scored as the side ended in eleventh place. This performance was repeated a year later with Badar Al-Alawi topping the goals charts. Kawin Nuanthat then became the fans' favourite forward for a couple of seasons.

League Struggles

Lowly finishes followed after the league chose to follow the European fixture calendar, which continued under coach Saksan Siripong. Sakdinan Makmuang was then put in charge of the team, which saw Punyaphat Autha top scoring. Former coach Saksan returned, without any change in fortune on the pitch.

Khwanchai found his old scoring touch in 2024-25, as the team completed a remarkable fifth consecutive ninth-place finish. He continued his scoring run the following season, first under returning coaches Saksan and then Sakdinan, as Kamphaengphet finished one place above relegation.

My visit

Stadium Visit - Monday 7th April 2025

A Visit to See an Old Friend

I try not to miss an opportunity to call in and see friends when Taew and I are travelling anywhere. On this occasion, Alan Parkhouse, an old journalist friend who had been of great assistance when I covered cricket media duties at various tournaments in Thailand, was now living there. Even better, he and his good lady, Phung, had got married a few days earlier. 

I'd been in touch in the weeks leading up to our trip to Chiang Mai, for the annual International Cricket Sixes, to find the best options of accommodation and to plan our brief stay, which was to be the day after we had been in Sukhothai to meet more friends and go to the football.


The trip home, which would then include a ride through the Petchabun Mountains and an overnight stop in Chaiyaphum, is featured in this video on my YouTube Channel. Many more adventures around the Land of Smiles, along with lots of sports, can be found there.

We arrived in Kamphaeng Phet around lunchtime after visiting Sukhothai's UNESCO Historical Park. What I didn't know was that we were to find one similar an hour later, albeit on a smaller scale.

The area around both that and the city shrine provided an immediate positive impression, as did a visit to the football stadium on the way to our hotel for the evening. Chakangrao Central Stadium was located just over the road from the Ping River, which I considered a perfect spot,  near markets, and probably having the benefit of a breeze. 

Inside the arena, I liked how the original raised main stand had two large, covered extensions on either side of it, making it stand out from many other such provincial municipal venues that also have running tracks.

Opposite stood an open, raised terrace, while an unusually large detached block occupied one corner, as was also the case when I visited Phitsanulok and Lopburi. The High School behind that end of the arena provided it with an enclosed feel.

Happy with the photographs and videos I took, I rejoined my ever-obliging wife, Taew, for the short drive, which entailed crossing the river and finding the majestic Mango House Resort & Cafรฉ, our refuge for the night.

A Most Convivial Evening

A quality lunch and then catch up with food with Alan and Phung ensued before we caught up with them at their place the following morning, which will see their steakhouse open in a pleasant area near the golf course. Hopefully, a return was being planned by the ladies, which would include me seeing a football game and having a round of golf!



Sunday, 20 April 2025

Uttaradit


Uttaradit FC
Ground: Uttaradit Province Stadium
Capacity: 3,245
Club Founded: 2009
League: Thai League 3 League North (current level)

Early Years

Uttaradit FC represent the northern city of the same name in the north of the country, with the ‘Fighting Cocks’, as they were originally nicknamed, joining the Regional League Division 2 Northern Region, as coach Atithep Yoosawad led them to fourth in their debut campaign. 

A season was spent playing at Uttaradit Rajabhat University Stadium, before returning to their original venue. A change of name to Uttaradit-Morseng failed to result in any measure of success.

A League Title

Midtable finishes were the norm, with Noh Hyeong-cheol being the regular source of goals. Uttaradit competed in Thai League 4 North in 2017 following league restructuring, where they finished fourth in the table. 

Diarra Aboubacar Sidick, the Ivorian striker, would lead Uttaradit to the regional title in 2018. However, the side fared badly in the playoffs, and then regrouped under head coach Vorrakorn Vijannarong for the following season, where the goals of Giuberty Silva Neves helped the team retain its title.

Again, the playoffs ended in disappointment for the ‘Broken Sword’, as Uttaradit were now nicknamed. After further reorganisation of the lower tiers, Uttaradit were placed in Thai League 3 North in 2020-21, with the fixture calendar being aligned with that in Europe. The team ended in fourth position.

