Panyee FC

Panyee FC is a club like many others in Thailand that plays matches between themselves and has a strong community ethos. The big difference at Panyee is that the ground is on a small island built over the sea with a small pitch floating on the water.

Ko Panyee is an island formed and built on stilts by immigrant Javanese fishermen on the sea in Phang Nga province in southern Thailand. The island has an active life, with fishing still playing a huge part, along with tourism as thousands head there by boat to see what it’s all about.

Naturally enough, the youngsters of the island wanted activities. Because there wasn’t enough room on the island for a football pitch, it was built on a floating platform on the ocean. The vista is dominated by a stunning huge vertical limestone cliff shadowing the population of around 1,600 people living mainly in shacks.

Those wanting to play football previously would wait for just a couple of months when the tide was low enough. The fishermen decided to build a ground for the youth to play on using fish cages that were covered by wooden planks. However, the nails and planks were prone to movement and despite maintenance were not ideal.

Floating pontoons, rubber and reinforced plastic form the current pitch which has had more than one location. It is now beyond the local school and mosque on the western side of the island.

Tournaments are held for youngsters between the ages of 7 and 18, with Panyee FC often competing in national competitions and becoming one of the best youth sides in the south of Thailand.

My visit

Thursday 9th January 2025

The tour of Thailand I was on with my wife after leaving her cousin and his family back in Hat Yai had been amazing. Taew for some reason wanted to visit Phang Nga, which I associated with the coast and seaside resorts.

However, there was much more to the province that she had in her mind and gradually returned to my memory bank once she showed me images of Ko Panyee once again. So, with that in mind, we booked two nights in Phang Nga town.

The initial plan was to find somewhere offering a tour including the island, at least that’s what I thought was the best option having done an island-hopping tour of Phi Phi the day before. But my good lady wasn’t keen. Not that there was to be a tour operator to be found anywhere anyway.

She quizzed the staff at the restaurant where we dined on Wednesday evening and they seemed to think that we could catch a bus to the pier where the boat would take us to Ko Panyee, but they weren’t sure.

The receptionist at the TP Place Hotel was more helpful, telling Taew that she could get us a songthaew to take us to the pier. So, that’s what we did. The gent arrived and apologised that his vehicle was on another job, but he’d take us in his car.

The pair of Thais nattered away in good nature with my good lady taking on information from the knowledgeable local. He dropped us off and after a short wait, we were ushered onto a boat where a western tourist was already sitting.

By this point, I had been on my phone and the penny had dropped that I indeed did remember the island from previous chats, and a friend sending me images and an article about the astonishing floating football pitch. Now I was even happier.

It transpired he had paid for a private tour, but we were going to be dropped off on the way. The views in Phang Nga Bay were breathtaking, not least the approach to the island. Once on the jetty and in the village on stilts, we decided to explore.

Over 3,000 tourists flock to the island every day, so naturally enough there are lots of souvenir shops and places to eat and drink. At the end of each narrow path, all under shelter, another incredible view appeared and more photo opportunities.

The locals have seen it all before, but for the first timer, it was truly astonishing. Signs led us to where the football pitch presumably was anchored previously. Eventually, we caught sight of it when visiting the school, before following the path past the mosque.

Perhaps some funding had been acquired, as it was in great condition with high netting all around it. Loose shots would still mean the offender having to swim to fetch the ball back. It was a strange sensation, and I could imagine tricky at first getting used to playing on something constantly moving, be it ever so gently on this occasion.

Judging by the murals that we saw, there is no shortage of love for football, with like in a lot of Thailand, Liverpool being the club most cheer for. Oh, to come across street art depicting a local side occasionally.

Our wonderful visit was rounded off by eating fresh crab in a small restaurant where chatty old girls made sure everything was OK while sorting us a boat service back to the pier to meet up with our driver who Taew phoned. It was that sort of day and place. The people were wonderful.

Songkhla

 

Songkhla FC is a professional football club representing the city of the same name in the southern Thai province of Hat Yai. Their history can be traced back to 1999, when they played in the Thailand Provincial League which was for clubs outside of Bangkok who played in the Thai Premier League.

