Roi Et Alan 0 Sisaket City 2
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All you need to know about football in Thailand: Reports, Clubs, History, Articles & Images Galore
Football support often comes down to geography, family, or circumstance. Some people inherit clubs through generations, while others discover new allegiances later in life.
In my case, moving to Sisaket in rural Thailand unexpectedly gave me not one local club to follow, but two.
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| Attending a Sisaket FC match in 2018 I'm not sure the stadium has been cleaned since |
| The more modern SAT Stadium |
| Looking towards "our" VIP seats |
| Derby Day, and more importantly, a quality deal at a quality bar to get into the mood. Football will always be far more than 90 minutes to me. It's a day out. |
| A big crowd at the derby |
| The pitch at Sri Nakhon Lamduan Stadium Even worse than normal |
| Under a Blood Red Sky at Sisaket United |
Many more Thai football videos, plus those from elsewhere, on my YouTube Channel.
FC Yala is a professional football club from the southern Thai city of the same name. The club has evolved through several identities, including Yara United and Jalor City, before becoming FC Yala. The present club was formed in August 2018, as Jalor City FC, going on to win the Thailand Amateur League South at the first attempt to win promotion to the Thai League.
2009–2016 early years
The new club sensed their opportunity following the demise of Yara United FC, a club formed in 2009, that played in the Regional League Division 2 Southern Region. Yala Province Stadium was their initial home ground, where fifth place was achieved in 2013.
They moved to Jura Stadium, also known as Yala City Municipality Stadium, the following year. Their best performance came in 2015 when they finished third, before being allocated a place in Thai League 4 in 2017 when they ended in seventh spot with Pithak Abdulraman topping the scoring.
2017–2022 restructuring period
United failed to meet the club licensing regulations and were banned from playing in the Thai League for two seasons. They didn’t reappear to take the opportunity to try and win promotion through the Amateur League when their suspension ended.
By this time, Jalor had finished their debut 2019 season at Jaru Stadium in fifth place with Suttichai Doungead and Muhammadsalfadee Jehteh finishing as joint top scorers. The Thai League was restructured ahead of the 2020-21 campaign, with it reverting to a European playing calendar.
Ayu Lateh topped the scoring while Firhan Masae remained reliable in goal as the side finished seventh in the extended Thai League 3 South under head coach Muklis Tahetasae. Home games in the 2021-22 campaign were played at The Thai National Sports University Yala Campus, which can be viewed by clicking here.
The season ended again in mid-table for Jalor with former United forward Pithak putting away the goals for the “Jigsaw”. They remained at the same venue, which ended up in a disappointing finish, third from the bottom of the table in 2022-23, as Sakeereen Teekasom played his part playing up front.
2023 - Rebrand + growth
Jalor City FC were renamed FC Yala before the 2023-24 season. With the name change came a new coach, with Wirat Kaeyihwa appointed. Home games were played at Yala Rajabhat University in a new stadium devoid of a full-sized running track. Attendances grew enormously, showing the potential of a successful club in the city.
This was despite the team only ending in eighth position, with Abdelaziz Said El Shaer and Jehhanafee Mamah sharing the goals. Nirun Assawapakdee was given the coach's role for 2024-25 before he was replaced by Adul Muensaman as Yala pushed for a place in the playoffs.
Pattakrit Mahavijit was given the job of head coach for the following season, before being replaced soon into the second leg by Prajak Weangsong, as Yala ended one point outside the playoffs.
FC Yala will play in Thai League 3 South in the 2026-27 season.
My visits
Jaru Stadium
Friday 3rd January 2025
I was conscious of the sensitivities around travelling in Thailand’s southern provinces as my wife and I joined her cousin and his family on the drive down to Betong, near the Malaysian border, during our latest road trip through Laos and Thailand.
We had made a compromise. While it looked unlikely that I’d be venturing alone to football when visiting relatives in Hat Yai, we agreed that driver Q would stop if the venues were on our route. Fortunately, he was delivering coffee in Pattani and Yala, so at least I’d get some photo opportunities.