Chatchai Narkwijit put away the chances in 2021-22 as Uttaradit Saksiam, as they were known under a sponsorship deal, finished seventh after Chumnan Pharkunthud had been appointed as head coach during the season.

 

Playoff Action

Chaiwat Puengsiri took charge of the side for the following campaign, as the goals of Phufah Chuenkomrak helped the side to a runners-up finish. The playoffs ended in disappointment. The TPF backing of the club was put in place before the 2024-25 season, as Nitipong Saiyasit was named as head coach.

He was replaced by Sorrasak Ratson for the following campaign, before Theerawekin Seehawong replaced him halfway through. Within a few matches, Anucha Chaiwong was appointed and took Uttaradit to the playoffs.

My visit

Stadium Visit - Tuesday 25th March 2025

Road Trip

The opportunity to visit the Province Stadium in Uttaradit came about as my wife Taew and I were staying at the far side of the town on our final stop of a four-day road adventure from Sisaket to Chiang Mai.

We’d already enjoyed the delights of an overnight stop in Loei, where I took in the Saturday night match against Surin City, before a wonderful two nights in Chiang Khan, which offered lots of fun and relaxation.

Dramatic Journey

The road to our strategic destination for the evening was dramatic at times, with plenty of mountainous roads being travelled along. The scenery in parts was not unlike deepest Wales or the Highlands of Scotland. Good for me, but undoubtedly more testing for my good lady behind the wheel.

The stadium impressed me when we turned into the complex off the main road. The main stand was better than most, boosted by smart individual seats on its raised deck. The raised open area opposite was more in keeping with other similar venues. The trees that surrounded the arena gave it an enclosed feel.

Discovering Uttaradit

Once I had completed my videoing and photography, we headed to check in at our resort, which had a semi-rural location. Baan Suan Palm Resort was decent value, clean, and included a breakfast, which we could enjoy before heading to Chiang Mai early the following morning.

We spent a couple of hours visiting some local attractions, including Laplae City Gate and the Phraya Pichai Broken Sword monument. Food was obtained at a quaint department store in the city centre to take back as we enjoyed a relaxed evening.


Our complete road trip from Sisaket to Chiang Mai, which includes the Uttaradit leg of our trip, along with football and Saturday night in Loei, as well as Chiang Khan, is here to take a look.

Please feel free to peruse and subscribe, free of charge, to my YouTube channel, where you will find lots of videos full of happy vibes relating to Thai destinations, festivals, culture and sports.



Tuesday, 15 October 2024

Phitsanulok


Phitsanulok FC
Ground: Phitsanulok PAO Stadium
Capacity: 3,066
Club Founded: 2007
League: Thai League 3 North (current level)

From near-misses in the promotion play-offs to passionate local support, Phitsanulok FC have become one of northern Thailand's most respected football clubs. This page tells the story of the Violet Army and my memorable train trip to watch them in action.


Early Club History

Phitsanulok FC started out its life in local regional football before being accepted into the second-tier Division 1 for the 2007 season, playing at Pibulsongkram Rajabhat Stadium. ‘Muang-Song-Kware’ began promisingly before being relegated to the new third tier for the 2009 campaign after losing to Nakhon Sawan in the playoffs.

Placed in Division 2 North and moving to Phitsanulok PAO Stadium, the ‘Violet Army’ were crowned champions in 2011. The playoffs proved less successful as promotion was missed out on.


Playoff Drama

The season saw the club renamed Phitsanulok TSY FC after Thai Seng Yont became the main sponsor. A year later, another unsuccessful play-off campaign was the result. However, it was a case of third time lucky in 2013. Automatic promotion was secured to the second-level Division 1. 

The team went straight back down despite the goals of Yod Chanthawong. The club changed back to its original name after the sponsors withdrew. Diarra Aboubacar Sidick finished as the top scorer in 2017, as his side finished third in Thai League 4 North following league reconstruction.