Tinsulanonda Stadium was used for home matches, continuing with little success and being suspended for the 2005 season. Third place on their comeback in Provincial League 2 in 2006 was backed up by finishing runners-up in the Provincial League 1 in 2007. 

Songkhla were promoted to Thailand League Division Two in which they ended second in 2008, a season of two spent playing at Chiranakhon Stadium in Hat Yai. Witthawat Iamram ended the top scorer in the second tier Division One in 2009 as the side consolidated their position.

Worawet Chanuthai and then Chayene Santos bagged the goals as the club finished in fifth and then fourth position as a season was spent at Na Thawi District Stadium before a return to Tinsulanonda Stadium which saw the club attract huge attendances. However, things changed after just avoiding relegation in 2012.

Back in 2009, Buriram FC had been formed by Karuna Chidchob. They won promotion from Division Two Northeast in 2010 and then lifted the Division One title in 2011. The club was bought by the husband of the president, Newin Chidchob who had already bought out PEA and moved them from Ayutthaya to become PEA Buriram and then Buriram United.

He decided that the rights of Buriram FC should be sold to Songkhla FC to have a southern team at the top level of Thai football and conveniently have two Buriram controlled clubs there at the same time. The relocated club was named Wuachon United FC in 2012 before the original Songkhla FC was dissolved to join the new club and become Songkhla United.

The initial season saw Wuachon attract a crowd of 30,102 for the top-flight clash with Muangthong United as Jadet Meelarp led the team from the bench. Goals from Kirati Keawsombat in 2012 and then Manop Sornkaew in 2013 kept Songkhla United safe.

Franz Schwarzwälder was appointed as coach in July 2013 lasting just a few months, before they went down a level at the end of the 2014 season after Kayne Vincent had put away the chances. The side was managed throughout the season by Phayong Khunnaen and then Jason Withe. 

Somchai Makmool took over team affairs in 2015 as Rufino Sánchez top scored with the team ending in midtable. Willen Mota was a scoring sensation in 2016 for the side coached by Nopporn Eksatra who also reached the semifinals of the League Cup, going out on aggregate to Buriram United.

The following season proved to be United’s last. Giorgi Tsimakuridze scored the goals as the team ended up in a relegation place for Watchara Tochanakan’s team while playing at Na Thawi District Stadium. Not that it mattered because the club failed the criteria for a license and was banned for two seasons.

The reincarnation of Songkhla FC was born in 2018, starting initially in the Thailand Amateur League, playing at Prince of Songkhla University Stadium, finishing third and then as champions twelve months later of the southern zone to win promotion to Thai League 3 South for 2020-21.

The goals of Abdussalam Saman took the Samila Mermaids to the title back at Tinsulanonda Stadium under the stewardship of Akaporn Chalitaporn. The Champions National League playoffs ended in failure before Daiki Higuchi was given the role of head coach.

2021-22 again saw a third-place finish with Natan Oliveira putting away the chances, before the regional title lifted in 2022-23 as Jardel topped the scoring charts for the side led by Sarawut Treephan who finished third in their playoff group.

2023-24 saw a third Thai League 3 South title being delivered, this time under returning Japanese coach Higuchi thanks in part to the efforts of Nigerian forward, Ekene Victor Azike. Once again, the playoffs ended in disappointment.

My visit

Songkhla 1 Kasem Bundit University 0 (Sunday 5th January 2025) Thai League 3 Cup Round of 16 (att: 345) 

The tour of Thailand that I was on provided immense fun travelling with my wife Taew along with her cousin Q and his family. I’d visited football stadiums in cities that I had never visited before and may not have the opportunity to again. However, this fixture made me extremely happy when it was revealed.

Not that I was the biggest fan of the competition which drew some derisory attendances. I mean, who would expect a team from Bangkok to travel to Songkhla, a journey going on for fourteen hours for a third-tier cup game on a Sunday night? It seemed second nature to organise such games in Thailand.

Despite that, Tinsulanonda Stadium was very high on my bucket list, so I agreed that I would be happy to do anything the rest of our group wanted if I was released for football on Sunday lunchtime. With everything in place, I was deposited at Central in Hat Yai to use the bank and grab some food before walking to the bus terminal.