The internet is only as good as those who update it. And if a person cannot find out the right information, then they will be prone to errors. This was certainly the case regarding Jaru Stadium, which, according to Wikipedia, had a capacity of 25,000.
It is fair to say that when we rolled into the car park, I was more than a little underwhelmed. The venue only had one raised stand with the rest open standing, with no access around three sides alongside the running track.
There was little wonder that Jalor City, as FC Yala were called when they used the venue, looked for somewhere else. Its location wasn’t very convenient for the city centre, and it was extremely basic.
There was a junior match just about to kick off on the artificial pitch when we arrived. Indeed, the gents outside thought that we had gone to watch. They were most welcoming as I wandered about to get my snaps.
Later research by checking social media showed that FC Yala still used it for training and some friendly matches. We headed off through the city, me slightly disappointed that we didn’t go to see the new stadium, but that would have to wait.
Rajabhat University Stadium
Saturday 4th January
The wait was just one day as we made our return towards Hat Yai. Q wanted to visit a shop in the city where he had ordered some sweets for us to try before we cut across in the direction of Rajabhat University.
Before that, we arrived outside the gates of The Thai National Sports University Yala Campus, which had been the home of FC Yala and, more recently, Yala City FC. A description and photos of the stadium can be seen by clicking here.
The new stadium was just across Tesaban Soi 5, in an area very much geared up for students, with lots of coffee shops, street food, and restaurants. There was plenty of signage on the back of the stand that ran the full length of the pitch, so nobody was in doubt as to who played there.
I thought that my luck was going to be out as the gates at the rear of the stand were locked, despite hearing activity inside on the pitch. Thankfully, a gate in another corner was open so I could pop inside while the team trained.
The stand was extremely impressive, while the rest of the ground had an enclosed feel with high fences, university buildings, and housing surrounding it. It was the perfect size for a Thai League 3 club.
Once done, I
met up with the rest of the carload who’d been shopping before we headed back
to our base in time for Q to take me downtown in Hat Yai, which was another
excellent experience.
A Funny Kind of Love. Port FC and I
I first found Thai club shirts in 2007 at shops near the National Stadium, including Police United and Port FC. My first chance to go to a game arrived in 2010 after the cricket was over in Phuket. An Icelandic volcano put pay to any scheduled return to Blighty.
I went to Army United v Bangkok United and then Customs Suvarnabhumi v Thai Honda on consecutive days, thoroughly enjoying my introduction without feeling any passion towards any of the sides involved. Before I returned home, I caught the MRT to Khlong Toei and walked the ten minutes or so to the PAT Stadium, which was being upgraded.
| No More Madam Pang on the posters anymore |
A Love Affair is Born
Something about it hooked me immediately. I later found out Port already had a reputation, with their fans involved in fighting with those of rivals Muangthong United at Suphachalasai Stadium a few months previously. It was so severe that it saw the Kor Royal Cup being awarded to MTU. I would have to wait for my first game at the PAT.
I got my chance in April 2013, after attending a Regional League game between Globlex and Samut Sakon. I hailed a taxi down Ramkhamhaeng Road, with the driver eventually working out where I wanted to go.
It was a disappointing result, as Singhtarua, as Port were called at the time, lost 2-1 to BB-CU in the second tier. It was the first night under the new floodlights which attracted a good-sized crowd.
| A drink with a pal in Bangkok's best beer garden |
The ground had previously been somewhat of a shambles, with repeated floodlight failures, causing the abandonment of matches. Port had to move out, and the club had to reform.
It might have been because of what I’d gone through with Scarborough FC going bust and then helping with the new Scarborough Athletic, I felt quite at home. I did giggle when a fan in front of me had “Hooligan” emblazed on his shirt rather than a player’s name.