The goals of Anucha Panthong saw Photsanulok finish well, including a couple of third-place finishes in the league. Chatchai Narkwijit put away the goals for the side coached by Apichart Mosika. Chumnan Pharkunthud replaced him before being succeeded by Kritsana Tailwan.
 

The goals of Gilberto Macena took the side to the playoffs, going on to miss out on promotion after a two-legged defeat to Nakhonsi United. Macena was joined at the top of the scoring chart by Argentinian striker Nicolรกs Vรฉlez under new head coach Adul Lahsoh the followin season.


Recent Times

Jongsarith Wuttichuay and then Arnon Bandasak took charge of the team before the return of coach Kritsana, as the team narrowly missed out on the playoffs with Caio, the latest Brazilian to thrill the home crowds. Jonsarith returned as coach after a poor start to the 2024-25 campaign, in which Ekene Victor Azike top-scored.

Chawaphon Kamolsin was appointed as head coach ahead of the 2025-26 season, before being replaced before the midway break by Kritsana, in his third spell at the club.

My visit

Phitsanulok 1 Nakhonsi United 1
Thai League 3 Promotion Play-Off 1st Leg - Saturday 16th April 2022
๐Ÿ‘จ‍๐Ÿ‘จ‍๐Ÿ‘ง‍๐Ÿ‘ง 998 ๐ŸŽŸ️ Free


A Long Day Begins

I’d decided to start exploring some distant cities around football, using the best use of my time while grabbing the best value for money while I was at it. The first leg of this play-off clash was just what I was looking for.

The train worked well for me. The price was around 520 THB return (around £12), and the times were just about perfect. I was scheduled to catch the 7.42 north from Lak Si and arose in good form on Saturday morning.


Taxi Chaos

My taxi driver seemed unaware of how to get there, but no problem. I would steer him. Only messages of concern about an issue back home distracted me. Before I woke up to us heading the wrong way, we were nearing Bangkapi. Thankfully, Google Maps on my phone came to the rescue, at least in part.

I commanded my pilot onward towards Lad Phrao, taking a turning off just before the MRT station along Ratchadapisek Road. Time was a massive concern by this point. My App seemed to indicate I was OK if I got out at an earlier station along the route. What my driver lacked in knowledge, he made up for in humour and driving skills.


Adventure by Train

He deposited me underneath the Don Muang Tollway at Bang Khen station. I panicked at seeing a train already on the platform as I scrambled across the tracks, only to find an earlier service than my own. The Chiang Mai service was a few minutes late, but that wasn’t a problem.

I’d factored in such eventualities. I found my seat, and the guard smiled when I explained why I’d got on two stops ahead of Lak Si. The carriage had fans, with plenty of legroom in front of my seat. I opened the window right down to get a breeze. Throughout the trip, I did a bit of reading, doing puzzles and listening to music. As well as dozing off a couple of times.


Discovering Phitsanulok

The journey was pleasant. I’d done it a couple of times in the opposite direction from Chiang Mai, so I knew what to look out for. We somehow lost nearly an hour by the time we alighted at Phitsanulok, around 2.50pm.

I had a few places on my list of sightseeing, including the three nearby temples: Wat Rachburana, Wat Nang Phaya and Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat Woramahawihan by the River Nan, where an annual regatta is held.


Taxi to the Rescue

It was extremely hot without a breeze. Generally, I enjoy walking, but the heat and early start were beginning to drain. Instead, I invested in a THB 50 taxi ride. I’m sure the metre went slower than in Bangkok.

After taking a walk around the perimeter of Phitsanulok Provincial Stadium, I figured the best food and drink options were from the portable cart outside on the main Aka Thotsarot Road. I went for typical Thai snacks and a Coke. I particularly enjoyed their version of a battered sausage.


Pre-Match Build-Up

Time was slow in passing. I managed to find a bit of shade at the rear of the stand on the near side. Phitsanulok had made admission free for the game to try to increase the size of the crowd. My friend Gary was there the previous week when they did the same thing.

The stadium was a typical bowl, which had stands facing each other across the pitch and a running track. A huge open stand stood in the corner, a bit like Chelsea’s old structure at Stamford Bridge. Over a hundred fans had travelled from a long way south to cheer for Nakhonsi. They were over in the main stand.