The driver of our minivan would certainly not be getting a gig at the Comedy Store anytime soon. He displayed a Phatthalung FC scarf above him and drove like the clappers. I wasn’t too upset to get out and start my mini tour of Songkhla's old town, arriving far too early if truth be told. 

I visited an art gallery and wandered through the many narrow lanes seeing some lovely old architecture and street art with many others doing the same thing. If it was a coffee shop someone wanted, they were in the right city, with lots of them, many extremely trendy offering refreshments.

The old rice mill by the lake was being put forward as a World Heritage site, while a small bus took tourists around. I visited the Songkhla National Museum and the city wall, with every local I met being extremely friendly and helpful, something I’d experienced a few days earlier when we visited other local places. 

With time to kill, I thought I would head to the stadium and take photos inside in case access was restricted when spectators arrived for the match. The security guard waved me in as I went into the various stands, with the preparations beginning and the home side arrived by coach.

On my way, I walked along Si Suda Alley, which had several bars which would open later as well as Irish Buzz Stop Restaurant and Bar which was already serving a couple of customers. I decided to return there and maybe have a meal. I regretted it instantly. 

One Thai lady was trying to serve a large group of English fellas, maybe in their late twenties or a bit older. They were not causing any problem, but they were loud, obviously enjoying themselves and were ordering food and lots of drinks. It was clear that I would have waited a long time.

After looking at the menu, in which nothing particularly jumped out at me, I decided I’d leave them to their fun and have a drink somewhere a bit quieter. It was unbelievable the names I was called because I hadn’t decided to introduce myself and make friends. It saddened me, but these things happen.

The irony of having a trouble-free tour, including visiting places threatened by terrorism, but then having issues with English was not lost on me. I had a couple of cold beers watching the world go by and trying to cheer myself up at The Corner Bier before heading back to the stadium, again rather early.

Refreshments were confined to a stall once inside the stadium complex before entering the arena. There was no beer for sale. The souvenir stand consisted of a small rack and table which also sold match tickets. It was all extremely low-key and a bit disappointing.

 

I chose a VIP seat for 120 Baht, again feeling disappointed when it turned out to be downstairs in the main stand rather than the upper tier. The stadium PA played very melodic local acoustic tunes as the teams warmed up before they returned for the match.

It had to be asked if it was wise to arrange a 6pm kick-off when Thailand were playing Vietnam in the second leg of the ASEAN Cup final on live TV at 8pm. Surely an earlier start at Songkhla would have attracted more fans who could then get home to watch the national side.

The game was closely fought in the first half. Thomas Chinonso, the Nigerian Kasem Bundit striker was pacy and caused the host defence some problems, breaking away and seeing his shot go narrowly over the bar while Songkhla seemed more methodical but slower in their build-up.

I was surprised to see Jhonatan Bernardo in the lineup for the home side who led their league table. I had watched him for Udon United at the start of the season and it’s fair to say that I was unimpressed. The impression was confirmed after his showing in this match. He was dreadful and must have had a good agent. 

Ridwan Ruangchuai was one of the midfielders who impressed me for Songkhla, but he was lucky to remain on the pitch in my eyes after he was the last man bringing down Chinonso on the edge of the box when through, not attempting to play the ball as half-time neared.

Referee Pissanusak Sriyai decided the challenge only merited a yellow card. The striker received lengthy treatment in what would be the game changing moment. Abdulhafis Nibu, Thiraphong Yangdi, and Anwa A-Leemama also impressed me for the home team. 

It was the latter who was denied just before the interval through a flying save from Chanon Aunjaidee in the student’s net. At the break, I decided to change position and ensure that I could get away easily from an exit to meet my family. The view was far better high up on the open side.

Chinonso wasn’t the same after his injury, hobbling off five minutes into the second half, his assailant staying on having done his job. Ten minutes later the only goal of the game arrived from Anwa and that was pretty much game over. The hosts came close to doubling their lead a couple of times with the threat of KBU extinguished.

My Roving Report for A Thai Football Podcast

 

Should the game have gone into extra time, it would have done so without me in attendance. As the final whistle sounded, I was on my way to dinner at Son Kaew Seafood Restaurant. A pleasant meal was enjoyed before Q gave us a nighttime tour of the old town.