Early Impressions of Port FC
My regular twice-yearly trips sometimes came up lucky for Port fixtures. I enjoyed everything about the PAT experience and the occasional away games following the team. The feistiness and passion of the fans, while being virtually on top of the pitch, gave it something that stood out above other Thai venues. I even streamed some games while back in the UK.
| Never a shortage of food or drink at the PAT |
Things
changed, possibly forever at Port, when Nualphan Lamsam, otherwise known as
Madam Pang, took over the club. She is not camera-shy and
is not to everyone’s tastes. However, her finances made a huge difference.
The atmosphere at games seemed to change somewhat. Beer was no longer allowed in the stands. Her image was displayed on a match advertisement, while she sat on the bench next to the coaches. They were put in awkward positions. If they had told her not to, it would have led to a difficult situation and dismissal. That’s how Thailand works.
| Only the Lonely as the kick-off approaches |
Living in Thailand
By December 2021, I had moved to Thailand full-time. Tickets for the start of the second leg during Covid restrictions were purchased, with my mate Steve joining me. I went a lot that season as the results nosedived. The same as they had in many previous seasons and did in future seasons to come.
A Change of Perspective
Undoubtedly, my feelings towards going to football changed when I moved home. Results were far less important to me than before. I’d sometimes still get involved and have a shout at games, which I attended more than often as a neutral to visit new places. If a team like Port, whom I wanted to win, didn’t, I wasn’t that bothered once I walked outside the gates.
I think it was because I was living in a beautiful place and finding the woman of my dreams. We'd got married, while I was fully integrating into Thai life with her family and friends. I still meet up occasionally with fellow farangs, but generally, it's on a matchday somewhere. At Port, I have been lucky to meet some loyal Thai locals who are passionate in the extreme.
At first, I thought that I had confused them. My friends going to games with me, were treated superbly by them. They understand that football is my love rather than one club, even if they think I’m bonkers ever considering going to games of Port's rivals Muangthong in the home end.
Returning from an amazing three-week tour around Thailand with my good lady and her relatives, the fixtures fell kindly for me to go to my third home game of the 2024-25 season. Port had lost the previous Sunday away to Chiang Rai United, who, like visitors, Khon Kaen United were in the drop zone. Surely it would end in a home win.
I had taken the quick route from Minburi, consisting of Songthaew, a rickety old smoke-belching bus, to Bangkapi, a canal boat with similar attributes, and then the MRT underground. From there, it was a ten-minute walk to the stadium. While I have a relaxed attitude toward attending games, something struck me on this occasion.
It was similar to the times that I would walk from St John’s Wood tube to Lord’s or when I headed down North Marine Road for a day of cricket at Scarborough. The PAT Stadium approach gave me the same warm feeling inside.
It is a scruffy place — and a dream job for any health and safety official on secondment from the UK. It has no corporate facilities but has noise, passion and raucousness. To me, it's a perfect football stadium.
There was certainly no need to seek out a tout or buy online for this match, with the 6pm midweek slot being a contributory factor in a poor turnout. There is always somewhere to sit or wander around in the large open forecourt once through the main gates from the road.
A huge variety of street food is available in what I describe as Bangkok’s best beer garden, when there is a game on, and the atmosphere builds.
| Two gents who always improve my PAT experience |
Yao (apologies if misspelt), my Thai friend, who plays great tunes via Bluetooth speaker in the fans park outside, was unusually missing. I located his mates and had a couple of beers with them before heading inside to our usual vantage point.
I found my friend concentrating on the team doing their warmups along with his wife, Tuk. Yoa had trials with the club as a youngster, being brought up over the road from the stadium. He is well educated from time spent studying at a university in England, and now helps run the family business.
His knowledge, helpfulness, and generally great company were a joy to be around. The same applied to the rest of the gang, who positioned themselves in the corner behind the goal nearest the main stand.
Port games attract a wide range of fans from different backgrounds and nations. I find the company of the locals the most comfortable as I get the chance to practice speaking Thai and learn from them. And they have genuine passion. It’s their club, whereas I am an expat and a guest.