The Match

The home fans made a proper noise, which would continue throughout. The game was open from the start as the home side's Brazilian forward Gilberto Macena showed his class. His wide compatriot Andrรฉ Luรญs was very pacey.

Indeed, it was Luis who opened the scoring after just four minutes with a clever lob over the oncoming goalkeeper Chakhon Philaklang. Nakhonsi kept their composure, and it was so surprising when a low shot from another Brazilian forward, Erivelto, beat goalie Sangphet Puklongyong as it went into the bottom corner.


The locals around me were friendly and enjoying a game that became tighter after the opening flurry. Someone had brought in a drone above the fans to film. Many took in their own beers, as there had been hardly any security checks. The playing surface was hard and bumpy, which did not help the game flow. 

United were playing the better football of the two sides as the half progressed, although Phitsanulok were more dynamic. The contrasting styles made it a most watchable contest. The visitors were throwing themselves to the floor a bit too much for my liking as half-time approached. 


At the interval, I decided to change positions once the sun had dropped and went high up in the corner stand. Shortly after the restart, Puklongyong made a good stop when a Nakhonsi man was clean through and then made another good save shortly after. It was a game in the balance as both sides looked to take a lead into the second leg.

A clever home side free-kick routine was nearly headed in at the back post before a header from Luis looked like it might have gone over the line before Philaklang clawed it against the post, as referee Kotchapoom Meesridaecha waved away appeals. Then another Phitsanulok header came back off the underside of the bar with the keeper beaten. 


Act of Kindness

The local ultras were going into overdrive, getting behind their side. They were showing plenty of annoyance at the officials for not clamping down on the amateur dramatics of the away team. Despite the increasing pressure from the hosts, mainly from set pieces, Nakhonsi hung on for a valuable draw. 

I drifted away, hoping to clap eyes on a songthaew outside or a taxi. Nothing appeared to be available, so I set off walking towards town. A taxi stood by the footbridge going the right way. I was about to get in when a fan scrambled down the steps, telling me to wait. He’d booked the cab in advance, but welcomed me to get in.


Post-Match Fun

He was typical of the Thais I met on my travels. He was going for the train and dropped me at the station while refusing to accept anything towards the fare. We bid our farewells as I headed towards the night bazaar in search of food and drink.

There wasn’t the bar action I’d envisaged, but my lovely chicken and rice dish, washed down with a Coke at Nan Rim Food Centre overlooking the river, was just the ticket. It was time for alcohol, and to tick off three bars that I’d shortlisted.


Amarin in town was a trendy place on the corner of Phayalithai and Chaopraya Road. The Hoegaarden was expensive, and the music a bit too cool for school for my liking. However, they charged my phone, and I was served by a young lady for whom anything less than stunning would be an unfair description.

Further along Pahaylithai Road was Girls Don’t Cry. Again, aimed at local high-society, this bar offered tremendous service, with five beers on tap, with the promise of more to come. Free nibbles too. Again, expensive, but well worth it. A bar for an occasional treat, but on my radar for any return visit.


It was then over the railway where I found Wood Stock, which I really enjoyed. A superb band played Thai and occasional Western stuff. A TV with the sound down showed the FA Cup semi-final, and a DJ played great tracks at the interval.

I got in a muddle over the actual time and when my train was due before enjoying a few cold large Leos. Three excellent bars filled the evening perfectly before I returned to the station. The train arrived at 00:10, a few minutes late.


Train Ride Home

The journey lost time throughout, eventually reaching Lak Si nearly an hour late at around 6.30am. My sleep was sporadic, often broken by foghorn-voiced vendors going up and down the carriages. I was home half an hour later, in time for plenty of rest before the afternoon’s local football.

Phitsanulok was great, and I’d seen a decent game. Nakhonsi won the second leg 3-2 a week later and were promoted to Thai League 2.


If you have enjoyed reading this article, you might wish to visit my YouTube Channel, where there are numerous homemade Thai football videos, as well as a wide range of content covering all aspects of life in the Land of Smiles, including the one above of my visit to Phisanulok.