We wanted to be back in Hat Yai for a night of sleep, as the following day would see Taew head off and make our way without our hosts, catching the bus to Krabi to enjoy many further adventures. It was only then she revealed that her cousin’s wife was worried about me going to football alone. If only she knew.

A Funny Kind of Love. Port FC and I

A Funny Kind of Love. Port FC and I

Port 1 Khon Kaen United 2

Thai League 1

Wednesday 14th January 2025

Attendance: 2,317

Thai football has been very special to me from the moment I first discovered that there was a league set up in the Land of Smiles on one of my early visits. Back then my time spent in Thailand was primarily for my involvement in partaking and assisting in six-a-side cricket competitions meaning my knowledge of football came via the internet.

Information was scarce, with Wikipedia being the main outlet before I later discovered Facebook and Twitter pages and I came across the excellent “It’s A Habitthat Sticks” an English blog site concentrating primarily on Chonburi FC, who lest we forget was a huge name in Thai football in the late noughties. 

I managed to buy some team shirts at the shops near the National Stadium in 2007 which included Police United and Port FC among others. My first chance of going to a game came in 2010 after the cricket was over in Phuket but an Icelandic volcano put pay to any scheduled return back to Blighty.

I went to Army United v Bangkok United and then Customs Suvarnabhumi v Thai Honda on consecutive days, which I thoroughly enjoyed as an introduction without feeling too much passion towards any of the sides involved. Before my return home, I took the MRT to Khlong Toei and walked the ten minutes or so to the PAT Stadium which was being upgraded to its modern form.

No More Madam Pang anymore. At least officially

There was something about it there and then that I loved. I knew that Port had a reputation, with their fans involved in fighting with those of rivals Muangthong United at Suphachalasai Stadium a few months previously which saw the Kor Royal Cup being awarded to MTU. I would have to wait for my first game at the PAT.

The opportunity finally arose in April 2013 when after attending a Regional League game between Globlex against Samut Sakon I headed in a taxi down Ramkhamhaeng Road with my driver eventually deducing where I wanted to go. Singhtarua, as Port were called at the time, lost 2-1 to BB-CU in the second tier. It was the first night under the new floodlights which attracted a good-sized crowd.

A drink with a pal in Bangkok's best beer garden

The ground had previously been somewhat of a shambles with repeated floodlight failures, Port having to move out, and the club even having to reform. Probably because of what I’d gone through with Scarborough FC going bust and then helping with the new Scarborough Athletic, I felt quite at home, even if I did giggle when a fan in front of me had “Hooligan” emblazed on his shirt rather than a player’s name.

My regular twice yearly trips sometimes came up lucky for Port fixtures. I enjoyed everything about the PAT experience and the occasional away games. The feistiness and passion of the fans while being virtually on top of the pitch gave it something that stood out above other Thai venues. I even streamed some games back in the UK.

Never a shortage of food or drink at the PAT

Things changed, possibly forever at Port, when Nualphan Lamsam, otherwise known as Madam Pang, took over the club. It’s fair to say that she is not camera shy and is not to everyone’s tastes.

The atmosphere seemed to change somewhat. Beer was no longer allowed in the stands, and she took great delight in being front and back of every match advertisement and sitting on the bench next to the coaches, who were put in awkward positions where if they had told her not to, would have led to her losing face and the coach being made redundant. That’s how Thailand works. 

Only the Lonely approaching kick-off

Anyway, by December 2021 I had moved to Thailand full-time. Tickets for the start of the second leg during Covid restrictions were purchased as my mate Steve joined me. I went a lot that season as results nose-dived. The same as many previous and future seasons to come.

Undoubtedly, I also changed when I moved home. Football results were far less important to me than before. Sure, I’d sometimes get involved and have a shout at my many games, more often as a neutral and visiting new places, but if a team like Port who I wanted to win didn’t I wasn’t that bothered once I walked outside the gates.

I think I can best put this down to living in a beautiful place and finding a woman of my dreams whom I have married while fully integrating into Thai life with her family and friends. I still meet up occasionally with fellow farangs but generally, it’s on a matchday somewhere. At Port, I have been lucky to meet some loyal locals who are passionate in the extreme.

At first, they couldn’t work me out but having been introduced to my friends going to games with me, whom they have treated superbly, they understand that football is my love rather than one club, even if they think I’m bonkers ever considering going to Muangthong in the home end. 