One of those who stands in the corner never misses a game, home or away. He turns up with large yellow and red cards, which he shows to the referees to offer them advice. I love it.
| Time for half-time beers |
Yoa had gone out and returned with some beers. When Madam Pang took on the role of President of the Thai FA, she handed control of the club to a relative. She was often still seen in her apartment behind where we stand and even seen at games in her Port colours. Some disapproved, saying that it wasn't a particularly good look for someone who should be maintaining neutrality.
Once again, beer was allowed back inside the stands. Muangthong fans were also allowed back in the stadium for the derby after a hiatus of nine years, while improvements were made to it.
This included an excellent playlist before games to enhance the build-up. It was back to more relaxed times. The wall of portraits of her on the rear wall of a stand leaves nobody in any doubt about whom to thank.
We went outside at the break, where Yoa’s mate had a stall. He served our beers and also sold some superb spicy sausage. The chat and fun were such that we missed the start of the second half, which included what would prove to be the winning goal for Khon Kaen United.
Another match. Another Disappointing Result
Port continued to huff and puff, but the lacklustre performance got no more than it deserved. The visitors did what should be expected of any team fighting relegation, as they fought and scrapped and used every trick in the book. If only the home side showed the same passion. The victors showed just how ordinary they were when, a few days later, they lost 9-0 away to Buriram United.
| It's A Family Affair at Port |
Enough was enough for the Port hierarchy. Head coach Rangsan Viwatchaichok had been talked out of resigning earlier in the season. This time, he was shown the door before the night was out. It was typical of Port and summed up their previous seasons. A good start with big signings before falling apart. It was a good job that there were so many poor teams in the division.
The Problems Facing a Football Club Owner
But here lies the issue. Port, BG Pathum United, and Bangkok United are relatively unchallenged by the chasing pack, yet they know they have no chance of chasing down Buriram United.
Sacking a coach may need to be done occasionally, not least to indicate to the fans that the owners understand their disappointment. But will it really make a huge difference? I think that the only way is to be honest with fans and create a project over several years. This would mean employing without interfering and being patient. Traits that Thai club owners lack.
| The corner in the B Zone where I watch from |
Drowning Our Sorrows
We were oblivious to the news of the sacking, as we got stuck into more Leo’s, enjoying the evening. There was another home game to come the following week against Ratchaburi. I was pretty sure that I’d be there, but it looked like Yoa was double-booked. I'd find a way to have fun regardless, though I'd miss him.
Tuk kindly took pity on me and dropped me at the end of my village, putting up with two heavily-imbibed blokes chatting away. She deserved the Player of the Match award, as I remembered how lucky I was to have made such good friends to enjoy my football with.
Sunday Bloody (Brilliant) Sunday
While I have no problem keeping myself entertained and going to a match alone, it is generally more enjoyable being in the company of others. It provides conversation and opinion, often pointing out things you miss in your own private cocoon.
Indeed, it was while I was chatting to Peter, the amiable owner of Hong Kong Garden, my pre-match venue of choice, that he happened to mention expats he knew who never went anywhere and spent their lives in a room working online.
John, my friend and fellow Sisaket fan, was away for the foreseeable future. I badly missed meeting him and going to games together. In the meantime, I attended matches with friends visiting the area who seemed to enjoy the experience of what is a special part of the world to me, as well as what matchday brought.
Indeed, it was friends visiting the previous week that would lead to me being introduced to a new ally. The write-up of that day, for those who read my scribblings, can be enjoyed here.
Anyway, it was in Leo’s after the match that we came across Per, a passionate Arsenal supporter from Tromsø in Norway who lived in Sisaket. If that makes any sense. My only connection to his home city is remembering Chelsea playing there on a snow-covered pitch on TV. It was a conversation ice-breaker, so to speak, especially as Per spoke good English, like most of his countrymen.
We became friends on Facebook, and I sent him a message leading up to the match. The amazing thing was that although Per loved football, he had no idea of any clubs or leagues in Thailand, which says everything about the potency of local marketing.
The Excitement of Discovering Football in Sisaket
He seemed astonished and equally delighted when I told him I went to most home games. Even more so when he discovered that the city had a second stadium where Rasisalai United play in the third tier.