So, back from an amazing three-week tour around Thailand with my good lady and her relatives, the fixtures fell kindly for me to go to my third home game of the 2024-25 season. Port had lost the previous Sunday away to Chiang Rai United, who like tonight’s visitors, Khon Kaen United (never just Khon Kaen) were in the drop zone. Surely it would end in a home win.

I had taken the quick route from Minburi consisting of Songthaew, a rickety old smoke-belching bus, a canal boat with similar attributes and then the MRT underground before a ten-minute walk to the stadium. While I have a relaxed attitude about games and their outcome and I will visit anywhere for my football fix, something struck me on this occasion.

In the same way, I always got a buzz walking from St John’s Wood tube to Lord’s or heading down North Marine Road for a day of cricket at Scarborough, the PAT Stadium approach gave me the same warm feeling inside. It had definitely done something to me. It is a scruffy place and a dream job of any health and safety official on secondment from the UK. It has no corporate facilities but has noise, passion and raucousness. It's a perfect football stadium, at least to me.

There was certainly no need to seek out a tout or buy online for this match with the 6pm midweek slot being a contributory factor in a poor turnout. There is always somewhere to sit or wander around once through the main gates from the road. A huge variety of street food is available, in what I describe as Bangkok’s best beer garden when there is a game on and the atmosphere builds.

Two gents who always improve my PAT experience

Yao (apologies if misspelt) my Thai pal who plays great tunes via Bluetooth speaker in the fans park outside was unusually missing. I located his mates and had a couple of beers before heading inside to find my friend concentrating on the team doing their warmups along with his wife Tuk. Yoa formerly had trials with the club as a youngster and was brought up over the road from the ground. He is well educated from time spent studying at university in England and now helps run the family business.

His knowledge, helpfulness, and generally great company to be around along with the rest of the gang who position themselves in the corner behind the goal nearest the main stand. Port attracts a wide range of fans from different backgrounds and nations. I find the company of the locals the most comfortable as I get the chance to practice speaking Thai and learn from them. And they have genuine passion. It’s their club. Us expats are guests. One of those in the corner never misses a game home or away, turning up with large yellow and red cards which he shows to the ref to offer advice. I love it.

Time for half-time beers

One expat used this particular match to film for his YouTube channel. It seems like there are many trying to make money in this way, and fair play to them. I’m not personally a fan of the click-baiting that attracts views but if it raises awareness in Thai football then it’s got to be good. The gent filming would get a pretty raw deal, though those in the low crowd did their best to get behind their team.

The visitors went 1-0 ahead through Ryu Seung-woo midway through the first half. Port misfiring forward Lonsana Doumbouya had somehow headed a delicious cross from the exquisite left foot of Kevin Deeromram over the bar before that. He made amends by nodding him stylishly within three minutes of his side going behind. The hosts were missing opportunities galore, with away goalie Chirawat Wangthaphan making one superb save.

Yoa had brought the beers by this point. When Madam Pang took on the role of President of the Thai FA, she handed control of the club to a relative, though not many were fooled that she had relinquished her power. She was often seen in her apartment behind where we stand and even seen at games in her Port colours, which isn’t a particularly good look for someone who should be maintaining neutrality.

Once the reins had been handed over, beer was allowed back inside the stands. Muangthong fans were allowed back in the stadium for the derby after a hiatus of nine years, while improvements were made which included an excellent playlist before games. Now there was no danger of the rare chance of bad behaviour damaging Pang’s election, so it was back to more relaxed times. The wall of portraits of her on the rear wall of a stand leaves nobody in any doubt about whom to thank. 

We went outside at the break where Yoa’s mate had a stall which provided our beers and also sold some superb spicy sausage. The chat and fun were such that we missed the start of the second half which included what would prove to be the winning goal for Khon Kaen United.

Port continued to huff and puff but the lacklustre performance got no more than it deserved. The visitors did what should be expected of any team fighting relegation as they fought and scrapped and used every trick in the book. If only the home side showed the same passion. The victors showed just how ordinary they were when a few days later they lost 9-0 away to Buriram United.

It's A Family Affair, at Port

Enough was enough for the Port hierarchy. Head coach Rangsan Viwatchaichok had been talked out of resigning earlier in the season. This time he was shown the door before the night was done. It was typical Port and summed up their previous seasons. A good start with big signings before falling apart. It's a good job there are so many poor teams in the division.

But here lies the issue. Port, BG Pathum United, and Bangkok United are relatively unchallenged by the chasing pack, yet they know they have no chance of chasing down Buriram United. Sacking a coach may be good for a power trip and obviously needs to be done occasionally, not least to indicate to the fans that the owners understand their disappointment, but will it really make a huge difference? The only way is to be honest with fans, create a project over several years, employ the right coach and don't interfere and be patient. All traits missing from Thai club owners.

We were oblivious to the news of the sacking, getting stuck into more Leo’s and enjoying the evening. There was another home game to come the following week against Ratchaburi. I was pretty sure that I’d be there, but it looked like Yoa was double-booked. I'd find a way to have fun regardless though I'd miss him.

Tuk kindly took pity on this oversized farang and kindly dropped me at the end of my village as she put up with two heavily imbibed blokes not always understanding each other through the language barrier discussing life and football. She deserved the Player of the Match award.

Queen Sirikit's 60th Anniversary Stadium (Bangkok)

Queen Sirikit's 60th Anniversary Stadium, also sometimes referred to as Khlong 6 Stadium, or Chaloem Phra Kiat Stadium, is part of the Department of Physical Education complex in Thanyaburi, Pathum Thani province, just north of the capital.

It was opened in 1992 to mark the birthday of Queen Sirikit, with it going on to predominantly stage football matches over the years as well as athletics events. Bangkok Glass, later to become BG Pathum United took over Krung Thep Bank FC in 2009 and played their home games at the venue. 

A year later they moved to their new stadium, nine km towards Rangsit, where Leo Stadium, as was known at the time, was inaugurated. Rangsit United spent the 2019 season at the stadium before they changed their name to Inter Bangkok and moved to the 72nd Anniversary Stadium in Minburi

The iCon RSU, won promotion to Thai League 3 for the 2023-24 season, announcing ticket prices and that fixtures would be played at the Queen Sirikit. However, a refurbishment coincided with the start of the season, meaning they headed elsewhere never to return and were relegated at the end of the season.

My visit

Sunday 19th January 2025

The previous day my wife Taew and I headed to Pattaya to catch up with friends and enjoy an extremely sociable few hours. Waking after a solid sleep, we quickly got to the bus station for services returning to Suvarnabhumi. The packed bus had made good time, which was ideal as neither of us was in top form. 

On arrival back in the capital I was dropped off on the way back to Minburi so I could catch a train and bus to the T3 Central clash between AUU Inter Bangkok and Chamchuri United. A kind student helped when the bus conductor couldn’t understand which stop I required before I sat back and enjoyed the ride.

Thanyaburi is a long way from central Bangkok as I soon remembered. We continued past BG Stadium and under the motorway to Ayutthaya and the city before I bailed out on the main road rather than remaining on to the terminus at RMUTT University. It turned out to be an inspired choice, more by luck than judgment. 

While Google Maps is a great tool, it is wholly inept at showing boundaries to properties or complexes. Presuming all the land with various sports fields belonged to the university was inaccurate as I quickly discovered. Everything on the left of the approach road to the educational establishment belonged to the Department of Physical Education.

And what a site it was. Once through the gates, I saw two hockey pitches, one with a majestic main stand, two athletic tracks, one with an artificial surface for football inside it, as well as the Institute for Sports Science, and a gym. A croquet tournament was being played on two lawns just south of the Queen Sirikit Stadium. 

The main arena had a magnificent main stand with smaller open spectator accommodation opposite. A large scoreboard stood at the far end, but without doubt, the standout feature was the four magnificent floodlight pylons, like relics from 1960s Eastern Europe.

Once I had taken my snaps I was in for an additional treat as I found an open-sided baseball park and then the national stadium, which I didn’t previously know existed. What a small stadium it was, and while needing some maintenance and loving care, surely somewhere to be visited to watch a game under the lights. 

Thailand Baseball Stadium

It was a bit of a trek back to the only open gate of the complex, and the security guard looked perplexed at the direction I had come from, but it had been well worth the detour.