He messaged me just as I alighted the train from Kathararom and headed for my food and beer. We later met outside the Sri Nakhon Lamduan Stadium ahead of schedule, with him as keen as mustard.
We wandered around to the far side, where I knew there would be a better atmosphere and settled down to beers on a cold and windy night, served by the usual friendly ladies on the stall, as he tried to take it all in.
He told me of his football experiences through work, going to games in London, the expensive nature of it, and the wonderful people he had met along the way. It was great to meet someone else who was clearly enjoying the whole experience, even at an early stage.
Wonderful Memories
I often lament how I would love to find the same buzz once more as my initial taxi ride from Don Muang Airport in 2004, and seeing the incredible sights which grabbed my heartstrings, followed by a night downtown. Also, my first taste of Thai football. If someone could bottle those emotions, then surely, they’d be a millionaire. Seeing someone else getting similar enjoyment is not a bad second best.
We headed upstairs to watch. His first comment was on the state of the pitch, saying he thought it resembled The Dell, from Southampton’s old home. He knew his stuff, quickly sussing out that the ref could be easily manipulated. The hosts, pushing towards the playoff places, went ahead through Caique Ribeiro in the early exchanges.
Fellow Brazilian Danilo then missed a chance that I would have been upset to fluff. Per thought it was wonderful that this previously unknown competition had Brazilians playing in it. Danilo was impressive every week with his strength and game management.
If only the big fella could finish with the same aplomb that he is said to when polishing off meals in certain local establishments. But then again, we wouldn’t be watching him ply his trade in the second tier of Thai football if he were highly competent in front of goal.
Nakhonsi had been on an awful run of form. Despite this, they played with a surprising amount of confidence, with some clever flicks and smart passing movements. They brought around twenty fans with them, showing some real dedication to travelling nineteen hours by road.
My friend was bang on the money when he said it was not fair to give them the worst view in the entire ground. He couldn’t believe it when I explained that they were also charged more for the privilege.
The hosts were made to pay for missing their opportunity when Bianor Neto headed home from a narrow angle from a corner with Sisaket goalie Adisak flapping like a loosely fitted letterbox as usual.
It was soon after that that referee Piyapong Thonkhain and his nearside official got in on the act, or at least they should have done. Wongsakorn was fouled by a visiting defender, with the offence clearly inside the box. The official gave a free kick outside the area. His assistant offered no help.
Who'd Be a Referee?
It was as well that the bloke behind me in the stand from the previous week was missing. He’d have required hospital treatment. Astonishing stuff, but highly entertaining for those without too much skin in the game.
However, it was the ref who in the end decided the game in the second half when he gave Sisaket a penalty for an offence that seemed to be making up for his previous error of judgement. The crowd certainly played their part in helping him make up his mind. They can be a feisty bunch once they’ve had a beer or two. Danilo slotted home the resulting spot kick with eleven minutes remaining on the clock. Lamduan saw the game out for another three points with another unconvincing performance.
We headed back to where I was due to be picked up, and where Per had parked his motorbike. By the open gap below the away section, a farang was applauding the Nakhonsi side, who’d gone to acknowledge the magnificent support that they had received. We joined him.
Yet Another Farang
I commended him on his loyalty, making such a journey only for him to reveal he was a Sisaket fan who lived an hour north of the city. Si was originally from South Wales but had become a Hull City fan, the bigger club I follow in England, after he'd studied at the university there.
It seemed inconceivable that our paths hadn’t previously crossed. He told us where he sat for home games, so hopefully, that would lead to another friendship being created by attending Thai football.
A Near Perfect Day
What a splendid day. I was so overcome with emotion that my wife had to call my driver after I left my phone in the back of his car after dropping me off. I then recalled most of the day to her. Often repeating myself. What a lucky lady.
For reasons of which I have no idea, she went to bed and didn’t want to watch the Brighton v Crystal Palace game with me, so I made the best of the company of the remaining whisky and snacks before bed. It could well have been the last live game that I attended in 2024. I'd certainly done it justice.